South East Asia
 

Australia & the Pacific | Central America| South America | North America | Southern Asia | Northern Asia | South East Asia | Indochina | North Africa | East Africa | Southern Africa | West Africa | The Middle/Near East | Guides & Other Books

» Cambodia - See Indochina page

» Indonesia

• Dangers: There has been political unrest in the past and most Indonesians are a little crazy (just look at the way they drive). Best stay away from Aceh, unless you are happy with the current situation, some parts of Maluku, especially Ambon, and some parts of Sulawesi, which are experiencing civilian unrest.

• Hot/cold, wet and dry: Sumatra is right on the equator - so often hot or wet, but mountains can be quite cold and snow can be found on peaks in central Irian Jaya. The seasonal variations between wet and dry are a little varied for different parts of the country and you are best to consult a more detailed guide book, but generally speaking travel is fine all year round and wet season downpours last only a few hours. Even the driest periods seem damp and humid in most parts.

• Typical tourist trail: From Singapore to Bali and Lombok

• Getting off the beaten track: With such a vast area, getting off the beaten track is easy given the right amount of time and money. One such area is the Bird's Head Peninsula of West Papua, the Indonesian part of New Guinea (aka Irian Jaya), for which Marc Todts has contributed an excellent summary - click here to see it.

• Costs: Recent troubles ensure the Rupiah keeps falling; prices vary from island to island but are always reasonable. $25 a day is no problem

• Money: ATMs in major cities and islands, take supply of cash out to further islands with you. In Kuta (Bali) exchange rip-off is very frequent and for that reason it is best to use your ATM card

• What to buy: Sarongs and cheap surf-type clothing in Kuta (Bali)

• Getting around: Getting around depends on the island. On major islands such as Java, it's a breeze. Off the beaten track in Kalimantan or West Papua there are few roads.

  • In general, buses on land, some good, others not so. Between backpacker centres there is a well developed network of tourist buses. Prices are many times greater than local buses, but still cheap and save a lot of time and hassle. However with a reduction in tourist numbers over the past few years, many services have been suspended.

  • Train services available only in Java and parts of Sumatra. Several trains run between Jakarta and Surabaya. Some trains are comfortable (AC sleepers), others not so and prices for different classes and trains vary enormously.

  • Boats to get from island to island. Since you have to cross water, travel can be time consuming. PELNI, the state owned shipping company has numerous vessels, operating on about two week loop schedules. Ships are AC and first class cabins have TV and privacy. Timetables on line. There are places on yachts, normally heading from Bali to Komodo. Off the beaten track, inter-island exploring can be expensive and time consuming especially in Maluku (spice islands).

  • Air, considering the difficulties and expense with getting far afield, internal flights become a very attractive option.

• Guide book: Lonely Planet. For a full list of regional guides and details on the LP, please click here.

• People vibe:

  • Locals: Vary from island to island, for example (despite huge numbers of tourists) natives in Bali and Lombok are very pleasant. However, it is a far cry from Java, indeed much of the hassle you get in Bali comes from Javan immigrants. Generally friendly and welcoming.

  • Other travellers: If you are a European, imagine Ibiza, if you're an American, imagine Cancún. This is how many Australians see Bali (or used to). Outside Bali, typical South East Asian travellers. In many parts of Indonesia you will find yourself happily alone.

• Tourist factor: Kuta in Bali is pretty bad - 9/10, most other areas 7/10 - 5/10

• Accommodation: Accommodation can be basic on remoter islands. You can also get in some very nice empty hotels in Bali at little cost if you want a treat.

  • Hot water: Sometimes a problem

  • Average cost: As little as US$3, average US$8

• Communications: Internet on most main islands

• Media:

  • Books: Limited bookshops in Jakarta and Kuta

  • TV: In more expensive hotels. Movies played in restaurants and bars in tourist areas

• Food: Very basic (plates of fried rice) to very developed (McBali burger in Kuta)

  • Vegetarians: Fine

• Hassle and annoyance factor: Can be hard work with tons of hassle in many places especially in Bali ('You want transport?' calls can drive you mad). More relaxed off the beaten track.

  • Women alone: Normally okay, be careful and remember this is a Muslim nation. Mild harassment is common, but not a major problem. It's easy to say you are married and dress a little conservatory.

• Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: Depending on island, soft drugs easily available, although in the likes of Kuta (Bali) a little too easy and questions are raised as to just how safe it is buying off the street. In addition, magic mushrooms can be found in the wet season if that's your bag.

• Rating: 7/10

» Laos  - See Indochina page

» Malaysia

• Intro: Malaysia (coupled with Singapore) is one of the most pleasant, hassle-free countries to visit in South-East Asia. It can be described as buoyant and wealthy with a cultural infusion of Malay, Chinese, Indian and indigenous groups that you just don't get in Thailand. The peninsular has good transport, jungle, beaches, culture and is a good chance to escape some of the Thailand crowds. Most travellers zip through, which is why others say that it is SE Asia's hidden jewel (although others might label it as dull after a long stay in Thailand/Indochina). East Malaysia (Sabah and Sarawak) is the Borneo travellers speak of and is much more adventurous and fun. Malaysia is fairly developed and easy to travel in but nowhere as exotic or cheap as the likes of Indonesia or Thailand. Most visitors tend to stick to the big city lights of Kuala Lumpur (KL) or the colonial Cameron Highlands Hill Stations. However, the island of East Malaysia offers the best of Malaysia with wildlife, caves, longhouses and Mt Kinabalu.

  • Highlights: Islands of Perhentian, Kecil (small) considered better than the Besar (big) - however both now becoming big touristic areas with package accommodation and so on. A trek in Taman Negara National Park, Niah Caves (East Malaysia), and climbing Mount Kinabalu (East Malaysia)

  • Lowlights: Penang, less fun than Thailand. Some find Sabah not challenging enough (or as they expected) and overcrowded in places. Many island resorts have priced backpackers out or are trying to.

• People vibe:

  • Locals: You notice instantly that Malaysians are a lot more diverse and less open than their Thai neighbours. In the east, interesting tribes.

  • Other travellers: Typical backpacker types. Many older travellers.

• Tourist factor: 7/10

• Accommodation: You can find a cheap bed almost anywhere (except resort islands that have gone very up market). In tourist/transit bus and train stations, touts come with a photo and map of the guesthouse they represent. On beaches, Thailand style A-frame huts are hard to find and most accommodation is more expensive and aimed at package tourists. If you want an ultra cheap time on a picture perfect developed beach, head to the Philippines, Indonesia or Thailand. Nevertheless quality does make up for the higher prices in many instances.

  • Hot water: Fine, limited in jungle areas and ultra cheap places.

  • Average cost: $15-20

• Communications: Widespread Internet

• Media: New book shops in very civilised KL, no real traveller scene, so limited second hand books, but plenty first hand.

• Food: Normally pretty good, standard fare.

  • Vegetarians: Fine, good variety

• Hassle and annoyance factor: Limited

  • Women alone: Not really a problem

   

• Rating: 6/10

» Myanmar (Burma)

• Intro: Asking questions about Burma on newsgroups several years back would have had you shouted down on ethical grounds. Now more and more people are discovering one of Asia's hidden jewels - it's only hoped they are doing it responsibly. Burma is a land of wonders, gentle culture and welcoming smiles, but before you go make sure that you are well aware of the situation there and how your visit may prolong it. The Lonely Planet (unlike the Rough Guide, who believe the disadvantages of travel outweigh the advantages and thus ignore the country) has an excellent introduction in their guide to Myanmar regarding the merit and demerits of visiting. Often quoted is that isolating a country and starving its population of income in the hope they will have less to lose and revolt, is a dangerous and almost sickening policy. Many will wonder if all those who call for a total travel boycott rather than responsible tourism will visit China (occupying Tibet), Israel (occupying the West Bank and Gaza), France (nuclear testing in the Pacific) or even America and the UK (where do we start there!). However the argument regarding tourism and the support it lends to one of the world's most brutal dictatorships as opposed to its many possible positive effects is highly complex. You are left to your own decision (this article and others are worth reading).

  • Highlights: Bagan (Pagan), the people and 'removed from the west' culture. Getting off the tourist trail

  • Lowlights: Government travel restrictions, ignorant package and other tourists (on MTT tours)

• People vibe:

  • Locals: Incredibly friendly and welcoming, hard not to feel sorrow for their situation

  • Other travellers: Some awful package tourists, others generally nice guys. In recent years much more of an overflow of the banana pancake crowd.

• Guide book: Lonely Planet. For a full list of regional guides and other reading please click here. Remember you won't find a Burma section in the Rough Guide SEA guide. Another up to date guidebook on the market is the Insight guide to Burma, published Dec 04 (LP: Nov 05).

• Accommodation: Many guest houses and hotels, try to find those that are locally owned. Most places are empty, so always bargain - you can get a good room for $10-$15. Prices more expensive in Yangon, some cheap rooms available.

  • Hot water: Can be a problem

  • Average cost: $20-30

• Media:

  • Books: Some copies of Burmese Days floating around in Bagan, which is a good, if somewhat depressing read. There are, of-course, numerous great books written on the struggle for democracy in Burma, but these are best read before you go and not while there for obvious reasons. One to read on your trip might be, The Trouser People: A Story of Burma in the Shadow of the Empire. It's a mixture of a travelogue and historical book about Burma, the historical bit focusing on a explorer type called George Scott, (who brought his beloved game of football to Burma) about 100 years ago. It's a great read. The ISBN is 1582432422.

  • TV: None

• Food: Pretty limited - hope you like rice

  • Vegetarians: Fine

• Hassle and annoyance factor: There are plenty of things to get annoyed about, but the people themselves are never a concern. Very friendly laid back culture

  • Women alone: Fine

• Rating: 8/10

Miss at your peril: Bagan, people, culture and getting off the beaten track in Myanmar - 'Highlight of Independent Travel'

» Philippines

Miss at your peril - 'Highlight of Independent Travel'

• Intro: Many say the Philippines just isn't South East Asia. Sure it's the only Catholic country in the region, an island nation (over seven thousand of them) which can't be 'just popped over the border to', English is widely spoken and of course it sits well away from a mainland and off any practical route. In fact the Philippines is every bit South East Asia - all the good bits. Great beaches, dramatic volcanoes, a colourful transport system, diverse culture, hill tribe & jungle treks and stunning rice terraces. The only thing that really sets the Philippines apart from the likes of Thailand et al. is in comparison you have the place to yourself. Forget Vietnam this, or Malaysia that, you can keep them all because when you've seen the rest, head to the Philippines. The Philippines is ultra diverse, there's something for pretty much everyone (from swimming with Whale Sharks, cheap diving and forgotten beaches to good surfing, even better nightlife, hill tribes; the list goes on). Very civilised in parts, excellent value for money (when the Peso is weak) and the fact English is widely spoken is a massive bonus for many. Sometimes it seems the only ones who have discovered these beautiful islands are the Koreans/Japanese and the sizable number of westerners who have settled and walk around with a beautiful Filipino on their arm. Alex Garland's a huge fan and so will just about anyone who's been. Mabuhay!

  • Highlights: Great nightlife (cheap beer, a young vibe and plenty of excellent live music), undoubtedly some of the world's best beaches (some maybe crowded, but with a little time and travel you can find your own paradise), underwater gardens (for divers and non-divers alike, the coral and many wrecks are stunning - great value scuba), trekking (there are many volcanoes to climb, but most require a good deal of planning and determination, however the highland areas of Luzon are easy to explore, stunning and relative uncrowded), fantastic food options, possibly the world's best shopping and the Latin fire stroke Asian grace of the long suffering Filipino. Other places of note: Vigan, around Banaue, Sagarda, Bohol and anywhere offering a cold San Miguel and a massage on a white beach at sunset.

  • Lowlights: The jury's still out on Boracay, beautiful as it may be, some find it just too developed and expensive when compared to other options (still others love its choice of bars/restaurants/hotels, amazing beaches and kite surfing). Damaged coral and lengthy bus journeys where air/sea is not at option. Manila makes a good first impression on few (although it has plenty to offer). In places, like in Thailand, sex tourism is obvious and can leave a bad taste in the mouth if you come across it. Finally not all, but some boats are obviously overloaded and not for the faint hearted in rough seas.

• Visa strategy: A three week visa is free on arrival for most nationalities. Extensions allowing you a total stay of two months cost around US$30 in Manila, Boracay, Cebu and many other places. Unless you are getting someone to organise it for you the hassle is less in the likes of Boracay or Baguio. Second extensions are more costly and regulations get stricter the longer you stay.

• Hiking: The mountains and rice terraces of north Luzon are a worthwhile alternative to the over-commercialised hill tribe treks of northern Thailand. Banaue/Sagarda can be somewhat of a pain to reach, so you will probably want to make the most of your time there with a two to three day DIY trek. When it comes to the most attractive (and therefore most popular routes) guides can easily be arranged, but not as essential as locals will tell you the way. You will find some basic places to stay if making a loop from the spectacular terraces in Batad. Private transport is however necessary in many cases are public jeepneys are not so common on the more remote roads. Away from mountain provinces, hiking needs plenty of stamina and even more water as it's going to be hot.

• Hot/cold, wet and dry: Hot almost all year around, there is however a highland area to escape to where, in winter months, it can get fairly chilly.

• Typical tourist trail: Virtually all flights land in Manila (although you can enter the country in Cebu) Manila like any big Asian city has nightmare traffic and heavy pollution. From there on, there is no tourist trail as such. Many travellers will leave by air for Cebu (onto Bohol) or Boracay. Many will bus north to Baguio and onto Banaue and further north. For those on limited time the closest resort/dive site is Puerto Galera.

• Costs: US$25-40, depending on your passion for Scuba, beer and AC rooms. Heading into rural areas you will be hard pushed to spend even half of this.

• Money: ATMs plentiful in any large town. However don't get caught out by lack of ATMs at Clark Airport (where inter-regional budget flights sometimes land and you'll need some cash for the two-four hour bus ride to Manila) and on Palawan. Most hard currency will change in big cities and tourist enclaves. US dollars as good as Filipino Peso.

• Guide book: Both the Lonely Planet and the Rough Guide have good looking and fairly new guides out. Neither is that good. Used the Rough Guide only a few months after it was published and it was full of errors. Still, the context chapters were excellent and the quality and accuracy was found to be better than the LP counterpart. Philippines chapters in SEA multi-country guides are very poor. See more info on Rough Guide Philippines, which is the recommended guide, click here. Using this site to buy through Amazon contributes massively to its continuation.

• People vibe:

  • Locals: Although English is an official language, don't expect every local you meet to be 100% proficient, although the basic understanding most have and the excellent understanding many have, makes for good interaction and ease of travel. Apart from a few exceptions, the Filipinos are a very friendly and welcoming bunch in a way you would never find in the Western world.

  • Other travellers: Few of the typical SE Asian backpackers and fewer of the younger crowd or Israelis you find in Thailand. Many westerners travellers are those with Filipino wives/girlfriends/kids. Popular destination for Japanese, Taiwanese and Koreans, many of whom honeymoon or learn English here.

• Accommodation: Accommodation and cost vary substantially. It's fair to say there is not the quantity and/or range of accommodation as in other parts of SE Asia, although there is enough. Costs tend to be slightly higher, but if you want to go basic there's plenty and the prices are rock bottom. Manila has only a few traveller-focused guesthouses, recommended highly in guidebooks and almost always fully booked. There are other options such as the good value mid-range hotels in the Manila district of Malate if you crave AC. Beach resorts have plenty of fancy accommodation geared at Japanese and Korean holiday makers. In resorts good value low/mid-range places aren't too plentiful or great value, but can be found. As with anywhere if you want AC you dearly pay for it. Off the beaten track accommodation gets much more basic, but is really cheap. As in Indonesia the mayor or village chief of small out-of-the-way places may be able to help you find a place to stay when there is no hotel.

  • Hot water: Not always in cheap places.

  • Average cost: From as little as US$5 in the north to on average US$15 to US$25.

• Communications: Easy cheap internet access almost everywhere and some good call centres in major cities. Mobile phone use is widespread (Filipinos are text mad) so SIM cards are cheap and easy to buy. On the beaten track and major beach resorts, Wi-Fi spots are easy to find.

• Tourist factor: 6/10, most visitors limit themselves to resorts such as Boracay.

• Rating: 8.5/10

» Singapore

• Intro: Singapore is really just a transit zone for backpackers, on their way to the beaches of Thailand, Malaysia, the myriad of Indonesian islands or Australia. It is also quite a bizarre place (coming from the rest of Asia); cars use their indicators and stop at crossings! There's none of that mayhem that makes travel so interesting (and at times stressful) in the rest of Asia. It is an expensive place by neighbouring country standards, but cheaper than Japan, Australia or Korea. For its size there's loads to do but, being such a small place, after a few days (unless hitting the shops big time) you'll probably want to move on. What strikes you most is the Chinese, Malay and Indian traditions that seem to blend into the city. In the morning you could be on a market stall eating noodles as in Vietnam and in another part of town find Indian temples as in Madras. Then its high tea in the best British fashion with air-con, starched linen table cloths and gliding waiters. If you want 'it's a small world' Asia without breaking too much of a sweat, here's your place.

  • Highlights: Zoos (there are two, a day one and a night one) and cleanliness. Amazing, brilliantly tasty, safe and cheap food from every Asian (or Western) cuisine you can imagine. Shopping, drinking Singapore Slings and marveling at it all while kicking back for a few days with zero hassle and everything you might need.

  • Lowlights: Raffles, electronic goods prices not too different than home (electronics usually aren't the bargains they used to be), costs and accommodation prices.

• Visa strategy: Free on arrival - varies 14/30/90 days depending on citizenship and/or point of entry

• Dangers: Super-safe and mega-clean. This is one place you do not want to break the law, and they have some strange ones

• Hot/cold, wet and dry: Very hot almost all year around - avoid the wet, humid season

• Costs: US$35-50, depending on your alcohol consumption. Slightly less expensive than the USA and certainly western Europe, but hugely more expensive than say Indonesia

• Money: ATMs extremely plentiful along with change places

• Getting around: Fantastic public bus system. Trains to Malaysia, ferries to Indonesia. The MRT is one of the best metro-systems in the world and the budget airlines operating from Johor Bahru, just across the border, and from Changi airport will take you all over Asia and to Darwin (Australia) at real bargain prices (see budget airlines in the links section).

• Guide book: Make some notes from someone else's guide or photocopy a few pages. No real need for a guidebook, other than an address of a place to stay when you first arrive. All major hostels provide great info. Local guidebooks and maps can be picked up with ease cheaply or free from tourist info places.

• People vibe:

  • Locals: Highly multi-ethnic population, some of whom are not too jolly (Chinese). Very helpful in general, although a bit paranoid at times.

  • Other travellers: Typical SE Asian teens & backpackers on transit between Asia and other parts of the world. Plus a fair amount of older travellers stopping off between Australia and Europe and an ever increasing number of Asian tourist.

• Tourist factor: 6/10

• Rating: 7.5/10

Many thanks to Tjerk Jan Schuitmaker for his recent updates and insights.

» Thailand

Miss at your peril: (despite the crowds) - 'Highlight of Independent Travel'

• Highlights: Khao Sok national park, Ko Chang, Similan islands, getting away from the masses, beach life and a great base to explore neighbouring countries. A show in Bangkok's Pat Pong or a few good nights out/parties will give you a few stories to tell back home.

• Lowlights: Crowds (Pattaya, Phuket, Ko Samui), hill tribe treks (around Chang Mai), full moon parties (Ko Pha Ngan) and many of the other travellers visiting.

• Hot/cold, wet and dry: Hot and humid most of the time of the year, best during Nov/Dec/Jan, but this is equally the most crowded rime (then it's always tourist central). March to May is extra sticky with 35C the norm. Summer (July/August) is still hot and technically wet season, but not a major hindrance to travel.

• Costs: Pretty good value, $30-50 per day, much more if you like to party since beer is quite expensive comparative to the cost of living. It needs to be stated that Thailand has become much more expensive in the past few years. Major resorts have long been more expensive, but now many more places are catching up. Rural Thailand still remains cheap, but on the tourist trail costs are rising and numerous temptations burn money fast. Those coming from Indochina, Nepal/India or Burma might find Thailand a little (and only a little) pricey - though it's still good value by western standards.

• Visa strategy: Simply speaking there are two main types of tourist visa for Thailand, but entry requirements do vary for citizens of different countries as you would expect. Generally speaking, two main methods of entry are available for travellers...

1. Many opt for the conditional 30 day visa exemption stamp on arrival. One of the conditions is that you must be able to prove that you're leaving Thailand by air within 30 days of your arrival. So basically, you may need to show the immigration officers flight tickets or e-booking confirmation of flights out of the country before they stamp you in. Bear in mind that proof of flights out of Thailand only are acceptable under this rule. Flights from neighbouring countries won't suffice, even if they're for within 30 days. The second condition is that you must be able to show 20,000 baht in available funds upon arrival, to prove that you can support yourself.

All of this said, Thai immigration enforce these rules completely at random. They might check you, they might not. They almost definitely won't check to see if you have the funds, but they may check for proof of onward flights. Also be mindful that more and more airlines will now refuse to carry you to Thailand in the first place if you can't produce a valid visa or proof of onward flights when checking in at your departure airport. Also, once in Thailand a short extension to the 30 day visa exemption may be granted for a fee, but they aren't a God given right despite what you may read or hear elsewhere. Take it from someone with experience!

2.  The second option is a tourist visa (in advance) valid for 60 days. You can also buy double and triple entry tourist visas, with each entry also entitling you to 60 days. Tourist visas can be extended for varying lengths, at varying number of times and varying costs. You'll be fined if you overstay. To extend free of charge, leave the country, turn around and re-enter Thailand under the 30 day visa exemption rule mentioned above. A plus point of this method is that proof of onward flights are never checked for at land borders, so you can walk back in no questions asked. However, time limits govern how long you're permitted to stay in Thailand under the visa exemption rule, with the current limit being a maximum of 90 days in any 180 day period starting when you first arrive. In the past 18 months, Thai authorities have tightened up visa requirements and even changed the regulations considerably.

In the past years, Thai authorities have tightened up visa requirements considerably and they'll be changing again soon, with the advent of the new collaboration visas with other SE Asian countries. Whereas Thailand is far difficult when it comes to visas, it is also wise to check what the situation and read the comprehensive info here on a Thai consulate web page.

• Dangers: Some petty theft and druggings but not that common, loads of little scams and crimes of opportunity due to large tourist numbers. Theft of passports and credit cards is reported as a major problem. Oh, and watch out for those lady boys! The southern provinces of Pattani, Yala, Narathiwat and Songkhla have been considered unsafe due to militant activities, explosions and government fire fights. So check the situation before you go and don't hang around any hot spots unnecessarily.

• Typical tourist trail: Bangkok to Chang Mai (return to) Bangkok to the Samui archipelago to Ko Tao or Phuket to Malaysia. There are some good sample popular itineraries and a lot of good information on travelfish's Thailand page.

• Money: ATMs - which are very plentiful. Any hard currency cash or travellers cheques change easily in larger towns and major traveller destinations.

• Getting around: Thailand has great trains and buses - cheap, fast and simple to use. Tickets are easy to arrange from numerous travel agents, however to avoid an agent's commission, always try and buy your own tickets from train or bus stations, it is not too hard. To move around cheaply and travel on a limited budget take 'fan' buses on short to medium journeys - if you leave early in the morning, it's normally cool enough. Plus third class trains - these take a bit longer than AC buses but are great and a cheap way to move. For example: Khorat to Bangkok costs B50 on ordinary third class train (6 hours), B78 on ordinary bus (5 hours) or B139 on AC bus (4 hours).

  • Yet another rip-off: To reach many tourist destinations you can get privately organised bus and minibus transport. Agents who sell tickets will tell you what you want to hear re: length of trip, quality and number of passengers. Most notorious are Bangkok to Siem Reap buses. Think about it; if your ticket is costing half the price of a public service ticket, you're going to get at least 50% quality and a pretty shit journey - be warned.

  • Motorbikes: Can be rented in any larger town and with care, are a great way to tour country routes.

  • Trains: Are cheap, easy, comfortable during the day and night (if a little cold at times) and let you see the country as you experience it, for more details see Thai Train System Explained

  • Airport: Since Bangkok is a major stop over it is worth mentioning that airport buses run from 0430 to 0030 and the fare is about 100B per person. You need the A2 for the Khao San Rd (the stop is Chakraphong Rd), for more info see here. Late at night a taxi is best (better with someone else). As always, ignore touts inside the terminal. Leave the terminal and follow the signs for Taxi to get to the rank (it's really close from the exit - you will see it from the terminal door), walk over and tell the attendant where you are going. They'll write it down on a form and give it to you. Stand in line and the driver will then take a portion of the ticket (or the attendant may give it directly to him/her) -  do not let the driver take the whole form - it has all his details on it. Key point (as always) is to make sure the driver turns the meter on – it starts at about 35B. If a driver refuses to put the meter on, or turns it off, tell him to take you back to the rank, or just get out and get another taxi - be firm. They try it on a lot. You will however have to pay the motorway toll if you travel into the city by this route, so don't be surprised if you are asked for some cash halfway through your journey. It's worth noting that the info and tourist advice desk in the airport is first class and if in doubt they can help with many matters.

  • Internal and international (local) flights: Air Asia and other carriers have a good and very reasonable network to KL, Chiang Mai, Penang, Siem Reap, Hanoi and beyond. Internal flights are equally pretty cheap.

• People vibe:

  • Locals: Generally nice, always smiling, but can get a little tourist-weary. The Thai are a proud race and this can result in some frosty behaviour toward travellers who don't show respect to it or to all tourists in general by some.

  • Other travellers: Increasingly many package holiday makers and those in early teens- almost every type of traveller it seems ends up in Bangkok at some time! Around the southern beach hot spots expect at some point to run into some of the worst types of independent travellers. As with India and Brazil, you can expect a large number of young Israeli travellers. Also expect to see a large number of (young and old) guys going around with Thai girls.

• Tourist factor: 9/10

• Communications: Slightly expensive international call centres. Good internet on the mainland and ADSL connections can even be found on popular islands such as Ko Pha Ngan. Post good value - best to send parcels at the 'slow air' (SAL) rate which is half the price of regular Air and usually take much less than the 1.5 months delivery time announced, in particularly if you register it (an additional B25) and put an airmail sticker on the package.

• URL: Liked Travel Fish - it's a great resource with good FAQ for first timers. Also see http://www.thai-experience.org for festival dates and volunteering

• Media:

  • Books: Loads of book shops in Bangkok, but not as good value as in Kathmandu or Saigon. Everyone seems to be reading 'The Beach' and for good reason. For more details, please click here.

  • TV: New release movies played in cafes and restaurants. If paying a little more for a room (mid-range standard), a TV with numerous international satellite channels is fairly common in tourist centres.

• Food: Great, but can be very spicy - eat off the street for best food. Banana pancakes may well be the tastiest food on earth. Seafood excellent.

  • Vegetarians: No problem. If unsure you can always ask for 'Buddhist' meals.

• Guidebook: Various, available in Bangkok (but not cheaper than at home) No recommendations, you don't really need one on the beaten track. Plus both the Rough Guide and LP are far from brilliant. Click here for a good list of Thai links.

• What to take: You might hear a lot about taking your own padlock. The reason for this is that the doors of some hotel rooms, normally the cheaper ones, lock only with a padlock. Take one for sure, but you will find that most budget places insist that you use their padlock (don't lose the key - they will charge you the earth). You can always chain your bag to the bed, but if the place really feels that dodgy, stay elsewhere. See the what to pack section for all the normal recommendations.

• Hassle and annoyance factor: Very limited, some beggars and touts. Anyone with half a brain will tell you not to buy drugs off tuk-tuk drivers or gems off their best mate/uncle.

  • Women alone: Lone female travellers are fairly common. Be careful at night and in bars where drink drugging have occurred (Ko Phan Ngan has the current reputation).

• Rating: 7/10

» Vietnam - See Indochina page

Others

• Brunei: is essentially a fairly expensive few days side-trip, if in East Malaysia

• Papa New Guinea: where the Banana Pancake Trail crowds really thin out, a great alternative destination, but difficult to get around. Port Moresby has a bad reputation and is not inviting. No onward overland transport to Australia

One of the best sources of planning information in Asia is Trailblazer's 'Asia Overland', although the Cambodia chapter is very out-of-date. However there is a new version of this book out that focuses just on South East Asia. It is a fantastic guide made up of hand-drawn maps packed with great information. It's called South-East Asia: A Graphical Guide and is by the same author as Asia Overland - Mark Elliott.

 For a full list of planning guides, recommended guide books and reading material, please click here.

"A short pen is better than a long memory"

Confucius

[ back to top ]   /    [ back to country index ]   /   [ home ]   /   [ comment/contribute ]   /   [ reading & resources ]