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Here is the
complete page of factors you need to give
consideration to when you are away backpacking / travelling and how to deal with
them. This section contains a lot of information and being a
large document, will be slow to load (but you've probably figured that out
already now - if you want to view this page in two parts, click
here for the first half and
here for the second.
Getting ill and staying healthy
Montezuma's revenge, the Delhi belly, worship to the
porcelain god... call it what you like, food poisoning is an
unfortunate caveat of travel and can strike at anytime and
at any place. You will probably be at a mystery as to what has caused
it and you just have to wait it out. It's effects are horrible, but
it doesn't last long in most cases. There seems to be two types: one
that will come on suddenly (often in the middle of the night) and see
you throwing up all night, feeling pretty shit the next day and that's
it, and the other, much worse, will come on slower and last several
days. The difference is probably viral or bacterial poison getting into
your stomach. The latter is more serious and could be something much
nastier. There are literary dozens of different straits of both and pointless to cover then here, but most encountered (normally bacterial) aren't too serious.
Best advice: don't get paranoid about food poisoning
otherwise it can ruin a trip and your experiences of some great food.
Just allow time for it and take the rough with the smooth, as it were
- there is very little you can do about it once the poison is inside
you apart from avoiding dehydration (Gatorade type
sports drinks are much easier to drink than water and will replace a little energy/salt)
and let it come out of you (in whatever form - NB severe and
continual vomiting that is preventing you from keeping water down and/or
retching for long periods can be treated by tablets or an injection;
either way consult a doctor if symptoms are persisting. Staff in your
hotel will normally help you find medical help or bring you water et cetera if on your own). See diarrhoea and dehydration below as it is normally
a symptom of food poisoning, for more advice.
Some of the easiest places to get ill are where there
are large numbers of tourists and the locals have adapted by offering
western type food. Nepal and Ecuador are good examples. You might never have a problem in India, eating Indian food, but suffer in Nepal eating western
food. To quote from a book about climbing Mount Everest, the author
stated that the hardest challenge with mountaineering in Nepal is not
getting sick in Kathmandu! But that doesn't mean that every trip to Nepal,
India or the like will see you with the runs or throwing up; a normal
healthy experience is quite possible with a bit of common sense and
a fair size chunk of luck. It goes without saying that the longer you
are away the higher your chances of picking something up becomes.
The ‘boil it, cook it, peel it, or forget it!' adage
is well documented. So are all the cold salads, ice cubes in drinks,
fruit juices, hand-made ice creams, raw food and buffet warnings. Bacteria
and injected water can be inside melons, so it's best to avoid melons.
In reality you can never know - personally I've eaten all of the above
which are risky, and been fine, but do believe that eating a carnivorous diet
you run a much higher chance of getting ill (chicken is often reheated).
Just remember, you may go a year and not have a problem or get ill on
your first day in somewhere like Crete. It's something of a lottery.
Chances are you will
probably get some form of diarrhoea at sometime during a long trip. A distinction should be drawn between general 'travellers' diarrhoea, and severe diarrhoea. The former which is more of an annoyance than a major problem, can normally be clocked up to changes in diet, time-zone, irregular eating and general stress. The latter, more severe forms can be totally incapacitating and normally coupled with vomiting and a case of more serious food poisoning. So many things can be responsible for a case of the squits, many point the finger at water, poor hygiene in cooking and general. Quite often it can be the result of getting other
people's faeces in your mouth. The dirty culprits are normally
cooks not washing their hands after a trip to the toilet, but
even if the restaurant cook does not understand basic hygiene
you will be safe if your food has been properly cooked and arrives
piping hot. Whatever causes it or wherever it came from doesn't really matter - try to let diarrhoea pass through you with plenty
of water, a basic diet and maybe try apple sliced very thin then left to turn
brown.
The bacteria responsible for diarrhoea and
related symptoms normally dies after 36 hours. If it lasts longer
than this, chances are you have nothing serious, but something
treatable, for instance giardia (indicated by severe flatulence,
stomach cramps and sulphurous belching) which is cured by Flagyl
(Metronidazole)
- see a pharmacist. By taking precautions against travellers'
diarrhoea you will also avoid typhoid, cholera, hepatitis, dysentery,
worms and a whole load of other rare but thoroughly unappetising
diseases. It's only when you have to ask whether farts have
nuts, that you know you've joined the backpackers' fraternity!
Dehydration is the reason you feel
awful during a bout of diarrhoea. Dehydration (ORT - see below) salts sachets can be taken, but
a four-finger scoop of sugar with a three-finger pinch of salt
in a glass, with a squeeze of lemon or orange juice will do
okay in minor cases (use flat coke with just salt if drinking
water is not available). Try to avoid diarrhoea blockers like
Imodium (unless you have no access to sanitation) as these are
not cures and although they sometimes (in mild cases) can seem
to knock it on the head, they often make your screamers last
longer. If you're hungry stick to dry biscuits, boiled potatoes
or rice.
During illness (diarrhoea/vomiting), dehydration
is a risk that cannot be understated and ORT (oral re-hydration therapy) in the form of sachets of
salts you add to water are very cheap, widely available even
in the remotest of locations and save thousands, of lives every
year when serious illnesses (e.g. Cholera) strike in
the developing world.
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With many travellers expecting diarrhoea,
it comes as a surprise that constipation can be common.
Drink plenty of water, eat fruit and have some natural laxatives
at hand. If need be, massage your own belly with your hands
and with your muscles (by flattening and bulging your belly)
as this sort of activates your intestines. Drinking coffee or
(herbal) tea can also help.
Bottled water is almost always available,
unless when trekking or in very remote areas, in which case
use Iodine pills or boil (chlorine can be used, but just doesn't
cut it when it comes to killing some nasty bugs). Some travellers
get sold on bulky water purification systems for their travels.
These are on the whole unnecessary apart from a few instances
where bottled water prices are quite high (we are still talking
less than a dollar). Best advice: leave it in the store and
try to seek out places that will re-fill plastic bottles for
the savings and that green feeling. With iodine purification
remember two things. One, it tastes pretty awful so make sure
you have taste removing pills plus if necessary powdered drink
like 'Tang' to remove even their taste and two, don't drink
Iodine purified water for long periods. Never drink direct from
streams, no matter how clear they look. If boiling water, allow
longer times at altitude and don't trust someone else to do
it properly.
They may not be exotic and you may be somewhere
wonderfully tropical, but colds, flu and sore throats can often knock you down, especially in damp climates or after
long haul flights.
Mild skin irritations or fungal
infections can be dealt with Hydrocortisone/Clotrimazole
or similar cream. Insect bites that can be very painful
and annoying, including mosquito bites, can also be treated
with Hydrocortisone cream (or other travel size remedies) and
if very bad anti-histamine pills - just don't scratch. All of
the above medications can be found with complete ease whilst
away.
HIV and other STDs are widespread across less developed nations (especially Africa) to
a degree unimaginable in Western countries. The risk involved with having
unprotected sex whilst away with anyone apart from a regular partner
is prohibitively high. Meningitis is a particularly nasty disease
and can kill within hours. The telltale symptom is a blinding headache
and high fever. Make sure you are vaccinated (however this will only
protect you from common and bacterial forms). Be aware of localised
outbreaks and see a doctor immediately.
See Malaria prophylactic and treatment in the before you go section.
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The
equatorial and Australian sun is vicious and although
you can't really avoid some exposure, there is no point in incurring
it needlessly. Basically,
build up your exposure gradually and cover up in the middle
of the day. Be particularly careful when swimming or snorkelling,
at altitude, when on open transport or any other actively that
prolongs your exposure to midday sun such as hiking. Common-sense really, but
getting burnt really isn't fun as most will be able to testify,
however a paranoid approach during day to day activities and
zero exposure is unnecessary.
Rabies can be carried by any mammal, normally
monkeys, dogs or any wild animal behaving in an unusually tame manner
(just give them a wide berth). Any suspect bite should be scrubbed under
running water for five minutes and flooded with diluted iodine or other
disinfectant. A post-bite injection is needed as soon as possible, even
if you have paid out and suffered the immunization jabs. The further
from the brain the bite is the longer the incubation period (which can
be quite long). Do make sure you get an injection within a day or three
(unless the bite is to the face) no matter how far from civilisation
you are. Once symptoms appear, death from rabies is probably the worst
way to go. Tetanus is caught from deep, dirty wounds including
animal bites. Make sure wounds are thoroughly cleaned and that you have
had the immunisation that gives good protection for ten years. If not,
get a booster as quickly as possible.
There are several books dedicated to staying
healthy abroad, the majority of which are complete overkill
and play on people's fears to sell copies. The health sections
in Lonely Planet's titles are on the whole, nothing but recycled
crap with no real advice. Some of the best info on travel health
can be found in Footprint
guides, notably the Footprint South
America Handbook.
It's important to be aware that this section is only a quick
low-down on common problems: there are thousands of other considerations
and as stated before, no doctors have contributed to this site. It's also worth knowing that if you get ill and can't or don't
want to see a doctor, that in most developing countries you
can buy almost any medicine cheaply, over the counter in numerous
pharmacies without a prescription.
Just to put things in proportion,
the following guide was taken from 1000 travel
tips and was compiled by R. Steffen from the WHO. He has published
a nice series on medical problems encountered by travellers going to
tropical countries. Here's his list of problem frequencies for travellers
staying one month:
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At
high altitude (above 2500m/8000ft) take it easy until you have acclimatised. Altitude sickness often gives you no more
than a killer headache, breathlessness and a slow brain feeling
above 3000m. It sets on you about half an hour after you have
hit a summit and will often give you a sleepless, breathless
night. Anyone can get it bad even if they have been at high
altitude before, but acute altitude sickness is a lot
less likely than stories you hear and read make out. If you
do get it, the only cure is to come down from altitude. Coca
tea can help, but the side effects of pills (tingling hands)
sold in Kathmandu, can for some, be worse than any mild case.
The power of the sun at altitude is a danger much more worthy
of your concern.
Climbing a volcano in Ecuador or Kilimanjaro,
the road to Leh in India, the Karakoram highway, the pass in
the middle of the Annapurna circuit or Everest base camp both
in Nepal and the altiplano in Bolivia and Tibet are the most
common places travellers will get those killer headaches spoken
of. Lay off alcohol and drink plenty of water
(although it goes straight through you). For more information
see The High Altitude Medicine Guide.
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Medical problem |
Percentage |
Any problem |
55% |
Felt sick |
25% |
Visited a doctor |
8% |
Had to stay in bed |
6% |
Could not go to work afterwards |
2% |
Diarrhoea |
Travellers diarrhoea |
30-80% |
Severe diarrhoea |
6% |
Malaria |
Malaria in W-Africa while NOT taking prophylaxis |
2.4% |
Malaria in E-Africa while NOT taking prophylaxis |
1.5% |
Other places: see footnote* |
- |
Hepatitis |
Hepatitis |
- |
Hepatitis A: see footnote** |
0.3 to 2% |
Hepatitis B*** |
0.085% |
As a final note,
take a look at the what
to pack first aid kit list,
but don't go mad - you can always buy medication when travelling
(cheaper and more compact) and this is the one thing that gets
everyone extra paranoid, so most go over the top when packing.
In addition, never
forget that what you eat and drink is crucial: a poor
diet lowers your resistance. Ensure you try to eat a balance
of protein and carbohydrates as well as getting enough vitamins
and minerals. If you're sweating loads make sure you get enough
salt (put extra on your food if you want) and drink enough water.
Make sure you eat enough, as an unfamiliar diet will probably
reduce the amount you eat and get enough sleep and rest.
It's easy to get run down in a hot climate - splash out on a
nice hotel room if you are sleeping poorly - it's worth it in
the long run.
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Table Footnotes:
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Moving around
Moving around.. that's why they call it travelling.
You end up doing a lot of it: sitting on buses, trains and taxis - at
best; at worst, night buses, the back of pick-up trucks or below-par
boats.
Travelling, it's a great leveller - everyone needs
to spend time getting places. It's something you will have to get used
to and the fact is, it's not always very comfortable. You'll also probably
not be prepared for how far distances are (for example Chile top to
bottom is the same as Lagos to London!) and how bad roads can be. Paul
Theroux hit the nail on the head when he wrote 'travel is glamorous
only in retrospect'.
You
really need to look at the country summaries for exact details, since transport and options vary dramatically from
country to country. Some countries will have fantastic train systems
(India, China) in others, rollerskates would be more useful. Developed
countries will normally have good roads, but bus/train prices are generally
pretty expensive and hiring/buying a car may be a much better option.
The roads and distances in less developed countries, especially crossing
mountains or high areas can mean even though buses are cheap, every
now and again an air ticket makes sense. And then there are the dreaded
night buses, all of which are mentioned below:
» Trains: These can often be slower, colder,
more expensive and more impractical than buses. However,
in the right places (India, China, Egypt, Tanzania, Zimbabwe
and Europe to name a few) they're great. They have the
benefit that you can normally get a good night's sleep. Make
sure you don't end up for a prolonged period in third class on a Chinese or Indian
train, just for the sake of a few Rupees or Yuan - it won't
be much fun after the third or fourth hour. Be extra mindful of your things at night, as theft
is rampant on popular routes (i.e. Agra to Varanasi) - chain
possessions up and keep them near. Also be aware that trains
can get very cold at night with AC left on full blast or
at high altitudes (many South American trains). (See
image - Indian Train)
» Buses: Its buses that you will end up on more than often.
You may well feel you are spending most of your trip on
a bus. They vary significantly, normally in less developed
countries being cheap, mainly efficient (okay, you sometimes
get a break-down) and with frequent departures. In more
developed countries it's the opposite. In some places like
Thailand and Turkey, buses are a joy. Many countries have
a cheap state run bus line and private (faster, bit more
expensive) options to complement it. You soon get used to
picking the right types, times, companies and seats - there
is more most travellers could say about those considerations
than anything else on this site! It's what they and you
will have the most experience of!
» Night Buses: Loved and hated. Basically you get on a
bus in the evening and the theory is you wake up refreshed
in a new place, saving a day and a night's accommodation.
What really happens is you don't get much sleep on the bus,
feel shit the next day, save very little on your accommodation,
lose a day because you sleep the next and freeze if AC is
left on all night or worse still a TV/ loud conversation.
Even with all this in mind you will still use them despite
being much more unsafe and allowing you to see less than
in the day, because distances can be so great and time so
precious. Make your own choices (although sometimes there's
not much of one). (See
image - Chinese sleeper bus, although this type with beds on the bus are not typical outside China.)
» Mini Buses: Many countries have privately owned small
mini-buses running certain routes faster, a little bit more
expensively and more frequently than big buses. The general
norm is the drivers of these buses think they are in a grand
prix and there's always room for one more. Despite their
lack of comfort (you can always buy two seats) and dangers
you may well end up taking these buses, as they are practical
and quick for short to medium distance trips.
» Buying, hiring or thumbing a car: In developed countries
and especially in New Zealand, Australia, USA, South Africa
(Namibia & Botswana) and Western Europe, buying/hiring is a great
idea, and will give you rewards never expected. Be sure
to shop around. If buying, know what you are buying and
make sure you have time to sell it. If hiring read the contract
bloody carefully and try to leave your deposit on a credit
card that you can cancel, just in case they try to screw
you for something like a scratch that has always been there,
knowing you have little recourse. In New Zealand and everywhere
else for that matter, in the peak season the cheapest rentals
go fast - surf the net and book ahead.
Hire car relocations are also something worth considering. They don't give you
much time, but if the timings are right they are a very
cost effective way of getting around in Oz, NZ and the USA. Hitchhiking is possible in developed countries, especially
NZ, Chile, USA, Europe and Israel, but can be a pain in
the arse. Hitchhiking in less developed countries is less
advisable - aside from the safety risk you will probably
be expected to pay for your ride.
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In destinations like Australia, New Zealand
and South Africa, backpacker hop-on/hop-off type buses run.
Do not commit yourself to these at home (even with small
discounts offered) - they sound a good idea, but for many
aren't and they are not recommended here unless you are
travelling alone or have very limited time. These buses
are nowhere near as wild as their operators like to make
out and can be full of idiots that you have no other choice
but to travel with. In essence you are buying into a tour
and paying more for something you could do yourself with
greater satisfaction. Really these sorts of buses only become
a good option in destinations where public transport is
very limited/expensive, if you need to be guaranteed social
interaction and if getting hold of a car is not an option
for you (too expensive, can't drive or share costs with
anyone).
The African tour buses that ply
between Nairobi and Victoria Falls or Cape Town in East/South
Africa are the most contentious issue when it comes to independent
travel and backpacker buses. They generally transport twenty
or so 15-30 somethings (normally British, Australian or
Kiwi) through areas of Africa where public transport is
sometimes slim and distances are vast, but most importantly
take you through national parks (which can sometimes cost
the same price as a tour and be difficult to gain access
to if visited independently). Everyone in the bus works
as a team and cooks, eats, cleans and sleeps together (in
tents). Tours are normally purchased through the South African
or British companies that run them. Therefore your money
rarely stays in Africa and you give very little back to
the countries you're visiting.
Overland buses are a contentious issue.
Travel in Africa is something most travellers are concerned
about and the tours give you the best (sights wise) of a
very large continent in a quick period and their patrons
(who are normally lone travellers) generally have had a
good time with their peers. So those are the pluses: the
converse argument is that these trips can be done independently
(Nairobi to Vic Falls/Cape Town is a huge tourist trail
and small tours can be taken up in order to get you into
game parks), the groups on the buses are sometimes more
into drinking beers and playing music on the stereo than
being interested in where they are and finally, as touched
on earlier, you give very little back to the nations you
rapidly traverse. Having never done one of these tours there's
no opinion expressed here (although from this site in general
you should be able to gauge it). The objective is to present both
sides of the argument, heard many times, always defended
furiously.
The short of it is: You can do this
independently even by yourself as a female and if you have
the slightest inclination towards independence, feel you
would feel confined travelling with the same group of people
or require spontaneity, then think twice before booking
something like this.
The fact is that if you have the time,
independent travel will be much more rewarding (Africa and travel in general is about people more than anything else) and when travelling independently you will meet
loads of other travellers anyway.
It is very common to see
these tour buses offering cheap rides from Vic Falls (coming
from Nairobi) to Cape Town (to get people on a plane home).
This is because they often have lots of empty seats through
drop outs on the way, which speaks volumes.
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» Shared
taxis/jeeps and bush taxis: There are many routes worldwide
where onward transport is both harsh and impractical. In
these cases taxi drivers or car owners can be approached for a price (they normally
offer). This price is going to be high so you really
need to split it between three/four. These taxis generally
leave from a set point (when full) and although are generally used
for short legs where there is no or limited public
transport, but the route is fairly standard, (for example
from a border town to the border), in many cases they do make longer
trips. For longer trips they are perhaps the fastest and
most comfortable of all four wheeled transport options
if not too crowded. The front seat, if you can bag it - being the most comfortable and sometimes with the added luxury of (stop-press) a seat-belt!
Negotiating a fair price for the trip can be tricky since there is unlikely to be any 'standard' fare (or certainly not one you will know about) and the driver might want money for the return leg. Rates in guidebooks are always out-of-date when published and seasonal variations can have an affect. If you are traveling by this means regularly the best method is to find out how far the destination is so you can work it back to a price per/km for comparison to other trips and make it seem like you are not in any hurry or urgency to leave.
A bush taxi or taxi brousse is a West African phenomenon
(particularly French West Africa) and in no way
comfortable. Bush taxis are always private, but rarely
does the driver own the vehicle, and are effectively a
small bus. Almost without exception a bush taxi will
leave when full (or when all seats are sold) not by a
timetable. Depending on the popularity of the route this
can take half an hour or even several days. If you are
early you can choose where you sit: late comers have no
choice - sitting in the front is the best and worst is
the back (the side with no shade is also pretty bad). If
a bush/private taxi looks like it is going to get
uncomfortably full or take ages to fill, you can buy
extra seats at the same price as your one or even
charter the whole thing. In some cases you are going to
be asked for more money for a big bag. On some occasions
when the taxi is taking ages to fill up some passengers
will club together to buy remaining seats and get going.
If this happens or you personally buy an extra seat,
don't expect a discount - time is not money in the third
world. Best get a bush taxi early in the morning or on a
market day. There are a few different types of bush taxi
in West Africa, most a moving form of torture. To find
out more see the West African
country summaries.
» Flying: It's sometimes
the case that internal
flights are great value for money, a godsend and
commonly overlooked by
budget travellers. Certainly in the developed world,
flying can be cheaper than the overland option, but more
often than not it's a more expensive luxury option, but you save a hell of a lot of time and more
importantly sanity, especially when crossing difficult
terrain such as mountains or water. Not to mention as so
many times is the case, where overland travel just
simply isn't possible or physical/visa barriers create
major hassle. Many budget travellers think they can't
afford flights, but if you are lucky, do your homework
and try and book early, costs aren't prohibitive
and if you allow for a few in your budget you will feel
a lot happier especially if doing a big trip over long
distances. Tickets are easy to pick up while away and
please remember that flights are always cheapest in
their originating country or booked on the budget carriers
website.
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A quick note... On buses, other public transport and
bus stations, especially at night, keep any small bags you
have at very close quarters. Neither overhead storage nor
under your seat can be guaranteed 100% safe in many places
- especially if you are dozing. There's no need to be
paranoid, but a strap around your leg
or a simple and quick wire-lock will give you peace of mind
and possibly save your trip from being seriously tarnished. Liken this
to putting a seat belt on. If you have never been in an
accident, it seems pretty pointless. However, with hindsight
it seems more than sensible even when you don't feel like
it or feel the situation fits.
In regions like Latin America
and Africa, it is more than good sense. The same goes with
walking at night with your bag if it can be at all avoided.
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The huge growth in budget airlines,
aka. low-cost carriers and
technology means many carriers now operate good websites
and issue e-tickets. Take a look at the budget airline list in the links section and make a few searches (try Air
Asia for example) to see just how easy and cheap
flying has now become. It's worth noting that this explosion has
happened in Asia and Europe of course with North America (inc.
Mexico) not far behind, but South America and Africa are
practically miles behind - see regional low-down below. The
only warning to offer is that this is no secret and on
notoriously painful routes in peak seasons (say Christmas),
popular legs like Bombay to Goa get booked pretty solid and
prices go through the roof.
Australia, New
Zealand and the Pacific: Prior to 2000 cheap-fare alternatives to Qantas and
Ansett had failed, but then came Virgin Blue and Jetstar,
which both have excellent domestic coverage with fares
from about 35USD - (Jetstar now being the budget arm of Qantas). Virgin Blue also flies to the Pacific
Islands (getting to Fiji, Tongo or Samoa, will cost
about 400USD return) and Jetstar into Asia – Bali and
Bangkok among others. Also worth a mention are Rex (Regional Express) on the East coast, Skywest on the West coast (worth noting for Perth to Broome (skipping the Gibb
River Road)) and Air North for the northern half. Between Australia
and New Zealand, Freedom Air (www.freedomair.co.nz)
has cheap flights from about 135USD and competition is
fierce with Jetconnect (see Qantas NZ site) and Jetstar.
Between Oz and NZ routes such as Brisbane to
Christchurch and Melbourne to Dunedin make exploring
much more effective than the standard Sydney to Auckland
route.
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South East Asia: The main payers are Tiger
Airways (www.tigerairways.com )
which has a great routes and can connect you to the
Philippines dirt cheap and Jetstar Asia Airways (www.jetstarasia.com),
these two are based in Singapore which was home to the
regions first budget airline. Across the border AirAsia
(www.airasia.com)
is very useful for Borneo and getting to islands of
Penang and Langkawi; they are expanding fast and offer a
Bangkok to Hanoi route for about 50US$ which is
incredibly handy - as well as loads of other routes and
sometimes (promotional) silly prices. Thailand's Nok Air
(www.nokair.com)
also has a burgeoning network from Bangkok and Pacific
Airlines (www.pacificairlines.com.vn)
of Vietnam seems to be making the restructuring steps to
be come a low-cost carrier too. Indonesia's Adam Air,
doesn't have the best reputation and went under in 2008, but Air Asia and Lion
Air (www.lionair.co.id)
or good alternative and can get you from Jakarta to Bali
for (if you get the timing right) about 40US$.
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Indian and Sri Lanka: 2003 saw the launch of the first
Indian low-cost: Air Deccan (www.flyairdeccan.net)
which had great prices, but some bizarre fare rules and
since has inspired many imitators. Routes are numerous
so best to check the carriers websites or the India
section of this site for a better overview. Remember
also this is India and what can go wrong (delays,
cancellations, etc) probably will. Good carriers
include, SpiceJet wwww.spicejet.com),
GoAir (www.goair.in),
and IndiGo Airlines (www.goindigo.in).
With Kingfisher (www.flykingfisher.com)
and Jet Airlines (www.jetairways.com)
included you have coverage of about 50 domestic
destinations and several international including London. Many of these airlines offer passes if you really want to
see a lot in short time, but considering distances in
India you might find some fares not inline with the
average Indian travel budget. Both Sri Lankan Airways
and Mihin Air can get you to Sri Lanka. |
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North America: Southwest
Airlines (www.southwest.com)
started the whole no-frills budget airline revolution
back-in 1971 and was the model that Ryan Air copied
which snowballed cheap flights in Europe and around the
world. Southwest now have plenty of competition, flying
to all parts of the US of A, south of the border to
Mexico and into the Caribbean - carriers are too numerous to list
here and normally specialise in a particular region or
route, but easily revealed by a few web searches. In
Canada several low cost carriers have folded, but WestJet (www.westjet.com)
serves many cities and the States too. After the sell off
of state-owned Mexicana, Mexico got its own budget
carrier and many followed suit, the best of which are
Aviacsa (www.aviacsa.com)
and Aero California (www.aerocalifornia.com)
both of which have English language websites. Click
Mexicana (www.clickmx.com)
is also worth a mention. |
South America: Really the
low-costs airlines have only taken root in Brazil, but still
they have some useful links with some flying
internationally to the big hubs across the continent. Gol (www.voegol.com.br)
is the most famous and connected. Other options include
BRA (www.voebra.com.br)
and Ocean Air (www.oceanair.com.br).
In both Chile and Argentina you will find several option
and elsewhere state and private carriers (if you book
right) can be an okay price, but aren't set up for
self-booking on the net. In fact self-booking and using the
budget airline or state network in South America just
isn't as easy or as practical as in Europe or Asia with
some site being Spanish or Portuguese only, not accepting
foreign cards or just not offer online booking, but
things are sure to change.
|
Africa: As with much in
Africa, things are patchy at best with as you might
expect, few low-cost set up airlines. In South Africa, Kulula (www.kulula.com)
has an expanding network in Southern Africa and Mango (www.flymango.com)
is South African Airlines response. Also worth a mention
is Precision Air (www.precisionairtz.com)
domestic in Tanzania and Fly540 (www.fly540.com)
in Kenya - with very few routes at present it seems keen
on expanding and hopefully so in a continent where
getting from North, South, East, West by air can be
stupidly expensive.
Middle East: Air Arabia is the
Middle East's first low cost airline and has some great
value flights around gulf states and further airfield to
India, Sri Lanka and Pakistan, among others. It's based
in Sharjah which is a little bit of pricey taxi ride
north of Dubai. While hops around the gulf won't be of
much interest to most travellers, the potential to use
cheap flights from Europe and particular London to Dubai
as a stepping-stone to other more interesting
destinations might be. On to India is great value and
there are some interesting routes into Central Asia,
Nepal and Yemen. Another mention is Jazeera Airways (www.jazeeraairways.com),
which has flights from Kuwait and Dubai to India, Egypt, etc, with plans for more routes.
Sleeping / accommodation
» Developing countries (guesthouses):
In developing countries.. on the whole it is never really
a problem finding a guesthouse (the word hotel is used for the most part in this section) room for the night
or other place to stay (read on for info on developed countries
and hostels) outside of the odd peak
period (e.g. national holidays,
traveller peak season in smaller towns). In general, certainly
within the developing world, where there is a demand it will
be met in some form. |
It is however, a good idea to book accommodation for your first night if arriving late
in the day or a little low on travel confidence. You can book
this room by various means (guide book and an international
phone call for example), but if you want to do so on the web, you can using
this site, which it is appreciated - see the where to
stay page. |
Rooms vary dramatically in quality and value. Finding
a good room or a good deal is more of an art than a science. The normal
approach for most travellers is to go through their guidebooks, scanning
for any hidden hints. Let's Go at least lists hotels in preference and
Footprint works on readers' recommendations, but other than those, guidebooks
leave you in the dark; many good places to stay made famous by guidebooks
become crowded, noisy, full of themselves and non flexible on price.
A guidebook (see image)
is a great guide when you first arrive, but don't think you have to
stay in a hotel listed within its pages; there are many choices and hey, guidebooks
openly state they don't stay in the hotels, yet give recommendations
on them! Go figure. It's also nice to give an unlisted little guy a
shot at some tourist dollars. The most important factors are cleanliness,
quiet, safety and price - you can rank these as you see fit. You get a pretty good feeling from a place
just popping in and seeing a room - remember, if you think it has potential,
but don't like the room you saw (often the nearest and noisiest) ask
to see another. Also in pretty much all cases try to get a little discount
especially for multiple nights. If you have the energy, try to look
at a few hotels to compare - normally just by saying 'well thanks, but
we normally check out a few places' the price will drop.
You can have a lot of success finding the main noisy
traveller hotel area, then heading back a few streets to some random
hotels that have never been in any guidebooks, and getting some fantastic,
very quiet and great priced rooms. Many travellers also have a lot of
success with slightly more mid-range hotels (just above the entry level and sometimes aimed at domestic business travellers) and slightly smarter looking places
(particularly in low seasons). It takes a little nerve going in, hoping
that they do give you a good price - seeing as most of their rooms are
sometimes empty - and not the normal price that you probably don't want
to pay. On many occasions you find yourself in really nice rooms with
cable TV and fluffy white towels, for only a few dollars more (and sometimes
no more) than the standard budget option. Although with looking for a slightly nicer rooms in poorer countries you can run into the law of diminishing returns pretty quickly, where paying a lot more gets you little extra after a certain point.
The biggest problem can often be noise. Traffic, incessant
horns and people are often very loud, plus with rooms set up
for hot weather, glass and walls are thin. This can be very
frustrating if you need to get an early start next morning.
In main backpacking areas, try to avoid crowded hotels/hostels (and (sorry) especially when crowded with young Israelis or other typically raucous groups), rooms that overlook a road or centre
court yard where people may be partying until the early hours,
TVs and thin walls, and hotels with echoey corridors.
The real bummer is that you normally have no idea your room
is next to a mosque, night club, temple or noisy bastard until
its time to go to sleep (sure you could look out of the window
but you get the drift). Ask the person who shows you the
room if it's quiet, so if it's not you can always checkout and
find somewhere else with fewer hassles.
» Worth noting.. Noise is a big problem in Asia,
not so much elsewhere. More often than not excess noise is caused
by motor vehicles (particularly motor-bikes) and their horns.
The cheaper the hotel, often means the thinner the walls. It's
not always true, but generally noise levels are directly linked
to price, with the cheaper places always being the nosiest.
TVs in neighbouring rooms may also be set loud to overcome the noise
of a fan running.
|
Since supply normally outstrips demand in Asia and North Africa
especially, you might find yourself besieged by touts, often working on commission.
The hassle these guys give you normally makes you wary of them,
but they can be useful if you are having problems finding a
room. In addition they can get you to some nice out of the way places
you would of have never discovered otherwise, with killer prices
since they don't have a guidebook listing. Not all touts are working
for commission sometimes a guesthouse is owned by a family and a
family member is sent out, getting you to a really nice honest,
family establishment. And just because you go with a tout doesn't mean you have to stay where
they recommend. It also pays to find out how far they are taking
you before you march off. To find a really good room you need patience,
for sure, but more importantly, a good measure of luck.
You might
like to.... If travelling in a pair or a group: leave someone
with the bags in a cafe or bus/train station while you quickly scope
out all the hotel options. You can move quickly without luggage
and perhaps sometimes giving the impression you are moving hotels,
not looking for one, and thus getting the best possible deal. Additionally
when paying for a room in advance, getting and saving a receipt until check out is good practice as confusion when calculating final
bills does happen, particularly with frequently changing staff shifts
and lack-lustre admin.
|
Remember, if you are paying extra for anything in a room like a bathroom,
TV or AC, make sure it works when you see the room. Cheaper rooms
in developing countries very rarely have sprung mattress (foam is most
common) and sometimes have protective plastic covers over them under
the sheets. Coupled with noise levels, heat (see below) and the standard,
single often hard pillow when using cheaper accommodation, this can
take a little getting used to (particularly when coming directly from
home) and will generally result in a few restless nights. In hot climates
you may also find the lack of a top sheet. Asking the staff normally
gets you one, but here's where a sleeping sac comes in
pretty useful.
Heat is the other major factor that in many situations affects you getting a good
night's sleep. Expect most days you are away in tropical countries
to be pretty hot depending on the time of year. The temperature
outside pretty much always drops at night, but in many rooms
it doesn't. This is normally because rooms really heat up in
the day, especially small ones, and even with a fan on the hot
air has nowhere to go. When it's really hot, in some of the ovens that pass as rooms, it is not unknown to wake up on wet sheets
(from sweat) during the night, have to drink a litre of water,
take a cold shower and even sit outside your room (much cooler).
As awful as this sounds there is not much you can do about it
apart from paying extra (sometimes a lot more) for a room with
AC. You are urged to think long and hard about travelling at
the hottest times of year especially in India, Africa and Central
America, and especially if on a rock bottom budget which won't allow you the luxury of air conditioning.
The problem with
hot rooms normally comes from lack of ventilation and direct
sunlight pouring in. Look for rooms that have good ventilation
(but where you can still sleep in private and not have too many
bugs flying in), that does not have direct sunlight pouring
in (at least curtains) and where breeze can easily get in (i.e.
top floor, unobstructed). This is all easier said than done.
The problem is never normally an issue in developed countries
that in many cases even fit AC units into dorm rooms, i.e. America.
A recommended tip
is: if really hot or unable to sleep because of the heat, wet
a towel with the coolest water you can find, ring it out and
cover yourself with it.
|
» Developed countries (hostels):
In developed countries, noise and heat is rarely
a problem, but accommodation is more limited and on the whole not cheap (a budget double
room (dorms will of course be cheaper) in a Sydney hostel will cost around US$65, in New York US$85).
In Europe and some other places you can find a few little cheap hotels, but for the rest and
certainly in big cities, hostels will be a staple. In developed
countries (for example: Western Europe, Australia and the USA
(New Zealand & South Africa, both less of a problem)), accommodation
and finding it is an entirely different ball game compared to
the second and third world and if on a budget you will certainly
have to make use of hostels at some point which get very crowded during peak seasons.
The number of hostels around the world over the past few years have increased dramatically and they are finding there way into more and more destinations (for example the numbers in the likes of Rio, Singapore and Buenos Aires have increased many fold over the last few years). However, they vary dramatically from excellent (NZ and South Africa) to good, bad and just awful. They are generally at their worst during peak seasons/times when full. During these times (European/US Summer and most weekends), in any big city, it is wise to book ahead or at least check availability online with Hostelworld (see right) or similar.
With accommodation,
as in life, you get what you pay for. When a hotel room in,
say, Dublin centre runs at €95 and a hostel bed goes for €10-20
in the same location you do have to take things with a pinch
of salt, generally sharing a room with others, dealing with
noise and crowded bathrooms. But please remove any ideas from
your head that hostels have to be 20 bunk beds full of snorers
in a small room with lights off at eleven-thirty! Hostels simply
vary too much to generalise.
For the most comfortable,
private and best value nights, book and stay in slightly more
expensive rooms (with less beds and sometimes on-suite) as these
normally are the least popular and the have lowest occupancies.
In addition try to time any visit to a big city, particularly
within Western Europe during mid-week when hostels are half
full and not during major sporting or other events. Also if it's near
the top of the guidebook list it's going to be packed. Look out for newly opened hostels and read reviews from
others who have stayed in these places (there are many sites
with hostel reviews).
What's important to make
clear that although there are loads of terrible hostels (normally
in Western Europe and the USA big cities) there are tonnes of great
ones out there, and quite a few absolutely brilliant ones. In addition,
staying in a hostel is not limited by age and doesn't necessarily mean
that you have to stay in dorms. Double or twin rooms are normally
only a little more than two dorm beds, but do generally need booking a day or more in advance.
|
As outlined, in some cases and periods it not
only makes sense to book in advance in order to get a good room,
but is total necessary for peace of mind. If you do a search
on Google for say 'cheap accommodation in' 'Paris', 'New York'
or 'Sydney' you will find thousands of results mostly from resellers
working on commission. Hostelworld and HostelBooker are two such companies and the most established with the largest networks running search engines and booking facility for around eight and
a half thousand places in 150 odd countries, but it should be noted are not complete listings with big gaps in places.
You can view all listed available budget accommodation
in a destination, view available dates and see customer ratings.
Booking is simple online and your room is guaranteed. The sting
is for Hostelworld you pay a USD$2 booking charge per transaction, but that's
not too bad if it saves you an international call and guarantees
you a room for your first night or during a busy period; for Hostelbooker you pay no booking charge. Generally you
are also expected to pay a 10% deposit which is taken off your
bill when you arrive. Rates quoted are the same as walk-in rates. As an example you can view Hostelworlds FAQ page here if you wish.
Bookings can be made directly though either company's homepage, but are better made through this site.
Certainly so if you
have found this site a useful resource and want to assist its
continuation by helping with hosting/bandwidth charges,
then please do book through this site on the 'Resources'
page or bookmark hostels.travelindependent.info - any repeat use is appreciated.
To be up front, a few percent of your accommodation charge will be gained
in commission rather than going to the hostel - you incur
no extra charge: it's a big thank you for using the site.
Remember when arriving very late in a new city, your first night or during a festival these services are fantastic, but are not generally necessary for day-to-day travel and certainly not in the developing world.
|
In Europe primarily, University accommodation converts to hostels accommodation during summer months - these are a good bet for a room, but you won't find them in any internet searches or guidebooks. In NZ
(and others, such as the excellent Southern African Coast to Coast)
there are fantastic hostel guides with ratings compiled from
yearly surveys, distances from town centres and facilities. These are
free to pick up and mean you never need to use your guidebook. The BBH in New
Zealand is the best and really shows up guidebook listings.
A YHA card can get you some discount, but you won't use it that often;
the same goes for Hosteling International - but both are good networks. VIP is another similar network mainly in Australia/NZ,
where you pay upfront for a discount card. Some find great value,
others dislike the style of hostel and don't use the card enough to
recover the initial cost. Lastly be wary
of hostels that have lock-outs from say 1000-1600 when everyone has
to get out for cleaning. These are common in some of Europe and especially
in Japan
- the bathroom goes mad at 0930!
» Other options:
In
a few countries/places, private homes are an option or sometimes the main choice. These are often
fine, but make sure you know how far from the town centre they
are. Camping is always an option,
but not highly recommended, unless in a relatively non-touristy developed country with your own transport. Getting to camping grounds
is a pain without a car and camping in a hostel grounds, say
in NZ or South Africa will cost about the same as a dorm bed. The same is true for European camp sites that many offer dorms or fixed private huts at equivalent to camping rates. If you do have your own transport, getting to
camping grounds and staying in these fixed huts or caravans
can be a cheap way to get a double room in developed countries
and a good option if hostels are full - you just don't get the social
scene. Sleeping in your van in hostel car parks in Oz and NZ is
also an option.
|
» E-mailed comment: The best places you sleep
in, could never be mentioned or imagined at home, they are the
situations that make your trip. Bivouacking in the Australian
bush or on the side of a mountain, on the beach in Turkey or
in a beach hut in Thailand or Goa. On desert sand dunes in India
or North Africa or in the middle of the jungle with mosquitoes
buzzing in your ear or even on the top of Mount Sinai - the list goes on. As uncomfortable as they are
at the time, you have paid good money for the opportunity and
know at heart they are pretty neat; at least not to be forgotten.
If really off the beaten track (say in parts of Indonesia)
the mayor or village chief of small out-of-the-way places may
be able to help you find a place to stay when there is no hotel.
However, on the whole the vast, vast majority of backpackers never encounter
such a situation.
|
Looking after your things - avoiding crime
Crime is one of the most difficult things to write
about in context in this guide. Dwelling on the subject must inevitably
fuel paranoia in first-time travellers, yet glossing over it can only
place inexperienced travellers at greater risk of being robbed.
Simplistically, you need to recognise three things. The first is that
Asian and Africa (and to a lesser extent Latin American) society is
inherently far more law-abiding than our own (to the extent that criminals
are stoned in some countries). The second is that thieves will be present
on your trip, as they are everywhere, and they often target westerners,
who are not only reliably wealthy relative to locals, but who also are
very easy to spot. And thirdly, a little bit of paranoia never hurt
anyone - take care and you will have a great trip. Ignore this advice
and you might end up with nothing and your trip in ruins - I've seen
it happen at close quarters too many times.
A degree of discrimination and caution is appropriate
when you travel, but only a degree. Bear in mind that people with a
criminal intent make up a tiny fraction of less than 1% of the population,
so that an attitude of indiscriminate paranoia, wherever you are, can
only divert your attention away from genuinely suspicious characters.
Experience suggests that the vast majority of crimes against tourists
occur in one of a few specific places and/or reasonably predictable
circumstances. Imagine those that will cause you trouble (minor or major)
are like four leaf clovers. We all know they exist, but very few have
actually come across one. Nevertheless the longer you spend in the grass
the higher your chances become of finding one.
» Securing
your money:
As commonly stated when they cannot be stored safely elsewhere (such as you are on a bus with your main bag), keep all your important documents
and most of your money, in a money-belt or similar that can be worn beneath your clothing in a manner that makes it invisible
to casual observers. Some travellers seem to
carry all their money and documents with them at
all times (not just when on the move). Normally in a money belt sometimes not even under their clothing - this is always good
for a laugh. Not only did they not splash out on reasonable clothing
with secure pockets or make any effort to secure pockets/money, but keeping
your money belt on the outside of your clothing is like displaying your
family jewels on your front door step. Under or over clothing, it's uncomfortable in hot weather and it will almost certainly
be removed if you are actually mugged. Do however keep your money
belt on or at close hand when travelling on a bus/train and separated
from your main bag unless it is at very close hand and 100% secure.
You should avoid disclosing the presence of this
belt in public, so keep spending money in a pocket or elsewhere (better
to lose a few bucks once in a while that everything along with your
passport). It is also advisable to keep a reasonable amount of currency
well hidden in your luggage (US$/€100 bill) as something to fall back
on. One of the best places to carry
money is in the top pocket of a shirt (some put a handkerchief or
tissue on top of it as an extra measure). Or inside a
pocket (zipped) that's inside a pocket, or in a pouch/purse/wallet attached
to your clothing. Don't carry
your money around in a big wallet: take out just what you need
for the day and maybe your student and ATM/credit card (don't
carry these around unnecessarily). A big paper clip works well
as a money clip and is a good way to deal with the large amounts
of notes you end up with. See comment for some more advice and testament that there are loads of variations in keeping your money safe - it's what works for you.
Very few of the tens of thefts you'll hear about first
or second hand will have happened from a locked bag in a locked room.
Your things
will be fine locked and hidden in your bag in your hotel room
or even better in your hotel safe box, if available and you
can be bothered to put your things in them every time you change
hotels.
|
If you are really sensible... always keep a spare stash in your back/watch pocket or other
zipped up and/or secure place. You should also keep in there: a photocopy of your passport and your insurance emergency phone number; plus (if you don't have them stored on-line) the stolen
hotline number for your ATM/credit cards and a note of any other important info.
|
Always keep a record of what funds you have stashed, so if anything does go missing you'll know instantly. Personally I'd would leave my money
belt almost anywhere in preference to walking with it through
downtown Johannesburg, Cusco, Delhi, Bogotá, San Jose or Nairobi
(to name a few) after dark.
Another important
measure to take is to lock your bag up when not in the room with
it or when someone else is in the room. If necessary (i.e. when windows
don't lock or in a dodgy place) lock/chain it to something. In addition,
make sure your real valuables are well hidden. A little cash, old
passport/old credit card can be used as a decoy. Normally you should
have far greater reservations regarding the security of serviced mid-range
hotels than the flimsiest of security at rural family run establishments.
It's a good idea to bring your own padlock, preferably a combination
lock, to put on the door if possible (but then again if you don't trust
the place that much, why are you staying there?). When out and about
and travelling (i.e. on a bus), always know where your bag is and if you can keep an eye on it,
making sure it is stored securely or locked to something if in doubt. Your passport/money should be on your person. This is very important
with a small bag and on overnight trains where theft is rampant.
The
best place to keep any jewellery or the likes of anything with high financial
or sentimental value is at home.
» Violent crime,
mugging and armed theft:
This is relatively rare and only really occurs in
Latin America and Africa and then normally at night in large cities.
If you are going to get robbed/attacked then there's little you can
do about it and you are very unlucky, but that's why we have insurance.
There are plenty of fools about and you hear only a few stories of something
bad happening to someone without them doing something a little stupid
or naive, like walking around randomly at night or being drunk. That
said you can go a long way to avoid being mugged by applying the same
sort of judgment you might in any large city. Don't flaunt your wealth
- this means don't wear any jewellery and avoid tourist trappings such
as a daypack, camera bag and external money-belt. Use a taxi to get
around obvious trouble spots and at night. If you do walk at night (especially
when alone) avoid unlit roads, parks and quiet alleys.
It's pretty sensible you
take a taxi to your hotel when you first arrive
in any developing world city - wearing a large backpack is like saying 'hey, I
have got loads of valuables on me: rob me' and in somewhere
like Nairobi or Delhi it's likely somebody might take up the
challenge. And it is really asking for trouble if you
arrive in a big city after dark, particularly one where the
budget accommodation is dispersed and go walkabouts in search
of a room. Likewise if you decide to go off trekking anywhere (particularly in Latin America) find out at length whether there
is any risk in the area you are planning to walk and think carefully
about what you take. This is cited in particular reference to
Guatemala where hikers even in large groups are frequently robbed
walking around Lago Atitlán and
climbing volcanoes without guides. It always makes sense to
ask. Remember criminal activity is normally always focused around
tourist hot spots. One would imagine in the northern hills of
Guatemala you could leave a tent for weeks without anyone even
touching it.
|
As recommended
in virtually every guidebook, when in major cities such as Cape
Town or Rio, ditch as much luggage as possible (how about
all?), especially day sacs. This advice applies only really to sub-Sahara Africa and a few areas of South America where
daylight muggings do occur: Leave as much as possible at your
hotel/hostel or better still at home. Don't wear any jewellery
and certainly not a nice watch. All you need is enough money
for that day - nothing else, especially not your ATM card. Don't
walk around at leisure with your pack even in the day or in
supposedly safe areas - a taxi or bus
is well worth it.
Just to reinforce the point this sort of lawlessness is pretty much restricted only to certain parts of Africa and less so South America so don't get overly concerned
- it is obvious bad stories
are over weighted as they are the ones that get told the most.
|
» On
public transport:
Generally speaking when your bag is on a bus,
stored in the hold or even on the roof, it is pretty safe but keeping it close is
always nice, particularly if you are sleeping. Do keep an eye
out for theft out of windows, chiefly on trains.
Sometimes you
hear about a backpacker being drugged on public transport to
awaken without his valuables. This is not a big problem or something you should really be concerned about but,
especially if you are alone, be aware of accepting food, drink
or cigarettes from over friendly strangers. The reality is this is a particularly
hard problem to prevent if you are targeted and can lead to
over paranoia. It's only principally important to be on real
guard in Colombia and to a lesser extent Thailand, Cuba and
the Kenyan coast. However, it may be the case that any small bag you take onto a bus
or into a bus station is a prime target.
The following is
written above in the 'moving around'
section, but is important enough to repeat here: on buses and
other transport, especially at night, keep any small bags you
have at very close quarters. Neither overhead racks nor under your seat
can be 100% guaranteed safe especially if you are dozing.
If your bag does not have your full attention
a strap around your leg or a simple and quick wire-lock will
give you peace of mind and possibly save your trip from being
seriously tarnished. Liken this to putting a seat belt on.
If you have never been in an accident, it seems pretty pointless.
Nonetheless, with hindsight it seems more than sensible even
when you don't feel like it or feel the situation fits. In regions
like Latin America and Africa it is more than good sense. The
same goes (as stated above) with walking at night with your
bag - avoid it if at all possible.
Always remember a daypack (and especially a handbag) is a prime target
almost everywhere; e-mailed comment: 'Particularly within Southeast Asia,
there has been a spate of 'drive-by' bag snatching when daypacks
are put in the basket of a bicycle or motorcycle. The best thing
to do is to wear the pack on your back or not to carry one around
unnecessarily'.
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» Confidence
tricks:
Confidence
tricks are perhaps the biggest annoyance and danger to
any traveller to a less developed country. These type of tricks
which, it has to be said, are a mainly urban phenomenon, range
from the downright predictable and harmless 'Do you remember
me?', 'I am going to university in your home town' or 'Would
you like to have a drink with my family' (turns out you are
visiting the family's shop or get a US$10 bill for a cup of
tea). These sorts of lines you get wise to very quickly. If you
fall for them - which is not that difficult - lose you only
a few dollars and gain you a ton of experience. The other side
is far more sinister, often involving bogus policemen and sometimes
drugs.
If you are unsure or in 'one of those areas',
the sensible approach is to ignore anybody who approaches you
in the street on the assumption that they are after something.
If you have a companion, simply start up a conversation with
the other completely blocking the stranger out or if alone cross
over the street. It is advisable to avoid, in many cases, getting
into conversations as the longer you spend talking the harder
these characters are to shake off. If you do see the situation
becoming serious, i.e. the stranger has lit a joint and now
the 'police' are here, simply keep your head, make your presence
known and be clear that you will make no concessions, not even
answering questions, certainly not handing anything over or going
anywhere (apart from the police station by you own means).
These sorts of tricks work on fear and bullying;
keep your head and don't let it happen to you (although it is
unlikely it will). Even with seemingly nice guys, whenever money
is involved (advance payments or whatever) it's best to be extra
careful.
Really the best advice when it comes to money
is trust no-one. Don't leaving it lying around in sight or display
it unduly. Be wary of paying in advance when there are no business
premises or guarantees and finally be as clear as you can on agreements
of prices for goods or services when you are paying after
the event (i.e. taxi ride).
|
» Pick pocketing
and casual theft:
Most casual thieves and pickpockets operate in busy
markets and bus/train stations, so keep a close watch on your possessions
in such places. Bus stations in Latin America see a fair few bags go
missing from those who idly watch them or are easily distracted (it
doesn't take much to lock or clip a bag to a fixed object). When catching a bus, having a (as in only one) compact bag makes life
much easier. Simply aim to get out of bus stations quickly, pay attention
during any crush getting on and off town buses and follow the
advice given above regarding how to carry your money. Quite frankly
there is no reason to carry around anything near to a large sum of money
or important documents in your pockets. If you have been to the ATM or bank, drop it off
or secure it first. If you don't, you only have yourself to blame.
The raise of portable electronic devices such as
mobile phones, digital cameras or MP3 players which almost all
travellers seem to take away with them has resulted in an equally
matched rise in the number of these items disappearing. Whereas the
vast, vast majority of the world has in general low levels of
violent crime and a low threat of terrorism or other dangerous
activities, petty theft, however, is becoming increasingly common,
and travellers should take precautions, especially with mobile
phones, digital cameras, and other small electronics which are
easily “misplaced.”
If
all this section makes you think twice about your trip... don't
worry - |
'Just like there are two different types of people, there
are two different types of days travelling: M and F. Well
F stands for fine, now most people think M stands for miserable
- wrong, memorable. Many travellers like to remind themselves
that a bad day travelling is better than a good day at work'.
On the once excellent (now over commercial) Lonely Planet website there is a section
called postcards, which mainly consists of notes written
by those who have been unlucky enough to fall victim to
crime to warn others of it. On the whole this is completely
unrepresentative and tends to make you quite nervous, but
is always worth a read as it's a good reference of the latest
scams and will make sure you keep your guard up with a measure
of paranoia in the best possible way. Remember, better a
little paranoid than naive and the victim of crime.
Remember most incidence of theft abroad are of the 'sticky finger' variety, compared to something more sinister: make sure bags and side pockets are locked at all times and anything you carry on your person is also secure. There isn't a city in the world, be it Zürich or Nairobi where at the wrong place and wrong time, given an easy opportunity you'll end up with something pinched.
|
Dealing with hassle and beggars
In many destinations worldwide, dealing with the day
to day hassle of touts, sellers and the constant need to bargain
is just something you will have to get used to, especially in North Africa
and the Asian Sub-Continent. Beggars are a more universal problem: hell,
there are quite a few even in the richest countries. Nevertheless, beggars differ quite
substantially in the less developed world. With a large proportion of
its population living in poverty, even those with homes and jobs, those who do beg can be considered in dire straits:
they are often women, children
and the ill or disabled. Your heart strings are easily tugged by child
beggars and the very poor or misfortunate: landmine victims, those with
multiple sclerosis or polio, victims of earthquakes or other recent
disasters. Those are just a few examples - the point is guilt can over
ride you. You live in comfort and have everything, compared to their nothing.
But such feelings of benevolence cannot be sustained, such is the volume
of human misery around the world and you soon, in many cases, become
impervious to it. Those who set off on a third world trip with notions
of philanthropy will soon be overwhelmed and cut short.
Your compassion is tested
when your trip is compromised by sometimes constant hassle, even when
you are eating in restaurants, and when you consider that begging can
be big business. In India for example, parents have been known to inflict
a physical disability on children to insure begging income. Children
are often begging because they have been sent out to do so, often in gangs
and some beggars directly target tourists. Reiterating what you'll find
below under responsible tourism: do not give to beggars that are specifically
targeting tourists and especially not to children (not pens, sweets
or anything) something most travellers flaunt. Of course compassion
is required, but it can more effectively delivered through some of the ethical considerations
below and also by giving in small quantities where locals give (make
a point of giving if you have not been asked) and/or to schools plus
recognised charities. In the long run however you can (and probably
will) just get very worn down by beggars - read on how to deal
with hassle.
Hassle, in the way of pugnacious touts, salesmen,
rickshaw drivers and beggars in most less developed countries,
starts the moment you step off the plane and only stops when
you go to sleep or step back on the plane. It is at its worst
where there are high concentrations of tourists, in the Asian
Sub-Continent (worst: Northern tourist circuit India) and North Africa (worst:
parts of Egypt and Morocco).
The most
unpleasant thing about hassle is that it makes you jaded to
locals and compromises your appreciation of some
beautiful places/people. Try enjoying a walk down the Nile in
Luxor at sunset or a appreciating the spenders of Agra/Delhi
in India, the latter being places where all travellers seems
to be permanently on edge! Some of the worst places in the world are
the tourist hotspots of Egypt, Morocco, India (particularity
the state of Uttar Pradesh and Rajasthan) and Indonesia
(notably Kuta beach in Bali). However it is worth noting
that the following text and advice does really relate to
these kind of hotspots and is not reflective of the vast
majority of the world including the Americas where hassle is
limited.
Humour goes a long way and keeps you and everyone
in a good mood. Street seller
approach you selling an item that even they, for sure, know
you won't want. A guy offers a huge bar of laundry soap - smile and say 'no thanks, no water'!
Rickshaw driver insists you visit a shop, let him know you
are desperate for the toilet and if you don't get to your
destination fast you'll soil his vehicle! Taxi driver
repeatedly offers his services, tell him you'll on trip to
walk across the country (in India saying you're on a Salt March is a good one). You get the picture. One suggestion is to ask 'is it free?' in the local/native language, which works as treat. After
this for the more persistent breed who may still be
bothering you, be firm, make eye contact and let them know
your answer and then ignore (if you keep saying no, looking
or or didn't make it clear first it sends the message you
are not sure).
Simply ignoring is often the best policy
as it can be difficult to respond to everyone particular
when you are greeted which volley of hassle you might find
around major monuments.
Just keep taking to a companion and/or walking. Often
responding in anyway can and does encourage hassle, likewise
asking for a price of an item you are not serious about
buying will give you increased hassle - you'll often see
touts/salesmen/beggars following tourists for great lengths
of time, because they smell a commission/sale/donation in
their actions. It's not pleasant being followed, but it's one
of many physiological tactics you'll find employed, all of
which bully you to giving in to what in real terms isn't a
huge amount, but quite simply the golden rule is don't
get bullied. If a driver or other asks for a tip or a
greater than agree price for his service and you feel he
doesn't deserve it - don't give it. If someone offers to help
you out of kindness and then asks for payment or someone
takes payment and keeps standing with his hand out looking
disrespecting at the agree amount you gave, don't fold -
chances are it will only be over a small amount, but by
giving in you increase hassle for the next traveller and
that small amount would be better given to a needy beggar who
isn't targeting tourists. Don't be made to feel bad about
it, if you are clear at the onset you are not in the wrong.
|
The same goes for operators (be them hotel
or tour) and especially rickshaw drivers who hack up a price
or maintain they misunderstood your agreement. Again be firm and
don't get bullied. If necessary leave the agreed money on
the rickshaw seat (they often will not take it by hand) and
just walk off. You soon learn to be firm and very clear in
agreeing prices/services. Make sure you are understood and
do not give into any, 'yes, yes' or 'as you like' agreements
or acknowledgements. In places like India, with the right
(smiley, not ultra-serious) attitude and use of eye contact,
you will get a lot less hassle after a few weeks.
Equally drivers, salesmen and strangers
will often bombard you with question like 'where are you
staying?', 'have you visited this or that?', 'where are you
from?', or anything that gets you saying yes. On the whole
once they get talking, on friendly terms and have enough
information, services offered are much harder to turn down.
Once again it's just another tactic and as always there is
rarely a need to be rude, but if you don't want something
say no and if at the first question motives are clear, don't
enter into the conversation. A variance of this and probably the most jading and invidious
instances are when you meet a nice guy who after taking the
time to talk to you and often helping you, turns out to have
alternative motives and is selling something (see confidence tricks in the above
section).
To summarise, you will soon develop your own techniques
- be firm, polite and accompany your firm 'no thank you' (in
the local dialect if you can) with a smile. After that don't
make eye contact, don't keep repeatedly saying 'no' or get angry.
With salesmen, if you show any more interest this is when
touts are particularly determined and most frustrating.
On some occasions
beggars, especially children, will make body
contact, tugging on your clothing. In this case remove their
hand and looking them directly in the eye, make your 'no'
clear. When a
beggar or salesman sees you have no interest, they soon move
on to their next target. Remember constantly turning around
to say no over and over again shows you are obviously not sure
and worthy of further hassle.
'I think something you should
add to your section on begging is that if any backpacker is
really feeling like doling out some cash, he/she should give
it to someone who deserves it. In many countries around the
heavily touristed areas people beg because by
doing so, they know they can make much more than a hardworking
local will on a daily basis (and are often resented by
the locals in such cases). If feeling generous, one should give
a couple of extra bucks to the woman that works nine or ten
hour days at your guesthouse scrubbing your floors.'
- Brian Hnatiak
|
Bargaining
Constant bargaining is something else
you will probably have to deal with and it really is (in 8/10
cases, but which ones?) a they win, you lose situation, as the
smart seller's way is normally to massively inflate the price
for ignorant tourists. The actual price can be up to ten times less
than the starting price and it is when you hear these
quotations and
know the correct/fair price and have to spend so much time
and effort to achieve something close to it, is when you get so frustrated. If so
count to ten and
move onto the next vendor and make it clear why you are doing
so. This almost always happens in locations that have a
large tourist footfall. Many traders are honest and getting a little ripped-off
is just a fact of travelling - after all, you can afford it,
so don't get too enthusiastic or disillusioned.
This subject still needs more explanation
as it's often misrepresented in guide books and by other travellers,
who sometimes assert that every price is negotiable. This is
a half truth, almost always applicable to souvenir sellers,
taxi, rickshaw etc. drivers and a few others that become clear
when on the road, but not always in other situations depending
in large measure on the nature of the country you are in.
Prices are always going to be higher in a
sellers market than a buyers one, so if you need something
like a long distance ride in a taxi or a souvenir where
there is much competition don't get too enthusiastic and
waiting to be approached rather than approaching works
wonders. Equally the western mentality of asking a price and
retreating if not interested can be considered as an insult.
Bottom line is if you don't have serious intentions of
buying - don't ask the price and certainly don't start
negotiating, doing so will only invite hassle.
It goes without saying that the problem facing
the traveller going from town to town and country to country
is knowing when they are being asked a fair price, and thus
hitting the right balance between politely paying up and aggressive
posturing to establish if they are being ripped off. To complicate
the matter further is the notion of a fixed price, as locals
will bargain as well. The best approach is to visit a few stalls
and get a feel for a price (walking away will always lower a
very high price) and if a stall owner is reluctant to negotiate,
you can assume you have a fair price. Likewise quotations
that start with the word 'around' or 'something like' are
certainly far off realistic.
Conversely, if buying a 'daily item' like a bottle of water, ice cream, bus farSe or similar, and you find yourself in a bargaining situation, where maybe the seller has dropped the price after your hesitation, don't bargain. These are not items anyone bargains for and you are simply being ripped-off. In the event tell the vender to get knotted and walk to another seller. However let's keep things in
perspective, in experience it is only in areas with a high
tourist volume that absurd prices are asked and everyone
seems keen to add their own 'little commission'.
As stated, tourist souvenir sellers (especially
African curio sellers and mass tourism areas of Asia) in particular
always ask an inflated price. These are often so whimsical that
you can't really have a rule of thumb. But even when buying
curio (African wooden carvings) and similar, you can bargain
too far. Have watched a couple off an overland truck in Malawi
buy a carving which the seller wanted the equivalent of US$10
for. It was a nice piece and probably took about two to three
days to make. Generally the going price for an item like this
would be US$7 which the seller soon dropped to. However the
couple then spent the next 15 minutes getting him down to US$5.
Another example that was e-mailed, was in Sumatra, where
one of a tourist group hassled a stall keeper to a point where
she sold an item for a 5 cent profit. This sort of behaviour is disgraceful and
goes on all the time (see the 'value of your money' write up in
the following section). Rather than giving to beggars, consider
being a little generous when dealing with individual souvenir and fruit sellers (not
large stalls).
One argument often heard is that travellers have an ethical
duty to bargain prices as low as possible, otherwise
they risk triggering inflation that will eventually
put goods out of the reach of locals.
If you think
hard about this, apart from a few extreme cases, you'll
only see this sort of statement to be obnoxiously self-serving. |
Overcharging on transport, private or otherwise,
is common place in many countries and there is little
you can do about it except be philosophical. Nobody likes
being ripped off but if that's the price, you have to
pay it and if it is a little inflated then why should
a few dollars extra ruin your day/trip? That said, always
arrange a price before you get into a taxi or any other
mode of transport: ask a local if unsure. Some drivers
are very good with 'as you like' or 'cheap' type sayings,
mimicking bad English. Be firm - don't get bullied.
If there is no meter, agree a fair price before you set off. |
Responsible tourism
Travel to the furthest corners of the globe
is now commonplace. The mass movement of people for leisure
and indeed business is a major source of foreign exchange and
economic development in many parts of the world. The benefits
of travel are self-evident for both host and travellers. However, there
is a big downside, with tourism far from being the smokeless
industry it is self-promoted as. Impacts can seem remote, like
the pollution caused by your air travel, but individual choices and awareness can make a difference
and collectively, travellers can effectively shape a more responsible
and sustainable industry. The following considerations are solely
a few ideas, but should always be borne in mind:
-
Avoid giving to beggars who you can see
are specifically targeting tourists. It creates more hassle
for future tourists and a non-sustainable dependence. See
dealing with hassle and beggars above.
-
Spend money on locally produced (rather
than imported) goods and use common sense when bargaining
- your few bucks saved may be a day's income or more .
-
Learn about local etiquette and culture
(the 'culture shock' series is very good if this is something
you want to do in-depth, otherwise the front/back of your
guidebook and a few questions is normally sufficient). Consider
local norms and behaviour, especially dress appropriately
(the biggest sinners are normally Americans, Australians
and (the norm) Israelis) for local cultures and situations.
-
Use water and electricity carefully -
travellers may receive preferential supply while locals
are overlooked.
-
Don't buy souvenirs or goods made from
wildlife, no matter how cool, unless they are clearly sustainable.
The same goes with removing antiquities, whether bought
or nabbed by you, from the country. Besides being unethical,
the above can land you in trouble on the border.
-
By getting involved in illegal activities
such as purchasing drugs or prostitution, you are supporting
an industry that ends in misery for suppliers (and sometimes
buyers). A good example is the quest to rid poppy crops
from the Golden Triangle or the Filipino sex trade.
-
Always ask before taking a noticeable
photograph or video of people.
-
Always consider staying in local accommodation
rather than foreign-owned hotels, and give less popular guesthouses
without a guidebook listing a chance.
-
If you are
a smoker, please take your butts with you when you leave
a beautiful place - they leak out toxic chemicals into
the environment. An empty film canister fits into a pocket
easily and is great for carrying butts.
You should have very little time or love for
those travellers who carry around sweets or trinkets
which they then hand out indiscriminately to children.
The motivation for this sort of thing is entirely selfish,
in that it makes the giver feel good about him or herself,
not to mention, there is something nauseatingly paternalistic
about dewy-eyed tourist adopting a beatific smile at
the sight of 'adorable' children scrambling in the dirt
for small change or whatever.
A last concern (admittedly a selfish
one) is whether we really want to encourage children
to beg from the next traveller who passes through. There
are towns and villages all over the world where even
right now children will ask travellers for money or
sweets ('bon-bon' is a favourite) or a pen (another favourite
implying education - the child is just more sussed than
one asking for a shilling, a rupee or a dollar) perhaps
a hundred times and hour. Then there are other places
where children are genuinely friendly and never ask
you for a thing and all it will take is only one naive
tourist and a big bag of sweets to transform the latter
into the former.
|
Above
all else, never forget the value of your money, how
lucky you are to have it and what it means to others.
Lets take Africa: from a United Nations
statistic more than half of African countries have
an average annual per capita income of US$600. This
is the same in many parts of Asia and Latin America.
So your shoestring budget of $20 per day is more than
many earn in a week; your week's budget could be up to
a year's worth of secondary education and it goes on.
The deal is, we all get
into haggling, want to keep the price of our trip down
and hate foreigner pricing, but a fruit vendor's profits
for a day could be as low as $1 and he needs to get
the bus home! You'll read posts on the net by travellers
writing about their stay in $50 a night foreign owned
hotels in places like Myanmar and then in the next line
go off on one about the taxi to the airport being $1,
but the driver asking them for $2 and how you have to
stand firm. Be realistic talk to locals and develop your own understanding.
|
We are like many
others, quite particular about this issue and consider all the
effort put into this site worthy if only to put this point
across and get future travellers on board and making their feelings
known out on the road. This practice of handing
out gifts is presumably a response to the guilt instilled by
the visible gulf in wealth that separates most Westerners
from
Africans, Latin Americans and Asians. It is a perfectly understandable
response, but don't think it is in anyway the right one. Consider
why this gulf exists, and you will recognise that the most constructive
role tourism can play in a depressed economy is not random handouts
but to encourage legitimate and sustainable local business.
Considering that a high proportion of money
earned by package tours stays in the hands of foreign investors,
independent (all be it budget) travellers have a particularly
high level of control over where their money goes. Collectively
backpackers, even just the visitors to this site, can make a difference
by not salving their consciences with a few ultimately meaningless
donations to beggars or children, but by thinking about how and
where they spend their money and whenever possible lending their
support to locally owned businesses and community projects.
You are not expected to be a saint, but the
above is of particular importance for backpackers as they often
get to far more remote destinations than the average tourist.
You may well find on your travels some wonderfully isolated
places and think - this is not a place for tourists/backpackers.
Conversely, you will almost certainly go to some remote places,
completely changed by the number of visitors - the hill tribes
of Thailand, for example.
E-mailed comment: On my first trips to undeveloped countries I found it quite hard to deal with begging children, especially if you even happen to see their parents (or any grown-ups in "charge") pressurizing them to hassle (white) travellers in order get money out of them (see, for example, Angkor Wat, where you can hardly walk a few meters without this happening). I personally can't support this and don't give the kids any money but it is in fact breaking my heart. Everyone needs to find their own way of dealing with it but if you like children, even only in the slightest, I found the best way to deal with it is to actually chat with the kids, talk to them and play with them - most of them don't get this kind of attention very often and they really do appreciate it. Especially in Cambodia, the kids love practicing their English and it even happened to me that the children who wanted to sell us yet another bracelet at some beach near Sihanoukville in the end gave us their stash of bracelets for watch while they had a dip in the sea. Of course that's only useful if you like children but it'd be a pity if people only walked around regarding them as a dirty trouble while they are often made to begging or hassling, or do it because they have no other choice. -
Laura (UK/Germany)
Guidebooks
Nowhere is the phrase 'you can't live with them and you can't
live without them' so appropriate. The often invidious guidebook is very much
a travel essential, increasingly dictating to whole generations where to go,
how to get there and what to do. As touted by their publishers they are becoming
modern day Bibles, some already assuming titles like 'The Book'.
All over the world you can see twenty somethings - and increasingly
older - often desperate for succour, with their heads stuck in guidebooks. Reading,
re-reading, desperately trying to find the best possible routes and the best
possible places as if encoded somewhere in the pages. Often pens are at hand
to underline or highlight anything that reads even slightly as an opinion or
solid recommendation. The problem is everyone is doing the same and generally
reading from the same text - let's not beat around the bush, it's Lonely Planet,
with its appealing glossy colour pictures, familiar layout and youthful feel.
At well-trodden sights worldwide you will see individual after individual (in
the loosest possible way) strolling around guidebook in hand with their finger
in the relevant page.
There are recommendations of field tested guides, per country
in the country summary section and in the recommended reading section (a big thank you if you
choose to shop through here), but here's a quick low down:
» Lonely Planet (aka. LP): The most ubiquitous of all guides, often with solid information, but
not always up-to-date. Often patronizing, boring with a recycled first
100 or so pages and recommendations generally over subscribed. They
do cover some interesting locations (the Caucasus, Iran and Syria for
example) and sometimes are the only choice. Their region in one, or
shoestring titles are appallingly lacking in depth and information.
LP's vary from very good to awful.
It all depends on the edition and author. However, their maps are probably
the best of all guides. Newer titles are now published in a jazzy format
(with questionable 'authors choice' recommendations), but can be better
than older versions. This major change for those who remember the original format is very much a result of the original founders and authors (the Wheelers) no longer in control of the operation.
The new formats do look more professional and as a result are less aimed at typical backpackers, losing their youthful, independent, adventurous spirit. The increasing professionalism of the management (some would say bottom line focused, milk the cash cow business acumen) is likely an attempt to break into the massive United States market (which is relatively conservative and prone to litigation) and increase revenue, all of which has meant that the quirky, amateurish (in the best sense) tone of the early books has diminished.
For example, an early edition of Africa on a shoestring has the heading 'Drugs', which includes information on purchasing drugs (mainly marijuana), while the 1980 edition of South-East Asia on a Shoestring includes information on how to purchase fake student ID cards - all of which you would now never find. Other quirks included some hand-drawn maps and the occasional strong/radical opinion. Some strong opinions remain, but they are party lines and for the best part closed minded. In 2007, the BBC purchased Lonely Planet (The Wheelers keep 25%), so we can see where this takes the business.
Lonely Planet's initial strength has caused some problems. With many equating Lonely Planet with backpackers. The series now tries to make a clearer split between the backpacker-only products and those (now the majority) aimed at more affluent travellers and tourists. These are by far the best selling and most popular
guides where a recommendation can make or break a hotel or restaurant. (see image)
» Bradt: Acclaimed African guidebooks, their East and Southern Africa backpackers
manual is a very fine guide indeed, perhaps the best and most down-to-earth
written and detailed filled out there. Others are quite good especially African and other out of the way countries, but can suffer from being out-of-date and have a somewhat
amateur look to them compared to the big boys of the industry.
|
» Rough Guide: Maybe the most in-depth and informative of guides available. Their structure
can need getting use to if you have only previously used other guides.
Sometimes seemingly aimed at older travellers and those with their own
transportation, these books are a good read as well as a good guide.
However, titles don't cover as wide a range of countries as LPs and
older titles are nowhere near as good as newer ones, which are first
rate in most cases. As with Lonely Planet, multi-region guides are far
from perfect. European guides are excellent and their alternatives to
over popular titles i.e. LP's India/Thailand are a perfect alternative
to get away from the crowds. If you are planning a trip a great first
stop in the planning process is Rough Guide's First Time
series.
» Let's Go: Once
you get past their dogged look (new editions have a new format
and look a lot smarter, but are less budget focused) and the fact that
they are highly American, with sometimes not always good humour,
they're not bad. The fact that they do contain humour is actually a
real plus, so is the fact that they are one of the only guides that
makes real recommendations and focuses on budget travel.
They are also one of the most accurate, being updated yearly.
Accommodation listings are however slim and normally include only
a few backpackery choices - which may not be what you're after. These
guides are perhaps best avoided in regions with many young American
travellers. Let's Go guides are written and updated by Harvard students
every year. In recent years more exotic locations, i.e. Middle East have been left un-updated and the focus is on 'safer' destinations
in Europe.
» Footprint: An excellent series, intelligently put together, sometimes on
fine paper (really condensing content) and perhaps the only multi-country
guides worth having. The South or Central America Handbook is a serious
project and puts the Lonely Planet and other versions to shame. Limited titles
and often terrible town maps are their only let down. Footprint also
seem to rave about places off-the-beaten track that when you arrive
can be less than inspiring.
» Others: There
are also good German (Stefan Loose) and French language (Routard) guidebooks available, as well as free FAQ travel guides that can be
found on the internet. The
German 'Reise Know-How' and other non-English guides are often
direct translations of Lonely Planet, but some editions aren't and
have greater detail and accuracy.
You will also sometimes find excellent regional guides such as 'BUG' Australia, NZ and UK/Ireland, or the excellent 'In your pocket' free city guides in Eastern Europe.
|
Guidebooks are necessary (as a sort
of safety net) in most destinations, and you will have to excuse the contempt
that stems from travellers' over dependence on them and their failure to see
past the blue spines of the Lonely Planet guides. Contrary to popular belief
it is possible to travel without a guidebook: you'll find plenty of information
available from locals, guesthouses, tourist information and other sources. Not
to mention the numerous opportunities you'll have to peruse the guidebooks of
others.
It's hard to gauge if flicking through one in a book store or if using a very recently updated copy in the most popular destinations of well traveled countries, but many a guidebook is full of rubbish. Many companies bang out guides for as many countries as they can, whereas others employ authors who really know the region and know what travel is like in order to present the most relevant information. Considering the budget many travel writers are given and the range they must cover (often as quickly as possible), it is hardly surprising that some will be happy to recommend restaurants and hotels after only spending 10mins checking them out or maybe not even visiting at all. Thomas Kohnstamm a former Lonely Planet writer in an interview promoting his book in the (Oz) Sunday Telegraph spoke freely of fallible methods used. Best of all was his claim that despite a contribution to the LP Colombia he had never been to the country, "They didn't pay me enough to go to Colombia. I wrote the book in San Francisco. I got the information from a chick I was dating". More amusing were claims such as noting "the table service is friendly" in a restaurant he says he had sex with a waitress on a table after hours. Probably one of the free services he said he would often accept. Such claims are nothing new, take a look at an interesting article (if the link is still working), titled: the
truth about guidebooks, written by a former author.
Even the best title is far from perfect, and series vary
dramatically as authors and publication dates vary. The best
tip to offer is don't be afraid to try something new. Pick a guide
that is not the normal choice. How can you say Lonely Planet is the
best guide when you haven't tried another?
One of the best tips you'll get from this site is (if you can, i.e. a good alternative is available) at
least try to travel with a non-LP guide especially if you are heading
to a popular destination. Along with the launch of a new format (which is better in some ways, but much
more opinionated (a dangerous thing for such a widely used guide)) and
many new 'packaged' products, LP has certainly taken a more corporate
turn now that the Wheelers (original founders) have sold a large share
of it.This coincides with the company taking yet another step up their
own arse, so proud and confident they are of their travel empire. The
emphasis is now very much on selling rather than creating original
guides and independent advice.
Nevertheless, for the most part there is nothing wrong with Lonely Planet guides. All guides have their faults and LPs are no different - only you will be another LP sheep, walking around with the same bland guide as thousands (make that hundreds of thousands) of others.
|
E-mailed suggestion 'With
large regional guide books (you don't need to do this for single country
guides), that you have no chance of reselling, a friend suggested tearing
pages out as needed. Not only reducing the weight of the book while
travelling, but meaning you need only carry a few pages (e.g. map) around
when sightseeing or in town. Was appalled initially at the idea, but
when tried realised it made sense and made you feel a lot better since
most of the information was so bad!'' If you do decide to rip them apart so that you can only carry the pieces that are/will be useful to you the best way to do this [for the LP among others] is to put them in the microwave. Usually about 30 seconds will do. It melts the glue in the spine allowing the pages to come out effortless and more importantly without any loss of information' - Nicholas Shirley
It's a great idea. Give it a go if you have a huge guide, you'll
never look back. Of course a little photocopying is another
option. It's well worth
making a copy of maps and other relevant info to take out with you when looking around. Who wants to carry a great guidebook with them everywhere?
|
A good indication of a guidebook
series is to consider the title that launched them. For Lonely Planet - South
East Asia on a Shoestring; Let's Go - Europe (one of the world's best selling guidebook
title); Rough Guide - Greece (a relative newcomer and mainly focused around Europe);
Footprint - South America Handbook (the world's longest running guidebook and
the essential series for the whole Latin America region).
Staying in touch
You may have notions that your exotic travel will take you far
away from the modern world and all means of staying in touch. This
is, however, rarely the case for any more than a short spell as the Internet is virtually everywhere (at least in any city of any
size across the world with very, very few exceptions) and ADSL connections are finding there way into more and more larger cities
of developing nations and many smaller towns that have a regular
tourist/traveller through-flow.
The spread of mobile communications, the internet and the
recent rise of faster and better connections has been phenomenal,
making the world much smaller and making staying in touch with
others and the world at large a breeze. If you don't already have
one, create yourself a free webmail e-mail address/account (such as Hotmail, Yahoo Mail or
better Gmail)
that can be accessed from any Internet terminal in the world. Prices
for internet access are normally quite reasonable and you never
normally have to search too hard for a connection on the tourist trail.
An internet connection keeps you in touch with the things that
normally matter at home, such as keeping track of friends, family, the news, sports or anything else. Faster connections are opening up
a whole new world to travellers, from downloading pod-casts and
e-mailing the odd photo home to updating an on-line travelogue or
even listening to live radio shows. You find many PCs in internet
cafes that have MSN/Yahoo Messenger installed and this is
an excellent way to make contact with friends/relatives and have a
live chat without the cost of an international phone call.
It is also not uncommon to find in larger more professional
internet cafes located normally in the larger cities of Asian
'technophile' nations (such as Manila, Seoul, Singapore etc),
web cams and headsets you can use (via MSN or other) to send a live
image home. If a web cam is not present, which to be honest is
something of a novelty, someone back home will still be able to
stream you their image via newer versions of MSN or other software
installed.
It is also worth noting and mentioning here, that
bigger more professional internet places will often burn your
digital photos to a CD. Many will have a card reader, but not
all, so you might want to take your own connection lead. To
generalise horribly, you will find this service in any major capital
or larger city which is a significant tourist attraction in Asia. In Latin
America the same is true, but you need to look harder. In Africa you
have to look harder still. In Europe/North America with less
widespread internet cafes you can still find these services.
Wherever you are, if in doubt, just ask. Most places have a CD
burner at the desk and are happy to help even if they don't
advertise the service.
|
It really
depends where you are, but slow connections still haunt most travellers and can be incredibly
frustrating especially since most of us have become so use to ADSL
speeds in the developed world. If you are off the beaten track in
the developing world, you'll need patience, but here are a few tips:
For the
fastest connections in locations with less than inspiring speeds,
look for empty internet cafes at periods where there is limited
traffic on the net (early morning). Also bear in mind that many
internet cafes only have one or two connections which are
shared/split between users. So two users equals half the speed, four
users quarter the speed and so on. It's worth setting your webmail account
to only show 10 or less messages at a time, diverting junk mail into
a separate folder and not having a webmail account full of
advertising (most of the major providers) to speed up your webmail
use when connections are painfully slow.
Couples can easily share the same
webmail account to save paying for the lengthy log on process just
to check for new mail. Two users can log onto the same account at
the same time - no problem. If a connection is very poor, leave the
provider and come back later - periodic network problems are common
where technology infrastructure is still developing. However, such
measures are becoming less and less necessary as ADSL connections
find their way into more and more of the developing world. Nowadays,
in big cities of even the most tin-pot countries you can normally
find excellent speed connections. |
Well worth doing and a perfect use
for your webmail account is storing your important info
(reference numbers, important phone numbers, insurance details, etc.)
on your internet account (just put it in an e-mail and send it to
yourself). If you have access to a scanner you can store copies of
your important documents on-line. If you lose your originals and
hard-copies you can always retrieve them from the net.
As any web search will testify, a new
generation of travellers on longer trips are frequently making use of web
blogs. They're free to set up from numerous providers, you can upload photos, everyone can read
them (or you can limit access) and friends/family have the option of
posting messages, making it a little more personal. Hardly a
necessity, but does have some merits such as if you don't have time
to email all of your friends and family (assuming they are actually
interested in your travels), but don't want to send impersonal group
emails.
Phoning
home is often expensive, but costs are falling with call centres
found in many larger cities (often using internet phone or
international discounters). In developed countries
buy calling cards locally and use on pay phones. New Zealand to
Europe with a locally bought calling card would be cheaper than a
North - South Island call in New Zealand. Such calling cards are
available all over reasonably developed Asian countries such as
Thailand, Singapore, Philippines etc. (try convenience stores
such as 7-Eleven).
In much less developed countries you will have to
really hunt for these calling cards if available, so a good method
to talk to someone back home is to ask the hotel you are staying in
if you can receive a phone call there. Then e-mail/SMS a time and
number to those who wish to call.
Worth noting is if you have an international SIM (mentioned left) and it is giving you free incoming calls where you are, using services like Jajah.com cuts costs still
further. You could take a calling card from your
home country (e.g. BT charge card or AT&T) with you for emergencies,
but beware using them is very expensive and unnecessary.
In addition to Yahoo/MSN messenger mentioned above,
many will no doubt be aware of Skype, which
allows you to call nearly or absolutely free from anywhere to
anywhere, transfer huge data (photos/music) files and live text
messages as with MSN. You just a need a to find a internet place with a headset or webcam and the free software installed. This really depends on regions, but to be
honest, it's still not that common. Calls are free Skype-to-Skype, and for 'Skypeout'
(to call regular phones) or 'Skypein' (to receive calls from regular
phones) only a small fee is charged and call costs are
incredibly low. It's
all pretty cool if you are in a position to utilise it all. There's
loads more information and probably a better explanation of services
and charges on Skype's website. |
Probably
the biggest measure of a rapidly developing world aside from the
proliferation of internet cafes is the use of cellular / mobile
phones even in some of the world's poorer countries. Major North
American/Australian and European networks which allow roaming, will
pick up a signal in the vast majority of the populated world. Taking a cell
phone has many advantages and is recommended (see the 'What to Pack' page), but several
disadvantages, most notably the potential cost of actually using it. If roaming on your home network,
call costs (made or received) will be significant, but SMS message costs are
manageable, normally being a fixed rate and free to receive.
If you intend to use your mobile a lot, really the best bet is to buy a local pay-as-you-go SIM card which
can normally be found without too much trouble (make sure your phone is 'unlocked' if you plan to do this). However this is only really practical if you are staying in one destination for sometime and if moving around from country to country like most, highly impractical and uneconomical. The second solution is to buy one of the now widely available international SIM cards, which can be great, but are far from an ideal solution simply because how useful they are in saving you money depends on where you are in the world. They do however allow you to receive calls for free in many countries and reduce call costs in many others compared to roaming on your home network, but only really do so in the developed world. If you are travelling to the likes of Spain, France, Germany, etc., the savings you can make are significant and make them well worth having. Take the same trip, but through India, China, Thailand and the like, and making and receiving calls will be almost as expensive - if not sometimes more - than roaming with your home network - that is astronomical if used for any length of time. One such company that comes recommended is Go Sim (although there are many alternatives such as 0044 and doing the research on where and when you will save money is recommended before diving in. |
Of course
you can send postcards and letters as a means of staying in touch, which although a little old school
for a younger generation, are still nice and allows for inclusion of a small
tangible present for those at home. On a longer trip it is quite feasible and a good
idea to post many of your purchases and unused equipment home. A
great place to do this is Bangkok. Here is a sample of the costs to
anywhere in the world (prices in Thai Baht - see on-line for
exchange rates, about 45 to the Euro) - see below.
A nice box is provided at a small cost and the air option
will arrive in the Europe in about five days, sea will take considerably
longer at more risk. Mailing things home from most of Asia is
no problem. Burma is cheap, but higher risk, Vietnam expensive. India
and Iran are good/cheap. With large parcels always get your stamps franked
before you give the item in and pay extra for registration if possible.
Costs are much higher in Australia & NZ, and especially Latin America. |
| Kg |
Air |
Surface |
Sea |
| 1 |
900 |
950 |
800 |
| 2 |
1280 |
1125 |
1080 |
| 3 |
1660 |
1500 |
1360 |
| 4 |
2040 |
1495 |
1640 |
|
A guide as to how reliable/fast the postal service is in your country
of stay can always be found in a guidebook. Remember, if you are sending something home new you have purchased on your trip and of high value, there is a chance that you or whoever picks it up, can get hit for customs/import duty at its destination.
You can also receive letters via the GPO's
(General Post Offices) who will hold your mail, addressing in the following
way will suffice: Poste Restante, Attn: First Name LAST NAME, GPO, Town,
Country. Or if you have an American Express card (AmEx issue a booklet of all
their addresses) you can receive mail at their offices.
Eating and vegetarianism
For the most part, if sticking to a fairly standard and well
trodden route even in far flung destinations, getting a decent meal or at least
something okay is not a big problem and nothing to worry about - with places
catering to tourists plentiful. Being a veggie will limit your
choices in many regions, but will not be too great a problem - you will pretty
much always find something suitable to eat even if you are a vegan.
Within the developed world such as Western Europe the
greater challenge is not what to eat, but how to do so on a budget. In such
places cheaper restaurants and take-outs can be located with a little exploring
and the help of a guidebook; and a fast food joints will never be far away, but for the most part a little self-catering makes
better sense for those who are sick of burgers and won't want all their funds gone after a few weeks.
Supermarkets and convenience stores are normally plentiful and having your own
knife-fork-spoon kit plus a Swiss army knife complete with bottle, can and tin
opener will allow you to take advantage of them to a greater extent. To go the
whole hog you could pick up a plastic plate/bowl. All this is perfect for food
on the go, a cheap snack (whipping up a sandwich, peeling fruit, a yogurt or spreading something on a cracker) and for trips when you don't have the time to always eat out and
spend a good deal of time on trains/buses. When staying in hostels, most will
have a basic kitchen you can use and supply something basic for breakfast. However, as you will find out these vary dramatically
in quality, facilities and hygiene.
Away from the developed world in popular destinations in the developing world such
as Thailand, India, Nepal, Peru and tens of others on the beaten track (pretty
much all the places you will want to go) good food can be found in both local
and international forms in hotels and towns with no difficulty at all. If you
want to use more local eating places, you'll see loads - just be brave and head
in. A guidebook or locals will always point you in the right direction. Away from the
tourist runs of South-East/Southern Asia and Central/South America in destinations like
much of Africa/Central Asia and out of the way places in the aforementioned
regions you can occasionally run into some problems where you need to be a little
more adventurous since traveller friendly places are pretty rare. You'll no
doubt find a fair few places without a menu (or at least one you can make any
sense of - see image of menu in Iran) or anyone who speaks English,
so have an idea of what you want beforehand, point to someone else's food or
learn the appropriate word for the type of food you want such as 'fish', 'omelet',
'chicken'. It goes without saying that if you really want to travel on the cheap it's these local places and street stalls where you can make your funds stretch
seriously far compared to eating at the numerous places set up to cater for
foreigners. (see image - resulting
order from menu linked image above)
It's in these cheap local/street eateries away from the tourist runs where veggies will find life a little more difficult,
but items such as veg fried rice or an omelette are perfect to fall back on.
It's true to say many cultures don't understand the concept of being a vegetarian.
It's really most difficult to keep to a vegetarian diet in Islamic countries
such as any Arab nation, Iran, Pakistan, Western China and especially Central Asia (CIS). In these
cases and others self-catering is by far the best option if a veggie
or otherwise you find yourself in a bind. Fruit and bread will always be easy
to find, the same normally goes for tomatoes, cheese, nuts etc. In general being
a fishetarian (know as a pescetarian i.e. eating fish/seafood) makes life much easier, and if you're
eating chicken life is easier still since this is the staple of so many diets.
In less developed places being a vegan can make things very difficult.
In the country summary section you will find a note regarding
the ease of eating and eating veggie in each country. Concluding: 9/10 times
being a veggie is not a problem (with a few compromises) and there are many places,
mainly India, where it's a joy.
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I've been a vegan for four years, I absolutely love to travel and I never really found it a big problem even in underdeveloped countries.
What I found very handy is a little book called 'vegan passport'.
It contains an explanation of all the things a vegan doesn't eat in 56 languages (93% of the world covered). It really does make travelling a lot easier for hard-core veggies.
My personal experience is that people in underdeveloped countries usually are very responsive to your personal wishes and it happened to me a lot of times that people (after I managed to make them understand what I don't want in my food) created new delicious vegan meals especially for me and I also never found it a problem to find fruit, vegetables, nuts, rice or legumes anywhere I traveled.
In developed countries I never found it a problem at all, in underdeveloped countries being vegan does limit your choices I'll admit, but I never had a problem finding at least something and it's a very safe way of eating in some areas (salmonella, food poisoning etc.) - Kathi
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It's worth noting here, that when on the go and travelling
hard/fast it can be difficult to take proper meals and get a balance diet. Nuts
are normally available to buy and are a great alternative to the omnipresent
choice of candy/biscuits plus an excellent source of protein/fat). Many travellers
use vitamin pills, buy fruit regularly and will keep a few snacks in their bag
incase they get stuck in a jam (bus break-down, restaurants closed etc.)
- good advice. It's a little patronising to say, but fairly obvious, that if
you don't allow the time or budget and start skipping meals or eating irregularly/unhealthily,
you're not doing yourself any favours and will feel run down and
eventually probably get sick. The same deal goes with replacing fluids.
You don't need to be, but for those still worried then a visual translator, which is card full of images (such as food) which you point at for some basic communication can be useful.
English language media
This varies from country to country (see country summaries), but the world is a small place
and you can normally get CNN, BBC World or MTV and a copy of Newsweek
or Time. In big cities you'll find no problem at all. In less populated
areas you will need to stick to the Internet. In the Asian sub-continent, Middle
East and Latin America, many hotels (even many hostels) have satellite TV even if this means spending a bit more on your room once in a while. In India,
Nepal, Thailand and Central America (among others) you can watched Live Premiership
football, NBA basketball or American sit-coms.
In major tourist areas such as Bali, Nepal,
Cusco, Goa, Guatemala, Greek islands and Thailand you will find cafes
and restaurants playing pirated new movie releases for free or a small
charge. Cinemas (movie theatres) are another overlooked - pretty
much always in English (apart from Russia and the CIS, Italy, France and Ex-French Africa) - cheap way to escape where you are, the heat
and see some moving pictures.
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Cinemas are particularly good and widespread
in Latin America and 9/10 times films are shown in their original language.
The British and American councils in some major cities have a
reading room and Internet that can be used even if for a small charge.
» The point of all this: to fill your time, escape your surroundings,
stave of any home sickness... - no matter where you are, especially if you
have been going for a long time.
|
Most countries do have their own very
cheap English language newspaper and as stated Time and Newsweek are
available in all big cities with ex-pat populations worldwide. A LW radio will allow you, for what it's worth, to pick up BBC World
Service, Voice of America and others.
|
Books
Outside of the developed world, India/Nepal, Dar es Salaam/Zanzibar,
South East Asia (cheap pirated novels and guidebooks), Costa Rica, Guatemala
and Ecuador, getting reasonable priced second hand or new/good English language
books can be difficult. Most major tourist destinations and capitals have the
odd shop with a few English-language books kicking around, but unless you're into trashy novels or classics,
finding something worth reading is challenging.
It's not easy to make a sweeping statement with regards to
where you might come across a good selection of reading material and new guidebooks.
Asia is by far the easiest place to find such titles with massive selections
in Bangkok, India and Kathmandu aside very reasonable selections in most other
country's capital cities. You'll find the majority written in English, but where
there is a steady tourist stream (say India or Thai beach resorts) second hand
German, French and Italian books float around. Where English isn't the first
major European language spoken such as continental Europe, Latin America or
West Africa where tourist aren't in steady supply, you'll find availability
pretty poor, but will often come across at least something in certain destinations
(for example Banos in Ecuador). For the most it's either feast or famine.
Buying books in the likes of Bangkok or Nepal, many
stores state they will buy them back in good condition at 50% of purchase
price. In practice they will do anything to avoid this, so get some
evidence that you brought your book there and of the price. Generally,
especially in Bangkok, book shops will give you such a pathetic trade-in
amount for your much loved books, that you may well feel better just
giving them to someone, and if lucky, exchanging them for something else
worthwhile. Occasionally you'll find a not-for profit exchange place,
although it's common to find either 'trade two, get one' policies or pathetic
selections.
If you do plan to re-sell a guidebook these will
always fetch a good price: you may want to pick up a plastic/paper cover
for it - stopping it getting too battered. Pirated books that originate
mainly from South Vietnam and end up in Bangkok and Kathmandu can't
be re-sold for a good price. New guidebooks will cost about the same
or a little more than they would in your home country. Other titles
are okay value.
|
Travelling
is a great time to read and picking the right titles really helps you
get under the skin of a culture and to have a much better and more measured
understanding of it. Take the excellent Wild Swans for example. Anyone
who has read this will know and understand China perhaps better than
someone who has visited. Not combining reading a book like this with
a visit is only eating half the cake. Even if you are not a big reader,
you are strongly encouraged to give it a try. If you're not sure what
to go for then on this site are a number of pages recommending a few
books that you can't go wrong with. None are too deeply written or boring,
many talk through a backpacker's perspective, many are funny and a good
number are probably unlike anything you might have read before.
To see
these pages click here and select the region
you're interested in.
|
For avid readers in foreign lands
who can never find English language books at a reasonable price, look for the
'classics' section in the local bookstores. There is usually a fairly large
selection for the equivalent of US$3 or $4 as compared to US$20+ for current
titles. You'll find many books throughout Eastern Europe, Africa and also in
Asia.
If you are big into reading and not
visiting any of the destinations mentioned (see additional information per country
in the country summary section), then take a few
books with you or pick them up in Oz, NZ, South Africa, the USA, etc.
Washing clothes
Never
a problem. With the right fabric clothes, a locally bought sachet of
washing powder and travel washing line, doing your own washing
is very easy and it will normally dry over night. It's always possible
to buy little packets of washing powder and if not a bar of soap or shampoo is
always good for the job. Here's a great link for inspiration.
However,
in most countries you can get laundry done easily and fairly cheaply through
your hotel/hostel or local laundry outlet. Problems are rare, but be
cautious especially about having technical fibres washed. Asking for
a cold wash and no tumble-drying makes sense if you're worried. Considering this you
can happily do most of your washing (such as odd items) yourself and
have a proper wash done every few weeks.
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'Fantastic site, very helpful, and definitely
not as dramatic as some others I've seen, e.g. take axe with which to
build small fortress.... *sigh* ' - 'I've only travelled in SE Asia,
and I'm going back next week. I only had one thing that seemed the highest
priority for me to get for the return trip: hand sanitizer gel. I couldn't find it anywhere in Thailand, Cambodia or in HCMC (Saigon)
last time, and good lord, did I want it! The thing I'm leaving behind
this time?
Anything involved with clothes laundering: the laundries
there are so cheap, save me the headache of packing damp clothes, and,
frankly, I don't think my clothes have EVER been cleaner.' - Carrie
Hart
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Cultural expectations and culture shock
Many people arrive in Africa, Asia, The Middle East or Latin
America with what can only be described as wildly romantic expectations about
its people and feel completely let down that everyone is dressed in Western
clothing and in villages where people are in ethnic dress, they are only interested
in selling you something. Disillusionment of this sort is most extreme in Northern
Thailand and East Africa. However, to complain as tourists do, that the world
is too commercialised is a little absurd. Those posers and dancers are meeting a
demand, doing a job just like you and I, and have every right to expect payment.
Culture shock is often both over and
understated, and varies considerably as to where you first land. Above
all, allow a few days to adapt and expect in less developed countries
a much higher level of dirt, pollution and noise than you have at home,
being unable to follow the language, feeling somewhat of a target for
crime and putting up with accommodation and transport that is not great
at the best of times.
This is all perfectly normal and you adapt pretty quickly - in fact
culture shock is the best part of travel and the reason why many do
it - and there are always ways to recharge. Conversely, many travellers
find culture shock on their return from a long trip a greater issue. For many it is much harder to get back into their normal life where everything all of a sudden seems very quiet and shockingly unexotic.
|
Now here's the good bit.
By its very nature, independent travel allows for a greater intermingling
with ordinary citizens, the vast majority of whom are not intertwined
with tourism. Backpackers are so very fortunate that they will get to
see rural Africa/Asia/Latin America, where they discover that most natives,
even the poorest, are disarmingly open and hospitable and dare it be
said, better people than you and I.
As the world modernises and globalisation keeps trucking on, to expect an entirely traditional
society anywhere would be like taking a trip to Dallas and expecting
to walk into a western movie!
The
sensible attitude to take is to accept how things have become, try
to understand it on its own terms and spend some time getting off
the beaten track a little. |
Toilets
In the developing world and Asia generally the majority of toilets are
of the squat genre. This is pretty much always the case where facilities
are geared for locals such as at bus stations or cheap hotels. This
is however not so much the case in slightly more expensive (still well
within budget travel pricing) hotels and restaurants as well
as in Africa and Latin America. Apart from a sometimes pungent smell,
you soon get use to the squat method and hey, at least you won't catch
anything off a loo seat.
Western toilets are still
fitted quite universally in main tourism countries (with Thailand as
a notable exception), but can often be blocked or broken, keeping you
up all night and being rather smelly. Both the sit down and
squat
variety often won't have a flush and for this purpose you'll notice
a bucket or drum of water and a cup for you to do this manually.
Supply of toilet paper varies per country. Girls -
always make sure you have a small supply with you. Remembering not to
throw your toilet paper in behind you takes a little getting use to.
The pipe systems are too narrow and will get clogged up; throw it into
the bin next to the toilet.
Ladies might also want to be conscious that on night
and other buses in China, Vietnam and Burma for example, buses just
pull over and expect you to get out and take a whiz in a field. No problem
for men: girls (the locals don't seem to have a problem with it) may
find wearing a long wrap-around skirt allows for more modesty.
Without a doubt you'll come across some truly very
smelly toilets and many a novelty. Enjoy!
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Buying Counterfeit Goods
A few words on buying pirated goods abroad. Many visitors overseas will want to bring a few cheap CDs
or DVDs home with them, but to save lugging them around, wish to purchase at
the last moment. Here are the best places. One of the best being Vietnam: the
south for books, especially guidebooks and the north for software and music CDs. Counterfeit
clothing is best in Bangkok, Kathmandu and Beijing, but not widely available.
In
most cases some selection of copied CD-ROMs and CDs are available in most less
developed major cities and all Asian ones. But, beware, software may not work correctly or have viruses (but
are generally fine) and music/MP3 CDs may not be what they claim to be (sometimes
you can always try before you buy). These discs are more likely to be
sold in established stores rather than off the street.
Newer releases
of copy movies DVDs or VCDs are more commonly available off the street in every major city of almost every city in the developing world and
are mainly bootleg quality (i.e. recorded by a camcorder in the
theatre).
Counterfeit
backpacks and other equipment/clothing useful to travellers available
in Saigon, Bangkok, Hong Kong, Beijing and Nepal will obviously not
be as strong or last as long as originals. |
The things you should not do - but might want to
know about anyway
In connection with several e-mailed questions and a desire
to provide real information in these pages that couldn't be found in guidebooks,
wanted to touch upon drugs and vice abroad - two things most independent travellers
come across.
With the exception of Holland, Rastafarian churches
and Coca Tea in South America, drugs are illegal worldwide and always carry
strict penalties. The thing is, many of the drugs mentioned are, or have
been part of a country's long standing culture and indeed grow wild in many
nations. Despite recent strict rules, you will in your travels virtually always
come across some form of drugs and considering that many drugs (not all) in
small quantities are no more harmful than a beer or a cigarette, will want to
try some at a bargain price. This is compounded by the fact that despite these
strict rules (normally the death penalty for traffickers or laws (such as in Indonesia) where if you know someone has drugs and you do not inform
the authorities, you are also liable for penalty), use is widespread, laws seem
to be disregarded and police often seem to turn a blind eye.
» Marijuana:
Commonly and generally safely (well easily at least) available in India
especially in Goa, mountain regions (e.g. Simla) and Pushkar. Also
in Nepal (you will see it growing wild on most treks), North Africa, especially
Morocco and Egypt (Dahab), Thailand's Islands, Indochina, México, Costa
Rica, Colombia, Brazil, Southern Africa (especially Malawi) and Australia
and NZ - to name a few. These are just the most concentrated areas where a scene has sprung
up, probably due to lack of police interest and a past or present hippy scene.
Many of these places are not what they once were. Both Dahab and
the Thai Islands have passed their heyday some years back. So has South East Asia,
where some might recall guesthouses leaving bowls of grass out for guests
to help themselves! You will come across marijuana in virtually every country
worldwide. (images1 - image2 - Marijuana
growing wild off the KKH, Northern Pakistan). Although not a big deal for many travellers, Marijuana can carry some strict penalties in some regions that far outweigh its potency.
» Amphetamines and other pills: Asian pharmacies have very
different regulations than in the west. Someone in the know once
supplied a huge list of items easily purchased such as
Prozac. Don't recall the list and not sure it's a road anyone should go down. The most common pharmacy
hits are the 'diet' pills available in Thailand, normally sold
by dealers at full moon parties (these now have a large police
presence) or passed off as Ecstasy. Realistically, it's not really a good idea to go
popping Thai pills you know nothing about that at best give you
a rushing around feeling and a few sleepless nights, since they
are just basic amphetamine.
It's uncommon to come across
amphetamines or meta-amphetamines in their pure form on a
traveller circuit. You'll only come across Ecstasy in developed
countries, where it is normally more expensive than in western
Europe.
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» Opium: Opium is easy to obtain and in fact legal for hill tribes
in the golden triangle. In most treks from Chang Mai, Thailand you'll
come across it. It is most widespread and easy to obtain in Laos. Remember
this is Opium not Heroin, which anyone with any sense would avoid.
Please also consider ethical issues, such as authorities trying
to stop hill farmers growing poppies and encourage them to take up other crops: here you are creating a demand.
» Hallucinogenic: LSD is a drug of yesteryear and it is unlikely you will come across
it, however you may be offered magic mushroom on Indonesian and
Thai Islands. Generally you will buy your mushrooms and have them
made into an omelette. You'll going to have limited knowledge on
how strong the effect will be and several people have died taking
these mushrooms, normally from going on long swims whilst tripping.
In South America there are plants and indeed frogs in the jungle
that give psychotropic effects. Substances likes 'daime' or 'ayahuasca' are not illegal in much of South America. Both are two names for the same hallucinogenic that are used in rituals. The effect is similar to magic mushrooms, or peyote, or even LSD.
Although technically 'safe', if you've had no previous hallucinogenic experiences or not in the right place/mind,
you could be considered a little silly to get into this scene abroad especially where illegal. For legal hallucinogenics there are many specific destinations for those who want to participate with support.
» Cocaine: It's not that common to come across Cocaine in less
developed countries on the travellers circuit, except in Colombia, Brazil and Jamaica.
Coca leaves and tea are widespread and legal in South America,
great for altitude sickness and long treks, but have no real
narcotic strength. Even in Colombia, Jamaica and Rio, charley is
not that easy to come across, with limited travellers using it
and a lot of corrupt policemen selling and busting. It's most
widespread on Colombia's Caribbean coast. Getting involved with
Cocaine in South America, especially Colombia is a risky
business.
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Vice: The Philippines and Thailand have somewhat of
a reputation for sex tourism. Take a walk through certain
areas of any big tourist town and it's easy to see why. However, in the Philippines and many other places
prostitution is illegal. In reality (of course) most will end up touching rather
than just looking. Go-Go bars are much the same as any strip club in the world
(although with more activity available in back private rooms or sofas). Pop into any of these
bars and what you will get is many gorgeous girls (many look and probably are
under 18) sometimes in swimsuits asking for you to buy them a drink (that's how they make
their money - or one of the ways). Girls will give you a lot of attention and
continue asking for more drinks. It's obvious that many guys leave with girls
(where a leaving fee or 'bar-fine' is normally paid) or head to back-rooms. The more popular the bar, the more 40plus Japanese/Australians/Americans
and the more aggressive the girls will be. Don't expect a cheap night out or
a clean conscience. Some KTV (karaoke) bars will operate in the same way, only will be more expensive. Massage parlors that offer a viewing gallery to pick your female massager or provide in hotel massages are likely to offer 'extra-services', but where they exist, it's easy to see what these places are about a mile off.
Whether you are aware of it or not , prostitution is rife in many parts of Asia, Russia, Europe and
Brazil/Central America, with Manila/Angeles, Rio and Bangkok/Pattaya the sex holiday destinations of choice.
Most backpackers in Bangkok for example take in a show in Pat Pong and have offers of prostitution at some stage
(normally from free-lancers hanging out in more up-market and hotel bars), that they shyly turn
away and that's it. And how it should be. Whereas narcotics were discussed in
detail, there's nothing more really to say about this subject, considering its
questionable ethics. It's not common, but you
should also consider, you may end up with a transgendered individual or if you take a girl back to your room, end up with a rape/under-age charge when
the police turn up the next morning with the crying (faking) girl. Equally, Aids/HIV is an issue in all the aforementioned places and so are
other STDs - remember condoms are not 100% foolproof.
Getting
involved with any of the above you cross a line where you are playing with
different rules and have no recourse to the law. Over that line, you are open
to lying, cheating and entrapment. When it comes to drugs, you may get ripped
off when buying, you maybe robbed under the effects or be sold drugs by a
dealer
who heads straight to the police for a tip. All are possible; if you do get
involved be very, very careful (no responsibility taken here),
take drugs in your room, not in public, buy from guesthouse/bar owners never
from the street, check out the scene, know what you are doing, don't carry contraband
on your person and never, never, never carry anything across international boundaries.
All common sense really. It is just backpackers get carried away since it is
so cheap, seems almost legal and they are on holiday to enjoy themselves. If you can't be good at least be careful.
Other tips - but not so good ones!
There are loads of other tips that are spread widely,
floating around guidebooks, the web and travellers conversations.
Listed right are a few typical examples, if only to
spell out that these sort of tips sound okay at home, if not making
you a little unnecessarily apprehensive, but when you get to your destination
of choice, are completely unnecessary, impractical and have you sticking
out like a sore thumb. |
Examples of this slightly paranoid stuff are:
- Carrying all your money under an elastic knee
or wrist support.
- Buying a woven potato or fertilizer bag at a local
market and putting your backpack in it when travelling to disguise it.
- Wearing a small whistle around your neck at all
times so that you can alarm others in case you're being attacked
and perhaps scare away the attacker.
- Taking a bottle of mace or stun gun with you for
protection - you could land yourself in serious trouble for this
one.
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If there is anything else you would
like details on, feel is omitted or would like to add yourself, then
please get in touch. |
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"I have not told the half of what I saw"
Marco Polo (on his deathbed)
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