On the Road

Here is the complete page of factors you need to give consideration to when you are away backpacking / travelling and how to deal with them. This section contains a lot of information and being a large document, will be slow to load (but you've probably figured that out already now - if you want to view this page in two parts, click here for the first half and here for the second.

First half listed in this order, jump to: getting ill and staying healthy moving around sleeping and accommodation looking after your things/avoiding crime dealing with beggars and hassle bargaining responsible tourism guidebooks

Second half listed in this order, jump to: staying in touch eating and vegetarianism English language media and books washing clothes cultural expectations and culture shock toilets buying counterfeit goods details on drugs and vice and other tips

 

    Getting ill and staying healthy

Montezuma's revenge, the Delhi belly, worship to the porcelain god... call it what you like, food poisoning is an unfortunate caveat of travel and can strike at anytime and at any place. You will probably be at a mystery as to what has caused it and you just have to wait it out. It's effects are horrible, but it doesn't last long in most cases. There seems to be two types: one that will come on suddenly (often in the middle of the night) and see you throwing up all night, feeling pretty shit the next day and that's it, and the other, much worse, will come on slower and last several days. The difference is probably viral or bacterial poison getting into your stomach. The latter is more serious and could be something much nastier. There are literary dozens of different straits of both and pointless to cover then here, but most encountered (normally bacterial) aren't too serious.

Best advice: don't get paranoid about food poisoning otherwise it can ruin a trip and your experiences of some great food. Just allow time for it and take the rough with the smooth, as it were - there is very little you can do about it once the poison is inside you apart from avoiding dehydration (Gatorade type sports drinks are much easier to drink than water and will replace a little energy/salt) and let it come out of you (in whatever form - NB severe and continual vomiting that is preventing you from keeping water down and/or retching for long periods can be treated by tablets or an injection; either way consult a doctor if symptoms are persisting. Staff in your hotel will normally help you find medical help or bring you water et cetera if on your own). See diarrhoea and dehydration below as it is normally a symptom of food poisoning, for more advice.

Some of the easiest places to get ill are where there are large numbers of tourists and the locals have adapted by offering western type food. Nepal and Ecuador are good examples. You might never have a problem in India, eating Indian food, but suffer in Nepal eating western food. To quote from a book about climbing Mount Everest, the author stated that the hardest challenge with mountaineering in Nepal is not getting sick in Kathmandu! But that doesn't mean that every trip to Nepal, India or the like will see you with the runs or throwing up; a normal healthy experience is quite possible with a bit of common sense and a fair size chunk of luck. It goes without saying that the longer you are away the higher your chances of picking something up becomes.

The ‘boil it, cook it, peel it, or forget it!' adage is well documented. So are all the cold salads, ice cubes in drinks, fruit juices, hand-made ice creams, raw food and buffet warnings. Bacteria and injected water can be inside melons, so it's best to avoid melons. In reality you can never know - personally I've eaten all of the above which are risky, and been fine, but do believe that eating a carnivorous diet you run a much higher chance of getting ill (chicken is often reheated). Just remember, you may go a year and not have a problem or get ill on your first day in somewhere like Crete. It's something of a lottery.

The equatorial and Australian sun is vicious and although you can't really avoid some exposure, there is no point in incurring it needlessly. Basically, build up your exposure gradually and cover up in the middle of the day. Be particularly careful when swimming or snorkelling, at altitude, when on open transport or any other actively that prolongs your exposure to midday sun such as hiking. Common-sense really, but getting burnt really isn't fun as most will be able to testify, however a paranoid approach during day to day activities and zero exposure is unnecessary.

Rabies can be carried by any mammal, normally monkeys, dogs or any wild animal behaving in an unusually tame manner (just give them a wide berth). Any suspect bite should be scrubbed under running water for five minutes and flooded with diluted iodine or other disinfectant. A post-bite injection is needed as soon as possible, even if you have paid out and suffered the immunization jabs. The further from the brain the bite is the longer the incubation period (which can be quite long). Do make sure you get an injection within a day or three (unless the bite is to the face) no matter how far from civilisation you are. Once symptoms appear, death from rabies is probably the worst way to go. Tetanus is caught from deep, dirty wounds including animal bites. Make sure wounds are thoroughly cleaned and that you have had the immunisation that gives good protection for ten years. If not, get a booster as quickly as possible.

Medical problem	Percentage
Any problem	55%
Felt sick	25%
Visited a doctor	8%
Had to stay in bed	6%
Could not go to work afterwards	2%
Diarrhoea
Travellers diarrhoea	30-80%
Severe diarrhoea	6%
Malaria
Malaria in W-Africa while NOT taking prophylaxis	2.4%
Malaria in E-Africa while NOT taking prophylaxis	1.5%
Other places: see footnote*	-
Hepatitis
Hepatitis	-
Hepatitis A: see footnote**	0.3 to 2%
Hepatitis B***	0.085%

    Moving around

Moving around.. that's why they call it travelling. You end up doing a lot of it: sitting on buses, trains and taxis - at best; at worst, night buses, the back of pick-up trucks or below-par boats.

Travelling, it's a great leveller - everyone needs to spend time getting places. It's something you will have to get used to and the fact is, it's not always very comfortable. You'll also probably not be prepared for how far distances are (for example Chile top to bottom is the same as Lagos to London!) and how bad roads can be. Paul Theroux hit the nail on the head when he wrote 'travel is glamorous only in retrospect'.

You really need to look at the country summaries for exact details, since transport and options vary dramatically from country to country. Some countries will have fantastic train systems (India, China) in others, rollerskates would be more useful. Developed countries will normally have good roads, but bus/train prices are generally pretty expensive and hiring/buying a car may be a much better option. The roads and distances in less developed countries, especially crossing mountains or high areas can mean even though buses are cheap, every now and again an air ticket makes sense. And then there are the dreaded night buses, all of which are mentioned below:

» Trains: These can often be slower, colder, more expensive and more impractical than buses. However, in the right places (India, China, Egypt, Tanzania, Zimbabwe and Europe to name a few) they're great. They have the benefit that you can normally get a good night's sleep. Make sure you don't end up for a prolonged period in third class on a Chinese or Indian train, just for the sake of a few Rupees or Yuan - it won't be much fun after the third or fourth hour. Be extra mindful of your things at night, as theft is rampant on popular routes (i.e. Agra to Varanasi) - chain possessions up and keep them near. Also be aware that trains can get very cold at night with AC left on full blast or at high altitudes (many South American trains). (See image - Indian Train) » Buses: Its buses that you will end up on more than often. You may well feel you are spending most of your trip on a bus. They vary significantly, normally in less developed countries being cheap, mainly efficient (okay, you sometimes get a break-down) and with frequent departures. In more developed countries it's the opposite. In some places like Thailand and Turkey, buses are a joy. Many countries have a cheap state run bus line and private (faster, bit more expensive) options to complement it. You soon get used to picking the right types, times, companies and seats - there is more most travellers could say about those considerations than anything else on this site! It's what they and you will have the most experience of! » Night Buses: Loved and hated. Basically you get on a bus in the evening and the theory is you wake up refreshed in a new place, saving a day and a night's accommodation. What really happens is you don't get much sleep on the bus, feel shit the next day, save very little on your accommodation, lose a day because you sleep the next and freeze if AC is left on all night or worse still a TV/ loud conversation. Even with all this in mind you will still use them despite being much more unsafe and allowing you to see less than in the day, because distances can be so great and time so precious. Make your own choices (although sometimes there's not much of one). (See image - Chinese sleeper bus, although this type with beds on the bus are not typical outside China.) » Mini Buses: Many countries have privately owned small mini-buses running certain routes faster, a little bit more expensively and more frequently than big buses. The general norm is the drivers of these buses think they are in a grand prix and there's always room for one more. Despite their lack of comfort (you can always buy two seats) and dangers you may well end up taking these buses, as they are practical and quick for short to medium distance trips. » Buying, hiring or thumbing a car: In developed countries and especially in New Zealand, Australia, USA, South Africa (Namibia & Botswana) and Western Europe, buying/hiring is a great idea, and will give you rewards never expected. Be sure to shop around. If buying, know what you are buying and make sure you have time to sell it. If hiring read the contract bloody carefully and try to leave your deposit on a credit card that you can cancel, just in case they try to screw you for something like a scratch that has always been there, knowing you have little recourse. In New Zealand and everywhere else for that matter, in the peak season the cheapest rentals go fast - surf the net and book ahead. Hire car relocations are also something worth considering. They don't give you much time, but if the timings are right they are a very cost effective way of getting around in Oz, NZ and the USA. Hitchhiking is possible in developed countries, especially NZ, Chile, USA, Europe and Israel, but can be a pain in the arse. Hitchhiking in less developed countries is less advisable - aside from the safety risk you will probably be expected to pay for your ride.

Backpacker Buses In destinations like Australia, New Zealand and South Africa, backpacker hop-on/hop-off type buses run. Do not commit yourself to these at home (even with small discounts offered) - they sound a good idea, but for many aren't and they are not recommended here unless you are travelling alone or have very limited time. These buses are nowhere near as wild as their operators like to make out and can be full of idiots that you have no other choice but to travel with. In essence you are buying into a tour and paying more for something you could do yourself with greater satisfaction. Really these sorts of buses only become a good option in destinations where public transport is very limited/expensive, if you need to be guaranteed social interaction and if getting hold of a car is not an option for you (too expensive, can't drive or share costs with anyone). The African tour buses that ply between Nairobi and Victoria Falls or Cape Town in East/South Africa are the most contentious issue when it comes to independent travel and backpacker buses. They generally transport twenty or so 15-30 somethings (normally British, Australian or Kiwi) through areas of Africa where public transport is sometimes slim and distances are vast, but most importantly take you through national parks (which can sometimes cost the same price as a tour and be difficult to gain access to if visited independently). Everyone in the bus works as a team and cooks, eats, cleans and sleeps together (in tents). Tours are normally purchased through the South African or British companies that run them. Therefore your money rarely stays in Africa and you give very little back to the countries you're visiting. Overland buses are a contentious issue. Travel in Africa is something most travellers are concerned about and the tours give you the best (sights wise) of a very large continent in a quick period and their patrons (who are normally lone travellers) generally have had a good time with their peers. So those are the pluses: the converse argument is that these trips can be done independently (Nairobi to Vic Falls/Cape Town is a huge tourist trail and small tours can be taken up in order to get you into game parks), the groups on the buses are sometimes more into drinking beers and playing music on the stereo than being interested in where they are and finally, as touched on earlier, you give very little back to the nations you rapidly traverse. Having never done one of these tours there's no opinion expressed here (although from this site in general you should be able to gauge it). The objective is to present both sides of the argument, heard many times, always defended furiously. The short of it is: You can do this independently even by yourself as a female and if you have the slightest inclination towards independence, feel you would feel confined travelling with the same group of people or require spontaneity, then think twice before booking something like this. The fact is that if you have the time, independent travel will be much more rewarding (Africa and travel in general is about people more than anything else) and when travelling independently you will meet loads of other travellers anyway. It is very common to see these tour buses offering cheap rides from Vic Falls (coming from Nairobi) to Cape Town (to get people on a plane home). This is because they often have lots of empty seats through drop outs on the way, which speaks volumes.

»Shared taxis/jeeps and bush taxis: A shared taxi is generally used for short legs where there is no or limited public transport, but the route is fairly standard, for example from a border town to the border. These taxis generally leave from a set point and do in many cases make longer trips. For longer trips they are perhaps the fastest and more comfortable of all four wheeled transport options if not too crowded. There are many routes worldwide where onward transport is both harsh and impractical. In these cases taxi drivers or car owners (sometimes guides) can be approached for a price (they normally offer). This price is going to be high so you really need to split it between three/four. A bush taxi or taxi brousse is a West African phenomenon (particularly French West Africa) and in no way comfortable. Bush taxis are always private, but rarely does the driver own the vehicle, and are effectively a small bus. Almost without exception a bush taxi will leave when full (or when all seats are sold) not by a timetable. Depending on the popularity of the route this can take half an hour or even several days. If you are early you can choose where you sit: late comers have no choice - sitting in the front is the best and worst is the back (the side with no shade is also pretty bad). If a bush/private taxi looks like it is going to get uncomfortably full or take ages to fill, you can buy extra seats at the same price as your one or even charter the whole thing. In some cases you are going to be asked for more money for a big bag. On some occasions when the taxi is taking ages to fill up some passengers will club together to buy remaining seats and get going. If this happens or you personally buy an extra seat, don't expect a discount - time is not money in the third world. Best get a bush taxi early in the morning or on a market day. There are a few different types of bush taxi in West Africa, most a moving form of torture. To find out more see the West African country summaries.

» Flying: It's sometimes the case that internal flights are great value for money, a godsend and commonly overlooked by budget travellers. Certainly in the developed world, flying can be cheaper than the overland option, but more often than not it's a more expensive luxury option, but you save a hell of a lot of time and more importantly sanity, especially when crossing difficult terrain such as mountains or water. Not to mention as so many times is the case, where overland travel just simply isn't possible or physical/visa barriers create major hassle. Many budget travellers think they can't afford flights, but if you are lucky, do your homework and try and book early, costs aren't prohibitive and if you allow for a few in your budget you will feel a lot happier especially if doing a big trip over long distances. Tickets are easy to pick up while away and please remember that flights are always cheapest in their originating country or booked on the budget carriers website.

A quick note... On buses, other public transport and bus stations, especially at night, keep any small bags you have at very close quarters. Neither overhead storage nor under your seat can be guaranteed 100% safe in many places - especially if you are dozing. There's no need to be paranoid, but a strap around your leg or a simple and quick wire-lock will give you peace of mind and possibly save your trip from being seriously tarnished. Liken this to putting a seat belt on. If you have never been in an accident, it seems pretty pointless. However, with hindsight it seems more than sensible even when you don't feel like it or feel the situation fits. In regions like Latin America and Africa, it is more than good sense. The same goes with walking at night with your bag if it can be at all avoided.

The huge growth in budget airlines, aka. low-cost carriers and technology means many carriers now operate good websites and issue e-tickets. Take a look at the budget airline list in the links section and make a few searches (try Air Asia for example) to see just how easy and cheap flying has now become. It's worth noting that this explosion has happened in Asia and Europe of course with North America (inc. Mexico) not far behind, but South America and Africa are practically miles behind - see regional low-down below.  The only warning to offer is that this is no secret and on notoriously painful routes in peak seasons (say Christmas), popular legs like Bombay to Goa get booked pretty solid and prices go through the roof.

 

Budget Airline low-down

Australia, New Zealand and the Pacific: Prior to 2000 cheap-fare alternatives to Qantas and Ansett had failed, but then came Virgin Blue (www.virginblue.com) and Jetstar (www.jetstar.com), which both have excellent domestic coverage with fares from about 35USD. Virgin Blue also flies to the Pacific Islands (getting to Fiji, Tongo or Samoa, will cost about 400USD return) and Jetstar into Asia – Bali and Bangkok among others. Skywest (www.skywest.com.au) is worth noting for Perth to Broome (skipping the Gibb River Road). Between Australia and New Zealand, Freedom Air (www.freedomair.co.nz) has cheap flights from about 135USD and competition is fierce with Jetconnect (see Qantas NZ site) and Jetstar. Between Oz and NZ routes such as Brisbane to Christchurch and Melbourne to Dunedin make exploring much more effective than the standard Sydney to Auckland route.

Indian and Sri Lanka: 2003 saw the launch of the first Indian low-cost: Air Deccan (www.flyairdeccan.net) which had great prices, but some bizarre fare rules and since has inspired many imitators. Routes are numerous so best to check the carriers websites or the India section of this site for a better overview. Remember also this is India and what can go wrong (delays, cancellations, etc) probably will. Good carriers include, SpiceJet wwww.spicejet.com), GoAir (www.goair.in), and IndiGo Airlines (www.goindigo.in). With Kingfisher (www.flykingfisher.com) and Jet Airlines (www.jetairways.com) included you have coverage of about 50 domestic destinations and several international including London. Many of these airlines offer passes if you really want to see a lot in short time, but considering distances in India you might find some fares not inline with the average Indian travel budget. Both Sri Lankan Airways and Mihin Air can get you to Sri Lanka. 

South East Asia: The main payers are Tiger Airways (www.tigerairways.com ) which has a great routes and can connect you to the Philippines dirt cheap and Jetstar Asia Airways (www.jetstarasia.comcom), these two are based in Singapore which was home to the regions first budget airline. Across the border AirAsia (www.airasia.com) is very useful for Borneo and getting to islands of Penang and Langkawi; they are expanding fast and offer a Bangkok to Hanoi route for about 50US$ which is incredibly handy - as well as loads of other routes and sometimes (promotional) silly prices. Thailand's Nok Air (www.nokair.com) also has a burgeoning network from Bangkok and Pacific Airlines (www.pacificairlines.com.vn) of Vietnam seems to be making the restructuring steps to be come a low-cost carrier too. Indonesia's Adam Air, doesn't have the best reputation, but Air Asia and Lion Air (www.lionair.co.id) or good alternative and can get you from Jakarta to Bali for (if you get the timing right) about 40US$.

North America: Southwest Airlines (www.southwest.com) started the whole no-frills budget airline revolution back-in 1971 and was the model that Ryan Air copied which snowballed cheap flights in Europe and around the world. Southwest now have plenty of competition, flying to all parts of the US of A, south of the border to Mexico and into the Caribbean - carriers are too numerous to list here and normally specialise in a particular region or route, but easily revealed by a few web searches. In Canada several low cost carriers have folded, but WestJet (www.westjet.com) serves many cities and the States too. After the sell off of state-owned Mexicana, Mexico got its own budget carrier and many followed suit, the best of which are Aviacsa (www.aviacsa.com) and Aero California (www.aerocalifornia.com) both of which have English language websites. Click Mexicana (www.clickmx.com) is also worth a mention.

South America: Really the low-costs airlines have only taken route in Brazil, but still they have some useful links with some flying internationally to the big hubs across the continent. Gol (www.voegol.com.br) is the most famous and connected. Other options include BRA (www.voebra.com.br) and Ocean Air (www.oceanair.com.br). In both Chile and Argentina you will find several option and elsewhere state and private carriers (if you book right) can be an okay price, but aren't set up for self-booking on the net. In fact self-booking and using the budget airline or state network in South America just isn't as easy or as practical as in Europe or Asia with some site being Spanish or Portuguese only, not accepting foreign cards or just not offer online booking, but things are sure to change.

Africa: As with much in Africa, things are patchy at best with as you might expect, few low-cost set up airlines. In South Africa, Kulula (www.kulula.com) has an expanding network in Southern Africa and Mango (www.flymango.com) is South African Airlines response. Also worth a mention is Precision Air (www.precisionairtz.com) domestic in Tanzania and Fly540 (www.fly540.com) in Kenya - with very few routes at present it seems keen on expanding and hopefully so in a continent where getting from North, South, East, West by air can be stupidly expensive.

Middle East: Air Arabia is the Middle East's first low cost airline and has some great value flights around gulf states and further airfield to India, Sri Lanka and Pakistan, among others. It's based in Sharjah which is a little bit of pricey taxi ride north of Dubai. While hops around the gulf won't be of much interest to most travellers, the potential to use cheap flights from Europe and particular London to Dubai as a stepping-stone to other more interesting destinations might be. On to India is great value and there are some interesting routes into Central Asia, Nepal and Yemen. Another mention is Jazeera Airways (www.jazeeraairways.com), which has flights from Kuwait and Dubai to India, Egypt, etc, with plans for more routes.

    Sleeping / accommodation

» Developing countries (guesthouses): 

Rooms vary dramatically in quality and value. Finding a good room or a good deal is more of an art than a science. The normal approach for most travellers is to go through their guidebooks, scanning for any hidden hints. Let's Go at least lists hotels in preference and Footprint works on readers' recommendations, but other than those, guidebooks leave you in the dark; many good places to stay made famous by guidebooks become crowded, noisy, full of themselves and non flexible on price.

A guidebook (see image) is a great guide when you first arrive, but don't think you have to stay in a hotel listed within its pages; there are many choices and hey, guidebooks openly state they don't stay in the hotels, yet give recommendations on them! Go figure. It's also nice to give an unlisted little guy a shot at some tourist dollars. The most important factors are cleanliness, quiet, safety and price - you can rank these as you see fit. You get a pretty good feeling from a place just popping in and seeing a room - remember, if you think it has potential, but don't like the room you saw (often the nearest and noisiest) ask to see another. Also in pretty much all cases try to get a little discount especially for multiple nights. If you have the energy, try to look at a few hotels to compare - normally just by saying 'well thanks, but we normally check out a few places' the price will drop.

You can have a lot of success finding the main noisy traveller hotel area, then heading back a few streets to some random hotels that have never been in any guidebooks, and getting some fantastic, very quiet and great priced rooms. Many travellers also have a lot of success with slightly more mid-range hotels (just above the entry level and sometimes aimed at domestic business travellers) and slightly smarter looking places (particularly in low seasons). It takes a little nerve going in, hoping that they do give you a good price - seeing as most of their rooms are sometimes empty - and not the normal price that you probably don't want to pay. On many occasions you find yourself in really nice rooms with cable TV and fluffy white towels, for only a few dollars more (and sometimes no more) than the standard budget option. Although with looking for a slightly nicer rooms in poorer countries you can run into the law of diminishing returns pretty quickly, where paying a lot more gets you little extra after a certain point.

Remember, if you are paying extra for anything in a room like a bathroom, TV or AC, make sure it works when you see the room. Cheaper rooms in developing countries very rarely have sprung mattress (foam is most common) and sometimes have protective plastic covers over them under the sheets. Coupled with noise levels, heat (see below) and the standard, single often hard pillow when using cheaper accommodation, this can take a little getting used to (particularly when coming directly from home) and will generally result in a few restless nights. In hot climates you may also find the lack of a top sheet. Asking the staff normally gets you one, but here's where a sleeping sac comes in pretty useful.

» Developed countries (hostels): 

In developed countries, noise and heat is rarely a problem, but accommodation is more limited and on the whole not cheap (a budget double room (dorms will of course be cheaper) in a Sydney hostel will cost around US$65, in New York US$85). In Europe and some other places you can find a few little cheap hotels, but for the rest and certainly in big cities, hostels will be a staple. In developed countries (for example: Western Europe, Australia and the USA (New Zealand & South Africa, both less of a problem)), accommodation and finding it is an entirely different ball game compared to the second and third world and if on a budget you will certainly have to make use of hostels at some point which get very crowded during peak seasons.

In Europe primarily, University accommodation converts to hostels accommodation during summer months - these are a good bet for a room, but you won't find them in any internet searches or guidebooks. In NZ (and others, such as the excellent Southern African Coast to Coast) there are fantastic hostel guides with ratings compiled from yearly surveys, distances from town centres and facilities. These are free to pick up and mean you never need to use your guidebook. The BBH in New Zealand is the best and really shows up guidebook listings.

A YHA card can get you some discount, but you won't use it that often; the same goes for Hosteling International - but both are good networks. VIP is another similar network mainly in Australia/NZ, where you pay upfront for a discount card. Some find great value, others dislike the style of hostel and don't use the card enough to recover the initial cost. Lastly be wary of hostels that have lock-outs from say 1000-1600 when everyone has to get out for cleaning. These are common in some of Europe and especially in Japan - the bathroom goes mad at 0930!

 

» Other options: 

    Looking after your things - avoiding crime

Crime is one of the most difficult things to write about in context in this guide. Dwelling on the subject must inevitably fuel paranoia in first-time travellers, yet glossing over it can only place inexperienced travellers at greater risk of being robbed. Simplistically, you need to recognise three things. The first is that Asian and Africa (and to a lesser extent Latin American) society is inherently far more law-abiding than our own (to the extent that criminals are stoned in some countries). The second is that thieves will be present on your trip, as they are everywhere, and they often target westerners, who are not only reliably wealthy relative to locals, but who also are very easy to spot. And thirdly, a little bit of paranoia never hurt anyone - take care and you will have a great trip. Ignore this advice and you might end up with nothing and your trip in ruins - I've seen it happen at close quarters too many times.

A degree of discrimination and caution is appropriate when you travel, but only a degree. Bear in mind that people with a criminal intent make up a tiny fraction of less than 1% of the population, so that an attitude of indiscriminate paranoia, wherever you are, can only divert your attention away from genuinely suspicious characters. Experience suggests that the vast majority of crimes against tourists occur in one of a few specific places and/or reasonably predictable circumstances. Imagine those that will cause you trouble (minor or major) are like four leaf clovers. We all know they exist, but very few have actually come across one. Nevertheless the longer you spend in the grass the higher your chances become of finding one.

 

» Securing your money: 

As commonly stated when they cannot be stored safely elsewhere (such as you are on a bus with your main bag), keep all your important documents and most of your money, in a money-belt or similar that can be worn beneath your clothing in a manner that makes it invisible to casual observers. Some travellers seem to carry all their money and documents with them at all times (not just when on the move). Normally in a money belt sometimes not even under their clothing - this is always good for a laugh. Not only did they not splash out on reasonable clothing with secure pockets or make any effort to secure pockets/money, but keeping your money belt on the outside of your clothing is like displaying your family jewels on your front door step. Under or over clothing, it's uncomfortable in hot weather and it will almost certainly be removed if you are actually mugged. Do however keep your money belt on or at close hand when travelling on a bus/train and separated from your main bag unless it is at very close hand and 100% secure.

You should avoid disclosing the presence of this belt in public, so keep spending money in a pocket or elsewhere (better to lose a few bucks once in a while that everything along with your passport). It is also advisable to keep a reasonable amount of currency well hidden in your luggage (US$/€100 bill) as something to fall back on. One of the best places to carry money is in the top pocket of a shirt (some put a handkerchief or tissue on top of it as an extra measure). Or inside a pocket (zipped) that's inside a pocket, or in a pouch/purse/wallet attached to your clothing. Don't carry your money around in a big wallet: take out just what you need for the day and maybe your student and ATM/credit card (don't carry these around unnecessarily). A big paper clip works well as a money clip and is a good way to deal with the large amounts of notes you end up with. See comment for some more advice and testament that there are loads of variations in keeping your money safe - it's what works for you.

Always keep a record of what funds you have stashed, so if anything does go missing you'll know instantly. Personally I'd would leave my money belt almost anywhere in preference to walking with it through downtown Johannesburg, Cusco, Delhi, Bogotá, San Jose or Nairobi (to name a few) after dark.

Another important measure to take is to lock your bag up when not in the room with it or when someone else is in the room. If necessary (i.e. when windows don't lock or in a dodgy place) lock/chain it to something. In addition, make sure your real valuables are well hidden. A little cash, old passport/old credit card can be used as a decoy. Normally you should have far greater reservations regarding the security of serviced mid-range hotels than the flimsiest of security at rural family run establishments. It's a good idea to bring your own padlock, preferably a combination lock, to put on the door if possible (but then again if you don't trust the place that much, why are you staying there?). When out and about and travelling (i.e. on a bus), always know where your bag is and if you can keep an eye on it, making sure it is stored securely or locked to something if in doubt. Your passport/money should be on your person. This is very important with a small bag and on overnight trains where theft is rampant.

The best place to keep any jewellery or the likes of anything with high financial or sentimental value is at home.

 

 

» Violent crime, mugging and armed theft:

This is relatively rare and only really occurs in Latin America and Africa and then normally at night in large cities. If you are going to get robbed/attacked then there's little you can do about it and you are very unlucky, but that's why we have insurance. There are plenty of fools about and you hear only a few stories of something bad happening to someone without them doing something a little stupid or naive, like walking around randomly at night or being drunk. That said you can go a long way to avoid being mugged by applying the same sort of judgment you might in any large city. Don't flaunt your wealth - this means don't wear any jewellery and avoid tourist trappings such as a daypack, camera bag and external money-belt. Use a taxi to get around obvious trouble spots and at night. If you do walk at night (especially when alone) avoid unlit roads, parks and quiet alleys.

» Pick pocketing and casual theft:

Most casual thieves and pickpockets operate in busy markets and bus/train stations, so keep a close watch on your possessions in such places. Bus stations in Latin America see a fair few bags go missing from those who idly watch them or are easily distracted (it doesn't take much to lock or clip a bag to a fixed object). When catching a bus, having a compact bag makes life much easier. Simply aim to get out of bus stations quickly, pay attention during the human crush getting on and off town buses and follow the advice given above regarding how to carry your money. Quite frankly there is no reason to carry around anything near to a large sum of money in your pockets. If you have been to the ATM or bank, drop it off or secure it first. If you don't, you only have yourself to blame.

The raise of portable electronic devices such as mobile phones, digital cameras or MP3 players which almost all travellers seem to take away with them has resulted in an equally matched rise in the number of these items disappearing. Whereas the vast, vast majority of the world has in general low levels of violent crime and a low threat of terrorism or other dangerous activities, petty theft, however, is becoming increasingly common, and travellers should take precautions, especially with mobile phones, digital cameras, and other small electronics which are easily “misplaced.”

 

If all this section makes you think twice about your trip... don't worry -

'Just like there are two different types of people, there are two different types of days travelling: M and F. Well F stands for fine, now most people think M stands for miserable - wrong, memorable. Many travellers like to remind themselves that a bad day travelling is better than a good day at work'. On the once excellent (now over commercial) Lonely Planet website there is a section called postcards, which mainly consists of notes written by those who have been unlucky enough to fall victim to crime to warn others of it. On the whole this is completely unrepresentative and tends to make you quite nervous, but is always worth a read as it's a good reference of the latest scams and will make sure you keep your guard up with a measure of paranoia in the best possible way. Remember, better a little paranoid than naive and the victim of crime.

    Dealing with hassle and beggars

In many destinations worldwide, dealing with the day to day hassle of touts, sellers and the constant need to bargain is just something you will have to get used to, especially in North Africa and the Asian Sub-Continent. Beggars are a more universal problem: hell, there are quite a few even in the richest countries. Nevertheless, beggars differ quite substantially in the less developed world. With a large proportion of its population living in poverty, even those with homes and jobs, those who do beg can be considered in dire straits: they are often women, children and the ill or disabled. Your heart strings are easily tugged by child beggars and the very poor or misfortunate: landmine victims, those with multiple sclerosis or polio, victims of earthquakes or other recent disasters. Those are just a few examples - the point is guilt can over ride you. You live in comfort and have everything, compared to their nothing. But such feelings of benevolence cannot be sustained, such is the volume of human misery around the world and you soon, in many cases, become impervious to it. Those who set off on a third world trip with notions of philanthropy will soon be overwhelmed and cut short.

Your compassion is tested when your trip is compromised by sometimes constant hassle, even when you are eating in restaurants, and when you consider that begging can be big business. In India for example, parents have been known to inflict a physical disability on children to insure begging income. Children are often begging because they have been sent out to do so, often in gangs and some beggars directly target tourists. Reiterating what you'll find below under responsible tourism: do not give to beggars that are specifically targeting tourists and especially not to children (not pens, sweets or anything) something most travellers flaunt. Of course compassion is required, but it can more effectively delivered through some of the ethical considerations below and also by giving in small quantities where locals give (make a point of giving if you have not been asked) and/or to schools plus recognised charities. In the long run however you can (and probably will) just get very worn down by beggars - read on how to deal with hassle.

    Bargaining

Constant bargaining is something else you will probably have to deal with and it really is (in 8/10 cases, but which ones?) a they win, you lose situation, as the smart seller's way is normally to massively inflate the price for ignorant tourists. The actual price can be up to ten times less than the starting price and it is when you hear these quotations and know the correct/fair price and have to spend so much time and effort to achieve something close to it, is when you get so frustrated. If so count to ten and move onto the next vendor and make it clear why you are doing so. This almost always happens in locations that have a large tourist footfall. Many traders are honest and getting a little ripped-off is just a fact of travelling - after all, you can afford it, so don't get too enthusiastic or disillusioned.

This subject still needs more explanation as it's often misrepresented in guide books and by other travellers, who sometimes assert that every price is negotiable. This is a half truth, almost always applicable to souvenir sellers, taxi, rickshaw etc. drivers and a few others that become clear when on the road, but not always in other situations depending in large measure on the nature of the country you are in.

Prices are always going to be higher in a sellers market than a buyers one, so if you need something like a long distance ride in a taxi or a souvenir where there is much competition don't get too enthusiastic and waiting to be approached rather than approaching works wonders. Equally the western mentality of asking a price and retreating if not interested can be considered as an insult. Bottom line is if you don't have serious intentions of buying - don't ask the price and certainly don't start negotiating, doing so will only invite hassle.

It goes without saying that the problem facing the traveller going from town to town and country to country is knowing when they are being asked a fair price, and thus hitting the right balance between politely paying up and aggressive posturing to establish if they are being ripped off. To complicate the matter further is the notion of a fixed price, as locals will bargain as well. The best approach is to visit a few stalls and get a feel for a price (walking away will always lower a very high price) and if a stall owner is reluctant to negotiate, you can assume you have a fair price. Likewise quotations that start with the word 'around' or 'something like' are certainly far off realistic. However let's keep things in perspective, in experience it is only in areas with a high tourist volume that absurd prices are asked and everyone seems keen to add there own little commission.

As stated, tourist souvenir sellers (especially African curio sellers and mass tourism areas of Asia) in particular always ask an inflated price. These are often so whimsical that you can't really have a rule of thumb. But even when buying curio (African wooden carvings) and similar, you can bargain too far. Have watched a couple off an overland truck in Malawi buy a carving which the seller wanted the equivalent of US$10 for. It was a nice piece and probably took about two to three days to make. Generally the going price for an item like this would be US$7 which the seller soon dropped to. However the couple then spent the next 15 minutes getting him down to US$5. Another example that was e-mailed, was in Sumatra, where one of a tourist group hassled a stall keeper to a point where she sold an item for a 5 cent profit. This sort of behaviour is disgraceful and goes on all the time (see the 'value of your money' write up in the following section). Rather than giving to beggars, consider being a little generous when dealing with individual souvenir and fruit sellers (not large stalls).

One argument often heard is that travellers have an ethical duty to bargain prices as low as possible, otherwise they risk triggering inflation that will eventually put goods out of the reach of locals. If you think hard about this, apart from a few extreme cases, you'll only see this sort of statement to be obnoxiously self-serving.

Overcharging on transport, public or otherwise, is common place in many countries and there is little you can do about it except be philosophical. Nobody likes being ripped off but if that's the price, you have to pay it and if it is a little inflated then why should a few dollars extra ruin your day/trip? That said, always arrange a price before you get into a taxi or any other mode of transport: ask a local if unsure. Some drivers are very good with 'as you like' or 'cheap' type sayings, mimicking bad English. Be firm - don't get bullied. If there is no meter, agree a fair price before you set off.

 

    Responsible tourism

Travel to the furthest corners of the globe is now commonplace. The mass movement of people for leisure and indeed business is a major source of foreign exchange and economic development in many parts of the world. The benefits of travel are self-evident for both host and travellers. However, there is a big downside, with tourism far from being the smokeless industry it is self-promoted as. Impacts can seem remote, like the pollution caused by your air travel, but individual choices and awareness can make a difference and collectively, travellers can effectively shape a more responsible and sustainable industry. The following considerations are solely a few ideas, but should always be borne in mind:

• Avoid giving to beggars who you can see are specifically targeting tourists. It creates more hassle for future tourists and a non-sustainable dependence. See dealing with hassle and beggars above.

• Spend money on locally produced (rather than imported) goods and use common sense when bargaining - your few bucks saved may be a day's income or more .

• Learn about local etiquette and culture (the 'culture shock' series is very good if this is something you want to do in-depth, otherwise the front/back of your guidebook and a few questions is normally sufficient). Consider local norms and behaviour, especially dress appropriately (the biggest sinners are normally Americans, Australians and (the norm) Israelis) for local cultures and situations.

• Use water and electricity carefully - travellers may receive preferential supply while locals are overlooked.

• Don't buy souvenirs or goods made from wildlife, no matter how cool, unless they are clearly sustainable. The same goes with removing antiquities, whether bought or nabbed by you, from the country. Besides being unethical, the above can land you in trouble on the border.

• By getting involved in illegal activities such as purchasing drugs or prostitution, you are supporting an industry that ends in misery for suppliers (and sometimes buyers). A good example is the quest to rid poppy cr