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[i] Some things you might want to know in the way of backpacking, budget travel country specific advice, tips and info for: Indochina: Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam.

As a geographic term, Indochina can also include Thailand and Burma (Myanmar), but these are can be found on the South East Asia Page along with the Philippines, Singapore, Indonesia and Malaysia.

» It is worth looking, if you have not already, at the example layout to see the guidelines each section of information is based on - or for other travel advice and site home, head for wwww.travelindependent.info

 

Editorial..

Map of Indochina

? Indochina, or French Indochina, was a federation of French colonies and protectorates. It consisted of Cochin China, Tonkin, Annam (all of which now form Vietnam), Laos and the Khmer Republic (now Cambodia).

France started assuming sovereignty after the Franco-Chinese War (1884–1885). The federation lasted until 1954. The capital was Hanoi. There was a series of puppet Emperors.

 

[book]What follows are only basic snap shot summaries. If you have decided these are some of the countries you want to visit and need more planning information then you are strongly recommended to complement what you find here with a planning guide. Trust us it will make life much easier. If you are set on going and need a guidebook or reading material please see a list of recommended guides/books here (go on have a look!). All guides/books can be viewed in more detail and click-through purchased with Amazon in the UK, US or Canada. Plus shopping through the site is a big thank you (if you have been helped out), to see why click here.

 

*  Indochina

» Cambodia

  • Intro: In a nut shell, there are perhaps three reasons why Cambodia is the new top destination in Southeast Asia. One it sounds pretty adventurous and still is to a degree, second it's close to Thailand and finally it contains one of the greatest wonders in the world - Angkor. Beaches such those around Kompong Som (aka. Sihanoukville) are below par against the high regional standard, better in Thailand and less crowded in South Vietnam (although some of the surrounding areas are very beautiful). Getting around can be a major a pain (in the arse - literary in most cases) and there is not too much to do of real interest that the rest of Asia (outside SE Asia) can't offer. However, few places in the world rival Angkor and it alone is motivation enough to head to Cambodia.

    • Highlights: The temples of Angkor* and learning something about the country's murderous past.

    • Lowlights: Road travel, package type tourists and massive development at Angkor and new 'I am the hardest traveller' type backpacker crowds. The jury is out on Sihanoukville (Cambodia's beach destination). A bizarre little place. Just a line of beach bars all offering pretty much the same thing. The cleanliness of the water is very questionable, but is to tempting to resist. Location certainly isn't idyllic, but is fun to relax for a couple of days. As with all of Cambodia's tourist hot spots, quite a bit of hassle.

  • Dangers: Nowadays, you're not really likely to get blown up sticking to the tourist trail, but do take care the country still has thousands of undiscovered landmines. The north and east can be lawless if you spend the days getting there. Watch out for sun-burn riding on the roof of the boat from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap. Bag snatching continues to be a problem in Phnom Penh.

Visa strategy:

FlagAvailable on arrival or easily arranged in Bangkok, were the cheapest agencies who will do the leg work for you are quoting around THB1000 plus one ID photo. A one month visa starts from date of issue. A 45 days visa can also be obtained for the same price but in 2 working days. It seems however possible to have the 45 day visa starting later than the date of issue. The cost at the Embassy (254 6630, just north of Lumphini Park on Ratchadamri Rd) is about $20-25 (you are required to return the next day or same day ($9 extra)). This embassy is usually busy and open for applications from 9 to 11am only.

In an effort to boost tourism, you can now also apply for a single entry tourist e-visa on line, by filling out a form and paying by credit card. You'll need a JPEG or GIF photo and won't be able to use an e-visa on every crossing point. More details here.

There are now six full international border crossings between Cambodia and Thailand; all are open 07:00-20:00 and Visa on Arrival is available at every single one, official tourist visa price is US$20 (you have to pay in USD notes to get this price) but in practice you're likely to have to pay more in Baht notably at Poipet and Koh Kong where officials like to inflate the price. At the airports of Phnom Penh or Siem Reap, the cost is US$20 plus 2 photos. See Laos for Cambodia to Laos border crossing details.

  • Hot/cold, wet and dry: Normally very hot, avoid May-July. Christmas is the best and most crowded time to visit weather wise.

  • Typical tourist trail: From Bangkok to Siem Reap which is the gateway town for Angkor, then by boat to the capital Phnom Penh (PP) and sometimes onto the coast, often onto Saigon/HCMC (or the reverse).

  • Costs: Cambodia is cheap. Nonetheless, it is getting more expensive in places and there some foreigner pricing (for example would be the boat from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap), coupled with the entrance pass to Angkor (around $40 three days, $60 for longer (still worth every penny) - but this is bound to rise) costs do mount up. With the great in flux of tourists more and more western treats are found for sale. However a can of diet coke in the jungle won't be any cheaper than in a pricey corner store in your home country despite the fact Cambodia remains one of the poorest countries in Asia. Away from the beaten track life gets very cheap, but quality drops like a stone. On the whole certainly cheaper than Thailand, perhaps more expensive than Nepal/Laos. Hotels are good value. Consider US$20-30 per day excluding entry fees.

  • Money: You can now find a few international ATMs in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap and Sihanoukville, but it is advisable to take cash - USD or THB. Traveller cheques can be cashed with normal ease when in either Siem Reap or Phnom Penh. If heading away from larger cities, stick with cash. USDs are widely accepted.

  • Angkor Wat, Cambodia - taken by Umberta CroceGuide book: Lonely Planet widely used, good Angkor section, available for around US$10 in Siem Reap, but not really needed. Other good just Angkor guides available on site. For a full list of regional guides and other reading please click here.

  • People vibe:

    • Locals: Smiling, friendly locals, who have learnt to say 'one dollar' very quickly. This 'give me your American money' attitude can jade experiences - similar to when tourists first came en mass to Vietnam. After all Cambodia is a notable poor country with 50% of the population living on less than a dollar a day.

    • Other travellers: Lots of package type tourists and Japanese at Angkor. Quite a lot of want-to-be hardcore backpackers with a supercilious attitude towards others who really seem to think they are doings something cool and different. Please, this is South East Asia!

  • Tourist factor: 7/10, at Angkor expect big crowds

  • Getting around: Take boats wherever possible, roads on the whole are some of the worst in the region, if not the world. Ferries are normally safe, but overloading can be a problem. Boat traffic is generally frequent enough that at least one boat a day departs for most destinations. However, the three main routes to Phnom Penh (from Siem Reap, Sisophon, and Sihanoukville) are all sealed and in good condition and over the past few years there has been many improvements on other roads, (Phnom Penh to Battambang - 3.5 hours / Phnom Penh to Siem Reap - 5-6 hours). Most other roads are unpaved dirt, most in abysmal condition. The only passenger train travels very slowly from Phnom Penh to Battambang every other day.

  • Getting there: If you have the spare cash it's recommended to fly in and out of the country (unless you're a sucker for punishment, but note the international departure tax is quite pricey). From Bangkok, KL and Singapore, there are now daily or almost daily flights direct to Siem Reap and Phnom Penh. For those who can't/won't afford the luxury of a plane many tourist geared mini-buses operate from the Ko San Road. Although much, much better than in previous years the road from Thailand is still in a bad state. For full details of road transport from Bangkok to Cambodia, you are directed to the excellent detail and images on the Tales of Asia site. Either way, getting to see Angkor is now very easy. The downside is of course tourist numbers compared to the 90's have gone through the roof.

  • Accommodation: Great mid-range hotels at good prices, easy in Siem Reap and Phnom Penh.

    • Hot water: Never a problem in major towns

    • Average cost: $15-30, great mid range rooms in Siem Reap and  Phnom Penh. Like elsewhere in the region, off the beaten track and outside big cities, basic accommodation can be found very cheap.

  • Communications: Internet easy in major towns

  • Media:

    • Books: Some expensive book shops in Phnom Penh. Many books to read regarding Cambodia's infamous past and the spilling over of the Vietnam war into Cambodia

    • TV: Cable TV in main city hotels and bars

  • Food: Limited choice and for what you get, by Asian standards, can be expensive.

    • Vegetarians: No problem (you eat Spiders!?)

  • Hassle and annoyance factor: 4/10, touts in Siem Reap and a few beggars. Frustrating 'one dollar' attitude in Siem Reap around temples. Recent reports of motorcycle bag snatching in Phnom Penh.

    • Women alone: Never a problem

  • Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: Great (but not overly cheap) draught beer and pool in Phnom Penh. Grass no longer that widely available, but still about. In Phnom Penh and Siem Reap you can find Happy Herb pizzerias where you might get an extra topping, but the police crack down occasionally.

  • Rating: With Angkor 9/10, without 5/10.

Angkor and Angkor Wat:

For those that don't know Angkor is a collection of temples in North West Cambodia close to Siem Reap. The most iconic, biggest and frequently pictured (shown above and on the national flag) is Angkor Wat. Contained in the Angkor Archaeological Park stretching over some 400 sq. km, most dense forested area, Angkor contains the spectacular remains of several capitals of the Khmer Empire dating from the 9th to the 15th century. See Google Map image.

The most popular and largest temples are Angkor Wat at Angkor Thom and the Bayon Temple with its many face looking like something straight out of Tomb Raider. Equally popular are temples where huge trees have grown on and in temples enveloping them in roots. The main temples are quite well restored, but many temples are in a bad shape of repair and much damage/vandalism has done over the years. In all temples the level of detail in the stone work is exceptional. To a certain extend the appeal is the sheer scale of the area and the 'discovering a lost temple in the jungle' feel you'll get at many smaller sites which have almost become one with the jungle and are away from the tourist trail which focuses on the larger grander temples. The larger/popular temples will see huge visitor numbers, more so at peak times of the day/year.

The temples can broadly be categorized into four groups: Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom, the grandest temple of all and the ancient capital next to it. The Little Circuit, taking in major sites to the east of Angkor Thom. The Big Circuit, taking in major sites north and further out east. The Roluos group, 15 km east from Siem Reap along National Highway 6. The Outlying temples, located over 20 km for Angkor Wat. You'll need at least 2-3 days to get a good feeling of it all - there's plenty of information on these temples and routes in any guidebook and local archeological guides can be hired easily for around US$20.

To get the best out of Angkor you'll really need to find some space away from the big crowds and tour groups. This can be done by getting up early (it opens at five) and avoiding the famous temples and peak times as well as heading to outlying areas. Transport is an issue due to the complex size and Angkor is pretty hot year round - you could get around Angkor Wat and other nearby temples on a bicycles, but really you'll need more than pedal power and the heat makes it hard work. Tuk-Tuks, motorbikes or cars with drivers are the most popular options from US$10-30 a day (cheaper for motorbikes). The very best option is your own transport and the freedom this gives you can't be beat. In Siem Reap renting motorbikes to foreigners (without a driver) is banned and is difficult (not impossible) to get around. Best bet is hire elsewhere and bring it along. Tour buses should be avoided as they visit few sites, are crowded and give no freedom.

* Miss at your peril: Angkor - 'Highlight of Independent Travel'

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» Laos

  • Beer LaoIntro: Currently Asia's hippest destination, from Beijing to Islamabad, the name Laos is being whispered among backpackers as some fantastic, esoteric, void of tourists destination. Sorry, it's not. As nice as it is, many parts are becoming an extended run from Thailand. If you want to see Laos you need to spend the time and effort getting to the hill tribe areas in the north (this is best done to or from China). The idea is that since tourists have only been allowed into Laos since 1989, you will be something of a novelty and have the opportunity to see the, if not the last bit of, 'real' Southeast Asia. Well the really interesting days have pasted five to ten years back, which is where many of the stories come from. Laos is a nice destination and the north is unique, but on the whole, especially the Luang Prabang - Vientiane run, you may see more tourists than in Thailand, after all it is just next door. If you do spend the time and effort travelling further a field you will be a novelty, but you would have earned it, as overland, (non-river) transport is hard work.

  • Visa strategy: Get your visa for 15 or 30 days in Bangkok or on arrival at the Friendship bridge. A Laos visa in Vietnam is much more expensive than in Bangkok where it is easy to obtain. In Bangkok it's possible to get a one month visa in one working day. The cost, if you go yourself to the embassy at 8am and collect it in the afternoon should be around THB1500 (for most western nationalities, cheaper for Asians & Israelis, more expensive for Canadians, Americans, Japanese or Germans). The embassy is quite remote and tricky to get to (Bus No60, then taxi), so you will be better off to leave the leg-work to an agency for a commission for as little as THB100-150 (check around). A one month visa should cost THB1400.

  • FlagHighlights: Luang Prabang, Northern hill tribe areas, Muang Sing, a river boat trip and Si Phan Don (Four Thousand Islands) in the south. The newly opened crossing Northern crossing from Laos to Vietnam (Than Hoa, via Sam Neua) is spectacular, but transport is quite difficult and you'll need some spare time. Friendly border staff, who still find westerners a novelty.

  • Lowlights: Vientiane and Muang Vangviang (aka. Vangviang - nice, but now nothing but an over-developed backpacker town - karst mountains and caves in China more impressive)

 

Crossing into Cambodia:

The overland border between Laos and Cambodia - long closed is now open. For years this border attracted a lot of attention from elite type backpackers. Original info was to go to Don Det island, (south from Don Khong) then to the Friendship cafe (or something else like that). At the boat landing you can organize a boat to the road then a truck down to the Laos border. At the border you must pay to get stamped out of Laos. Some guest houses in Kratie may try to sell you the ticket for US$50. The border crossing is in the middle of forest and there is pretty much nothing else there than a few customs officials and a bad road in Laos side. You may not find any transportation at the border and what you do find is likely overpriced. At the Cambodian border, pay again. This crossing is now much easier and frequently used - but there is still no visa on arrival.

  • Typical tourist trail: Chang Mai (north Thailand) into Laos at Huay Xai crossing, boat to Luang Prabang with an overnight stop. Bus to Vangviang then Vientiane (or in reverse). Then sometimes back to Thailand or the bumpy ride onto Vietnam

  • Dangers: Considering how sleepy Laos is, you wouldn't expect any danger, but take a look at your countries advisory website, there have been bomb blasts in Vientiane and guerrilla activity in the past. There is of course much unexploded ordinance in rural areas.

  • Costs: Cheap, even with eating like a king in Luang Prabang US$20 a day is fine. However, boat trips and air fairs are normally subject to foreigner pricing and drain your funds a little. The cheapest part of Laos is everything south of Savannakhet, including the gorgeous 1000 island region on the Mekong. The popular (and plausible) explanation for this is that since Luang Pabrang was declared a UNESCO world heritage site, the north has been flooded with tourists. The Vientiane/Vang Vieng/Luang Prabang route is more expensive than the rest of the country, although the entire country is still a great deal.

  • Hot/cold, wet and dry: You will not be able to travel happily by road to the north and south of the country in the wet season, but high rivers make river travel possible at and after this time of year.

  • Money: There are several ATMs in Vientiane, but count on none in the rest of the country even those they are very slowly creeping in as Laos continues to develop. Best to use ATMs in Thailand to get USD or THB cash and take this across if needed. USD traveller cheques fine in big cities. The Laotian Kip (currency) comes in small notes and takes some carrying if you change a lot at once

  • Getting around:

    • Boats Moored on the River, Luang PrabangWater: Fast boats (aka. speed boats - tiny lightweight craft equipped with powerful motors that literally skid across the water at high speeds with you wedged into a small space) give you the thrill of your life, but on reflection are not that safe, but amazing on say the Nam Ou river if there is enough water. Note these are becoming less common as the government looks to phase then out due to environmental concerns. Slow boats are more relaxed, but a little too noisy to really relax. Most travellers will go from Chiang Khong in Thailand via the border town of Houai Xai downstream with one or a combination of these boats.

    • Land: Any boat is vastly more preferable than land transportation. However, there are some okay buses and good roads with great improvements in the last few year, but off the beaten track getting around by road can be very hard work with 80% of roads unpaved. River transport is such a blessing in many cases where alternatives might only be the back of a truck. Like in Cambodia, travelling in Laos is hard work if getting off the beaten track.

    • Air: State carrier Lao Airlines has a monopoly on domestic flights and not the best safety history. The airline operates dual pricing foreigners or fares can be expensive. Nonetheless it has a good network is by far the fastest, easiest and most comfortable way of reaching many parts of the country.

  • Guide book: Rough Guide. For a full list of regional guides and other reading please click here.

  • People vibe:

    • Locals: Some foreigner pricing, but generally friendly

    • Other travellers: As with Cambodia, some want-to-be hard core travellers, generally the normal 'Banana Pancake' crowd. Less older and package tourists than in Thailand.

  • Tourist factor: 8/10 to 4/10, depending on how much punishment your arse/butt takes getting somewhere

  • Accommodation: Some nice places, often basic, but very cheap

    • Hot water: Limited, only in bigger towns

    • Average cost: US$7-10, more expensive in Vientiane

  • Communications: Internet in Vientiane, Luang Prabang and Vangviang

  • Media: Limited, but developing all the time (by the time you read this, the way things are going there will be a 10 screen cinema complex in Vangviang).

  • Food: Brilliant food in Lunag Prabang, god bless the French for bringing their bread and little triangles of cream cheese. Food a little limited to rice outside major backpacker centres

    • Vegetarians: Generally fine

  • Hassle and annoyance factor: None

    • Women alone: Fine, beware of Buddhist and local customs

  • Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: Opium and grass readily available in most of the country. Great beer, but do us all a favour and don't buy the t-shirt

  • Rating: 6.5/10

 * Miss at your peril: Northern Laos/Vietnam - 'Highlight of Independent Travel'

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» Vietnam Vietnam, by David et Magalie - http://www.everystockphoto.com/photo.php?photo_id=3283

  • Intro: Me love you long time - who wouldn't want to go to Vietnam having heard so much about it and seeing it so many times in movies and/or growing up with the country as typifying a world beyond our access or understand? Nonetheless what the average traveller will find is quite removed from the expectation. Vietnam is full of backpacker crowds and package tours, running up and down a tourist trail which is difficult to get off (since the country is so thin). Distances are great and apart from the far North, attractions aren't that great, but you can easily relax and have a good time - if you don't mind being part of a production line - because travel is damn easy, with cheap pre-arrange tours for everything. Expect attempts to rip you off, a tough time getting off the tourist trail and loads of tourists rather than tracer fire, opera blasting from helicopters and the smell of napalm in the morning.

    • Highlights: Northern Hill tribes (great motorbike adventures), Hoi An, Ha Long Bay, Hanoi plus picking up cheap counterfeit books, guidebooks, CDs and tailored clothing.

    • Lowlights: Hassle, crowds, foreigner pricing, poverty, the tour factor (see below), distances and fixed tourist trail. Some war sights like the DMZ can be very boring if you have only a limited interest.

  • Visa strategy: You no longer have to specify entry and exit points as older guidebooks state and the process is now much easier than it use to be. Different embassies vary in regulations and complexities, the best place to pick up your visa at time of writing is in Phnom Penh. Vietnam now has a limited visa on arrival facility but - it has to be arranged in advance; is restricted to air arrivals at Danang, Hanoi, and Ho Chi Minh (Saigon); and additional service fees (which may need to be paid in advance) appear to be inevitable. The 5-day visa-free stay scheme announced 2002 seems to have been wishful thinking and have never heard it used.

  • Typical tourist trail: One way or the other: Ho Chi Minh City - formerly Saigon (tunnels and delta), Na Trang, Hoi An, Hue, Hanoi and sometimes the far north. A full tour (getting from top to bottom including the delta and far north) takes at least a month

  • Hot/cold, wet and dry: Hill areas (Sa Pa and high northern areas) get cold in winter, coastal areas can be very wet and the delta can experience flooding

  • Costs: Pretty good value for money, if you stick to the tourist oriented transport and avoid foreigner priced transport. Consider US$20-40 per day

  • Money: ATMs are plentiful in Hanoi and HCMC, with ATMs upon arrival at both international airports and usually found every 3-5 blocks within the central parts of the cities.  Most other tourist destinations have at least one ATM, but for destinations off-the-beaten path (rual areas away from major cities), it is recommended to bring sufficient cash with you. (More info on www.vietnamtravelguide.com).

  • What to take: Some patience to deal with the Vietnamese.

  • Getting around:

    • Road: Buy hop-on-hop-off bus tickets at bargain prices (like US$25-35) for Saigon to Hanoi. As much as you may hate the idea of this, it's the way to go as you will stick with a set route anyway and public transport is such a pain - of course go with a good, established company. Roads from Hon Ai up are bad and in the north are terrible. Distances are large, you will probably need to travel overnight (buses get cold). Do not under estimate the time you will need to spend travelling if sticking to land. When tackling the far north the hiring of private transport is the best option, whether a 4WD and driver arranged in Hanoi shared in a group or for the more adventurous a motorbike.

    • Trains: Certainly more expensive than buses, but now foreigner pricing free, trains are undoubtedly the most comfortable way to travel overland in Vietnam. There is one major train line in Vietnam, the 1723-kilometer trunk between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, on which the Reunification Express runs. HCMC to Hanoi in one go is more than 30 hours. Purchase tickets early (as few days if possible and watch holiday seasons) as there is high demand notably for the better AC Soft or hard sleeper. Tour companies and travel agents tend to buy all tickets up early. However, unsold tickets can often be bought last minute from people hanging around at the station or travel agent (but some scams) - a train is rarely sold out for real. There are also shorter routes from Hanoi leading northwest and northeast, with international crossings into China. One of the most popular of the shorter routes is the overnight train from Hanoi to Lao Cai for Sapa which you can put a motorbike on.

    • Air: The fastest way to travel the distance of this long country. From from Hanoi to HCMC will take about 2 hours by plane. The major domestic airlines in Vietnam are Vietnam Airlines and the cheaper, book on-line, Pacific Airlines.

    • Water: There are hydrofoil services in some places - from Ha Long to Mong Cai on the border with China, from Hai Phong to Cat Ba and from Ho Chi Minh City to various destinations in the Mekong, for example. A recent innovation is a well-appointed 26-cabin cruise boat that plies up and down the Bassac River between Phnom Penh and Ho Chi Minh City.

Tours:

FlagThe Vietnamese are darn organized when it comes to making money from tourists and there are a whole host of tours available for everything you could ever want to do. These on the whole are good and brilliant value. You just have to get use to this tour group mentality as it is normally cheaper and a hell of a lot easier than doing the same thing yourself. Shop around, after a day trying to choose a trip to Halong Bay you'll probably failed to see the difference between tours and go with the cheapest, say at $30. That would get you three excellent days, two nights, nice hotel and the knowledge you'd be on the same boat as many travellers paying more. Delta tours are fairly boring with a lot of driving, so are DMZ tours. Party boat trips in Na Trang are fun if you have the stamina. For the far north it is better to spend the extra to hire a car and driver or motorbike rather than take a tour. Another good tip (this goes for buses too) is to go to the agency you booked at rather than letting the bus pick you up at your hotel. That way you won't get picked up last and have to cram yourself in right at the back - excellent advice when roads are bumpy.

 

E-mailed comment:

c Disappointing in places. Easy Rider trips from Dalat, although expensive are really good fun and a great insight into the country. This is the only way I managed to get of the tourist trail. Best way to eat and drink is on the street, just look for child size chairs. In general, Vietnam is a very safe place, with low levels of violent crime and a low threat of terrorism or other dangerous activities. Theft, however, is becoming increasingly common, and visitors should take precautions, especially with mobile phones, digital cameras, and other small electronics which are easily “misplaced.” Vietnam travel guide website: www.guidevietnam.com

 

[i] Another good resource is the original Peter M. Geiser Vietnam travel FAQ and VNTraveler

  • Guide book: Rough Guide. For a full list of regional guides and other reading please (including war reading material) click here

  • People vibe:

    • Locals: In Saigon and the south, hassle is less, no is taken for an answer and locals are polite. However this is contrasted in the north where voices can be less welcoming. Very tourist weary feel in many places.

    • Other travellers: Loads of tourists from all walks of life.

  • Tourist factor: 8/10

  • Counterfeit goods: Buy music and software in Hanoi, books in Saigon and clothes in Hoi An

  • Communications: Easy internet, post comparatively expensive

  • Accommodation: Accommodation can be fairly grim concrete block type cells, but nicer rooms can be found in many parts of the country.

    • Hot water: Fine in major cities

    • Average cost: Under $10

  • Media:

    • Books: Huge choice of cheap pirated copied books in Saigon (buy them there, the choice is limited at best in the north). Many great books on the war, highly recommended are 'Dispatches' by Michael Herr and 'Chicken Hawk' by Robert Mason

    • TV: Cable in mid-range hotels, cafes play latest release films

  • Food: Loads of excellent choices. The 'Banana Split' Cafe in Na Trang highly recommended, but which one? (The lack of copyright law in Vietnam sometimes makes life complicated). Marvelous fruit and variety, delicious Dragon fruit alone makes a visit worthwhile.

    • Vegetarians: Lots or seafood. It is recommendable to memorise "no meat" in Vietnamese. Count on a diet comprised of baguettes, fried rice with vegetables and fried noodles with vegetables. In Saigon in the touristy area there is a street with many (good and cheap) vegetarian restaurants. In Hanoi vegetarian restaurants are more fancy and expensive.

  • Hassle and annoyance factor: Difficult in the flustered south, a real pain in the north. Crossing the road is great fun and a good challenge for the day!

    • Women alone: Fine

  • Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: Party boats in Na Trang top even the 'all you can drink' Zambezi trips in Victoria Falls. If excess is your thing don't miss taking one. On the illegal side, grass as the US army discovered is normally available.

  • Rating: 6/10

* Miss at your peril: Northern Laos/Vietnam - 'Highlight of Independent Travel'

 

The Ho Chi Minh City Must Sees - (Article courtesy of agoda, with sponsored links)

While everyone knows these days that Vietnam's capital is called Ho Chi Minh City, it's a little harder to romanticize about a man with the goatee than a melodic image of "Miss Saigon" in her ao dai and conical hat. But as all visitors in Vietnam are acutely aware, Ho Chi Minh City is a town of sharp contrasts and conflicts. It is historically charming yet developing rapidly; graceful yet sometimes garish; a city where friendliness abounds but you can be easily fooled. All in all, it is a fascinating metropolis of many different flavors – all of which must be experienced. And the best aspect of all, is that within the town itself most attractions are within walking distance to each other.

Five things you have to do:

  • Chow in Cholon. Cholon is undoubtedly the most hectic part of Saigon. Otherwise known as Chinatown, Cholon is the economic heartbeat of the city where opium dens, prostitutes and gambling once converged (although these days, Saigon's Fifth District is a deeper shade of red). It's a place to sup on soups in the street and soak up the lively atmosphere. Also, the absolute must-see of Cholon is Benh Thanh Market, a bazaar that can be as bizarre as it is exciting to the foreign eye. Watch locals haggle over the price of live chickens and rice, while you consider buying a funnel-shaped rice hat (don't be such a cliché) and postcards.
  • Visit the Cu Chi Tunnel Complex  OK, so this isn't exactly in town but it's only a two-hour drive from the city and well worth the distance. The tunnels comprise an elaborate underground maze created by the Viet Cong during the war. Here, soldiers worked, ate, planned, lived their lives entirely in a space barely a meter high and no more than 80cm wide. Visitors can crawl into the tunnels to get a feel of what it would've been like to exist in this surreal subterranean labyrinth. Tours through and around the tunnel sections open to the public are guided – a necessary element due to existing booby traps and these, which are also on display for foreigners to see, consist mostly of gruesome-looking contraptions with long metal spikes.
  • Manage some Museum Fatigue   Like every capital city, Saigon has its fair share of museums and galleries. The first on the list should be the War Remnants Museum, formally named "the Museum of Chinese and American War Crimes". While the latter name is straight to the point, it (unsurprisingly) turned away the tourists and was thus revised to its current, more euphemistic title. However, priceless signage such as the label which reads: "Some Pictures of US Imperialist Aggressive War Crimes in Vietnam” can still be found inside. Next on the must-see museums list (before that museum fatigue starts kicks in) is the Reunification Palace. Ever since Communist tanks burst through the gates of the Presidential Palace on April 30, 1975, the building has become a symbol for the South Vietnamese government.
  • Visit Vung Tau Once the premier beach retreat of Vietnam, Vung Tau is a long-standing port that still attracts many visitors with its sandy shores and tranquil waters – albeit they're not as pristine as the old days. Only 75 miles from Saigon, the peninsula of Vung Tau offers five beaches, each with unique qualities. Bai Trouc is well-developed and has an array of restaurants, shops and hotels, while Vong Nguyen is popular among surfers. Bai Dua is the quietest beach and located only a mile from the city center while the nearby Bai Dau at Lon Mountain is also less crowded. The longest stretch of beach can be found at Bai Sau.
  • Temples and tombs One of Saigon's foremost places of worship is the Giac Lam Pagoda which resides near Dam Sen park. Its architecture dates back to the 19th Century Nguyen Dynasty (it is the oldest Pagoda standing in the country) and there are over 150 statues within the compound. At the entrance, decorous, austere tombs sit next to the looming Goddess of Mercy, Quan Thew Am Bo Tat. Another classic sightseeing must is the Notredame Cathedral whose towers once dominated the cities' skyline. For those who worship a different kind of god (fashion) the cathedral is in close proximity to Saigon’s premiere shopping district, Dong Khoi Street, the Vietnamese equivalent of New York's 5th Avenue.

#Article courtesy of agoda, with sponsored links. Please note views and recommendations are not those of travelindependent.info

 

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[book]The best source of planning information is Trailblazer's 'Asia Overland'. Although the Cambodia (and some others) chapter is very out-of-date, the rest is superb. There is a new version of this book out that focuses just on South East Asia. It is a fantastic guide made up of hand drawn maps packed with great information. It's called South-East Asia: A Graphical Guide and is by the same author as Asia Overland - Mark Elliott.

[i] For a full list of planning guides, recommended guide books and reading material, please click here.

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Remember, this is only a take (an overview if you will); very few get the chance to see every inch of every country or have the time to get everyone's opinion (you are welcome and encouraged to mail in yours). Please, please if you have been anywhere recently send your comments to contribute and help keep all information fresh for future travellers. Or if you are about to head off remember this site when you return and put a few lines in an e-mail to let us know if things have changed.

 

"From a certain point onwards there is no longer any turning back. That is the point that must be reached"

Kafka

 

 

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