Northern Asia
 

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  Northern Asia

» China, (inc. Hong Kong and Tibet)

• Intro: The most populous country on earth, (although it doesn't seem anywhere near as crowded as India), encapsulating much of the mystique of the East. China has a huge pull on anyone going to Asia. Despite some great attractions, China, being the third most visited country on the planet is far from remote at must-see places. Many historic sites have long been destroyed or show no attention to preservation; residents can be less than helpful; you easily run into language problems and whatever the difficulties of Asian travel, in China they are magnified fivefold - simply buying a train ticket can be a major achievement. Coupled with vast distances China can be a let down if you expect too much. Plan your trip carefully and make tough decisions about your itinerary - you won't see it all.

  As with many of the destinations on this page, being such a large country China is difficult to summarise accurately - although without a doubt the overriding theme of the nation is concrete and, in recent years building sites. Most observe that China is at heart an extraordinary beautiful place with lakes, forests and deserts of great tranquility and remoteness, but you would be forgiven for thinking that whatever can be done to spoil it's beauty is well underway - industry, concrete, building, litter and so much more in the way of soullessness and organisation (that's progress for you). This has always been the case, but in only in recent years with racing progress, its got much worse. Okay it's not that bad everywhere and you can't complain - it's all part of the 'China' experience and as much a part of its fascinating culture as anything else. To be fair, as with Japan and India, this is what really gets you excited about China before and after a trip - just seeing and being part of such a different culture (with all that's hard to understand about it) is the essence of a trip to China and the real highlight. Those with the time and patience to get out of the Eastern cities and even to the Western reaches, will discover some stunning sights.

China is changing at an incredible pace; please double check all information, not only here, but in any guidebook.

• Typical tourist trail: Kathmandu to Lhasa or Hong Kong to Guilin (to Shanghai to Xi'an) to Beijing.

• Hot/cold, wet and dry: Will get very cold in the winter, humidity in the south can be unbearable during hot/rainy season.

• Costs: Hong Kong is expensive, Shanghai is not cheap nor are quality class train tickets over the extreme distances China presents. US$30 a day will cover you in most of the rest of the country depending on how many train tickets you buy and your comfort level. Those spending most of their time in cities, taking tours, covering large distances and wanting even a little comfort can look at about US$40-50.

• Money: Use ATMs (not Tibet, Kashgar or minor cities) and take emergency travelers cheque's and USD/Euros. If in HK, stock up on Renminbi as the exchange rate is slightly higher there.

• What to take: Cold remedy and warm clothes if travelling during the winter. It also worth taking at least a basic knowledge of a few Chinese phrases and words - e.g. Duo Shao Qian? (how much?) or shui (pronounced shway) (water).

• What to buy: A cream called Mopiko (be aware of fakes) is available and extremely helpful for stopping mosquito bites itching. You will also find many great souvenirs from latter years of communism proudly displaying the Chairman.

• Guide book: Many guides, Lonely Planet considered the best. Prices and information changes so fast most guides become out-of-date before being published.

• People vibe:

  • Locals: Can be a little unwelcoming and in the worst case, a little bit hostile to travelers, although this is a cultural thing and not meant with any real malice. It takes a while to get used to very limited English and, depending on the region you visit, you might also have to get use to staring and other Chinese habits such as spitting. Having said all this, China is modernising fast and locals are becoming much more accustomed to foreigners and their behaviour than in previous years. In addition in a country the size of China you will of course find a variation in how you are treated between town, city, north, south, east and west.

  • Other travelers: Depending on where you are, you can, if off the beaten track, travel for a fair while without meeting other travelers (not fun alone), however at major sights and stops you will find the normal mix of Europeans, Australians and particularly North Americans. Expect large numbers of domestic tourists.

• Tourist factor: At major attractions, that most travelers limit themselves to - 8/10

• Accommodation: Basic and not always easy to locate. Many of the new hotels aimed at travelling businessmen that have sprung up in cities are a good choices and better value than the standard travelers haunts almost every town has. These can sometimes be a little hard to locate and have names like 'New Yield Fast Foreign Executive Centre' (and no I didn't make that up) and not always in English. Prices posted by reception or quoted are often many times higher than the real local going rate. As with most hotels don't expect much English so a few phrases to haggle with should bring the price tumbling down to a great rate for the type of rooms offered. The tip is to shop around a little outside of your guidebook recommendations and always look for a discount.

  • Hot water: Can be limited if on the cheap

  • Average cost: US$10-20

• Communications: Internet slow but widespread. International call centres in Hong Kong and other major cities.

• Media:

  • Books: Limited when in China. The lengthy novel 'Wild Swans' about life in China over several generations is an excellent read, but not when in China where it is banned.

  • TV: Limited, most 'business' aimed hotels in larger cities have TVs - CCTV 9 is in English but don't get too excited!

• Food: Not as fantastic as you might have expected, but not bad. Try to get a home cooked meal which some locals offer.

  • Vegetarians: Not a problem, make sure you know what you are ordering.

• Hassle and annoyance factor: Staring, smoking and spitting.

  • Women alone: Okay

• Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: Very cheap cigarettes. Foreign brands normally under the counter. Beer amazing value

• Rating: 7/10

» Japan

 Miss at your peril - 'Highlight of Independent Travel' - However bear in mind: Peak Japanese holiday season and cost.

• Highlights: Tokyo, Kyoto, Nara, Mt Fuji, Himeji castle, the public baths, iconic views of mount Fuji, the learning experience of a visit to Hiroshima and Nagasaki plus lots of great places off the tourist trail. In general however the real highlight is just being there and day-to-day experiences.

• Lowlights: Japan's history is full of earthquakes, fires (and arsons) and wars... few things remain from old times; most castles are reconstructed in ferro-concrete. Choose carefully the sights to visit in Kyoto as entry fees are around 500-900Y. Most of them are wonderful but some temples are not worth the entry fee and crowds plus temple 'over-load' soon take affect. Plus climbing Fuji.

• Visa strategy: Easy and free on arrival for most

• Typical tourist trail: Tokyo, Nikko, Hiroshima, Kyoto and close-by Nara.

• Dangers: Japan is pretty safe (well, maybe spending too much money).

• Hot/cold, wet and dry: Hot and humid in summer, cold in winter. Best weather in spring or autumn (and most beautiful also). Cherry blossoms (Sakura), occur around about end March / beginning of April, but vary every year and by location - dates/info. The famous parks in big cities become a frenzied hub during this time with picnics, sightseers and every blossoming tree surrounded by photo-taking Japanese. The spectacle is fascinating and beautiful, but Cherry and Plum blossoms in Japan do however look the same as anywhere else in the world they bloom.

• What to take: Very western country so standard gear. Plug adaptor and mosquito repellent may be handy, but are not really essential. Do however make sure you have clothing to suit the climates depending on the time of year you visit. It is worth noting that you will be required to remove your footwear frequently, in temples, homes, hostels, etc. and thus a good supply of socks and anything else you can do to avoid 'smelly feet syndrome' is worthwhile.

• Getting around:

  • Trains: See above.

  • Boats: Long distance ferries are good value if you have plenty of time and there are a number of useful overnight hops. There's no charge for sleeper berths in the bottom class (you sleep on a matt) and if you are lucky you can get a discount with an international student card. There are international ferries to South Korea, Russia and China. Your JR rail pass will also cover you on JR ferries (mainly short hops).

  • Buses: It should be noted that if you have a JR rail pass (see above), it is valid on the JR bus network. If you don't highway buses are cheaper than limited express trains and overnight services between major cities are comfortable and you make a good saving on the night's accommodation you don't need to pay for. Kyoto to Tokyo being the most frequently used overnight route by travellers.

  • Air: If you want to head airborne, JAL - Japan airlines and ANA airlines are the main players in the air travel industry in Japan. Many other smaller carriers are also competing with them along the most popular routes, such as Skymart and Air DO. Tokyo's Narita Airport welcomes a few domestic flights, but most domestic flights leave from Haneda (HND) to the south of the city. Similarly, while there are some domestic flights from Kansai International Airport, more use Itami (ITM) to the north of Osaka, and Kobe's airport also fields some flights. Narita to Haneda or Kansai to Itami is quite a trek, so allow at least three and preferably four hours to transfer. Chubu, on the other hand, has many domestic flights and was built from the ground up for easy interchange.

• People vibe:

  • Locals: Always nice and polite; many will do their best to help you even if they don't understand you or know what you are looking for. Although communication can be a problem, many Japanese have some knowledge of English but seem afraid to use it.

  • Other travellers: All kinds of japanophiles, not difficult to meet people if you stay in backpacker places. Typical travellers mid-30's compared to the mid-20's majority you find in much of the rest of Asia. The majority of travelers are North American and Australian.

• Tourist factor: 8/10 in Kyoto and Nara. However the big picture is in relative terms there are few foreign travellers and lots of Japanese tourists. Incredibly easy to get off the tourist track. Try to avoid the Japanese high season, particularly 'Golden Week' (first week of May).

• Accommodation: There are many budget accommodation options: hostels, backpacker hotels, love hotels, business hotels and minshukus - all starting at 2000-6000Y (at the lower end). Rooms are normally very small but very clean. Most have hard beds (futon over tatami) with harder pillows, and shared bathrooms.

Many hostels around the country are on the Hostel International (HI) network where having a HI membership offers a worthwhile saving, but in major tourist destinations many private (more travellers friendly) options have sprung up, many with more than one location around the country (J-Hoppers being a good example). Such networks are great, offering English speaking young/friendly staff, good information and many facilities. The best hostels do get booked out quickly and Japan is not really somewhere when in a big city you want to be stuck with no where to stay. So book ahead if you can, a simple phone call is all that is needed. Be aware that many hostels have a lock out during the day (a time when cleaning takes place and you cannot enter, from around 1100 to 1500) as in Western Europe. Check-in times are also normally (and inconveniently) from 15-00 to around 2200.

If you do get stuck without a place to stay many small business hotels or minshukus are available, with prices, which though are expensive, won't kill if it is an emergency. Equally capsule hotels are another cheap fall back to hostels, but not really convenient and more of an experience than something practical. Most are men only, but some do take women (although segregated).

• Hot water: No problem, you will have even a hot seat on your toilet!

• Average cost: 3000Y per person with shared bathroom. In some places this will get you a nice double, in others, only just stretch to a massive impersonal dorm. Cost does bring standards, and dorms will all have AC.

• Communications: Internet is easyish to find in big cites, priced okay and Japan is home to some of the most amazing internet cafes on the planet where you can hire your own den complete with free drinks, comic library and lightening fast PC for cheaper than the equivalent time in a hostel. Most hostels have (normally free) internet and free to use wi-fi network. International phone calls are cheap if you buy calling cards like the "Filipino Card". For local calls there are plenty of pay phones. Regarding mobile phones, global roaming might not work in Japan. It's not uncommon to see travellers stuck as their phones had worked all over the world until then. Confusion between dual band and dual mode is worth checking here.

• Health: No problems. Tap water is safe to drink.

• Media:

  • Books: Hard to find (in English), even Newsweek, Time and other English language magazines are rarely seen. Best to track down one of a few English language book stores.

  • TV: Some backpacker geared hostels may have dual TV (bilingual) available and DVD libraries, but generally speaking, forget about it.

• Food: Food is great, a real highlight and there are lots of options for the budget traveller. You can have a basic meal from 400Y, a good meal for 500-1000Y, or 2500-3500Y in a good restaurant. If your budget is suffering, you can go with instant noodles for 100-150Y or use supermarkets and cook in your hostel. Finding, choosing and ordering food is incredibly easy as you will always see plastic models of what is on offer in the window or at least a picture of every item on the menu card you can simply point to. Meals almost always come with a free drink (water or tea) so no need to splash out more for something to drink.

  • Vegetarians: Difficult for strict vegetarians as most sauces and soups contain dashi (fish stock). No problem for those who don't care about these kind of details and/or eat fish.

• Rating: 8.5/10 (less if you are unprepared for the cost or visit in mid-summer or winter).

» Mongolia

• Intro: Mongolia - other than a name that conjures up the exotic, almost a term for remote. - is a huge country, four times the size of the UK, but with a tiny population, just over 2 million, of which just under half live in the capital - Ulan Bator (commonly known as UB). The next biggest town probably isn't more than 100,000 in population. Mongolia could be seen as a 'buffer' state; it has extremely long borders with Russia to the North and China to the South. The majority of people are nomadic living in the iconic 'ger' or 'yurt', which is a white, round tent.  Most people are ethnically Khalka Mongol and Buddhist. Mongolia has become a popular side trip from Beijing and is commonly transited on the hugely popular Trans Mongolian express (one route of the Trans-Siberian) which runs from Moscow to Beijing. It's hard work travelling in Mongolia; it can be far from welcoming and bleak in every form. The romanticism the name brings to mind is often gone before one leaves the train station. 

  • Highlights: Fantastic people, especially in the countryside. Interesting landscapes & interesting culture. Gobi Desert and Hovsgol Lake stand out (note there are various different spellings of Hovsgol – LP calls it ‘Khovsgol'). Traditional music performances in Ulan Bator also well worth seeing.

  • Lowlights: Transport is tiring and hard work. Food can be monotonous and not ideal for vegetarians.

• Visa strategy: Almost all travellers require a visa which costs around US$50. Getting a 30 day visa is relatively painless at a Mongolian embassy such as the one in Beijing or Moscow (or a consulate such as the one in Irkutsk (Russia) or Erlian). A visa will take a day or two to issue, but there is sometimes the option to pay through the nose to expedited the process and get your visa in a few hours. Longer visas are available, but require an invitation letter. Better to extent the 30 day visa in Ulan Bator if needed. There are four border crossings open to foreigners, three by the Russian border and one near the town of Erlian on the border with China.

• Typical tourist trail: Most travellers pass through the country by rail, stopping only in Ulan Bator. Main destinations apart from Ulan Bator are the Gobi Desert, Hovsgol Lake and Karakorum. Both the Gobi Desert and Hovsgol trips will require a week to cover, starting from Ulan Bator. Karakoram is closer to the capital city and can be covered in a shorter time. Here, Genghis Khan located the capital of his empire. The Buddhist monastery Erdene Zuu is located on the same site. Few visit the Muslim region in the west, inhabited by Kazakhs and Mongolians. It will take a few days to get there by road from Ulan Bator, but flights also are available. There are a few Buddhist monastic sights near Ulan Bator that can be visited as day trips. Another frequent excursion from Ulan Bator is to stay overnight in a traditional yurt, organised with ease though local tour companies.

• Hot/cold, wet and dry: Extremes of climate. The winter can go to –40C. You need to know what you're doing if you visit from October onwards. First snow-falls are late September, early October. Coldest month is January. The summer is pleasant and warm, although mosquitoes are a pain in May and June. A remarkably sunny country, enjoying 250 sunny days a year, often with clear cloudless skies. Some rain in July and August.

• People vibe:

  • Locals: Very decent and friendly, hospitable in both the countryside and Ulan Bator. I was invited for lunch a number of times. Very few in the countryside speak English. Its well worth learning a few words of Mongolian, like the types of food.

  • Other travellers: Generally speaking, people who visit Mongolia are keen travellers and are prepared for a bit of hardship. The only annoying ones are those that stop in Ulan Bator for a day on their journey between China and Russia, and this is only annoying because they really should stay longer. There are a lot of Israelis, and quite a few Japanese and Russians. A few Americans, but they are more often with NGOs than backpacking.

• Tourist factor: There are backpackers in UB, but far from overrun. Quite a few NGOs / peace corp.

• Accommodation: The architecture of Ulan Bator has a strong Soviet influence. There are plenty of big apartment blocks built in the 1950s. A number of local entrepreneurs own apartments that serve as youth hostels for backpackers. These can be found quite easily. There's a chap called Mr. Bold who runs a lot of backpacker accommodation - he owns several apartments. He is a good guy, by and large. There are a number of other smaller operators - Lonely Planet has all the details. Outside Ulan Bator there are lodgings in other major towns, but more likely you'll be in the countryside staying in a tent or yurt.

  • Hot water: Freely available in Ulan Bator, thanks to excellent waterworks put in place by the Russians years ago.

  • Average cost: Between $10 and $15, more or less. Can also pay per bed rather than room.

• Communications: Internet and phone widely available in Ulan Bator.

• Food: Food may not be to everyone's taste. There are a few really good restaurants in Ulan Bator; I recall one German steakhouse that was particularly enjoyable. Ulan Bator actually has quite an international feel to it. The regular cafes there serve things like sausages, burgers, omelettes, chips. You can buy things like Bulgarian wine and Danish butter cookies that aren't available in China. In the countryside, staying in tents the diet is fairly limited. Lots of cheese, also lots of dried cheese which is sort of chalky and hard. There is a delicious dairy product eaten in the countryside, difficult to explain, but basically as follows – most rural people own yaks which are milked daily. The milk is left in a pail overnight and the cream at the top slightly curdles, producing a liquid butter that is served on bread. In general, very little fruit or veg, lots of bread, cheese, meat.

  • Vegetarians: Not great outside of Ulan Bator. Vegetables and fruit don't form a large part of the national diet. An apple would be a great rarity. Expect to eat lots of cheese, which in itself is nice enough.

• Hassle and annoyance factor: Very few touts, lots of poverty in Ulan Bator and there are petty criminals at work so watch out for pick-pockets, especially in larger markets.

  • Women alone: Plenty of girls travelling alone and few reports of any problems.

• Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: Fair few nightclubs, Mongolians are big into vodka and lots of beer. Cheap Russian cigarettes, not very nice. Also the international brands in Ulan Bator. The local drink is fermented mares milk.

• Rating: 8/10

"Life is something that happens to you while you're making other plans.”

Margaret Millar

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