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[i] Some things you might want to know in the way of backpacking, budget travel country specific advice, tips and info for: South East Asia (SE Asia) - Indonesia, Malaysia, Myanmar (Burma), Philippines, Singapore and Thailand.

For Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam - see the Indochina page.

This is where most backpackers start and for good reason. There's plenty to see/do, life's fun, cheap, easy and fairly safe. There's however something clichéd about the region and many grow tired of the crowds while a certain type of backpacker keeps coming back. Nonetheless, miss the likes of Thailand's beaches, Angkor and the Philippines at your peril.

Fishing boat, beach, Thailand

» It is worth looking, if you have not already, at the example layout to see the guidelines each section of information is based on - or for other travel advice and site home head for http://travelindependent.info

?  Also see: Thai Train System Explained

What follows are only basic snapshot summaries. If you have decided these are some of the countries you want to visit and need more planning information then you are strongly recommended to complement what you find here with a planning guide. Trust us, it will make life much easier. If you are set on going and need a guidebook or reading material please see a list of recommended guides/books here (go on, have a look!). All guides/books can be viewed in more detail and click-through purchased with Amazon in the UK, US or Canada. Plus shopping through the site is a good way to say thank you (if you have been helped out); to see why click here.

 

 

»  South East Asia

 

» Cambodia - See Indochina page

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» Indonesia

  • Borobudur StupaIntro: Indonesia represents an enormous area to explore, with most travellers focusing only on small parts. Its islands offer fabulously varied scenery, from volcanoes to idyllic beaches and desert. This is one of the most rewarding of all Asian destinations, but with some 17,500 islands (the world's largest archipelago) too little time and too much travel could turn your trip into a miserable stressful race between islands with some very shitty roads (and drivers).

    • Highlights: Central Sulawesi, Eastern Indonesia, Dragons and Orangutans, scope to explore plus trekking/beach opportunities. Dragons at Rinca rather than Komodo. And of course the Borobudur stupa in Central Java

    • Lowlights: Java, Jakarta, Medan and most of Bali (unless you like to party).

  • Visa strategy: The Indonesian Government requires nationals from many countries to purchase a tourist visa on arrival at one of the main air or sea ports. A 7-day transit visa on arrival (at pretty much all come common entry points) costs around US$10 and a 30-day visa costs US$25 per person (better to have the cash on you, in exact change US$). If you are not arriving at one of the main points of entry you will need to obtain a visa prior to travel. The cost in advance varies depending on the country of application, but seems to be about $60US depending on where you apply.

Dangerous?

Hot Topic: As many do now know, Indonesia is the world's most populous Muslim nation and many seem to be put off exploring since the two Bali bombings and other incidents such as an attack on a café in the popular Kemang area of southern Jakarta. Don't be. With the same commonsense that needs applying everywhere, there is no problem (with terrorism at least; there are always dangers wherever you are, from buses, boats etc). At the time of the bombings, some governments advised not travelling to Bali (even South East Asia) - crazy advice. Not spending any time in Kuta or Jakarta is better advice - bomb or no bomb! No tourism will literary kill many parts of this nation. Islamic militants attacked the café because it was serving alcohol during the Muslim holy month - this has raised concerns about travel to the capital during Ramadan.

Indonesia has suffered great upheaval in the last five or so years - everything from peaceful demonstrations to armed conflict. However, the situation in Indonesia is often exaggerated by western media, making it seem like the whole place is in turmoil. Areas of Central Sulawesi, Aceh, Papua and Maluku have all experienced unrest; but outside these areas life is simple. Still it pays to keep in touch with the news when in the country - especially in Aceh.

  • Dangers: There has been political unrest in the past and most Indonesians are a little crazy (just look at the way they drive). Best stay away from Aceh, unless you are happy with the current situation, some parts of Maluku, especially Ambon, and some parts of Sulawesi, which are experiencing civilian unrest.

  • Hot/cold, wet and dry: Sumatra is right on the equator - so often hot or wet, but mountains can be quite cold and snow can be found on peaks in central Irian Jaya. The seasonal variations between wet and dry are a little varied for different parts of the country and you are best to consult a more detailed guide book, but generally speaking travel is fine all year round and wet season downpours last only a few hours. Even the driest periods seem damp and humid in most parts.

  • Typical tourist trail: From Singapore to Bali and Lombok

  • Getting off the beaten track: With such a vast area, getting off the beaten track is easy given the right amount of time and money. One such area is the Bird's Head Peninsula of West Papua, the Indonesian part of New Guinea (aka Irian Jaya), for which Marc Todts has contributed an excellent summary - click here to see it.

  • Costs: Recent troubles ensure the Rupiah keeps falling; prices vary from island to island but are always reasonable. $25 a day is no problem

  • Money: ATMs in major cities and islands, take supply of cash out to further islands with you. In Kuta (Bali) exchange rip-off is very frequent and for that reason it is best to use your ATM card

  • What to buy: Sarongs and cheap surf-type clothing in Kuta (Bali)

  • Getting around: Getting around depends on the island. On major islands such as Java, it's a breeze. Off the beaten track in Kalimantan or West Papua there are few roads.

    • In general, buses on land, some good, others not so. Between backpacker centres there is a well developed network of tourist buses. Prices are many times greater than local buses, but still cheap and save a lot of time and hassle. However with a reduction in tourist numbers over the past few years, many services have been suspended.

    • Train services available only in Java and parts of Sumatra. Several trains run between Jakarta and Surabaya. Some trains are comfortable (AC sleepers), others not so and prices for different classes and trains vary enormously.

    • Boats to get from island to island. Since you have to cross water, travel can be time consuming. PELNI, the state owned shipping company has numerous vessels, operating on about two week loop schedules. Ships are AC and first class cabins have TV and privacy. Timetables on line. There are places on yachts, normally heading from Bali to Komodo. Off the beaten track, inter-island exploring can be expensive and time consuming especially in Maluku (spice islands).

    • Air, considering the difficulties and expense with getting far afield, internal flights become a very attractive option.

  • Guide book: Lonely Planet. For a full list of regional guides and details on the LP, please click here.

  • People vibe:

    • Locals: Vary from island to island, for example (despite huge numbers of tourists) natives in Bali and Lombok are very pleasant. However, it is a far cry from Java, indeed much of the hassle you get in Bali comes from Javan immigrants. Generally friendly and welcoming.

    • Other travellers: If you are a European, imagine Ibiza, if you're an American, imagine Cancún. This is how many Australians see Bali (or used to). Outside Bali, typical South East Asian travellers. In many parts of Indonesia you will find yourself happily alone.

  • Tourist factor: Kuta in Bali is pretty bad - 9/10, most other areas 7/10 - 5/10

  • Accommodation: Accommodation can be basic on remoter islands. You can also get in some very nice empty hotels in Bali at little cost if you want a treat.

    • Hot water: Sometimes a problem

    • Average cost: As little as US$3, average US$8

  • Communications: Internet on most main islands

  • Media:

    • Books: Limited bookshops in Jakarta and Kuta

    • TV: In more expensive hotels. Movies played in restaurants and bars in tourist areas

  • Food: Very basic (plates of fried rice) to very developed (McBali burger in Kuta)

    • Vegetarians: Fine

  • Hassle and annoyance factor: Can be hard work with tons of hassle in many places especially in Bali ('You want transport?' calls can drive you mad). More relaxed off the beaten track.

    • Women alone: Normally okay, be careful and remember this is a Muslim nation. Mild harassment is common, but not a major problem. It's easy to say you are married and dress a little conservatory.

  • Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: Depending on island, soft drugs easily available, although in the likes of Kuta (Bali) a little too easy and questions are raised as to just how safe it is buying off the street. In addition, magic mushrooms can be found in the wet season if that's your bag.

  • Rating: 7/10

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» Laos  - See Indochina page

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» Malaysia

  • Intro: Malaysia (coupled with Singapore) is one of the most pleasant, hassle-free countries to visit in South-East Asia. It can be described as buoyant and wealthy with a cultural infusion of Malay, Chinese, Indian and indigenous groups that you just don't get in Thailand. The peninsular has good transport, jungle, beaches, culture and is a good chance to escape some of the Thailand crowds. Most travellers zip through, which is why others say that it is SE Asia's hidden jewel (although others might label it as dull after a long stay in Thailand/Indochina). East Malaysia (Sabah and Sarawak) is the Borneo travellers speak of and is much more adventurous and fun. Malaysia is fairly developed and easy to travel in but nowhere as exotic or cheap as the likes of Indonesia or Thailand. Most visitors tend to stick to the big city lights of Kuala Lumpur (KL) or the colonial Cameron Highlands Hill Stations. However, the island of East Malaysia offers the best of Malaysia with wildlife, caves, longhouses and Mt Kinabalu.

    • Highlights: Islands of Perhentian, Kecil (small) considered better than the Besar (big) - however both now becoming big touristic areas with package accommodation and so on. A trek in Taman Negara National Park, Niah Caves (East Malaysia), and climbing Mount Kinabalu (East Malaysia)

    • Lowlights: Penang, less fun than Thailand. Some find Sabah not challenging enough (or as they expected) and overcrowded in places. Many island resorts have priced backpackers out or are trying to.

  • Petronas Towers, KL, MalaysiaVisa strategy: Free on arrival. Most Western nationalities can enter Malaysia without a visa, and are normally issued 30, 60, or 90 day entry permit stamps.

  • Typical tourist trail: A dash from Thailand to Singapore. Normally taking in a national park (jungle train ride), a beach stop in Penang and the capital - KL. More and more travellers are flying to East Malaysia on the island of Borneo.

  • Hot/cold, wet and dry: Malaysia like most of SEA is hot and humid all year.  It's best to avoid the November to January rainy season on Peninsula Malaysia's East coast if you want to enjoy the beaches, but general travel is fine. The time to see turtles on the east coast is between May and September.

  • Guide book: Any, not really vital unless off the beaten track. For a full list of regional guides and other reading please click here.

  • Costs: $30-40 per day, normally good value, just not as cheap as Thailand or Indonesia. Time in big cities and beach resorts and increase your need to spend.

  • Money: ATMs plentiful, but limited in East Malaysia. Credit card advances normally commission free and travellers cheques can normally be exchanged for a better rate than cash. Getting money off the beaten track on islands is tricky and it's worth stocking up before heading out.

  • Getting around: Good buses, roads and trains, some routes (jungle railway) worth seeing. Of buses, there are three basic types, non-AC state, non-AC interstate and AC express. Finding a bus going your way is normally easy, but most stop often on route. AC express are the fastest. Non-AC are good if you need to get on and off (i.e. a bit of spontaneous exploring). On trains students are entitled to a 50% discount making the fare comparable to buses. Ten or thirty day rail passes can be bought, but must be purchased outside the country. Both trains and buses make international connections to Thailand and Singapore with ease.

    • Malaysia is also one of the only places in SEA where renting a car is a great idea and not too expensive.

    • The Jungle Railway is a daily eastern line service which stops at every station (every 15-20 min or so) between Tumpat (close to the Thai border) and Gemas. It's 3rd class only so no air-con and no reservations, and has a tendency to linger in stations while other regular trains overtake. This service is most popular to travel to Taman Negara National Park (Jerantut) or the Perhentian Islands (closest station to Kota Bharu is Wakaf Bahru). It's a great name, and you see a lot of jungle, but less than when you are actually in the jungle itself.

    • Getting to East Malaysia (Borneo) is also easy and sometimes flying is cheaper than the normal road/water combinations.

  • People vibe:

    • Locals: You notice instantly that Malaysians are a lot more diverse and less open than their Thai neighbours. In the east, interesting tribes.

    • Other travellers: Typical backpacker types. Many older travellers.

  • Tourist factor: 7/10

  • Accommodation: You can find a cheap bed almost anywhere (except resort islands that have gone very up market). In tourist/transit bus and train stations, touts come with a photo and map of the guesthouse they represent. On beaches, Thailand style A-frame huts are hard to find and most accommodation is more expensive and aimed at package tourists. If you want an ultra cheap time on a picture perfect developed beach, head to the Philippines, Indonesia or Thailand. Nevertheless quality does make up for the higher prices in many instances.

    • Hot water: Fine, limited in jungle areas and ultra cheap places.

    • Average cost: $15-20

  • Communications: Widespread Internet

  • Media: New book shops in very civilised KL, no real traveller scene, so limited second hand books, but plenty first hand.

  • Food: Normally pretty good, standard fare.

    • Vegetarians: Fine, good variety

  • Hassle and annoyance factor: Limited

    • Women alone: Not really a problem

     

  • Rating: 6/10

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» Myanmar (Burma)

  • Intro: Asking questions about Burma on newsgroups several years back would have had you shouted down on ethical grounds. Now more and more people are discovering one of Asia's hidden jewels - it's only hoped they are doing it responsibly. Burma is a land of wonders, gentle culture and welcoming smiles, but before you go make sure that you are well aware of the situation there and how your visit may prolong it. The Lonely Planet (unlike the Rough Guide, who believe the disadvantages of travel outweigh the advantages and thus ignore the country) has an excellent introduction in their guide to Myanmar regarding the merit and demerits of visiting. Often quoted is that isolating a country and starving its population of income in the hope they will have less to lose and revolt, is a dangerous and almost sickening policy. Many will wonder if all those who call for a total travel boycott rather than responsible tourism Aung San Suu Kyiwill visit China (occupying Tibet), Israel (occupying the West Bank and Gaza), France (nuclear testing in the Pacific) or even America and the UK (where do we start there!). However the argument regarding tourism and the support it lends to one of the world's most brutal dictatorships as opposed to its many possible positive effects is highly complex. You are left to your own decision (this article and others are worth reading).

    • Highlights: Bagan (Pagan)*, the people and 'removed from the west' culture. Getting off the tourist trail *

    • Lowlights: Government travel restrictions, ignorant package and other tourists (on MTT tours)

  • Temples of BaganTypical tourist trail: Yangon (Rangoon), Mandalay, Bagan (Pagan), Inle Lake and back to Yangon

  • Dangers: If you can get there successfully (restricted area), the Shan state has Burmese and Thai Guerrillas present. Watch out for the Burmese new year (March-April) - not only will you be sprayed with water, but everything grinds to a halt and transport gets booked solid. There are numerous other restricted areas away from the tourist heartland of which permits to visit can be applied for in Rangoon at the MTT office.

  • Hot/cold, wet and dry: Hot or wet all year round. It is well worth planning your trip to avoid the worst of the heat (March to May). October to February would be best, Yangon is pleasant, in the interior it can get a little cold during night at higher altitude.

  • Costs: Admission fees which are foreigner priced add up (and btw go on the whole directly to the government - see right) and so do long distance taxi rides which are useful if you need to cut down on travel time and increase comfort - but on the whole it's generally cheap. $25-35 per day

  • Tourist factor: On the beaten track 7-8/10, off it 3/10. Burma has quite a compact circuit and you should not expect to be alone (other backpackers and many tour groups) on the Rangoon-Manadaly-Bagan-Inle-Rangoon loop.

  • What to take: Some locals appreciate foreign English magazines as these are hard to get and expensive.

 

Getting there & around:

Getting around: Myanmar Air internal flights are known to be a little dodgy to say the least (about 3 of these old Russian twin-props crash a year). Buses are generally okay for the main route from Yangon to Mandalay, but generally travel during the night. Getting south or west of Rangoon or to the far north is difficult and will require some serious adventure, normally riding in trucks. To avoid very bumpy and windy buses or pick-up truck rides, split the cost of a taxi, between four. Boat travel is available from Bagan to Mandalay or vice versa. There are trains, but service is bad and foreigner pricing funds the regime and make buses better value.

Getting there: Generally a flight from Bangladesh or Bangkok. Almost all land borders are closed (Bangladesh, Laos, India), are open only to the immediate area (Thailand) or require permits to cross (China/Tachilek) - essentially this is a fly-in, fly-out destination. Most people loop Yangon and back, but since there are flights out of the country both from Yangon and Mandalay it's better to start in one and finish in the other to cut down on travel. Myanmar Airways International (MAI) has started operating the Delhi-Yangon sector thrice a week.

It's now possible to go by road from Tachilek (opp Mae Sai) to Kengtung. Permits are not needed, just the full visa. Getting to Taunggyi and on to Mandalay on via this means is open to which report you read - knowing Burma, I wouldn't bank on doing it - this is the Shan State and to leave the country this way would require a permit for the area. The road is in bad condition and the trip takes a good while and energy.

  • Communications: Internet is just starting to creep in. In Yangon if you look around hard enough you can send and sometimes receive e-mails. Much of the internet is censored. May Shan guesthouse is a good place. Latest reports are that Hotmail and Yahoo is censored at all the internet places you can find. All the places let you use their own email accounts to send emails, but not receive. This means having a hard copy of all addresses you wish to send to (or a very good memory). International phones and faxes are like hen's teeth and cost a small fortune to use.

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Entry fees & Visa:

Admission fees are everywhere in Burma and almost all funds go to the government. In places like Mandalay they soon add up. Think about what you want to see, for example, the Mandalay Palace is a non-event and the moat was reputedly drained with slave labour. Another good example is when climbing Mandalay hill (you get a good view of the palace and the town) just go as high as you can without paying an admission fee. When visiting Mingin, you could get off the boat and head right down the river bank then after 200m cut up and pay no entry fee. To re-cap: remember your entry fee money goes to the government, a lot of sights are not worth seeing and fees can be avoided (give your money to beggars or other numerous mendicant members of the population, if you have an ethical problem with dodging fees).

Visa strategy: Get your visa in Bangkok, (24 to 48 hours, easy) or see http://www.myanmarvisa.com for visa on arrival. In Bangkok the Myanmar Embassy is in the south of town at 132 Sathorn Nua Rd (boat to Tha Oriental or Tha Sathon then 15min walk east). Open Monday to Friday 8:30 to 12.00 and 14.00 to 16:30. You'll usually have the visa ready in the afternoon by 15:30. It'll cost THB800 + 3 passport photo for the basic 4 weeks tourist visa to use within a month from the date of issue. If you overstay your visa you just pay 3US$ per day of overstaying (at the airport). Do note that there are many areas off the beaten track closed to tourists; these seem to keep changing.

Money and FECs:

At time of writing there were no international ATMs and, as far as can be established, this is still the case. Best advice is to take USD/EUR cash or worse USD/EUR traveller cheques. With Burma, the best bet is to take cash for all your planned expenses.

In the past you had to change USD (around 200) into Foreign Exchange Certificates (FECs) when you enter the country - this is no longer enforced. The FEC rule has been abolished, but they are still legal tender (at less than face value) and officials may keep up pretences for all those bribes to keep flowing in. The FEC desk at the airport is now closed most of the time.

KyatWhether with USDs or FECs (if you get them, 1 FEC = 1 USD) you still need to change for Kyat (pronounced Chat), the local currency. You need to do this on the black-market since in the bank 1 USD = about 500 Kyat, on the black-market 1 USD = 1400-1500 Kyat (these figures are likely to have changed by the time you read this (they also fluctuate in the tourist season), but give a good example of the situation - this rate fluctuates daily. 100USD bills will give you the best rate.

Avoid taking US100 dollar notes that start with the serial number CB- these will often not be accepted or changed. To ensure you don't get ripped off changing, do so at a guidebook-listed guest house, like the White House in Yangon and not on the street. You may want to keep a few 1 and 5 dollar bills on your person to get from the airport to town when arriving.

  • People vibe:

    • Locals: Incredibly friendly and welcoming, hard not to feel sorrow for their situation

    • Other travellers: Some awful package tourists, others generally nice guys. In recent years much more of an overflow of the banana pancake crowd.

  • Guide book: Lonely Planet. For a full list of regional guides and other reading please click here. Remember you won't find a Burma section in the Rough Guide SEA guide. Another up to date guidebook on the market is the Insight guide to Burma, published Dec 04 (LP: Nov 05).

  • Accommodation: Many guest houses and hotels, try to find those that are locally owned. Most places are empty, so always bargain - you can get a good room for $10-$15. Prices more expensive in Yangon, some cheap rooms available.

    • Hot water: Can be a problem

    • Average cost: $20-30

  • Media:

    • Books: Some copies of Burmese Days floating around in Bagan, which is a good, if somewhat depressing read. There are, of-course, numerous great books written on the struggle for democracy in Burma, but these are best read before you go and not while there for obvious reasons. One to read on your trip might be, The Trouser People: A Story of Burma in the Shadow of the Empire. It's a mixture of a travelogue and historical book about Burma, the historical bit focusing on a explorer type called George Scott, (who brought his beloved game of football to Burma) about 100 years ago. It's a great read. The ISBN is 1582432422.

    • TV: None

  • Food: Pretty limited - hope you like rice

    • Vegetarians: Fine

  • Hassle and annoyance factor: There are plenty of things to get annoyed about, but the people themselves are never a concern. Very friendly laid back culture

    • Women alone: Fine

 

  • Rating: 8/10

* Miss at your peril: Bagan, people, culture and getting off the beaten track in Myanmar - 'Highlight of Independent Travel'

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» Philippines

* Miss at your peril - 'Highlight of Independent Travel'

  • Intro: Many say the Philippines just isn't South East Asia. Sure it's the only Catholic country in the region, an island nation (over seven thousand of them) which can't be 'just popped over the border to', English is widely spoken and of course it sits well away from a mainland and off any practical route. In fact the Philippines is every bit South East Asia - all the good bits. Great beaches, dramatic volcanoes, a colourful transport system, diverse culture, hill tribe & jungle treks and stunning rice terraces. The only thing that really sets the Philippines apart from the likes of Thailand et al. is in comparison you have the place to yourself. Forget Vietnam this, or Malaysia that, you can keep them all because when you've seen the rest, head to the Philippines. The Philippines is ultra diverse, there's something for pretty much everyone (from swimming with Whale Sharks, cheap diving and forgotten beaches to good surfing, even better nightlife, hill tribes; the list goes on). Very civilised in parts, excellent value for money (when the Peso is weak) and the fact English is widely spoken is a massive bonus for many. Sometimes it seems the only ones who have discovered these beautiful islands are the Koreans/Japanese and the sizable number of westerners who have settled and walk around with a beautiful Filipino on their arm. Alex Garland's a huge fan and so will just about anyone who's been. Mabuhay!

    • Highlights: Great nightlife (cheap beer, a young vibe and plenty of excellent live music)*, undoubtedly some of the world's best beaches (some maybe crowded, but with a little time and travel you can find your own paradise), underwater gardens (for divers and non-divers alike, the coral and many wrecks are stunning - great value scuba), trekking (there are many volcanoes to climb, but most require a good deal of planning and determination, however the highland areas of Luzon are easy to explore, stunning and relative uncrowded), fantastic food options, possibly the world's best shopping and the Latin fire stroke Asian grace of the long suffering Filipino. Other places of note: Vigan, around Banaue, Sagarda, Bohol and anywhere offering a cold San Miguel and a massage on a white beach at sunset.*

    • Lowlights: The jury's still out on Boracay, beautiful as it may be, some find it just too developed and expensive when compared to other options (still others love its choice of bars/restaurants/hotels, amazing beaches and kite surfing). Damaged coral and lengthy bus journeys where air/sea is not at option. Manila makes a good first impression on few (although it has plenty to offer). In places, like in Thailand, sex tourism is obvious and can leave a bad taste in the mouth if you come across it. Finally not all, but some boats are obviously overloaded and not for the faint hearted in rough seas.

  • Visa strategy: A three week visa is free on arrival for most nationalities. Extensions allowing you a total stay of two months cost around US$30 in Manila, Boracay, Cebu and many other places. Unless you are getting someone to organise it for you the hassle is less in the likes of Boracay or Baguio. Second extensions are more costly and regulations get stricter the longer you stay.

  • Hiking: The mountains and rice terraces of north Luzon are a worthwhile alternative to the over-commercialised hill tribe treks of northern Thailand. Banaue/Sagarda can be somewhat of a pain to reach, so you will probably want to make the most of your time there with a two to three day DIY trek. When it comes to the most attractive (and therefore most popular routes) guides can easily be arranged, but not as essential as locals will tell you the way. You will find some basic places to stay if making a loop from the spectacular terraces in Batad. Private transport is however necessary in many cases are public jeepneys are not so common on the more remote roads. Away from mountain provinces, hiking needs plenty of stamina and even more water as it's going to be hot.

  • Hot/cold, wet and dry: Hot almost all year around, there is however a highland area to escape to where, in winter months, it can get fairly chilly.

  • Typical tourist trail: Virtually all flights land in Manila (although you can enter the country in Cebu) Manila like any big Asian city has nightmare traffic and heavy pollution. From there on, there is no tourist trail as such. Many travellers will leave by air for Cebu (onto Bohol) or Boracay. Many will bus north to Baguio and onto Banaue and further north. For those on limited time the closest resort/dive site is Puerto Galera.

  • Costs: US$25-40, depending on your passion for Scuba, beer and AC rooms. Heading into rural areas you will be hard pushed to spend even half of this.

  • Money: ATMs plentiful in any large town. However don't get caught out by lack of ATMs at Clark Airport (where inter-regional budget flights sometimes land and you'll need some cash for the two-four hour bus ride to Manila) and on Palawan. Most hard currency will change in big cities and tourist enclaves. US dollars as good as Filipino Peso.

Dangers:

There are problems in the Philippines that are occasionally splashed across western media. In a very simplistic form problems emanate from the large southern island of Mindanao which is the country's largest Muslim enclave. Travel in some parts of Mindanao is safe, but anyone heading this way will of course do some careful research, since there have been several kidnapping incidents of late.

There are a number of areas on Mindanao and islands off it which should be considered no go areas. On the whole, the Philippines is safe and authorities are pro-active to tackle any threat including the few minor bombings that do happen from time to time. A quick visit to your country's foreign office site will give you much more accurate (if slightly alarmist) current info.

Whale of a time:

Swimming with Whale Sharks: Just off the coast of a small village called Donsol is one of the only places in the world where Whale Sharks can be anything close to guaranteed and where, if you want, you can swim with them (scuba not allowed). Donsol is about an hour or two south, of Legazpi, about 14hrs bus trip from Manila, or by ferry head to Masbate Town (three sailings a week from Cebu (overnight)), connect to smaller craft (1hr) and then less than 30mins to Donsol. All trips must be arranged through a government-run centre (15mins past Donsol)). They are the only people who can arrange a boat and crew. You can rent mask, snorkel, etc. You have to pay a registration fee and the whole experience will set you back something like USD$70 per person (based on two sharing - cheaper if more). The price is more likely to go up than down in the future and you are by no means guaranteed to see anything.

A trip would normally start at about 9am and run until 1pm. You don't go far off the Donsol coast. The water is far from clear and a spotter will look out for shadows on the water (a sunny day makes his job much easier). If you have only a little bit of luck you should see at least one, but you could be swimming alongside for less than 10 seconds before it dives. Visibility is not brilliant. On a really good day, you could see five or six and get a few minutes trying to keep up with one of these enormous creatures. It's a lot of money for the Philippines and you could see nothing; conversely, if you have the luck it is a fantastic and unique experience.

Scuba diving and swimming:

PADI courses and dive trips are available in all tourist beach resorts, Puerto Galera being a great place to get certified. A PADI 3/4 day course will cost between US$250-300, instruction can be found in most European languages, Japanese and Korean without problem.

Dives including equipment run at around US$25-35. Coral will look damaged in some places, but for the most part you will be spoilt, especially if you are keen to travel a little away from big resorts. There are also some great wreck dives. Diving is to the Philippines what trekking is to Nepal. It's cheap, easy and some of the worlds best.

 

 

Shop till you drop:

What to buy: The Filipino obsession with 'malling' takes many visitors by surprise. This may be one of the best performing economies in the region and the retired colonial power of America obviously has a huge influence but still the malls of Manila and a few other places are huge (even by American standards), ultra-numerous and of an amazing variety. Shops range from local clothing discounters up through great Filipino retailers like Oxygen, Bench and Human, onto international brands such as Top Shop, Gap, Zara and M&S, right up to the likes of Armani, Diesel and Ralph Lauren - to name a few. Basically everything is here and it's all excellent value.

There are several North Face stores and numerous camping shops for travel gear if you need to pick that up and many good book shops. Manila is a shopaholics paradise and it's good value. In Manila, for quality brands the Powerhouse is a first good stop, SM malls are also huge (many cities) and for one of the biggest, Manila's Mega Mall or the new Mall of Asia.

Try not being overwhelmed by any of these. Food and eating options are to die for in any of the above and ATMs are plentiful. All stores accept debit/credit cards. There is also a good range of souvenirs and for those who play the guitar, they are cheap/easy to pick up.

  • Getting around:

    • Internal flights: There are numerous flights each day to and from Manila to Cebu, Boracay, Mindanao, Palawan and many destinations north of Manila in Luzon. With destinations such as Cebu, no forward planning is necessary - you can book with ease at the airport or an agency the same day. However, at Easter and other holidays and for destinations less frequently served, such as Legazpi, booking ahead is required. As a rough guide one-way Manila-Cebu is around 15-2000Pesos (around 35-50US$). Due to the nation's topography, flying is often the only alternative to lengthy ferry journeys.

  • Buses: One of the joys of the Philippines is you don't need to use buses too much as air/ferry travel is for the most part more practical. The one exception is heading north in Luzon. The northern highlands make for slow windy going. When you do need to hop on a bus you will find an excellent network with frequent departures by many companies. Bus quality is good, but not on par with Thailand's finest.

  • Others: Jeepneys run around most towns and can be used for small hops, although FX taxis (mini-vans that leave when full) will be faster. It is possible to hire a motorbike in some places (e.g. Bohol) with limited hassle.

Taxis and drivers can be hired for longer journeys (drivers are always keen). Rates are on the most part reasonable if there are a few of you, but will seem very expensive for the Philippines. Nonetheless this is easiest option in many cases. Moto-taxis (with side-car) will ferry you around smaller towns, and taxis in larger towns all have metres that most drivers use no problems.

Ferries:

It's really not possible to cover the many sea options in a small summary like this, so this is only a quick guide. For short hops to popular destinations there are excellent larger fast boats. For cheaper travel there are slower big boats. For less popular crossings, smaller fast sealed inland waterway type boats (like Cambodian inland fast ferries) and much slower open air large out-riggers. The worst are the smaller fast boats, but they are normally only used for short crossings. These are normally close to overloaded and not really recommended for rough seas.

For longer journeys, large vessels leave overnight with several accommodation options. Normally these are (cheapest first): outside covered bunks (many together), inside AC bunks (many together, gets very cold), cabin doubles/quads and en-suite cabins. The most expensive option will be about the same as the comparative internal flight, cheaper options are great value and you arrive refreshed (well kind of). Sea conditions do, of course, vary but for the most part it's normally calm; larger boats are fairly stable. Lastly, and most the expensive option, for short trips you might like to or need to hire your own out-rigger to reach the forgotten beach/island or snorkelling trip. For the record, you can reach Malaysia by ferry, but flying makes a lot more sense. There are no passenger boats from the Asian mainland, such as Vietnam, China or Hong Kong, or from Taiwan to the Philippines, close as they might seem.

  • Guide book: Both the Lonely Planet and the Rough Guide have good looking and fairly new guides out. Neither is that good. Used the Rough Guide only a few months after it was published and it was full of errors. Still, the context chapters were excellent and the quality and accuracy was found to be better than the LP counterpart. Philippines chapters in SEA multi-country guides are very poor. See more info on Rough Guide Philippines, which is the recommended guide, click here. Using this site to buy through Amazon contributes massively to its continuation.

  • People vibe:

    • Locals: Although English is an official language, don't expect every local you meet to be 100% proficient, although the basic understanding most have and the excellent understanding many have, makes for good interaction and ease of travel. Apart from a few exceptions, the Filipinos are a very friendly and welcoming bunch in a way you would never find in the Western world.

    • Other travellers: Few of the typical SE Asian backpackers and fewer of the younger crowd or Israelis you find in Thailand. Many westerners travellers are those with Filipino wives/girlfriends/kids. Popular destination for Japanese, Taiwanese and Koreans, many of whom honeymoon or learn English here.

  • Accommodation: Accommodation and cost vary substantially. It's fair to say there is not the quantity and/or range of accommodation as in other parts of SE Asia, although there is enough. Costs tend to be slightly higher, but if you want to go basic there's plenty and the prices are rock bottom. Manila has only a few traveller-focused guesthouses, recommended highly in guidebooks and almost always fully booked. There are other options such as the good value mid-range hotels in the Manila district of Malate if you crave AC. Beach resorts have plenty of fancy accommodation geared at Japanese and Korean holiday makers. In resorts good value low/mid-range places aren't too plentiful or great value, but can be found. As with anywhere if you want AC you dearly pay for it. Off the beaten track accommodation gets much more basic, but is really cheap. As in Indonesia the mayor or village chief of small out-of-the-way places may be able to help you find a place to stay when there is no hotel.

    • Hot water: Not always in cheap places.

    • Average cost: From as little as US$5 in the north to on average US$15 to US$25.

  • Communications: Easy cheap internet access almost everywhere and some good call centres in major cities. Mobile phone use is widespread (Filipinos are text mad) so SIM cards are cheap and easy to buy. On the beaten track and major beach resorts, Wi-Fi spots are easy to find.

  • Tourist factor: 6/10, most visitors limit themselves to resorts such as Boracay.

  • Media:

    • Books: In larger towns (Cebu, Manila, Davao etc) no problem finding international magazines and a good range of books / guide books. There a several daily English language newspapers.

    • TV: In any accommodation from basic mid-range up. Excellent selection of cable channels, live sport, news and a wonderful channel that runs karaoke songs and words 24hr a day.

  • Food: For seafood eaters this may well be heaven. Food is on the whole excellent and cheap. Meat is surprisingly popular for an island nation. A huge range of different Asian cuisines are on offer; Korean and Japanese food is particularly good. In major cities, in any one of the country's many enormous shopping malls, there is a quite unbelievable range of cheap fast-food, from western international brands and local copies to Thai, Japanese and Korean gigs. Many, particularly the Asian versions are excellent.

    • Vegetarians: Fine, especially if you are pescetarian.

  • Hassle and annoyance factor: Never really a problem

    • Women alone: Never a problem, above the normal questions and minor hassle you would expect anywhere in Asia.

  • Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: San Miguel beer is drunk in great quantities, costing only slightly more than soft drinks. Smoking is not a great Filipino pastime, but cigarettes are as cheap as you would expect. There is very little drug scene simply because there are not the tourist numbers, as say in Bali or Thailand, to sustain it. Anyway with life this good who needs drugs?

  • Vice: The Philippines has somewhat of a reputation for sex trade and sex holidays. Take a walk through certain areas of any big town and it's easy to see why. However, prostitution is illegal. In reality (of course) most will end up touching rather than looking. Go-Go bars are much the same as elsewhere in the region, such as Patpong in Bangkok (but without the rooms in the back or audacious acts). Pop into any of these bars and what you will get is many gorgeous girls (many look and probably are under 18) in little dresses asking for you to buy them a drink (between $2 and $5, that's how they make their money). Girls will give you a lot of attention and continue asking for more drinks. It's obvious that - although illegal - many guys leave with girls.

 

 

  • Rating: 8.5/10

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» Singapore

  • The MerlionIntro: Singapore is really just a transit zone for backpackers, on their way to the beaches of Thailand, Malaysia, the myriad of Indonesian islands or Australia. It is also quite a bizarre place (coming from the rest of Asia); cars use their indicators and stop at crossings! There's none of that mayhem that makes travel so interesting (and at times stressful) in the rest of Asia. It is an expensive place by neighbouring country standards, but cheaper than Japan, Australia or Korea. For its size there's loads to do but, being such a small place, after a few days (unless hitting the shops big time) you'll probably want to move on. What strikes you most is the Chinese, Malay and Indian traditions that seem to blend into the city. In the morning you could be on a market stall eating noodles as in Vietnam and in another part of town find Indian temples as in Madras. Then its high tea in the best British fashion with air-con, starched linen table cloths and gliding waiters. If you want 'it's a small world' Asia without breaking too much of a sweat, here's your place.

    • Highlights: Zoos (there are two, a day one and a night one) and cleanliness. Amazing, brilliantly tasty, safe and cheap food from every Asian (or Western) cuisine you can imagine. Shopping, drinking Singapore Slings and marveling at it all while kicking back for a few days with zero hassle and everything you might need. *

    • Lowlights: Raffles, electronic goods prices not too different than home (electronics usually aren't the bargains they used to be), costs and accommodation prices.

  • Visa strategy: Free on arrival - varies 14/30/90 days depending on citizenship and/or point of entry

  • Dangers: Super-safe and mega-clean. This is one place you do not want to break the law, and they have some strange ones

  • Hot/cold, wet and dry: Very hot almost all year around - avoid the wet, humid season

  • Costs: US$35-50, depending on your alcohol consumption. Slightly less expensive than the USA and certainly western Europe, but hugely more expensive than say Indonesia

  • Money: ATMs extremely plentiful along with change places

  • Getting around: Fantastic public bus system. Trains to Malaysia, ferries to Indonesia. The MRT is one of the best metro-systems in the world and the budget airlines operating from Johor Bahru, just across the border, and from Changi airport will take you all over Asia and to Darwin (Australia) at real bargain prices (see budget airlines in the links section).

  • Guide book: Make some notes from someone else's guide or photocopy a few pages. No real need for a guidebook, other than an address of a place to stay when you first arrive. All major hostels provide great info. Local guidebooks and maps can be picked up with ease cheaply or free from tourist info places.

  • People vibe:

    • Locals: Highly multi-ethnic population, some of whom are not too jolly (Chinese). Very helpful in general, although a bit paranoid at times.

    • Other travellers: Typical SE Asian teens & backpackers on transit between Asia and other parts of the world. Plus a fair amount of older travellers stopping off between Australia and Europe and an ever increasing number of Asian tourist.

  • Tourist factor: 6/10

  • Accommodation: Within the last couple of years a few good hostels have opened around town. One such establishment is the BetelBox hostel, which is friendly, has nice areas to meet other people and offers free Internet and other nice treats. Furthermore it is located in the Katong/Geylang area which is much more interesting than overrated Little India. Accommodation is not ultra cheap, but of a high standard. In little India, Ali's Nest is the place to stay. Usually the standard of the new hostels is very high, often as good as in Australia or New Zealand and definitely better than any cheap place in the rest of Asia.

    • Hot water: Not always in cheap places, but certainly in the new hostels.

    • Average cost: SG$20+ a night to much higher. A 'real' hotel will be out of a budget travellers price range.

  • Hassle and annoyance factor: Never a problem

    • Women alone: Never a problem - totally trouble free

  • Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: Alcohol and cigarettes expensive - don't even mention drugs

  • Communications: Easy internet access and some call centres. International calling cards used in the many public phone boxes make calling home very easy and very cheap. Like everything in Singapore the quality is great.

  • Media:

    • Books: Some imported newspapers and expensive bookshops. There are a lot of regular bookshops and also some great second hand ones for the bargains. All with mostly English books. Strait Times is a good English language newspaper.

    • TV: Only in expensive hotels or hostel common areas.

  • Food: Singapore is one of the best places in the world to eat, since so many cultures come together, the choice is huge. Street cafes in little China and little India are your best bet for a good cheap meal. Food is cheap, especially in the Geylang Serai/Katong areas.

    • Vegetarians: Fine, huge choice.

  • Rating: 7.5/10

Many thanks to Tjerk Jan Schuitmaker for his recent updates and insights.

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» Thailand

* Miss at your peril: (despite the crowds) - 'Highlight of Independent Travel'

  • Intro: Thailand is where many travellers first venture as a backpacker and although in time they may view it with contempt, they'll probably never forget how easy it was to have a good time, how friendly and fun-loving the Thais were and just how picture perfect the beaches are. Many arrive alone and/or frightened, and before they know it are having a fantastic time. Thailand is a country with huge appeal, but increasingly crowded and cheesy. Certainly on the tourist trail English is never a problem, travel is straightforward and relaxing is easy on some of the world's best beaches or in any one of the thousands of great bars Thailand has to offer.

There is, however, much to discover in Thailand apart from beaches and since it's easy to get around you've no excuse not to take the time to explore before being tempted by the likes of 'full moon parties' and neighbouring countries. Avoid the crowds by not staying on the Khaosan Road in Bangkok and not going to Chang Mai or any well known islands or beaches. Don't miss some ruins and a national park; hill tribe treks and full moon parties are - many feel in retrospect and when compared to other Asian activities - overrated. Thailand may well be the easiest backpacker destination on earth and, the 'pinch of salt' (right) comment aside comes recommended especially for those nervous about setting off into the big wide world.

A pinch of salt

Judge for yourself, but this easy, fun-filled (cheap living, cheap girls and even cheaper beer) country attracts visitors of all types from all over the world for just that purpose. There isn't much class or culture in most of the offerings to these tourists and the sight can leave a bad taste in the mouth as might be experienced in Cancun, Ibiza Town and the like. Pattaya really has to be one of the worst showcases for this not just in Thailand, but worldwide.

Pattaya - though as much of an oddity it is, and admittedly a far cry from most of Thailand - does, however make an interesting example. It was set-up as Asia's first tourist resort to cater for GIs during the Vietnam war. If other parts of Asia follow this lead catering now not to GIs but to an influx of package tourists from China/Russia and others (old guys looking for young girls and those who think the likes of smoking monkeys are funny), it's going to be a sad day - unfortunately it seems to be happening already. Anyone who has made a few visits to popular resorts and islands over the past ten or even five years might, at witnessing the speed of development, have already considered such an omen.

  • Hot/cold, wet and dry: Hot and humid most of the time of the year, best during Nov/Dec/Jan, but this is equally the most crowded rime (then it's always tourist central). March to May is extra sticky with 35C the norm. Summer (July/August) is still hot and technically wet season, but not a major hindrance to travel.

  • Costs: Pretty good value, $30-50 per day, much more if you like to party since beer is quite expensive comparative to the cost of living. It needs to be stated that Thailand has become much more expensive in the past few years. Major resorts have long been more expensive, but now many more places are catching up. Rural Thailand still remains cheap, but on the tourist trail costs are rising and numerous temptations burn money fast. Those coming from Indochina, Nepal/India or Burma might find Thailand a little (and only a little) pricey - though it's still good value by western standards.

  • Visa strategy: Simply speaking there are two main types of tourist visa for Thailand, but entry requirements do vary for citizens of different countries as you would expect. Generally speaking, two main methods of entry are available for travellers...

  • 1. Many opt for the conditional 30 day visa exemption stamp on arrival. One of the conditions is that you must be able to prove that you're leaving Thailand by air within 30 days of your arrival. So basically, you may need to show the immigration officers flight tickets or e-booking confirmation of flights out of the country before they stamp you in. Bear in mind that proof of flights out of Thailand only are acceptable under this rule. Flights from neighbouring countries won't suffice, even if they're for within 30 days. The second condition is that you must be able to show 20,000 baht in available funds upon arrival, to prove that you can support yourself.

    All of this said, Thai immigration enforce these rules completely at random. They might check you, they might not. They almost definitely won't check to see if you have the funds, but they may check for proof of onward flights. Also be mindful that more and more airlines will now refuse to carry you to Thailand in the first place if you can't produce a valid visa or proof of onward flights when checking in at your departure airport. Also, once in Thailand a short extension to the 30 day visa exemption may be granted for a fee, but they aren't a God given right despite what you may read or hear elsewhere. Take it from someone with experience!

    2.  The second option is a tourist visa (in advance) valid for 60 days. You can also buy double and triple entry tourist visas, with each entry also entitling you to 60 days. Tourist visas can be extended for varying lengths, at varying number of times and varying costs. You'll be fined if you overstay. To extend free of charge, leave the country, turn around and re-enter Thailand under the 30 day visa exemption rule mentioned above. A plus point of this method is that proof of onward flights are never checked for at land borders, so you can walk back in no questions asked. However, time limits govern how long you're permitted to stay in Thailand under the visa exemption rule, with the current limit being a maximum of 90 days in any 180 day period starting when you first arrive. In the past 18 months, Thai authorities have tightened up visa requirements and even changed the regulations considerably.

    In the past years, Thai authorities have tightened up visa requirements considerably and they'll be changing again soon, with the advent of the new collaboration visas with other SE Asian countries. Whereas Thailand is far difficult when it comes to visas, it is also wise to check what the situation and read the comprehensive info here on a Thai consulate web page.

  • Dangers: Some petty theft and druggings but not that common, loads of little scams and crimes of opportunity due to large tourist numbers. Theft of passports and credit cards is reported as a major problem. Oh, and watch out for those lady boys! The southern provinces of Pattani, Yala, Narathiwat and Songkhla have been considered unsafe due to militant activities, explosions and government fire fights. So check the situation before you go and don't hang around any hot spots unnecessarily.

  • Typical tourist trail: Bangkok to Chang Mai (return to) Bangkok to the Samui archipelago to Ko Tao or Phuket to Malaysia. There are some good sample popular itineraries and a lot of good information on travelfish's Thailand page.

  • Money: ATMs - which are very plentiful. Any hard currency cash or travellers cheques change easily in larger towns and major traveller destinations.

  • Getting around: Thailand has great trains and buses - cheap, fast and simple to use. Tickets are easy to arrange from numerous travel agents, however to avoid an agent's commission, always try and buy your own tickets from train or bus stations, it is not too hard. To move around cheaply and travel on a limited budget take 'fan' buses on short to medium journeys - if you leave early in the morning, it's normally cool enough. Plus third class trains - these take a bit longer than AC buses but are great and a cheap way to move. For example: Khorat to Bangkok costs B50 on ordinary third class train (6 hours), B78 on ordinary bus (5 hours) or B139 on AC bus (4 hours).

    • Yet another rip-off: To reach many tourist destinations you can get privately organised bus and minibus transport. Agents who sell tickets will tell you what you want to hear re: length of trip, quality and number of passengers. Most notorious are Bangkok to Siem Reap buses. Think about it; if your ticket is costing half the price of a public service ticket, you're going to get at least 50% quality and a pretty shit journey - be warned.

    • Motorbikes: Can be rented in any larger town and with care, are a great way to tour country routes.

    • Trains: Are cheap, easy, comfortable during the day and night (if a little cold at times) and let you see the country as you experience it, for more details see Thai Train System Explained
    • Airport: Since Bangkok is a major stop over it is worth mentioning that airport buses run from 0430 to 0030 and the fare is about 100B per person. You need the A2 for the Khao San Rd (the stop is Chakraphong Rd), for more info see here. Late at night a taxi is best (better with someone else). As always, ignore touts inside the terminal. Leave the terminal and follow the signs for Taxi to get to the rank (it's really close from the exit - you will see it from the terminal door), walk over and tell the attendant where you are going. They'll write it down on a form and give it to you. Stand in line and the driver will then take a portion of the ticket (or the attendant may give it directly to him/her) -  do not let the driver take the whole form - it has all his details on it. Key point (as always) is to make sure the driver turns the meter on – it starts at about 35B. If a driver refuses to put the meter on, or turns it off, tell him to take you back to the rank, or just get out and get another taxi - be firm. They try it on a lot. You will however have to pay the motorway toll if you travel into the city by this route, so don't be surprised if you are asked for some cash halfway through your journey. It's worth noting that the info and tourist advice desk in the airport is first class and if in doubt they can help with many matters.

    • Internal and international (local) flights: Air Asia and other carriers have a good and very reasonable network to KL, Chiang Mai, Penang, Siem Reap, Hanoi and beyond. Internal flights are equally pretty cheap.

  • People vibe:

    • Locals: Generally nice, always smiling, but can get a little tourist-weary. The Thai are a proud race and this can result in some frosty behaviour toward travellers who don't show respect to it or to all tourists in general by some.

    • Other travellers: Increasingly many package holiday makers and those in early teens- almost every type of traveller it seems ends up in Bangkok at some time! Around the southern beach hot spots expect at some point to run into some of the worst types of independent travellers. As with India and Brazil, you can expect a large number of young Israeli travellers. Also expect to see a large number of (young and old) guys going around with Thai girls.

  • Tourist factor: 9/10

  • Communications: Slightly expensive international call centres. Good internet on the mainland and ADSL connections can even be found on popular islands such as Ko Pha Ngan. Post good value - best to send parcels at the 'slow air' (SAL) rate which is half the price of regular Air and usually take much less than the 1.5 months delivery time announced, in particularly if you register it (an additional B25) and put an airmail sticker on the package.

  • URL: Liked Travel Fish - it's a great resource with good FAQ for first timers. Also see http://www.thai-experience.org for festival dates and volunteering

Accommodation:

Rooms of a normal Asian standard, great value away from main tourist attractions and conversely steadily raising prices in main tourist haunts (popular beaches and islands and of course the Ko San road in Bangkok).

  • Hot water: Not common, if on the cheap

  • Average cost: Various, normally under $10-15. Sleeping on the cheap it's normally possible to find a bed under five bucks, but expect low standards.

The Khaosan Road (Banglampoo - map), - love it or hate it - really is backpacker central not just for Thailand, but for the whole of South East Asia. It's really just one rather small and shabby street in a very big, fascinating
city, which offers a lot of budget-priced accommodation and services for travellers. Like everywhere in Thailand as the country's popularity rose and backpackers flooded in, its growth has been phenomenal and just keeps going. Those who visited even a few years back would find some parts unrecognisable, as big hotels and yet more delights to service a backpacker's every need go up. The development on the streets behind the Khao San Road (across the street from the police station and past the temple) is particularly notable; these used to be recommended as better, cheaper, quieter options, but no longer.

Worth mentioning is that the Khao San Road (which after all many travellers will want to stay on) can get very full even early in the day and although you can normally find 'something' it might take a fair bit of searching - solution: if dead set to stay in a nice place in the heart of it all, you might want to book ahead.

Away from Bangkok and the Khao San Road, a good range of accommodation is easy to find (apart from popular beach resorts during Christmas and a few other times of the year), although as mentioned 'above the rock bottom' (aka slightly nicer places) rates are slowly rising and standards dropping. AC is nice in the hot season, but comes at a price. If sleeping in beach huts which are common on Thailand's islands/beaches, make sure they are secure.

Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol:

Opium available in hill tribe areas and amphetamines available on the Samui archipelago. Grass is always available, but buying in Bangkok is getting a bit dodgy as random police checks do happen. The Samui archipelago has always been the centre of Thailand's backpacker recreations drugs scene, but police are much stricter than in the past and especially at full moon parties. Twenty years ago you could order a magic mushroom omelette straight off a menu and the smell of grass filled the air. Okay if you look hard enough you can still find mushrooms on Ko Pha Ngan, one island along and famed for its full moon parties and grass is always available. Only police are getting stricter and stricter. Be discreet and don't get blasé. Thousands of overseas visitors are prosecuted for drug offences every year in Thailand. Full moon parties are notorious for attracting undercover police. Running around trying to buy grass, acid or ecstasy off complete strangers at 2am on a beach is not recommended. Having said that you still see loads of people doing it (maybe they are the same ones you see getting arrested later). Be aware that Methamphetamines are often passed off as ecstasy and speed as cocaine and sudden deaths have occurred at full moon parties. If you do buy drugs, do yourself a favour and don't travel with them as the penalties if caught are even higher. If you grew out of all this years ago or simply aren't interested, it's worth skipping these islands as there are nicer places in Thailand/Asia with less idiots.

Beer is expensive in comparison with other costs in Thailand. A 660ml local bottle costs half the price of a basic guesthouse room (about B50). But maybe this means that rooms are cheap...

Full moon party expected dates: Friday 22 February 2008, Friday 21 March 2008, Sunday 20 April 2008, Tuesday 20 May 2008, Thursday 19 June 2008, 19 July 2008, 16 August 2008, 14 September 2008, 14 October 2008, 12 November 2008, 12 December 2008. Dates do sometimes change due to Buddhist Holidays. This is now a commercialised event.

  • Media:

    • Books: Loads of book shops in Bangkok, but not as good value as in Kathmandu or Saigon. Everyone seems to be reading 'The Beach' and for good reason. For more details, please click here.

    • TV: New release movies played in cafes and restaurants. If paying a little more for a room (mid-range standard), a TV with numerous international satellite channels is fairly common in tourist centres.

  • Food: Great, but can be very spicy - eat off the street for best food. Banana pancakes may well be the tastiest food on earth. Seafood excellent.

    • Vegetarians: No problem. If unsure you can always ask for 'Buddhist' meals.

  • Guidebook: Various, available in Bangkok (but not cheaper than at home) No recommendations, you don't really need one on the beaten track. Plus both the Rough Guide and LP are far from brilliant. Click here for a good list of Thai links.

  • What to take: You might hear a lot about taking your own padlock. The reason for this is that the doors of some hotel rooms, normally the cheaper ones, lock only with a padlock. Take one for sure, but you will find that most budget places insist that you use their padlock (don't lose the key - they will charge you the earth). You can always chain your bag to the bed, but if the place really feels that dodgy, stay elsewhere. See the what to pack section for all the normal recommendations.

  • Hassle and annoyance factor: Very limited, some beggars and touts. Anyone with half a brain will tell you not to buy drugs off tuk-tuk drivers or gems off their best mate/uncle.

    • Women alone: Lone female travellers are fairly common. Be careful at night and in bars where drink drugging have occurred (Ko Phan Ngan has the current reputation).

 

  • Rating: 7/10

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» Vietnam - See Indochina page

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Others

  • Brunei: is essentially a fairly expensive few days side-trip, if in East Malaysia

  • Papa New Guinea: where the Banana Pancake Trail crowds really thin out, a great alternative destination, but difficult to get around. Port Moresby has a bad reputation and is not inviting. No onward overland transport to Australia

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One of the best sources of planning information in Asia is Trailblazer's 'Asia Overland', although the Cambodia chapter is very out-of-date. However there is a new version of this book out that focuses just on South East Asia. It is a fantastic guide made up of hand-drawn maps packed with great information. It's called South-East Asia: A Graphical Guide and is by the same author as Asia Overland - Mark Elliott.

 For a full list of planning guides, recommended guide books and reading material, please click here.

 

Remember, this is only a take (an overview if you will); very few get the chance to see every inch of every country or have the time to get everyone's opinion (you are welcome and encouraged to mail in yours). Please, please if you have been anywhere recently send your comments to contribute and help keep all information fresh for future travellers. Or if you are about to head off remember this site when you return and put a few lines in an e-mail to let us know if things have changed.

 

"A short pen is better than a long memory"

Confucius

 

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