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Some things you might want to know in the way of backpacking, budget travel country advice, info and summaries for: South America - Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador and Peru. Plus shorter summaries for Argentina, Paraguay & Uruguay.

For Central America go here. Also see: Galapagos Cruises

» It is worth looking, if you have not already, at the example layout to see the guidelines each section of information is based on - or for other travel advice and site home head for http://travelindependent.info

• Typical tourist trail: Rio to the coast and down to Foz do Iguaçu then on to Paraguay

• Dangers: Some violent crime. Care is required in big cities as with anywhere in South America. Although few travellers experience serious problems it is worth remembering that along with a handful of other places on the globe, Brazil can be a very dangerous country with one of the highest rates of violent crime in the world, and care is needed even by day. Simple precautions like not wearing a flashy watch and not using ATMs on deserted streets and always hide your PIN make a lot of sense.

• Costs: US$50-60 a day should cover you, if hitting some big cities. If you want your money to go the furthest, Northern Brazil is certainly cheaper and some knowledge of Portuguese is essential. Kitchens in many hostels and good super markets mean self-caters can really reduce daily costs. The same goes with using dorm bed rather than private rooms.

  Brazil has never been cheap compared to many other Latin American counties, but is getting increasingly more expensive mainly due to its massive economic growth which has significantly strengthened the Real as a currency. Those expecting ultra-budget travel, beware.

• Money: ATMs commonplace, although many don't work on the international network. Look for HSBC branches which use the VISA network (Cirrus much less common). Most bank change Travellers Cheques, but changing cash or TCs on a Sunday can be quite difficult. On the whole you can pay for most of your day to day getting about with a debit/credit card (need PIN number), which limits your need to carry too much cash.

• Guide book: Rough Guide or Lonely Planet. For a full list of regional guides please see here.

• People vibe:

  • Locals: Very friendly and welcoming, especially if you make an effort with Portuguese. Younger travellers getting a little off the beaten track and staying in communal accommodation are often welcomed into beach parties and make friends very easily.

  • Other travellers: Many British/Irish, not so many typical Gringos. Worth noting is as with in South East Asia, a large number of Israelis.

• Tourist factor: 6/10 (obviously away from Rio and other main attractions)

• Accommodation: Can be quite expensive relative to the rest of South America. There has been a big increase in international style hostels in the past few years, but away from Rio and the like, you are limited to the smaller less traveller/non-Portuguese speaking orientated Brazilian versions. For carnivals it's advisable that accommodation be booked between August and November regardless of the carnival you choose to view, although you may be offered a home stay on arrival if you're lucky. If you are looking for a double room in a Rio hostel, best book before you arrive.

  • Hot water: Fine

  • Average cost: 70R up to 110R in cities, (approx. $35 to $50) Note these are as with all average accommodation prices on this site for a double room. Is it worth noting that for Carnival or over New Year places jack their prices up, up to ten times, and have several day minimum stays.

• Communications: Okay internet, some international call centres. Post, cheapest in South America

• Food: Sometimes expensive, buying your own at good supermarkets is an option. Is it also worth noting the outstanding variety of Brazilian food and fruit juices, with so many cultures from all over the world and all the fruits from the Amazon.

  • Vegetarians: Fine

• Hassle and annoyance factor: None really, apart from Pantanal tours

  • Women alone: As with the rest of South America, single women should be very wary before taking a jungle or Pantanal tour with a male guide

• Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: Brazilians love to party and normally alcohol is involved. Cocktails including the famous Caipirinhas and it's many variations are mixed very strong - so watch how much you drink if out at night and in an unfamiliar area. Cocaine readily available in big cities if you are looking - police entrapment is common. Grass also widely available. Substances likes 'daime' or 'ayahuasca' are not illegal in much of South America (inc. Brazil). Both are two names for the same hallucinogenic that are used in rituals. The effect is similar to magic mushrooms, or peyote, or even LSD. There are many specific destinations for those who want to participate with support, although the effect is not to be underestimated.

Summer holiday's

During summer (December-February) many Brazilians take holiday's, making travel both difficult and expensive. At the same time in Rio and the rest of the south the humidity is nasty. Summer is also the most festive time of year, as Brazilians escape their apartments and take to the beaches and streets. School holidays begin in mid-December and go through to Carnival, usually held in late February.

 

Getting Around

Land: Economy buses are okay value and are usually reasonably comfortable. Deluxe buses are sometimes very comfortable, but obviously pricier. The cost of bus travel can however really add up, a hire car is an option if you have the money or are in a group. Overnight trips aren't too painful. Many companies offer difference classes on longer routes, but the distances just go on forever! Take for example the journey from Rio to Recife - 38 hours by bus. Train are a scenic option in places. 

Air: To really cover Brazil, those that can afford it may want to consider an air pass or much easier use this countries excellent budget airline network. Gol, TAM and the much troubled Varig are the three leaders. You can check all there websites to get an idea of routes, times and prices. These can be equally surprisingly low or high. Six hours on a bus, Rio to Sao Paulo can be flown for less than 50US$ (not to mention that Rio Santos Dumont and SP Congonhas airports are spectacular to take-off/land in). Booking on-line proves far more difficult, due to recognising or security checking non-Brazilian credit cards (this should change in the future), but these airlines have desks that can be found in shopping malls or airports where you can book. Equally a travel agent can do it for you, sometimes even hostels. Getting deep into the interior normally requires the use of a flight at some stage.

 

Carnival!

The three most popular Carnivals in Brazil are:

Salvador: Celebrated along 26km of streets filled with approximately 2.2 million people. It's the biggest street party on Earth according to The Guinness Book of World Records, it's also a giant open-air festival of Brazilian music for free. About 411,000 out-of-state visitors, mainly from Rio and São Paulo, come to participate in the 280+year-old party. In Salvador it's all about participating in Carnival, and not only watching when some of the best Brazilian bands and singers are in action.

Recife/Olinda: Carnival in Recife and Olinda is celebrated by approximately 1.5 million people along 12km of streets. About 100 dolls 3.6-meter tall, some dating as far back as 1932, are unique to the Saturday parade in Olinda.

Rio: Takes place along a 700-meter runway, also know as Sambódromo, an open-air stadium built 21 years ago to house the two-day extravaganza that dates back to 1932. About 70,000 people cheer from the grandstands, with tourists paying from US$100 to US$4,000 to watch the spectacle. The cost of accommodation in Rio during this time is very high and you are normally required to stay the week. Worth staying away if your are not seeing the carnival.

The main parade (on Sunday and Monday) consists of 6 samba schools per night with 4,500 people each, in colourful costumes and on floats; great for photos and video. Although largely ignored by the locals, it's popular among richer foreign tourists. The “Champions Parade” is on the Saturday following Carnival and features the top 5 winning samba schools from the previous weekend; the best way to see the highlights in Rio at a lower admission cost.

• Hot/cold, wet and dry: Trekking in Patagonia only possible in summer (European/N. American winter). Climate varies dramatically from snow to sun

• Costs: Reasonable, transportation is a major cost, especially paying for flights. Great supermarkets so do your own cooking or sandwiches. Consider US$40-60 per day

• What to take: Some warm clothing. Sleeping bags and rain gear can be hired for Patagonian treks and is okay quality, but not fantastic. You may do some camping and if you are into this scene bringing all the gear with you is a good idea. You don't need a tent to trek the Tories del Paine, there are rest houses, although they are basic (need sleeping bag) plus get very crowded in peak season and close in the winter.

• Money: ATMs

• Getting around: Great overnight buses and cheap internal flights. Turn up at the bus stations and try and get a discount on half empty departures just leaving except on holidays. A lot of locals hitchhike.

• Guide book: Lonely Planet or Footprint. Many use a regional guide. For a full list of regional guides please click here.

Getting to Patagonia

Getting to Patagonia is some what problematic, as there is no direct road link. Road transport is a lengthy route via Argentina. A flight is the easiest solution and not too costly if done with a budget carrier, not LAN Chile. There's a boat run by NaviMag that is quite expensive, but a traveller favourite. It travels through the beautiful fiord land and your trip maybe extremely beautiful or a gray haze. As with most things in Patagonia, so much depends on the weather. When travelling by sea you can expect smooth sailing while in the fiords, apart from one stretch on open seas that can be very rough.

It is worth noting that Chilean Patagonia connects easily with Argentina making trips to the spectacular Perito Moreno Glacier and Tierra del Fuego no problem.

• Intro: If you're looking to be told that Colombia is not a dangerous country, you won't find it here. Large sections are controlled by very nasty, unpredictable rebel groups. Each year there are thousands of kidnapping incidents reported throughout. Every year, many foreigners are reported kidnapped in various parts of the country. A figure that is still increasing as cocaine looses it's popularity in the US and drug lords look for other revenue streams. As recently as 2007, a British national was killed and many others before him have been killed or kidnapped. 70% of the world's kidnappings take place in Colombia. Violent crime, and especially bus hold ups are common. There's a lot written on the bad aspects of Colombia and these do on the whole relate to certain hot-spots easy to avoid, so there's no need to go on.

What we can tell you is Colombia is one of the most beautiful countries on earth and fairly vacant of tourists. Most travellers debate long and hard about visiting Colombia, finding only negative comments on the net, posted by those who have not visited. Some do make the decision to go and more often than not their appraisal is: Colombia should not be missed. Just don't get carried away exploring off the beaten track - Colombia is not like other countries. By sailing/flying into Cartagena and travelling to Ecuador or vice-versa, with common sense, it is unlikely you will have any problems other than the all present threat of theft. If possible, leave your main bag somewhere (like Ecuador) and travel very light keeping all your belongings in a day sac, thus being able to keep it near to you at all times when travelling. Colombia in places is spectacular - take care and enjoy.

• Highlights: Cartagena old town, San Agustin, Zona Cafetera north of Cali, Sierra Nevada and limited tourists

• Lowlights: Common theft and generally unsafe situation

• Visa strategy: Free upon entry for most nationalities

• Typical tourist trail: None (other than a quick transit taking in Bogotá and Cartagena)

• Getting around: Great bus system and excellent faster 'collectivos' (mini-buses that leave when full). Good value on main routes, more expensive on country routes. Travel at night at your own risk, and always know the situation along the road you are travelling.

• Costs: $35 per day, general costs much higher than in Ecuador - similar costs to Brazil

• Money: ATMs commonplace, allows you to make small withdrawals at a time

• What to take: As little as possible (keep your bag with you at all times when on public transport), all insured and nothing you mind loosing

• Guide book: Footprint and new Lonely Planet on the scene. Both with a good level of detail and practical security advice.

• People vibe:

  • Locals: Various, however many don't want anything to do with travellers, consider them all North American. Most however are very affable, friendly and welcoming.

  • Other travellers: Various, many Germans, very few north Americans - generally Europeans and Israelis

• Tourist factor: 3/10

• Accommodation: Hostels and bulk standard hotels in cities, accommodation has much more character and is cheaper in rural areas. Try and stay on a coffee farm.

  • Hot water: Normally no problem

  • Average cost: $20 big cities, $5-10 in rural areas

• Communications: Internet can be a little difficult to find, but always available.

• Media:

  • Books: Most of 'The Gringo Trail' by Mark Mann is set in Colombia and like so much fiction in it's style, is completely unrepresentative. 'A hundred years of solitude' is one of the best books based in Colombia, if not the best ever written. Other Gabriel Garcia Marquez titles are also highly recommended. As is Louis de Bernieres trilogy, the first part (his first book), 'The War of Don Emmanuel's Neither Parts' is the best of the three. Strange title (that has nothing to do with the plot), hugely funny, clearly copied style from Gabriel Garcia Marquez, but as with 'A hundred years of solitude' highly, highly recommended. (It should be noted that Louis de Bernieres trilogy is set in a fictional South American country - that resembles parts of Ecuador, Colombia and Venezuela (Grand Colombia)). Click here for other South America recommended reads.

  • TV: Spanish cable and CNN

• Food: Okay, eating out not overly cheap in cities, commonplace supermarkets means cooking for yourself in hostels is easy. Water comes in silly little packets and fruit, especially mangos are ubiquitous and cheap.

  • Vegetarians: Fine

• Hassle and annoyance factor: No real hassle, just the constant threat of crime. The most hassle is found in Cartagena.

  • Women alone: Not recommended

• Rating: 7/10

Dangers:

Dangers: Considerable in rebel areas, violent crime and petty theft are rampant. The biggest threats are night bus robbery, after dark street theft and travelling through a rebel area. Ask locals and, if necessary, your embassy. Having your bag stolen and or being threaten with violence is no joke, remember there is a higher chance of this in Colombia than in almost any other country. Again: take as little as possible, keep passport(s), ticket(s), cash, credit card(s), etc., in the safest possible place and separate from your main bag (never on your person if you can help it). Take real care of your stuff, don't be put off just be prepared if there is a problem (as you should anywhere). Common sense is the order of the day, such as giving drugs a wide berth and the one solid bit of advice: don't arrive after dark if at all possible, especially in places like Cali (unless being met at the airport) and no matter how far you have to go in urban areas even if just a five minutes walk, take a taxi. It's not just tourists, Colombians live everyday with these problems.

However, the country has improved dramatically its safety issues for tourists. 2007 was one of the best years for internal and external tourism. Millions of Colombians travelled all over the country and hundreds of thousands of foreigners visited the country. Most urban areas are considered safe for tourists (Cartagena, Bogotá, Medellin, Cali). Hot spots - Continued kidnappings make many rural areas unsafe, and travellers are advised to avoid excursions that include Choco, Putumayo, Meta and Caqueta and the rural areas of Antioquia, Cauca, Narino, and Norte de Santander.

 

Comments:

'I'm worry about foreigners being afraid to come to Colombia. There are only some parts you can't not go, but most of the tourist sites are safe. In big cities people are nice and security problems are like any other big city in Latin America.

I have spend most of my live travelling Colombia and I haven't seen a guerrilla yet. In Colombia we have many natural parks not all off them are safe but many are. Don't go to Colombia only for drugs. We on the whole produce, not consume. If people from other countries stop consuming cocaine Colombia wouldn't have drug and guerrilla problems. Don't be afraid of travelling on the main road, they have military present and are safe'. - Felipe - Bogotá

'I happened on your very good site by chance, a gift to the world. I've not much to say ..... I have been living in Barranquilla, Colombia for 6 months.  If one keeps an eye out for the bad guys, it is all quite manageable security wise. Common sense is the order of the day.  Do not go about drunk and do not even THINK of doing drugs here.  But if one is stupid enough to try that they need to stay home. Here is one solid bit:  Don't arrive after dark.  Especially in Cali.  This applies to first time travelers, etc.  Seasoned vets with folks meeting them at the airport will be OK.  Otherwise, it's a "no go" item.' - Ernie Eggler

 

Getting to Colombia from Central America

Since the Pan-American Highway grinds to a halt just past Panama City, there is no road access between North and South America. The would-be traveller has 3 options: flying, which will cost about $US160, sailing, or trekking through the Darien Gap. Since the Gap has become increasingly dangerous due to guerrilla activity and smuggling, the Darien option is not for the faint-hearted and very expensive. Read the full article here written by Glen David Short, a freelance writer based in Cartagena and posted on Caribent

 

Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol

Not as common as you might think, most of Colombia is an anti-theses to the moustache bearing, machete bearing, rolled bank note up nose image that popular media portrays. Cocaine in Colombia is - if you have contacts - available for less than US$5 a gram. If you don't have contacts buying off the street is something you should really think about before doing, as risks are high and prices inflated. On the Caribbean coast cocaine is often quite lumpy due to the humidity. Even when powdered out as much as possible, when snorted in this form can make you quite ill after a few heavy days.

• Visa strategy: Free visa on entry - around $100 park entry fee to Galapagos

• Typical tourist trail: Quito to Otavalo, back to Quito and down the avenue of volcanoes to Baños and other villages in the south. Most travellers come from Peru or Costa Rica

• Dangers: Some guerrilla activity in very north west, along Colombian border. Like Costa Rica, petty theft is becoming very prevalent and you should be extremely careful on buses and at stations. Worth reading avoiding theft section.

• Passport: Technically you should carry your passport on you at all times, although many will advise you a copy is best given the high levels of petty theft in Ecuador.

• Hot/cold, wet and dry: Jungle, coast and highlands all have different best times to go. Overall pretty much a year round scene.

• Getting around: Pretty good cheap buses. Roads good, just windy

• Guide book: Footprint

• People vibe:

  • Locals: Fine, a little tourist jaded in places

  • Other travellers: Lots of Americans and a few package tourists

• Tourist factor: 9/10

• Accommodation: Good value

  • Hot water: Normally fine, apart from jungle areas

  • Average cost: Less than $10. Quito more expensive

• Communications: Good internet

• Health: Many travellers do suffer from food poisoning and related stomach problems

• Media:

  • Books: Best if not only place for books (Baños and Quito) in South America. See Colombia summary for some recommended reading.

  • TV: English language cable in some hostels

• Food: Good choice and range in tourist areas, more limited outside. Can you bring yourself to eat a guinea pig?

  • Vegetarians: If you eat chicken fine, if not harder

• Hassle and annoyance factor: None

  • Women alone: Fine

• Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: Vilcabamba is famous for it's hallucinogenic cactuses, however most backpackers won't come across them. Grass is of course available pretty widely and certain so in beach/touristy areas.

• Rating: 5.5/10 - note that typical mainland tourist destinations are rather disappointing (Banos, Papallacta), but many speak highly about more off the beaten track regions. See comment. But then again comments are not meant to be disparaging of Ecuador, remember it summarises the whole and compares against other similar countries in the region directly.

• Dangers: Some violent crime, be careful at night – don't walk with your pack on after dark or in the early hours of the morning

• Visa strategy: Free on border

• Typical tourist trail: Bolivia - Puno, Cusco, Arequipa, Nasca, Pisco, Lima, Huaraz, Trujiillo - Ecuador.

• Hot/cold, wet and dry: Jungle, coast and highlands all have different best times to go, pretty much a year round scene. Serious coastal fog much of the year. Highland towns like Cusco get cold at night. Peru's peak tourist season is from June to August, which is the dry season in the highlands, and the best time to go for hiking. Many of the major fiestas occur in the wettest months and continue undiminished in spite of heavy rain.

• Money: ATMs; a Visa Plus as well as MasterCard's Cirrus card is useful. Can withdraw dollars in some machines.

• Costs: Not brilliant value for money compared to Bolivia or Ecuador, about $40 per day. Allow $150-$250 to do the Inca trail and much more for a jungle trip. Costs are of course lower than in a developed country, but higher than those in many neighbouring countries. Lima and Cuzco are the most expensive destinations in Peru.

• What to take: You can rent all equipment for the Inca trail in Cusco. Take good walking shoes and a warm fleece, plus if you have on, your International Student card for the Inca trail.

• Getting around: Buses, some roads (Lima to Cusco) a killer, distances just go on and on. The Pan American highway is smooth and flat. Trains are slow, cold and over priced. Internal flights good value and a necessity to get to many jungle areas.

• Tourist factor: 10/10 in Cusco, outside of 7/10 to 4/10

• Accommodation: Reasonable accommodation, brilliant choice in Cusco.

  • Hot water: Some problems

  • Average cost: Always less than $10

• Communications: Good internet in major towns

• Health: Altitude and food poisoning

• Media: For photos click here

  • Books: Very limited opportunities to buy

  • TV: Hotels with cable have Sony channel and others, with loads of treats. Restaurants and bars in Cusco show movies

• Food: Outside of Cusco, poor and expensive. Eating fixed menus is a way to keep the costs down

  • Vegetarians: Can be difficult

• Hassle and annoyance factor: Limited

  • Women alone: Normally fine, be careful at night

• People vibe: 

  • Locals: Not as friendly as other South American nations

  • Other travellers: Typical Gringos, packages in Cusco

• Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: You may hear of Cocaine available in Cusco night clubs.

• Rating: 7.0/10

» Paraguay

• A quick low down: Despite recent time spent in Paraguay, it's hard to put something down about a country such as Paraguay. To say it's void of any attraction is obvious wrong. In fact just being in a country void of the streams of tourist that flood the likes of Bolivia and Peru is a highlight, but there are no salt flats or Inca ruins here. What Paraguay offers is a look at a sleepily steamy South America.

Those with the time will surely find many a wonder, but time at the expense of visits to very similar and superior attractions in neighbouring countries (national parks and Jesuit reduccions). Paraguay is easily accessible from the Foz do Iguaçu on a day trip, but its border town is the worst the country has to offer. Six hours on a bus from the Foz do Iguaçu border, is the sleepy capital almost out of a novel - Asunción. Located right on a swampy river and the Argentina border it makes the logistics of getting across the continent (from the falls or Rio to Salta, Chile and ultimately Bolivia), much easier. From Asunción there are river boats north for a price and some interesting (if a little expensive) places to stay such as ranches, but that's it.

There's a lot of history and it's interesting to simply be there, but that's about your lot. It's not referred to as South America's empty quarter for nothing.

» Uruguay

• A quick low down: It's very hard not to like Uruguay, like Argentina and Brazil it's civilised, it's also laid back and friendly - but unlike these neighbours and more like Paraguay there's not that much going on. If you're in Buenos Aires, Uruguay can be reach easily (a few hours capital to capital and about 60US$ on the ferry) and if you have the time it's worthwhile.

The three most visited attractions and highlights are: Colonia, a charming colonial town and easier to reach from BA than Montevideo. Second comes the capital, Montevideo, seemingly a million miles away from BA in size and hassle. A pleasant place where the top attraction could be argued to be a collection of port side restaurants (Mercado del Puerto). Lastly is Punta del Este (and the whole of the so called Uruguayan Rivera plus the Santa Teresa NP) a collection of beaches that reach around to the Brazilian boarder. These beach are stunning, many in resort style, can be crowded and are, well just beaches. All of the above are well worth a look if not pushed for time or money. There is a good network of buses and budget places to stay, but none, unless endless enjoying a beach, require too much of your time. For example it can be hard to fill a day in somewhere like Colonia and the others aren't far behind. Inland you'll find few travellers and a lot of flat cattle grazing land, real gaucho country and if you want to pay for it you can relax and horse ride on ranches. Most just take in the Capital and/or Colon on a few days side trip from Argentina.

Footprint: South American Handbook 2009 - Ben Box

Buy/view:in the USA (amazon.com), in Canada (amazon.ca) or in the UK (amazon.co.uk)

Highly Recommended

For a full list of planning guides, recommended guide books and reading material, please click here.

For hostels (if you prefer them) in South America have a looks at www.minihostels.com.  They are a network of independently owned hostels all over South America and in some cities they also have language schools, tours, and restaurants.  Comment: 'The hostels I found on their site were all clean, safe, fun, and really friendly, plus on the site you can see pictures and read descriptions and link to the website of the hostel which makes it way better than hostelbookers or hostelworld.  Best of all, you can buy a minihostels card for US$10 and get 10% off every hostel in the network and all the other businesses they feature on the site.  Its pretty sweet and helped me find cool stuff to do and great places to stay and is way better organized than any other site I've found. - Rebeca