Southern Africa
 

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Some things you might want to know in the way of backpacking, budget travel country specific advice, tips and info for: Southern Africa - Botswana, Lesotho, Namibia, South Africa, Swaziland and Zimbabwe. You can also see West, East and North Africa in other sections.

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    Southern Africa

» Botswana

• Intro: One of Africa's few economic successes (in large part due to what the British didn't find under the soil), Botswana (despite featuring high on wish lists) is visited by very few budget independent travellers who if anything transit and is pretty much the realm of overland trucks and expensive 'safe' African package tours. In a nutshell transport to anywhere of interest is a major problem and quite expensive. Accommodation also is nowhere near widespread or affordable. What has happened in Botswana is quite simply the promotion of high cost, low impact tourism (we like the second bit), which means that backpackers are all but priced out (unless on a camping tour) of trips out of the heart of the Okavango delta (though less expensive trips can be arranged out of Maun). Perhaps for all it has to offer the only compelling reason to visit Botswana over neighbouring countries is if you have your own car (or on an overland truck) plus tent and are transiting between Vic Falls and Namibia (as most tours do).

  • Highlights: Chobe National Park - elephant filled, really need a 4x4 or take a tour from Vic Falls. Okavango Swamp, unique inland delta - fast becoming out priced for backpackers. It is recommended that you head for the western delta (aka. the panhandle), Sepuna for cheap mokoro trips. Our opinion is we don't rate the delta that highly considering cost and would much prefer to take the same type of river trip in Brazil or Bolivia.

  • Lowlights: Costs and distances - the fact that if you go independently without your own car or tent you will get to Francistown, Gaborone and that's about it - both of no interest (stay in Zimbabwe).

• Visa strategy: 30 day free on border for USA, Commonwealth and EU.

• Typical tourist trail: Overland truck from Vic Falls to Chobe to Okavango to Namibia.

• Dangers: Crime is rare for Africa, but make sure you keep your petrol tank full and take sensible precautions.

• Hot/cold, wet and dry: Hot although cold at night, desert on the whole. Delta and falls areas subject to humidity and rain for a few months every year.

• Costs: About US$30-40 per day, with a car and tent. Tours cost about 60-100USD per day from Vic Falls. Consider spending much more for mokoro trips in the delta, the sky is the limit when it comes to costs in this region and if you are heading elsewhere in the region and on a budget consider waiting till Uganda/Zimbabwe/Kenya, etc.

• Money: ATMs - rand easily changed

• Getting around: There's a fairly efficient network of buses and minibuses running along the main tar road through the eastern corridor. Hitching on this road is possible. Useful public transport elsewhere only really takes you between Nata and Maun. There is a train between Gaborone and Francistown. There is also a good connection between Maun and Windhoek in Namibia. Your best bet is to bring a hire car from South Africa.

• Guide book: Not really required for normal rush through tour trips - otherwise Lonely planet

• Tourist factor: 7/10 on main circuit

• Accommodation: At least one campsite in most places of interest. Other budget accommodation is virtually non-existent. 

  • Average cost: Without a tent, expect to pay something like US$30-60 a night if not in a remote area and on the budget circuit.

• Health: Hygiene comparable to Namibia. Malaria is rife in the Okavango and Chobe, but limited at most elsewhere (except after rain).

• Food: Supermarkets, many BBQ sites

  • Vegetarians: Fine

• Hassle and annoyance factor: None

  • Women alone: Fine

• Rating 5.5/10

» Lesotho

• Intro: Lesotho is small land locked mountainous kingdom. The lowest point of Lesotho is the highest [lowest point] of any nation in the world. Barren wild mountainous scenery, fenceless, bare, sometimes bitterly cold, friendly people with a cultural visibility uncommon in South Africa, perfect for hiking, horse riding or just to get off the track and feel remoteness. Considerably less visited compared to Swaziland and some what impregnable to backpackers with one way routes taking you to one of only a few lodges (normally at the end of a long dirt road) where you can stay for a few nights walking or riding by day, huddled around a fire at night. Well worth a visit (not just the common trip of over the Sani pass from South Africa for a day). A hidden gem of South Africa.

  • Highlights: Mountainous fenceless scenery - Semonkong

  • Lowlights: Access and roads

• Visa strategy: Not required by South Africa, almost all EU15 countries, USA, Canada, Israel and Japan. Others such as Australia, New Zealand, Belgium and Austria might need one and should check in Pretoria - otherwise you will normally get three days transit on the border.

• Typical tourist trail: Day trips over the Sani pass or out to Malealea or Semonkong and back via the capital

• Dangers: Typical African petty crime in capital

• Hot/cold, wet and dry: Winter temperatures can often drop below 0 degrees C. John Jose (who lived at the mission in Semonkong for 3 yr) informs that: 'To say that winter temps can drop below zero may be insufficient warning. I saw frost in every calendar month. About 100 days of frost/yr ... frequent hard frost in winter sometimes required taps left open all night to prevent pipes bursting.'

• Costs: Slightly cheaper than South Africa

• Money: The Loti is pegged 1:1 with the SA - take enough cash from South Africa. Both Rand and Loti are accepted as legal tender within Lesotho.

• Getting around: The only tar roads are in the west near Maseru, you will need a 4x4 for the Sani pass. Buses cover most, but not all routes (slowly). Best bet is with a rented car from South Africa, but check you can take your car to Lesotho with your rental agency.

• People vibe: 

  • Locals: Generally friendly, they stop asking for money when you get to know them

  • Other travellers: South Africa visitors and a few Peace Corps on top of the usual suspects

• Tourist factor: 6/10

• Accommodation: The three main lodges in the country are not backpacker lodges, but do have dorms for standard rates. Doubles will be expensive compared to South African hostels.

  • Average cost: Around US$5-10 for a dorm, US$20 - US$50 for a double

• Communications: Most areas of interest don't even have a phone

• Food: Meals at accommodation can be a little expensive. If on a super tight budget then bring food from South Africa or the capital to cook for yourself.

  • Vegetarians: Fine

• Rating 8/10

» Namibia

• Highlights: Etosha, given its setting, is probably is the best game reserve in Southern Africa, but is not a million miles ahead of the much more easily visited Kruger and does not match East Africa's best. Despite the long drive (which turns out to be the highlight) to see sand dunes, the Namib-Naukluf is a remarkable site. Swakopmund, especially the quad biking available is also well worth it.

• Lowlights: Distances, lack of public transport and dirt roads that make driving at any speed really quite dangerous. If you have seen the Grand Canyon, the Fish River Canyon will probably disappoint.

• Visa strategy: 90 days on arrival normally for neighbouring countries, American, Commonwealth and EU passport holders.

• Typical tourist trail: Overland between Cape Town and Vic Falls via Fish river canyon, the Namib-Naukluf, Swakopmund/Windhoek and Etosha NP.

• Dangers: If self driving the dirt covering roads especially whilst on the roads that crisscross the vast Namib-Naukluf means that speeds over 80kph (in a non-4x4) mean any braking or sudden turns easily translate to skidding. It is of course also very important to make sure you are topped up with oil/water/fuel.

• Hot/cold, wet and dry: Desert nights can get quite chilly, other than that it can often get very hot and since dust on the road prevents windows being down, having AC in your car is well worth the extra cost.

• Costs: A little cheaper than South Africa, the main cost is fuel. Entry fees are about N$40 a day and double for Etosha and normally plus N$10-20 for a car.

• Money: The Namibian dollar is 1 to 1 with the South African rand which you can spend freely. ATMs in major cities.

• What to take: If you are travelling independently with your own transport, a tent brought cheaply from South Africa is a worthy investment since unless you are booking far ahead in national parks and willing to pay big money you'll have problems. If on a budget you really need a tent to visit Etosha. Camping rates are always reasonable, fixed accommodation is often not. A weeks trip will pay for a tent no problem. It also removes some of the worry about where to stay if on the road late.

• Getting around: Buses cover the main B1 road which acts as the spine of the country, and side roads to Swakopmund (also a train here from Windhoek). Its about US$70 from Windhoek to Cape Town or Maun in Botswana. As mentioned there is more than a strong case for getting a group together and renting a car. These are a little more expensive in Namibia than South Africa, so you may want to bring one from there. As with South Africa, the best deals are normally found before you leave on the internet. If driving is not an option, any hostel will put you in touch with a camping tour which will cost about US$40-60 a day inclusive.

• Guide book: Not over important. Footprint guide is good, but so are others.

• People vibe:

  • Locals: Similar to South Africa, generally nice.

  • Other travellers: A large number of overlanders

• Tourist factor: 7/10

• Accommodation: As mentioned, if you are not on a tour and are going out to national parks, it is worth taking your own tent to cut costs. Or at least worth booking any accommodation in advance.

  • Hot water: Never a problem, even in national parks

  • Average cost: Expect about US$40 for a basic room or chalet, about US$10-20 to pitch a tent (for two) and in Swakopmund and Windhoek hostels slightly cheaper than South Africa (US$10-20).

• Communications: Internet in Swakopmund and Windhoek hostels

• Food: Supermarkets as in South Africa are plentiful and well stocked. If not on a tour and visiting National parks, these normally have BBQ or some facilitates for you to self cater in order to cut costs as selection can be very limited when reaching far flung national parks. Shops for emergencies in most national parks, but don't bank on getting food there (apart from Etosha).

• • Vegetarians: Fine

• Hassle and annoyance factor: None

  • Women alone: Perfectly fine

• Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: Windhoek beer, highly rated

• Rating 6.5/10

» South Africa

Miss at your peril: - 'Highlight of Independent Travel'

• Intro: South Africa apart from being one of and most under-rated backpacking destinations around, is a country of stunning variety. Forgetting the gems and highlights easily visited in its bordering nations, you've got everything from the typical African acacia scrub in Kruger national park to the typically un-African green fynbos clad slopes of Cape Town. In between there is everything from wine lands to the mountainous Drakensbergs to a red desert. Most importantly among all this is one of the worlds best networks of hostels and budget accommodation.

You have the opportunity to have your trip as African (Zulu land hut) or un-African (Jo'burg shopping centre) as you wish. And last but not least is the fact that the rand is, having been for a while and looks like staying, a generally accepted under-valued currency. Therefore, and certainly if you are spending GBP or EUR, your money really does go far for a developed nation, and just as well really since there are so many brilliant things to do (most quite reasonable) from the world's highest bungee jump to sand boarding to getting in the water with Great White Sharks!

So what's the down side? Well there is always crime, which in actual fact (despite its undeniable presence) few travellers really come across in any measure considering the over paranoid precautions normally taken by them and almost any one else in the country with anything worth stealing. Public transport can't be relied on completely and you do really need to join a hop-on-hop-off backpacker bus or better still hire a car. The country lacks the history of somewhere like Israel or India, the exoticism of the likes of Peru and Thailand, and certainly perhaps the beauty and compactness of say New Zealand. Nevertheless, it still has all that in small measure and a lot more besides.

Highly recommended and certainly not to be missed over most other African destinations and/or the typical 'round-the-world' imagination lacking hang outs.

• Highlights: Wide network of great hostels with great social scenes, good infrastructure, numerous attractions from very 'western' to very 'African' and the easy to enjoy beach life. Many travellers rate Cape Town and the Garden Route as their highlight which are both interesting and pretty, however many others rate the less visited KwaZulu-Natal including the Drakensbergs, battle fields, St. Luscia and numerous beaches as their highlight.

• Lowlights: Initial paranoia regarding crime, lack of affordable public transport and big cities

• Getting around: South Africa does lack an effective public transport system or at least one that is both practical and accessible to backpackers (apart from inter-city buses). With so much to be seen and many of the countries best attractions lying far outside town centres, without a doubt the best way to get around is with your own hired car. On a long term rental (30 days) with unlimited miles, expect to pay about US$20-30 for a basic (but fine car) and about five bucks more for a nice one with AC, etc. This price does raise the shorter the rental is. The best way to get a good deal is to book your car in advance through the internet before you leave. You will find many good offers through a simple search and can iron out all the details such as taking the car to Namibia, Botswana etc. Rental is normally arranged through an agency, however cars are generally supplied through a big international company such as Avis. One way drop-offs cost as little as US$20. All in all, sharing the cost, a hire car in South Africa is the difference between a great and amazing trip and a money saver in the long term.

If you can't or don't want to drive, in addition to the few intercity buses, there is an effective backpacker bus running. Similar to its Australian and Kiwi counter parts, the Baz Bus (http://www.bazbus.com/) is a hop-on and hop-off unlimited time ticket bus that drops you and picks you up directly at your hostel following the most popular routes around the country (that of the coast line). The bus works well if you really can't or won't drive, but travel times are slow as drop offs and collections take a while and varying pick up times can see you lose time while you hang around waiting to be collected. You also need to consider the other people on the bus you are seemingly forced into a group with and the fact that once at your hostel you are more or less stranded.

• Guide book: The Rough Guide to South Africa is without a doubt the best guide, but others were not particularly bad.

• People vibe:

  • Locals: The 'A' word is of course no longer applicable, but you can't help feeling some separation between whites and blacks and you'll often find myself in a crowd made up almost entirely of one or the other. The fact is that most (if not all) hostels are owned by whites and that is where you spend most of your time. The legacy of South Africa's terrible past can still be felt and takes a while for the average traveller to adjust to.

  • Other travellers: Independent travellers are generally a little bit older than you might find in Australia or New Zealand. These are the normal crowd of American, EU (mainly British) and a few Australian/Kiwis. However, surprisingly few Israelis.

• Tourist factor: 6.5/10 more in Cape Town

• Accommodation: There is a large and excellent network of backpacker hostels throughout the country. These can all be found in what becomes the South Africa travel bible - the great Coast to Coast accommodation guide. There is a hostel in any given 'tourist attraction/route' town and they are without a doubt the cheapest and best option. With a great social scene and loads of information on offer. Some would say (its a close call with New Zealand) that South Africa has the best hostel network in the world, and is a real highlight. It is normally never a problem to get a dorm bed, but doubles do need phoning ahead for. You can also pitch your tent in hostel gardens, however you are going to only save a dollar or so per night doing so.

  • Average cost: From US$10-20 for a dorm bed to US$30-40 for a nice double

• Communications: International calling cards can be brought to make calls home through phone booths, but it is better if you are called back on that line. Internet is plentiful, but perhaps a little over priced.

• Health: There are few tropical diseases to be found in South Africa apart from Bilharzia in lakes and some malaria in the wet season. Malaria is limited to low-lying parts of Zululand and Mpumanlanga (Kruger NP) and most travellers don't take or need anti-malarials.

• Media:

  • Books: Great book shops at just under european prices

  • TV: DSTV (cable) in most hostels and good value cinemas

• Food: All hostels have facilities to cook for yourself and most super markets are great with loads of cheap fresh produce. However, not all backpackers cook for themselves since eating out is a good value option and often proves too tempting. Except in the Transkei tap water is fine to drink.

  • Vegetarians: Great

• Hassle and annoyance factor: None really

  • Women alone: Fine with the same commonsense that applies to everyone

• Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: There is normally a lot of boozing at hostels, many have a good drinking/party scene on the right night. Beer, wine plus spirits and cigarettes are excellent value. Pot is both widely smoked and available.

• Rating 8.5/10

» Swaziland

• Intro: Bordering Mozambique and in the spanner grip of South Africa, Swaziland is the most popular side trip from South Africa and often transited going to or from Mozambique. Unlike Lesotho, Swaziland is transited by good roads and much of its popularity lies in its position between Kruger NP and St. Lucia/Durban, not to mention the Baz Bus (a popular South African backpacker transport option, see South Africa summary above) runs right through. Some of the scenery is striking and there are many ways to have an 'African' experience, but you wouldn't want to miss Lesotho or Zululand over it.

  • Highlights: Any royal festival and Myxos place where you can get a true taste of rural life. Both the Mlilwane wildlife sanctuary and white-water rafting are nice and equally popular

• Visa strategy: If you got into South Africa without requiring a visa in advance, then it is just a free stamp on the border

• Typical tourist trail: Manzini to Mlilwane sanctuary and then onwards to Mozambique or South Africa

• Costs: A little cheaper than South Africa

• Money: Rand is accepted, ATMs in big cities

• Getting around: Public transport okay, but best to have own transport or Baz Bus ticket

• Tourist factor: 6.5/10

• Accommodation: Few hostels and a few interesting community projects

  • Average cost: About US$10 for a bed, up to three times this for a double

• Communications: Internet is available, but expensive

• Health: As with South Africa

• Food: As with South Africa, hostels normally provide a meal option for sale, or you can cook

  • Vegetarians: Fine

• Hassle and annoyance factor: None really

  • Women alone: Fine

• Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: Swaziland grass is famous all over South Africa and found quite easily in country, although taking it across the border is not really a bright idea.

• Rating 6/10

» Zimbabwe

Miss at your peril: - 'Highlight of Independent Travel'

- However bear in mind: the economy is in shatters and you would be wise to stick to what remains of the tourist trail in the current climate.

• High & lows:

  • Highlights: Victoria Falls, the Zimbabwe side is both bigger and more impressive than across the border. The Mana Pools are a great and unique place to see wildlife, as is Lake Kariba. In addition Great Zimbabwe ruins are among the most impressive in Africa and Matopos N P, while lacking in big games makes up for with unique scenery and a sense of history.

  • Lowlights: Sad state of affairs within the country. Harare can easily be avoided and probably - for the mean time - should.

• Health: Zim is quite a healthy country (despite research putting the average life expectance at less than 40!) and it is normally okay to eat and drink what you like. Malaria is present in the Zambezi valley and especially in the wet season is a high risk. Elsewhere in the dry seasons malaria risk is very low.

• Dangers: This is obviously a period of unrest for the country and crime certainly is on the increase. The usual rules apply, especially at night and Harare is a particular trouble spot (Bulawayo makes a much nicer base). However in places like Kariba Town, the wildlife is probably a bigger danger than crime!

• Typical tourist trail: Either from Malawi, via Mozambique to Harare side trip to Mana Pools, then to Bulawayo and Vic Falls. Or (more typical) Vic Falls, Bulawayo, South Africa. Some travels head to Hwange game park which can easily be arranged as a package in Vic falls. Or to Matopos N P which is full of history just 40kms from Bulawayo. Few are now making it to Great Zimbabwe the ruins which the country takes it name from since all or almost all budget accommodation options in the area have closed.

• Visa strategy: Free for most nationalities, but seemingly changing rapidly. Americans and Canadians among a few others now need visas. Up to three months stamped on entry. Reports of problems entering the country on a one-way ticket.

• Hot/cold, wet and dry: Vic Falls is most impressive around March after the countries rains. Summer (November-December-January) can be very hot

• Getting around: Good buses connect the country on good roads and there are good train linkages, the most popular taking you from Vic Falls to Bulawayo via Hwange NP and from Bulawayo to Harare. It is also possible to hire a car, which in a group makes real sense and savings visiting Matobo NP and Great Zimbabwe ruins.

• Tourist factor: Vic Falls is touristy and your money can go fast on USD priced activities, but a lot of the rest of the country seemed quite void of travellers. 4/10

Cost & Money

• Hassle and annoyance factor: A lot of hassle at Victoria Falls and then a surprisingly limited amount elsewhere apart from the odd curio sellers you meet

  • Women alone: Apart from a few guys hitting on you, you will be fine

• Accommodation: In common with the rest of Southern Africa, Zimbabwe has quite a good network of backpacker hostels - although many are now closed or closing with backpacker numbers so much reduced. A good price and a friendly owner come as standard. They are almost all white owned and some might be private homes. Elsewhere you can camp or find a small guesthouse. National parks have both reasonably priced accommodation and camping.

  • Average cost: About US$5-10 a bed

• People vibe:

  • Locals: On the whole great people, both white and black (both having a hard time)

  • Other travellers: Few with present situation and rap

• Communications: Internet is not a problem in most places backpackers end up, but often slow. International phone calls are reasonably priced from big cities

• Media:

  • Books: Book shops in Harare, Mutare and Bulawayo. You will also find some second hand book shops in the same towns. International newspapers on sale

  • Guide book: Many guidebooks available, however almost all are now out of date.

  • TV: English language TV and DSTV in many hostels

• Food: Good standard of supermarkets and restaurants, most hostels provide great food in house

  • Vegetarians: Fine

• Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: Always available and cheaply

• Rating 7.5/10

Comment: January we travelled through Zimbabwe from Victoria Falls to Harare. It was a wonderful place and after spending just under three weeks there did at any point did i feel in any danger. In fact most hostels we found great as they had not seen many backpackers in months. The train journey from Vic falls to Bulawayo was great. The whole experience was a pleasure. Best shared however as backpackers are very few and far between. - Amanda Rivett

Age is a very high price to pay for maturity

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