Backpacking travel advice: East Africa - Kenya, Malawi, Tanzania and Zambia

East Africa

Some things you might want to know in the way of backpacking, budget travel advice, tips, info and summaries for: East Africa - Kenya, Malawi, Tanzania and Zambia (East enough? - Zimbabwe in Southern Africa section). You can also see West, North and Southern Africa in other sections.

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East Africa

» Kenya

Intro: The entry or exit point for most overland trips in Africa and a favourite package safari destination - in many ways Kenya is East Africa. Even though a look at the map may reveal that many of the more evocative place names associated with the region lie in neighbouring countries - there is no doubt that Kenya with its compact tourist circuit, cheaper than Tanzania safaris and fine facilities should not be over looked as they so often are (amidst concerns over crime). With 'back in time' trips to lake Turkana in the north, amazing beaches/islands on the east (inc. the wonderful Lamu islands) and fine national parks / lakes all over the country - it's worth spending some time. Ignore anybody who tells you Kenya is too touristy - you simply need a little courage and to make the effort. Off the beaten track (if you have time) Kenya is amazing and quite safe.
- Highlights: Samburu NP in the north is highly rated since there is a good chance of see the 'big three' away from the plains and the road trip from the south takes in a diverse range of landscapes from lowlands, beautiful white highlands and stunning Mount Kenya. Some prefer the heavily touristed Kenyan extension to Tanzania's Serengeti, the Maasai Mara - which are an amazing example of iconic African plains and Africa's best value safari. Best advice if you have the money is to visit a few national parks. Lamu is so relaxed it's almost falling over, a great add on even if you are going to Zanzibar. A trip to lake Turkana in the far north (as seen in 'The Constant Gardener') is worth the money and Lake Nakuru with it's millions of flamingos really makes a typical east African site.
- Lowlights: Nairobi, touristy package beach resorts, high rate of crime, poverty, clashing cultures, need for private transport when making national park trips and danger of mugging in the capital and some beach areas.
Visa strategy: Many nationalities need a visa, available for about US$50 at the airport or border - make sure you have USD or Euro (which is now accepted widely) cash.
Typical tourist trail: Three to seven day safari circuit taking in Maasai Mara, Lake Nakuru, Mount Kenya and Samburu, then on to the coast for a few days.

The Safari Circuit:
The most compelling reason to visit Kenya, is to take a safari (journey). However this is an expensive activity for the budget traveller (although cheaper than in Tanzania). Expect to pay at least US$85 per day for a safari if you hit a very good deal, however US$100+ is nearer the mark. It goes without saying that pushing the limits of how cheap you can get a trip for, will often compromise it's quality. This sort of price will be camping, which is fine (in fact it's great). If you want fixed accommodation them you better triple and more the per day price.
The reason for this cost being so high is that like in all parts of East Africa you pay for 1) fuel for a very long trip, 2) a guide plus a cook and 3) most importantly an average of about US$25 per 24 hours (more in most popular parks) for park admission. Understand that you will be expected to tip at the end of your trip and therefore will need to budget for 5-10 bucks extra a day. Competition is fierce and any guidebook will recommend some establish operators which with to haggle with. Perhaps the most sensible way to approach the situation is to make contact before you arrive, but if you can't don't worry. A trip is easily arranged in Nairobi and best deals can be secured when you team up with another group (normally trips work out cheapest when a couple has pre-booked from their home country at a premium and you turn up with flexibility and say 'I will go as well'). If you have some flexibility, there is no real reason to pre-book, since several companies offer daily departures and you would certainly be a fool to book via a company based in your home country that was listed top of the page when you did a Google search. As a final note, look at getting yourself in a Land Rover or Land Cruiser not a mini-bus and with a enough blankets for the cold Maasai Mara night's.	The most popular itineraries are out of Nairobi are for three to four day Maasai Mara only, and six to seven day trips to Maasai Mara and Samburu with an over night stop at Lake Nakuru and Mount Kenya. The latter is a highly recommended alternative to the Tanzania circuit with a great range of animals and landscapes. Note that unless just after the rains, Samburu is typical dry dense bush as found in Southern Africa. The huge Tsavo NP (most easily accessed from the coast) is also dry and dense, so is Amboseli where iconic Kilimanjaro views cannot be anywhere near guaranteed. See Tanzania safari info in the respected section for more tips and advice. Self drive safaris are not really an option in Kenya and are much more suited to Southern Africa, where a safari can be made much cheaper in rental cars and your own camping equipment, although don't expect to see sweeping plains, wilder beast migrations or huge numbers of predators as can be found in Kenya/Tanzania.

Climbing: With your own kit Mount Kenya can be climbed independently (just hire a local guide). Even with an organized trip, a climb works out cheaper than Kilimanjaro, but beware unlike Kilimanjaro, this is quite a technical mountain with most casual climbers not getting right to the jagged top.
Hot/cold, wet and dry: Normally quite hot as you would expect with the equator running right through the country. Beware both Nairobi and the Maasai Mara are at altitude and can get cold during night. Be sure to pack a good fleece and get a good sleeping bag from your tour company.
Costs: About US$20-30 per day, excluding the cost of any safari or tour you take.
Money: ATMs in big cities, travellers cheques can be difficult to cash (take original receipts), as you would expect green backed $$cash is easiest to use and carry, although least recommended due to crime risk associated with carrying cash.
Getting around: The roads are served by a chaotic array of Kenya's gift to the world - matatus (which have become a lot safer in the past few years with strict regulations bringing road traffic accident deaths down by 70% in 6 months!), they make short trips easy and having compulsory seat belts and maximum occupancy means adrenaline junkies will have to go somewhere else. Good buses run long and international routes. Trains are subject to tourist pricing and therefore the popular Nairobi to Mombassa route is over priced.
Dangers: It's difficult to overstate the risk of being mugged, pick pocketed or conned in Nairobi especially if your guard is not right up (i.e. you just arrived and did not take a taxi into town). The coast is also a major target, other than that you will get the normal sticky fingers around bus stations in other parts of the country, but with common sense and luck you are pretty safe.
What to buy: Typical curio
Guide book: Lonely Planet or Bradt
Media: Newsweek/Time plus English language newspapers available in big cities.
People vibe:
- Locals: Generally very nice, although on the coast they can be a good deal of hassle.
- Other travellers: Fine (not too many of them).
Tourist factor: 7/10
Accommodation: Good range to be found in most towns
- Average cost: Under US$10 for a basic room US$20 for a much nicer one. International standard tourist resorts found on the coastal beaches and in game parks will be well out of a backpackers price range.
- Hot water: In budget accommodation, hard to get on the coast. However, you might be surprised to have a hot shower in the middle of a game park, where even on cheap tours you are very well looked after.
Communications: Internet great in Nairobi and okay in most other developed parts, but can be slow.
Food: Excellent food on tours, good food in towns and great Indian food in larger cities.
- Vegetarians: Generally Fine
Hassle and annoyance factor: 7.5/10
- Women alone: Generally fine, keep a guard up.

Rating 7/10 - fall foul to Nairobi and this rating tumbles, but don't get too worried, myself and most others survive it just fine and with that said probably halved the chance of having a theft problem in Africa until reaching the major South African cities.

Miss at your peril: Kenya or Tanzania Safari and Islands - 'Highlight of Independent Travel'

» Malawi

Intro: Malawi lacks the high international profile enjoyed by many of the regions other countries, but it holds a reputation of almost legendary status among travellers. A reputation, that for many whom visit and want to do more than simply relax by the lake and/or don't have the time or equipment to trek is hard to substantiate. Yet in many respects Malawi could be seen as a perfect backpacking destination - it's cheap, compact, hassle-free and in most parts very beautiful. Known as the 'warm heart of Africa' (unfortunately since the end of dictatorship, a title that appears to be slipping), Malawi is best known for it's beautiful lake, bays and beaches. It's also one of the poorest countries in Africa which adds up to some very cheap travelling, however also translates to some more expensive prices (such as imported goods) than the countries GNP would indicate. On the whole Malawi is cheap, but you can end up feeling that those items which are incredibly low in price (crafts aside) are of equally low quality. In addition when staying in one of the many lake resorts, good quality accommodation (often foreign owned) and food soon adds up. In short visiting Malawi with high expectations will no doubt lead to disappointment. Public transport can be hellish and incredibly slow plus some areas of the country are really very difficult to get to, normally requiring hiking without any support facilities. Nonetheless, if you just want to unwind from Africa, learn to dive, spend a few days on a boat or simply hang out in some great accommodation lakeside then it would be hard to be disappointed.
- Highlights: The lake of course; snorkeling, learning to dive or simply chilling out in resorts like Nkhata Bay or Cape Maclear. Good and very cheap trekking in Mulanje, Nyika NP and Vwaza marsh reserve.
- Lowlights: Transportation, poverty, the traveller resort nature of places like Nkhata and Candy Bay.

Getting around: Transport is hard work and to summaries horribly, made up of five options. 1) Government buses, should technically work on a timetable, but never seem to show on time. They are very, very slow, but more spacious than the other four wheeled choice. 2) The other four wheeled choice are mini-buses which are the most expensive, but most practical. They leave when full (and I mean full) and travel quite fast. These buses really do get VERY crowded and things can get a little difficult with a big bag. With a big bag and recommended for general comfort is purchasing two spaces (this laughably equals one 'normal' seat) or try to get the front seats. 3) Since these buses leave so full they sometimes can't pick up passengers on the way, which makes hitchhiking the only option, but do expect to pay for your ride and only travel during daylight. 4) is the Ilala ferry which operates a sort of weekly erratic service up and down the lake. Favourite for getting to Cape Maclear and to islands. The ferry is again slow and gets a little boring after the second day. Comfort, security and serenity are also questionable on the first class deck. A first class cabin is okay, but hardly a bargain. Second class is only for the brave. 5) Lastly is walking, which is the only way to see some areas and get to some places, such as Livingstonia.

Dangers

Not too long ago, Malawi was widely regarded to be the safest travel destination in the region. This unfortunately can no longer be still said. That's not to say it should be compared to Nairobi or Jo'burg, it is just that travellers need to be alert to casual and armed theft (like anywhere else in Africa).

Crime seems to be a greater problem than in cities at popular lakeside resorts, notably Nkhata Bay and Cape Maclear. Stay alert no matter how relaxed you feel, make sure your pockets don't have valuables in whilst swimming and especially guard your possessions during a ride on the Ilala ferry.

Health

The biggest question for most travellers in Malawi is should I swim in the lake? The obvious answer is yes, it's warm, crystal clear and everyone else seems to be doing it. However in the back of most travellers minds is the fact that the lake like many others in Africa contains Bilharzia which is a debilitating disease cause by tiny worms that digest their way through human and animal skin. Normally infected travellers suffer fewer problems than the some 200 million people worldwide with the illness, since symptoms (fever and wheezy cough) encourage them to seek prompt treatment and they are exposed to fewer parasites. It's commonly stated that 75% of those diving off Cape Maclear for only one week acquired the disease - whether the statement is true or not, it's a serious risk.

Nonetheless, virtually everyone swims or dives in the lake and you'll be told that all you need to do is be tested upon returning home (most western doctors either don't know how to take the test or will think you might die when you mention Bilharzia) and/or just buy the simple treatment (this can be quite hard to obtain in the west especially if you don't go through a doctor). So what's the answer? Well since Bilharzia is a nasty illness, a little avoidance and commonsense is wise, along with not bathing at length in high-risk areas (those with reeds where the snails that the worms live on reside). Cape Maclear has many of these reeds, the northern part of the lake in Tanzania has less and you will be told that Nkhata bay (the most popular resort) has none and is Bilharzia free. This is admittedly a difficult issue and you are as equally stupid if you ignore the threat of infection as if you don't go in the lake at all.

Mosquitoes: The Lake Malawi shore's and Shire Valley are among the worst parts of Africa for Malaria, particularly in the wet season. Take care and cover up at night.

Visa strategy: A visa is required by all except holders of a Commonwealth, EU, USA and South African passport, and should be obtained in advance.
Typical tourist trail: From Tanzania to Nkhata Bay, boat or bus to Monkey Bay and then leaving the country either via Blantyre or Lilongwe
Costs: Malawi is a very cheap country and you could manage on US$10-20 per day. However, a day or two in Lilongwe and the many temptations at lakeside resorts make doubling this a more reasonable figure.
Money: Outside of Lilongwe and Blantyre there are no ATMs. Travellers cheques change in most major cities (although these are so small you would not even think they would have a bank). Banks seem to close at 1300. Green backs will always change, so will Rands. There's a change place in Nkhata Bay, but maybe not Monkey Bay.
What to buy: Crafts and curio are cheaper and possibly better quality here than anywhere else in Africa.
Guide book: Lonely Planet always popular. Bradt another option.
People vibe:
- Locals: Generally very warm, friendly and often so poor your heart strings are tugged.
- Other travellers: Standard EU, Oz and US travellers. Many peace corp. or volunteer workers and overland truckers in places such as Candy Bay.
Tourist factor: Within resorts you will find the highest concentration of travellers, outside Egypt, South Africa, Zanzibar and Vic Falls in Africa, but in no way too many. Very easy to get away from it all.
Accommodation: Outside of resorts rooms are extremely cheap, but very basic. Rooms in nice resort hostels are almost on par with South Africa, so seem expensive by Malawian standards, but dorms and cheaper options are always available.
Communications: Only really in Lilongwe and Blantyre.
Food: Very limited choice in many places apart from lake resorts where you can have pretty much what every you want.
- Vegetarians: Normally always able to find an option
- What not to try: Right up there as one of the biggest surprises whilst travelling was fried mice being sold through the window of a bus. Still it's meat and who are we to comment without trying!
Hassle and annoyance factor: 6/10
- Women alone: Not really a problem, but it's worth being on your guard
Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: Shake Shake, a kind of maze beer bought in cartons has to be tried, preferably before you (if into it) have a smoke. Malawian gold is probably some of the best pot in the world and notably strong. You'll be offered it at any of the resorts around lake Malawi at very low prices. It's normally safe to buy with commonsense (even in one of the world's poorest countries it's still illegal) and goes a long way to explain why many travellers rate Malawi so highly and spend so long in such a small country.

Rating 6.5/10

» Tanzania

Intro: Tanzania often comes out in reports from travellers as their favourite country in East Africa and sometimes Africa and it's easy to see why. In fact you could just reduce the country to a list of statistics: Africa's highest mountain, largest game reserve and three largest lakes.

Just some of the evocative names say it all: Zanzibar, Kilimanjaro, Serengeti, Lake Victoria and of course the Ngorongoro Crater - but these are not the all and even if they draw the visitors they (since these attractions are very popular with fly in visitors and quite expensive) are not reason most rate the country so highly. Tanzania really does embody the African tourist dream and being such a large country, it's the ability and ease to get off the beaten track and meet some beautiful people in some beautiful places that is as much, if not more of a highlight than any of the instantly recognisable names mentioned above.

Come on a two week trip or flash through and you will see (with some money at your disposal) some of the prime attractions Africa has to offer and go home content. Come on a three/four week trip, still visit some big attractions, but also put up with some basic accommodation/transport to get miles from it all (virtually anywhere south of the Dar - Mwanza railway line is miles from any beaten tourist track) and you will like most come to believe that far from being overrated, this is the most underrated country in the region.

Highlights: Many of Tanzania's highlights are heavily touristed and very expensive by regional standards to see, but nonetheless very impressive. Mentioned are most of the big draw cards in the introduction.

Also worth noting is just how beautiful and how good walking is in the south of the country, in particular Tukuyu and the Usambara mountains. Not mentioned above and highly rated are Lake Manyara NP a gem in the northern safari circuit plus Mount Meru, an underrated (some say better) and cheaper alternative than Kilimanjaro.

Lowlights: Tourist density and accompanying touts in Zanzibar, Moshi (Kilimanjaro) and Arusha (Northern safari circuit). Off the beaten track: roads, accommodation and English spoken all start to decline dramatically.

Organising a Northern Safari:

There must be over a hundred safari companies operating out of Arusha and as you would imagine competition is cut-throat. Of course you get several bad apples among lots of good operators. You would imagine it's budget travellers who get caught out the most by these 'bad apple' out-fits as it is they who try to drive prices down the most. At time of writing the cheapest rate per day was around US$120 and you can safely assume that if you get offered much lower than this, something's amiss. The situation is as it stands probably because there is a high number of budget tourists all looking for the same thing - the cheapest deal, which normally means the highest risk. Best advice is to give yourself a few days in Arusha, use your commonsense and have a few conversations around town. You can ask the tourist office about blacklisted outfits, but operators can always operate under another name. It is also worth noting that many touts are skilled manipulators, and often pressure you into a decision by making you feel you have a one-off deal. Arriving by bus you'll get met by many touts and although they are great to find you a room, it is well worth saying you have already been on safari. If there are only two of you try and team up with another pair or your tour will cost about 50% extra and if put into a group by an agency, then it will be the choice of the operator not yours. All the above said there are loads of great operators in town, of which most guidebooks have recommendations of a few (but these are normally a little bit more expensive than may be found elsewhere); Sunny Safaris and Roy Safaris are both great operators. Final note, as with anything, it always pays to ask for a discount, especially when things look slow. See Kenya safari info for more tips and advice. Note that high costs reflect park entry fees which the government keeps on increasing so by the time you read this the price might likely be higher.

Understand that a good part of your first and last days on safari will be spent on the road, with distances great and roads poor. For this reason, longer safaris seem better value as durations are normally for three to six days. Five or six days would take in Ngorongoro, Serengeti, Manyara and Tarangire while a typical three days takes in all these reserves apart from the Serengeti. A five day safari, would drop either Serengeti or Tarangire. To visit all four reserves you really need six if not seven+ days.

Visa strategy: It seems visas are not required by most Commonwealth and Scandinavian countries, but many EU countries, British and Americans will have to buy a visa in advance or most popular entry points - cost around 100USD. You normally get 30 days, but this is easily renewed. Although seemingly constantly in flux, at present, visa are for 3 months max, and renewing can be tricky [some say impossible without bribes]. If you are not entering the country at Dar-es-Salaam International Airport, Kilimanjaro International Airport, Zanzibar International Airport or the Namanga boarder crossing between Tanzania and Kenya - then check careful you can get a visa or better still pick it up in advance within the region or at home.
Dangers: Muggings are really only a danger after dark in Dar-es-Salaam and Bagamoyo (try not to arrive after dark), but petty crime and scams seem to follow tourist to high concentration areas e.g. Zanzibar. Many travellers seem to let their guard down perhaps feeling safe with so many tourists around in popular areas. Overall crime in Tanzania is not a major problem and it is normally only those who feel it is no problem at all, that fall foul to it.
Hot/cold, wet and dry: It goes without saying that if you plan to climb a mountain you will need warm clothing, that you will have very little use for elsewhere
Guide book: Bradt or Footprint. Bradt's Africa backpacker manual up to it's normally high standard

Getting Around

Due to recent elections, the current government is spending a good deal of money on roads. The Dar-es-Salaam - Morogoro road has improved a greatly over the past few years, and they are extending it down to Mikumi. The Dar-es-Salaam - Arusha road shows signs of imminent construction, but that could mean anything - but still absolutely nothing is being done. The road is getting thinner and thinner which makes for some terrifying travels.

A Japanese NGO has built 'the nicest road in Tanzania', which replaces the gravel/old road to Ngorogoro crater. Good surfaced roads and quick buses connect Dar-es-Salaam to Arusha, Moshi, Tanga, Morogoro and Dodoma. The road from Dar-es-Salaam to Mbeya is okayish, but most other roads are quite bad (if improving), but all roads are normally always serviced by buses. However, as with elsewhere in Africa the concept of a full vehicle simply isn't recognised!

Buses: Care should be taken in choosing a reputable bus company. Many buses are ancient, and go way too fast. Royal coach is the best for Dar-es-Salaam - Arusha (new company, new buses, 80kph all the way), or if your in a hurry, 'Dar-es-Salaam express' (they've recently purchased a fleet of new buses and run many each day). Scandinavia coach line is a good bet for all over Tanzania. Busing way out west: some buses out on the west side of the country have been held up recently. People blame the Rwandan refugee camp left overs, and Congolese. Extra care should be taken out by lake Tanganyika.

Trains: There are two train companies in Tanzania, TAZARA, and the Tanzania Railway Corp. TAZARA is nicer, and very safe, but the trains only go from Dar-es-Salaam south, to Mbeya, then into Zambia, to a place called 'Komperi mposhi' (sp), about 2 - 3 hours from Lusaka. Visas are available on the train. Tanzania railroads trains go west. Muggings on trains are not unknown, even when sticking close to locals. Travellers should be warned to bring a chain lock to tie their baggage in the cabins, and to keep the window locked (with Tanzania railroad, they provide you with a wooden wedge for this), especially when going through Morogoro, and out by the lake. These trains are certainly not known for punctuality, and should not be relied on if time is critical. First class is comfortable (although different sexes maybe split (book with other travellers to share the carriage)).

Climbing

Kilimanjaro and others: Kilimanjaro is one of the most famous symbols of Africa and the highest mountain on the planet able to be climbed with no mountaineering skills (basically an up-hill slog taking about 4-5 days with no 'technical' climbing). The challenge and iconic status Kilimanjaro presents is lost on only a few and even fewer resist it's lure and end up going for the climb. Of which certainly a proportion regret - since Kilimanjaro is in reality not just a walk and although there is nothing technical about the ascent, it is a expensive, very hard and arduous climb even for those who are fit and experienced. On completion many less travellers regret the overall experience (but few would say they would repeat it), however the reality is not everyone even makes it to the top.

The most daunting factor for many is not the energy needed for the climb, but the cost of the whole thing, starting at about US$650-750 and normally ending up at a lot more and then you must plus say US$30-50 in tips. (note this price inc. new park fees so if you see cheaper elsewhere on the net they likely don't). The reality of the matter is that government parks fees increased dramatically in the last few years. These fees are priced per day and night in the park so depending on how long you take varies the price, but at something like US$60 per day and US$40 per night plus rescue insurance most end up paying at least US$5-600 in fees alone. This is terrible value and really doesn't offer good value considering all the amazing thing to do on the continent. You could find guys who will take you for about a hundred bucks less than most quoted price, but Kilimanjaro is not to be taken likely and the risks of doing so are considerable. If you just can't afford it, don't lose too much sleep or head north and climb the far prettier mount Kenya. The mountain is both cold and the sun harsh. In addition at certain times of the year it can be wet. Most of the equipment you need will be supplied or can be hired in Moshi, although it is advisable to bring a few of the essential items yourself to ensure good quality.

Far less popular is Mount Meru (the fifth highest mountain in Africa) and rated by many to be a much better option than Kilimanjaro. It's a shorter (2-3 days), much cheaper, less tramped and certainly prettier climb (Kilimanjaro is quite ugly in places).

Getting to Zanzibar

There are several ferries that ply between Dar-es-Salaam and Zanzibar, these seem to take turns each going once a day (so normally three trips daily - no real need to book). All these ferries charge around US$35 - 50 for tourists and about a fifth of that to locals. This is blatant tourist pricing and price rigging, but there is nothing you can do about it. Ferries are okay, but can be rough and night trips are best avoided, but a little cheaper. However, another option is to fly, with travel agencies (the great Safari hotel in Dar-es-Salaam will put you in touch with Kangaroo travel behind a popular restaurant (Chefs Pride) which offers flights (15 mins) including transportation at both ends for not too much more than a ferry ticket.

There are numerous travel agencies around Dar-es-Salaam which can also arrange travel. On Zanzibar, the Precision Air offices are downtown in Stone Town. The night ferry from Zanzibar to Dar-es-Salaam (there isn't one the other way), is quite comfortable in first class (the only class as a tourist you're allowed). Get there early to get a whole couch to lie on. This ferry is cheapish, and saves you from needing a hotel. Just try not to use the bathrooms!

Money: ATMs only in major or tourist towns. Barclays bank now has several branches in Tanzania: Arusha, Dar es salaam, and their newest one which just opened on Zanzibar. All of these have ATMs which accept most international cards. Apparently Barclays on Zanzibar is testing an ATM which dispenses USD as well as t-shillings - but no confirmation on this yet. Normally never a problem to change USD travellers cheques.
Costs: Budget on about US$30 to $35 a day on the beaten track. A visit to Zanzibar will raise this cost slightly and activities will completely wipe it out. See above for what to expect to pay out for a Northern circuit safari and/or Kilimanjaro climb, to name a few popular options.
People vibe:
- Locals: Normally quite friendly especially in more rural areas. Those in Zanzibar were particularly nice, open and a pleasure to talk to
- Other travellers: Wide range of tourists, many fly-in rather than long-term or 'travellers'.
Tourist factor: From 8/10 to 2/10
Accommodation: Accommodation is never normally a problem almost anywhere and don't be afraid to look past your guidebook listings
- Average cost: For a basic double room, pay about US$10-15 and twice this on Zanzibar
Communications: Internet cafes are scattered all over Tanzania and certainly Arusha. Internet can be slow, but is often pretty good.
Media:
- Books: Second hand books for sale in Zanzibar Town and there is an excellent book shop with guidebooks in Dar es Salaam next to Steers (South African hamburger chain) restaurant
Food: Food on tours is usually great, as is that on the coast. The food market in Zanzibar Town every night is perhaps one of the best eating experiences in the world if you like seafood. Food becomes more basic off the beaten track.
- Vegetarians: Fine, great seafood on Zanzibar
Hassle and annoyance factor: Safari touts are a factor in Arusha and Moshi and recommended to be avoided. Walking around major towns especially Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar town, you seem to get approached by a large number of people simply wanting to chat or help you out. These are best avoided as can sometimes lead to a nasty situation or scam.
- Women alone: Tanzania does have a large Muslim population, so consideration is needed, but on the whole a woman travelling alone should be fine
Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: Aside from cheap plentiful beer, grass - just like in most of Africa - can normally always be found, especially on Zanzibar Island.

Rating 7.5/10

Miss at your peril: Kenya or Tanzania Safari and Islands - 'Highlight of Independent Travel'

» Zambia

Intro: Large, landlocked and right on the main Nairobi - Cape Town road. Boasting some of the finest and certainly untrammelled game reserves on the overland route. Zambia, is however is far from popular or a backpacking destination. Getting off the Malawi - Lusaka - Livingstone route and tackling the country's public transport not only gets tricky, but costs also rise surprisingly. For that reason, despite best intentions few head out into the wilds of Zambia and really can't think of any reason why anyone should, over say Malawi or Tanzania. So few ever travel extensively around Zambia on public transport, with the exception of crossing between Mpulungu on Lake Tanganyika and Karonga (Malawi). That said Zambia could well be a perfect place to explore for someone not on an over tight budget and wanting to get completely away from the backpacker circuit.

Highlights: Victoria falls (which is on the boarder with only part of the fall in Zambia, however this side is less commercialised than the Zimbabwean side). South Luangwa national park is becoming popular as a tour arranged out of Lilongwe (Malawi).
Lowlights: Lack of accommodation options outside of Livingstone and comparatively high costs for the region.

Visa strategy: Visas are not required by most Commonwealth countries, except for countries that don't have reciprocal agreements (most developed countries), these are notably: UK, Australia, Canada, NZ. Most others do need a visa which is best obtained on the border or an a nearby embassy. Fees vary from about US$40 to US$60. It is possible to get a free visa, if you have prior arrangements for accommodations and activities in Zambia. This must be arranged at least a week in advance, so your details will be on the border in time for your arrival. The normal methods for doing this are by arranging over the internet with Fawlty Towers in Livingstone (or another hostel - see guidebook for addresses) or by arranging a South Luangwa safari in Lilongwe. This is of course well worth doing, but don't leave it until the last minute.
Dangers: Like most other big African cities, Lusaka has a reputation for muggings at night
Costs: US$20-25 a day not including activities in Vic Falls or any safari
Money: ATMs in Lusaka and Livingstone - a Visa Plus over Cirrus card is useful. Barclays bank offers fee free cash advances. Well worth stocking up on USD for Zimbabwe in Lusaka
Getting around: Good buses connecting major points in the country. Trains, apart from the Dar es Salaam connection are perhaps not preferable.
Guide book: Lonely Planet
People vibe:
- Locals: Among the most friendly and best English speaking on the continent
- Other travellers: Normal crowd, a number of Peace Corp. volunteers taking breaks from work elsewhere.
Tourist factor: Considering the compact circuit taken by most 7/10, outside this 2/10
Accommodation: There is little in the way of budget accommodation in most of the country. There are now a few hostels in Lusaka, none that are very good, however worth booking in advance if arriving late. Livingstone on the other hand has many great choices, the best being Fawlty Towers.
- Average cost: US$30 - US$30, much less for dorm beds when available or in government resthouses
Communications: Internet okay in both Livingstone and Lusaka
Media:
- Books: International papers in Lusaka
- TV: DSTV in most Livingstone hostels Lusaka is a good place to catch a movie
Food: Great food in Livingstone, average westernised fare in Lusaka and basic elsewhere
- Vegetarians: Fine
Hassle and annoyance factor: None really
- Women alone: Not normally a big problem

Rating Considering you get half of Victoria Falls in Zambia and Livingstone is a great place 6/10, elsewhere 4/10

East & Southern Africa: The Backpacker's Manual - Philip Briggs

Buy/view: in the USA (amazon.com), in Canada (amazon.ca) or in the UK (amazon.co.uk)

Highly Recommended

Although sometime, out dated all of Philip Briggs guides come recommended.

Remember, this is only a take (an overview if you will); very few get the chance to see every inch of every country or have the time to get everyone's opinion (you are welcome and encouraged to mail in yours). Please, please if you have been anywhere recently send your comments to contribute and help keep all information fresh for future travellers. Or if you are about to head off remember this site when you return and put a few lines in an e-mail to let us know if things have changed.

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