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Some
things you might want to know about backpacking, budget
travel tips/advice and overall summaries for: Australia and
the Pacific -
Oz,
New Zealand,
French Polynesia, Fiji,
Vanuatu and Easter
Island.
What
follows are only basic snapshot summaries and breakdowns of
the factors important to budget independent travellers. Both
Australia and New Zealand have a lot to offer and in the case of
Australia, spread over a wide area, so of course it's impossible
for this page to be comprehensive.
Huge numbers of backpackers head this way on year outs and a
whole industry has sprung up around them, offering hostels,
working visas, car rentals, local guides, etc. So there's a lot
of detailed info available, particularly for Australia.
Unfortunately most is commercial in orientation, so don't get
suckered into all of this at home; just get a good guidebook and
head off - the rest is easy.
» It's worth
looking, if you have not already, at the
example layout to see the
guidelines each section of information is based on - or for
other travel advice and site home head for
wwww.travelindependent.info
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If
you're thinking that the destinations on this page are some of
the countries you want to visit and need more planning
information then you are strongly recommended to complement what
you find here with any of the
excellent guidebooks or activity guides for Oz and NZ. Trust
us it will make life much easier and fill in the grey areas.
If
you are set on going and need a guidebook or reading material
please see a list of recommended guides/books
here (go on, have a look!).
All guides/books can be viewed in more detail and click-through
purchased with Amazon in the UK, US or Canada. Plus shopping
through the site is a big thank you (if you have been helped
out). To see why click here.

Many thanks to
Stephen Totterman for contributing the Vanuatu summary and
for Katie Penman's Fiji summary.
For
more info on backpacking in Australia,
click here for an article submitted.
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Australia
and New Zealand
Get
your bearings.. show/hide map
of the region
» Australia
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Intro:
The world's biggest island, smallest continent and an icon for
round-the-world and far fetched travel. Somewhere perfectly
civilized, English spoken, a lot of beer drunk, the chance to earn
some money and miles from home with loads of places to see on the
way there and back. That's a few of the reasons why Australia is so
popular and currently so much in vogue. Nevertheless, three things
to remember about Australia before you reason that no further
consideration is necessary and you've found the ideal destination.
1) It is huge and the cost of getting around soon mounts up. For
example, even if you make it to Alice Springs its still the distance
from London to Edinburgh to get to Ayres Rock. 2) Tourism is a major
industry and although the established backpacker network makes
things easy, there are tight regulations and little or no room for
real adventure. 3) Finally, it is a developed country and living
dirt cheap like in the rest of Asia is simply not possible, more so
considering the myriad of things to see and do (and party culture),
meaning you often simply haemorrhage money.
-
Highlights: Sydney, Melbourne, Fraser Island, Nimbin,
the Gold Coast, the Great Ocean Road, neat animals and some
generally beautiful diverse scenery and weather
.
If you have the money, sailing in the Whitsunday Islands is
fantastic. Forget the various 'party boats' and plump for a
traditional vessel for the best experience - either way it's not
cheap, but almost paradise.
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Lowlights: The speed you spend money and long
distances. In many opinions the Great Barrier Reef is not too
different (for the average tourist) to reefs that can be seen in
Asia and Central America. Also note it is a long way off the
coast and in winter the trip can be rough.
-
Typical tourist trail: Cairns to Sydney. Side
trips down to Melbourne, Darwin to Alice or to Perth
-
Dangers: Spending too much money, never leaving
-
Hot/cold, wet and dry: Normally fairly hot
pleasant weather. Darwin can be unpleasant in the wet season
and Sydney/Melbourne and the far south can get colder than
you might expect in the winter months.
-
Costs: Coming from Asia you're going to find
Australia expensive on a day-to-day basis. However if making
a comparison with Europe prices are comparable or cheaper -
especially with an advantageous exchange rate. Nevertheless,
to summarise Australia is expensive and the Australian
Dollar is a strong currency. Sticking to major cities (as
backpackers do) and covering the country's vast distances
are going to bleed money, particularly if you want to live
it up to any degree. At least US$60/£35+ per day and that's
with cooking most of your own food. The country is well set
up for independent travellers, so with a student, YHA or
other backpackers' card you can find discounts on transport,
entertainment,
etc and with a highly competitive market you can find
some bargains. Just remember, getting around costs a lot of
money, so does drinking and giving in to all the great
things like parachute jumping (cheaper in NZ) that the
country has to offer. Incidentally (and probably
because it is a long distance trip and thus tourists stay
longer and spend more) according to statistics gathered by
the UN World Tourism Organisation, when you take total
visitor numbers (5.9million in 2010) and divided them by
total tourist receipts the amount spent in Australia
is the highest in the world at an average of over $5,000 per
person. Way ahead of everywhere else on the list and
[tellingly] 2.5times more than New Zealand. -
Ref.
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Guide book: Many available, all good. The Lonely
Planet: Australia is a good choice, but extremely popular.
The Rough Guide: Australia version is a great alternative
and recommended. It may not be as well geared to budget
travellers, but who cares when there is so much free
material available when in Oz on hostels, saving etc.
It is however, a really good read and not boring in the way
the Lonely Planet can be. For a full list of guides and
reading material
click here.
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Other reading: Recommended by readers are: Down
Under by Bill Bryson which has a fair bit of history and
general humour in it. (see details -
UK).
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People vibe:
-
Locals: Fine, some backpacker jaded souls in
places, mostly friendly
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Other travellers: A lot of backpackers from
all over the world, especially the UK. Many young first
time backpackers, coming after graduating from school
sometimes on 'Daddy's' money to work or seemingly just
to get drunk - normally both. Too many travellers to
pigeon hole
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Everyone requires a visa for Australia,
except New Zealanders. Usually it's an electronic visa
called an Electronic Travel Authority (ETA). If American you
need to head to Washington, Los Angeles or Ottawa - or you
can use embassy web sites. Nationals of Canada, Malaysia,
Singapore, Japan and most European countries (if staying for
less than three months) can get an ETA, valid for multiple
entry over one year. Applied for online, there is no visa
stamp in your passport (ETAs are computerised) and saves the
hassle of queuing or sending off your passport. ETAs can be
applied for on the web with a credit card for A$20 (see
www.eta.immi.gov.au) or from travel agents and airlines
(for an additional fee levied on top of the cost of the
ETA).
If you want to stay longer than 3 months,
you'll need to complete an application form and lodge it
either in person or by post with the embassy or consulate.
It'll cost A$105 (or the equivalent in your country) and
takes up to three weeks to process. If you think you might
stay more than three months, it's best to get the longer
visa before departure, because once you get to Australia
extensions cost A$160. Once issued, a visa usually allows
multiple entries, so long as your passport is valid.
Working Holiday Visa (WHV). If you want to
work to supplement the cost of your holiday through
short-term employment a WHV might be possible. However if
your want to travelling to Australia to work seriously a WHV
won't cut it. The WHV is for those aged 18 to 30 (at time of
application), who are interested in a working holiday of up
to 12 months in Australia. If your nationality allows it you
basically get a 12 month multiple entry visa with the right
to study for 4 months and/or work in Australia for up to 6
months (with each employer per visa). If you
search the internet
for information about the WHV Visa Subclass 417 (most nations) and 462
(Americans among other more exotic), you can find all the
details.
These 12-month working holiday visas are easily available to
British, Irish, Canadian, Belgium, French, German, Korean,
Japanese, Swedish and Norwegian and Dutch. However, remember
work is not always easy to find or guaranteed and a WHV
typically only opens the door to casual work (often hard
agricultural work which is seasonal) and is not a chance to
make a wonderful career - as mentioned you are meant to work
for no more than six months at any one job (per visa). You
must arrange the visa before you arrive in Australia, and
several months in advance.
Working visas cost A$230; some travel agents such as
Trailfinders can arrange them for you.
The all important condition for holiday-visa is that you
have adequate funds both to support yourself during your
stay – at least A$1000 a month – and eventually to get
yourself home again.
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(land): Many options. Backpacker
buses (see getting around in the
on the road
section) are popular. Perfect if you are in a hurry or on
your own, but better avoided if there are a few of you in a
group who could club together for more independent means
(such as car hire or Greyhound Buses (for which you can buy
a mileage pass)). Car hires is quite expensive, so buying a
car or, better, a campervan and splitting the cost between a
few is a cheaper option if you have the time.
There are quite a few re-locations available around the
country, if you keep an eye out. You will probably end up on
a tour at some point (in the Northern Territory) and will
probably have to take internal flights if doing more than
the east coast stretch.
Train travel is an other option and comfortable, but
slightly more restricting as trains don’t run as frequently
or operate to as many destinations as buses. There are
numerous good value rail passes and special 'backpacker'
fares.
(air): There are many companies offering internal
travel in Australia, the staples of whom are Virgin Blue (virginblue
com), Qantas and
its budget arm
Jetstar.
They operate on the same basis as low cost/no-frills
airlines in Europe, i.e. the sooner you book, the
cheaper the price. Both websites are user friendly, and you
can easily book your flights before leaving for Oz, simply
quoting your reservation number on arrival at your
Australian airport.
It's worth studying both airlines, because it is sometime
cheaper to take the outward journey with one airline and the
return journey with the other. Of the two, Virgin Blue is
more no-frills while Qantas provides a free meal and drinks.
Note that internal flights booked from outside Australia are
free from 10% GST (Australia's VAT).
There is much more information in the
budget airlines section
of the 'on the road' chapter.
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Tourist factor: 8/10 on the main circuit - it's no
coincidence that this is the second most viewed page on this
site!
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Money: ATMs and credit cards
-
Accommodation: There is a huge variety and range
of places to stay, and notably an excellent choice of
hostels with good social scenes in most towns: book ahead
for the best ones and for double rooms. Camping is widely
available at campsites (if you can get to them with your own
transport) or in some hostel gardens.
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Hot water: Developed country, never a problem
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Average cost: US$60-80 double room in Sydney
hostel, prices less outside big cities
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Communications: Cheap international calling cards
available, internet widespread. Local pay-as-you-go SIM
cards for your mobile phone.
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Food: Buy your own and cook it in hostels to keep
costs down
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Media:
-
Hassle and annoyance factor: None
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Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: Big drinking culture, smoking
an expensive and difficult pastime (smokers in Australia have been
squeezed out of bars and restaurants, as well as some beaches and
most other public places). Check out Nimbin in NSW and bigger cities
for the alternative scene.
» New Zealand
Miss at your
peril - 'Highlight of Independent Travel'
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Intro: It's a view maintained by many that New
Zealand beats the hell out of Australia as a backpacker
destination. Its smaller, cheaper, more compact, prettier
and just better. Few would disagree that for a developed
country it's cheap and one of the, if not the, most
beautiful places on earth. Picking up a car to buy or hire
is easy and the country hosts a perfect system of wonderful
hostels. Outdoor activities are cheaper than Australia and
there is a whole host of possibilities from oxygen-assisted
skydives to white-water rafting/surfing to the well known
bungee jump. You might feel a little like you are on a
tourist trail and the North Island is a little lacking in
some ways, but the scenery, especially in the fiordlands
makes up for it all.
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Highlights: The fiordland
,
volcanic activity, Wanaka, great hostels and the South
Island in general. NZ's amazing back country hut system
comes highly rated as does many short treks. General
awesome natural beauty, great facilites and compactness
.
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Lowlights: Queenstown, often full
accommodation, the west (wet) coast (although lowlight
might be a bit harsh and some
certainly disagree), some of the North Islands
cities and sand flies. Christchurch and Auckland are
just big cities, with little to distinguish them from
most western world cities. The general feedback on
backpacker buses is rarely good.
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Isolated,
still fifteen hundred kilometres on from Australia, New
Zealand is enjoying a tourist boom with a certain trilogy of
films putting its landscape very much on the map. Despite
this the country remains unfettered by the crowds you'd find
elsewhere.
More a holiday rather than a travel destination. Everything
is easily accessible, packed into a land area little larger
than the UK but with a population of under 4million, with
over half that in the three largest cities: Auckland, the
capital Wellington, and the South Island's Christchurch.
Elsewhere, you can travel miles through farmland from one
attraction to another and hardly see anyone. At major
tourist attractions okay, it's busy, but a far cry from
Europe or North America's equivalent. And the scenery: well
welcome to 'Godzone'.
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Visa strategy: Free on entry for three months for most
nationalities - onwards ticket sometimes requested. Australian
citizens can stay indefinitely. Many choose the one year Working
Holiday Visa (one time only, for those under 30) so they can legally
work while travelling.
-
Typical tourist trail: Too various to mention, generally a
loop around the North and South Islands
-
When to go: Dec-March is busy season, worth doing some
booking ahead. June-Aug (winter) is the off-season and
quieter/cheaper to travel in, though with worse weather.
-
Hot/cold, wet and dry: Typical four season climate, can
get hot at the top of the North Island. The weather is (on average)
rainy in the west and dry in the east. There is little variation
between seasons, temps are rarely higher than mid 20's or lower than
0. Average is about 10 during winter, 20 during summer. Best weather
is January - April.
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Costs: Good value, getting around can be expensive, as can
tours. Cook your own food to save money. US$40-50 per day, but with
so much to do, like shark diving (better in South Africa), dolphin
swimming, glacier climbing and extreme sports (which are poor
value), costs can run out of control. For a better idea of prices
see
http://www.backpack-newzealand.com/costs.html
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Money: ATMs and credit card
-
Getting around: Many travellers go for backpacker buses.
Hire or buy a car instead - you won't regret it. Generally
buses can be a little expensive (more than hiring a car if sharing
the cost). There are quite a few car and car sharing notices in
hostels, re-locations available around the country, if you keep an
eye out. Compared to many western countries, hitchhiking is easy,
but you'll need some experience in this means of travel to avoid
waiting too long - even the pro expect average wait times of about
an hour per ride. Rail is quite limited and expensive. Many choose
to cycle.
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Guide
book: Use the fantastic free hostel guides (BBH) for
accommodation if hostelling. Recommended is The Rough Guide:
New Zealand. The Lonely Planet: New Zealand is up to its
usual standard, but far too overused for the liking of many.
Again the Let's Go makes a good alternative. All these
guides can be bought with ease in New Zealand: the Rough
Guide is the cheapest to buy when in New Zealand. There are
a number of Lonely Planet specialist guides for
walking/trekking (see details -
UK or
USA) and cycling (see details -
UK or
USA) which are very good. For a full list of guidebooks
click here.
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Other reading:
Recommended are: The Bone People by Keri Hulme. Set in
remote New Zealand, this Booker-prize-winning novel tells
the story of the ties that bind three amazingly different
people. It is a rich reading experience, with characters so
real it is sometimes painful to read, and always totally
engrossing - (see details -
UK or
USA). Once Were Warriors by Alan Duff. Like The Bone
People, but this book is much rawer. It's not pretty, but if
you desire to learn about the Māori, this is for you. It is
a portrayal of Māori society, and a story in which everyone
is a victim until the strength and vision of one woman
transcends brutality and leads the way to a new life. -(see
details -
UK or
USA). For a full list of recommended reading
click here.
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People vibe:
-
Locals: Friendly and welcoming
-
Other travellers: Various, lots of Israelis and Dutch,
but most notably - Germans and English. NZ is backpacker
central. Many young 'kid' travellers
-
Tourist factor: 8/10 (NZ has become extremely popular in
recent years)
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Accommodation: Hostels, book ahead in peak seasons,
especially for double rooms
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Average cost: $24-$29NZD dorm, $55-$60NZD for a
double. Most expensive in Wellington and Queenstown. Campsites
are ~NZ$10 for unserviced and NZ$15-20 for serviced. A common
recommendation is that an enjoyable way to save money is the
Woofing
programme, where you get to meet locals, eat very well, save
money and learn loads of interesting stuff.
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Communications: Internet widespread, but not that cheap.
International calls with locally bought calling cards are very good
value.
-
Health: Watch out for sand fly bites, otherwise no need
for any special precautions
-
Media:
-
Books: Loads of bookshops
-
TV: Always in hostels and even cheap hotels. Like
watching in the UK. Casualty, Coronation Street and the like.
-
Food: Easy to cook own food in hostels. Eating out is not
too expensive... cheap takeaway - $8 NZD, main dish at a restaurant
- $14 NZD. Most restaurants allow BYO wine which is much cheaper.
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Hassle and annoyance factor: None
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Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: Beer and wine good value
and can now be bought in supermarkets throughout NZ. There is now no
smoking inside public buildings including bars, pubs and restaurants
but they usually accommodate smokers in special smoking rooms or
balconies etc. A lot of dope grown in the North Island and around
Motueka and Nelson so no worries about getting your mitts on some in
the South or North Island (it's still illegal though). Another
recent development in NZ is the advent of Party Pills, made from
BZP, which gives a similar high to ecstasy, but legally. Can be
bought from shops open all hours over the counter but you must be 18
or over and unfortunately will probably be made illegal by the time
you read this.

Get
your bearings..
show/hide map of the region
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Intro: Easter Island or Rapa Nui is the very definition of
remote. It's a tiny, expensive island that looking around will take
about three days, including time to get over the jet lag. The cost
of getting there (see below) can be prohibitive, but it is a hell of
a kick to come face to face with those heads and walk in such a
remote, enigmatic place.
-
Dangers:
Spending too long or getting stuck without a flight out
(reconfirm). The island can be very hot and dusty
-
Visa strategy: Free on entry, same requirements as
Chile
-
Typical tourist trail: A few days stop over
between Santiago and French Polynesia
-
Costs: Quite expensive (about US$35-$50 per day),
but cheap accommodation can be found and you can cook your
own food in some hotels/hostels. The major cost is getting
transport out to all the moai.
-
Money: The bank (just one) will give credit card
advances when open at a fee. No ATM, USD TCs change no
problem. If coming from Chile, bring a good supply of money.
-
What to buy: Some expensive, but very nice
carvings. Lots of mini-moai
-
People vibe:
-
Tourist factor: 4/10
-
Accommodation: The options as you step off the
plane are huge. From the nice hotels/guesthouses from about
US$30 to pitching your own tent and dorm beds. Pick wisely
and go with one of these owners for a look and free lift
into town
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Communications: Some Internet (you see, even the
world's most remote place has internet!)
-
Food: Restaurants are nice, but quite expensive.
Supermarkets have very limited stock for preparing your own
meals. Bring any food you can from the mainland
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Getting there: Currently the only way to get to
Easter Island without spending a small fortune from Chile,
is to take a LAN Chile flight from French Polynesia to
Santiago (or vice versa) and make sure you can get off the
plane during the stop-off. This was possible on a One World
round-the-world ticket, but regulations change frequently.
Getting around:
The only real way to see the island is to hire a jeep
(US$50-100) or take a tour (three times a week). A jeep,
split between a few people is the best option and you will
see all the sights in a day. Around the town, you can hire
bikes and walk (long) to a few sights including one of the
stunning volcanoes and ruins.
Guide book: There is no guidebook for Easter
Island alone. So you need to use the chapters in the Rough
Guide: Chile (see details/buy with Amazon -
UK or
USA) or Lonely Planet: Chile (see details/buy with
Amazon -
UK or
USA), which are both good. To be honest you just need
information on the history of the island. Some hostels have
nice books for loan. Also there are loads of abandoned South
America guidebooks here. The new Moon Handbook on Tahiti
(including the Cook Islands), has a fairly detailed section
on Easter Island and has been recommended.
Other reading: There are many books relating to
the history of the island and your guidebook is probably the
best place to start, but for a novel/biography set around
the island, Among Stone Giants: The Life of Katherine
Routledge and Her Remarkable Expedition to Easter Island by
Andrew Tathum (see details -
UK,
Canada or
USA) is highly recommended and very
informative/interesting.
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Comment: Easter island - incredible! Yes, you can see
the main sites in 3 days if you run but there is so much to see
and do on the island and you can easily spend more time there -
horse treks, surfing, scuba diving, trekking, dance shows, or
just plain chilling out on beautiful Anakena beach and hanging
out with the locals on the weekend. Flights are very often
delayed or you may be bumped off the flight, so if possible
allow extra time. Wherever you're going it's a very very long
way to get back here and it would be a real shame to end up
running around the island snapping away at the moai in 2.5 days
instead of budgeting for an extra day. The best guide
by far is "A companion to Easter Island by James Grant Peterkin" plenty
of detail and very easy to follow and it will even tell you how
to avoid the tour groups. Lonely Planet etc don't come anywhere
close. You can buy it in the stores on the island. - Thanks
Jason K
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Intro: Over 300 tropical islands» set in the South Pacific
are, in my humble opinion, a must for all who want to forget the
busy streets of Western lands and lose themselves in this surreal
land. A complete paradox to the US, UK and every other
work-orientated culture, Fijians know how to relax and enjoy their
surroundings: a way of life that they seem eager to share with those
who care to visit. Escape the mainland for a taste of true Fijian
culture, without the manufactured tribal dances and “grog”
ceremonies that so many resorts offer. Many of the islands offer
home stays which make it possible to be exposed to the true nature
of the Fijians, a wonderfully friendly and inquisitive people.
However, for you pamper-queens the Coral Coast of the main island
offers 5* hotels that you would expect the rich and famous to stay
in, at minimal prices.
-
Highlights: The outer islands. Although the Yasawa
to the north-west of the mainland are hugely popular, they
are also over-priced and over-rated, although offer perhaps
the best snorkelling and diving in this region. Best for 2/3
day trips only. Visit Ovalau, to the west, to experience an
island totally uncorrupted by tourism (I have pondered long
and hard as whether to reveal this, please don't spread the
word and risk the island's innocence by making it too well
known!) Just off the coast of Ovalau is Caqalai (pronounce
Thangalai) an island on which time stops and there is
nothing to do but lie and relax, snorkel, or explore its 5
minute's walk diameter! Visit Nananu-I-Ra to the north for
sheer beauty and tranquillity and excellent diving.
|
-
Lowlights:
Suva, the capital, is very run down and notorious for crime
(I myself was mugged, not very pleasant). However, worth
visiting are the market and the Botanical Gardens. Once a
colonial beauty spot, unfortunately Suva is now not what
Fiji is all about and I would advise to spend a minimal
amount of time there. Pacific Harbour on the Coral Coast is
also to be avoided as it caters solely for ignorant tourists
wanting a nice restaurant and some souveniours – over-priced
and far too western to be the real Fiji.
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-
Visa strategy: A 3-month tourist visa will cost around
US$50
-
Typical tourist trail: The mainland followed by visiting
the Yasawas or Bounty/Beachcomber islands – all of which are very
touristy and I would advice that you avoid these, unless of course
that this is your thing.
-
Hot/cold, wet and dry: Hottest Dec-Apr which is also the
rainy season – expect tropical storms. The best time to go is
October when the weather is hot but not unbearable. Like most
places, it can get chilly at night.
-
Costs: Pretty cheap – meals for $10 max. However be wary
of the tourist rate which is often double what the locals pay and
avoid shops around resorts as they tend to up the price two-fold!
-
Money: ATMs available at the larger resorts on the
mainland but at very few backpackers' hostels. There are ATMs in the
main towns but bear in mind there are only 7 main towns on the
mainland, and much less on the other islands. Traveller's cheques
are easily exchangeable but take these into foreign exchange units,
as banks tend to charge.
-
What to take: A camera to capture the beautiful scenery.
Sturdy shoes if you intend on exploring the easily accessible
rainforests or highlands. Mossie repellent, and lots of it!!!
-
What to buy: Clothes are fairly cheap here but fashionable
items are few and far between. Buy some local handicraft as these
help the local communities and the wooden tribal masks look great on
your walls!
-
Getting around: The best way to get around are either the
buses (make sure you get on an express bus or the journey will take
hours and will stop every 5 minutes) or minivans – you stand by the
side of the road and hitch yet this is very safe (don't get into
cars, only minivans), cheap and readily available - ask for the rate
before you get in. Be warned that you will be exposed to either the
delights of Fijian music (DokiDoki) blasting on the stereo,
or perhaps worse, Shania Twain!
-
Guide book: Lonely Planet is good, although be aware that
the prices of things listed in it are highly likely to change! Moon
handbook is a good alternative and in some ways better.
|
Fiji has retained many of its customs
and sensibilities, and you should respect these everywhere,
especially in rural areas. Exposing shoulders, knees,
cleavage and midriffs is frowned upon and deeply
disrespectful if in a village. Other customs to be aware of
in villages are those regarding the village chief: you must
stoop your shoulders when you pass if you are taller than
him and you must not wear head garments or hats in his
presence. Do not refuse the offer of
yaqona. After one bilo (coconut shell) full of
grog you are able to refuse any more but the more you drink
the more you will be respected. If you wish to just have a
little then use the phrase “low-tide”.
You must not on any occasion enter a village without first
seeing the chief – if you are unsure wait at the edge of the
village for a villager to come to you and guide you. A gift
(sevusevu) for the chief is essential when you
enter the village (normally a gift of yaqona is the
best bet!) Touching the head of a Fijian or facing the soles
of your feet towards the chief are forbidden at all times.
The chief is highly respected; treat him as you would the
queen! The beauty of Fiji is the culture, which is still
very important to them. Please respect this and you will be
immediately welcomed into the community.
|

Many thanks to Katie Penman for supplying this summary.
Katie spent 5 months voluntary teaching in a secondary
school in Fiji.
Do note
that information here is from this author and not the site
author. The views and facts expressed here are well-research
and good quality, but just bear in mind they should perhaps
not be compared directly to other country summaries by other
authors.
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Accommodation: There are many hostels for backpackers,
with hugely varying standards. Often the more simple the
accommodation, the better! If possible try to stay in a bure – a
traditional Fijian thatched building. For the most part, don't
expect bargain prices.
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People vibe:
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Locals: Some of the friendliest people you will every
meet, very interested in your life, and easily pleased. However
be aware of local customs – you will offend the locals if you do
not adhere to some of the most important customs, as listed in
Customs section above.
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Other travellers: Normally Ozzie, American, English or
Norwegian. Many travel here on their own or as a stop-over on a
RTW trip.
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Communications: Internet is available at resorts but is
much cheaper in Internet cafes in the main towns.
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Food: Mainly root crops, which are bland in taste and high
in carbs, local curries (the Indo-Fijians make excellent rotis). The
fruit here is much tastier than what is imported into our country so
make the most of the mangoes, pawpaw (papaya) and the local soursap!
Western food is readily available for those feeling less
adventurous.
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Hassle and annoyance factor: Fijians are very inquisitive
so don't be offended by personal questions. In Suva and Nadi you may
be hassled by sword sellers - just tell them that you are not
interested and walk away.
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Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: All available. You may be
offered dope regularly but it is strictly against the law here and
should be avoided! Be wary of the local spirit – Bounty Rum which is
very strong!!(54%) The local drink is a ceremonial drink named kava
(also grog, yaqona) This is a narcotic and should only be drunk in
small amounts. See Customs above.
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Intro: You may feel like you are in a picture
postcard or shipwreck movie, but the cost of living is
higher here than almost anywhere else in the world so you
really have to limit your time or catch a flight onto Easter
Island (for which French Poly is a main launching point).
Expect French through and through including the attitude,
food, standards and prices. Escape Tahiti and head for the
nearby island of Moorea, cook for yourself and it's doable
price -wise. Head for some of the more evocative sounding
islands or outer islands and you might wonder why you
bothered, especially compared to other pacific nations which
offer so much more at half the price.
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Visa strategy: Free on arrival, if you don't need a visa
for France you don't need one for French Polynesia
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Typical tourist trail: Moorea; you can go to a few further
islands if you have time
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Dangers: Buying anything or spending a night in Tahiti.
Sunburn or cutting yourself on coral is a serious danger
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Hot/cold, wet and dry: Very hot, expect downpours (the
mountains of Tahiti are the wettest place on earth)
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Getting around: La Truck to the dock, ferry (try and get a
student discount if you have a card) and bicycles for hire
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Guide book: You don't need one just to get from the
airport to Moorea. Look at one before you go and make a few notes or
photocopies. If you are travelling far and wide then the Lonely
Planet is the best of a bad bunch. For a full list of guidebooks
click here.
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Communications: Expensive internet and phone calls
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What to take: High factor waterproof sun-block. A tent if
you are set on the cheapest accommodation
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Money: ATMs, these can often be empty (including the one
at the airport), take a little USD/Euros. If using ATMs a Visa Plus
card or Visa credit card is the way to go; don't rely on the Cirrus
network.
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Costs: US$30 per day, less if you stay still and don't
travel and eat out of supermarkets or fast food.
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People vibe:
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Locals: French characteristics prevail with
some quite stroppy unfriendly locals.
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Other travellers: Few backpackers, loads of
honeymooners
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Tourist factor: 8/10
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Accommodation: There is one expensive-ish place
(European prices) opposite the airport (see right) and a few
in town, but its best to sleep at the airport the night you
arrive (arrivals are normally in the middle of the night).
Nearby there are two camping places in Moorea with some
fixed huts if you don't have a tent or sleeping bag. These
are fairly reasonably priced. See text on right for how to
get there. You can find similar places on other islands, but
check the guidebook and make a reservation before you head
out since budget choices are very limited and if you can't
find a bed you'll be forced into a resort at great expense.
Beware camping sites can get booked up during public
holidays.
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Food: Cook your own, everything is expensive,
bring basic foods to cook with you if coming from New
Zealand
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Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: You might treat
yourself to a beer and that's it
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This
is the only information you need - As you walk out of the
airport, cross a big car park to the main road. This takes
you to the side of the road furthest from the airport. To
your right and 150m along is a commercial laundry. Up the
street to its side is as cheap as room you will find in
Tahiti (around US$30 dorm bed). Or on the road you will see
a bus stop, which is in fact for Le Truck. You want to be on
the side of the road that takes you left (with your back to
the airport).
Don't get off Le Truck until you see
big boats. Pay when you get off - prices are posted and
there is no danger of getting ripped-off. You will soon find
a ferry to Moorea; the first one goes at about 0630 (about 5
a day).
At Moorea (short crossing) you will see
an old clapped-out school bus as you step off. The driver
will signal to you, and will know where you are going from
your backpack. Its about 30mins to Moorea Camping (there is
one other option 100m before this). This ride can be
hitched, but took me four hours.
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Intro: Vanuatu is a southwest Pacific island
nation. It's close to Fiji and Australia (which are on the
main round-the-world air routes) but has not been discovered
by the backpacking crowd which for some is enough reason to
go. Vanuatu's a relatively expensive place to travel but its
unique and unspoilt. The outer islands are rather
undeveloped, very Melanesian and very beautiful. Escape to a
place without telephones, internet, electricity, TV,
vehicles, pollution and noise.
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Highlights: The outer islands - under-visited
and uncorrupted by tourism. No one island is 'best' -
they're all enjoyable and all a little bit different. On
the outer islands you can find the best beaches, coral
reefs, waterfalls, lakes, mountains and forests. Some
are great for bush walking and hiking. Unfortunately,
there are no diving facilities away from Santo and Vila
so you have to BYO gear or just snorkel. Culture is
another big thing in Vanuatu. The locals enjoy custom
ceremonies and performances and some are major annual
events. There are still a few villages where people live
traditionally.
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Lowlights: Relaxing on a quiet island and
having a cruise ship full of Aussies turn up. You would
have to be unlucky but be aware of the cruise ship
schedules. Port Vila on Efate, the national capital and
main port of entry, is not a bad town but it's too busy
these days - leave it for the mass tourists. Luganville
the second biggest town on Santo is a dull place and
it's sad to see travellers hanging around here. Get out
of town and do something!
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Visa strategy: Most visitors can get a one month
visa upon arrival and these can be extended. One month
should be enough for travellers with limited money to spend.
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Costs: You can travel the islands for about US$20
to US$30 a day. The budget destroyer is internal airfares
which you'll have to add on top of your daily expenses. For
example, it costs about US$230 for a return ticket from Port
Vila to Tanna. It's best to travel for longer to reduce the
overall cost per day. Loop fares allow you to island hop for
little more cost than a return ticket to the furthest
destination on your loop. Ships are generally unreliable, of
poor standard and have little to recommend.
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Money: Cash, cash, cash. There are ATMs in Port
Vila (Efate) and Luganville (Santo) only. Some islands have
National Bank of Vanuatu branches or agents where you may be
able to cash traveller's cheques.
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Tourist factor: Depends on where you are -
about 8/10 in Port Vila and 0/10 on some of the more remote
islands.
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Getting around: In town, minibuses are the
cheapest option. The buses have a red 'B' on the
number-plate. Just flag one down, climb aboard and tell the
driver where you want to go. You can find them at the
airport in Port Vila (Efate) - they pass by the domestic
terminal. Luganville (Santo) has more taxis than buses and a
short ride in a taxi here is as cheap as a bus.On the outer
islands people ride in the back of trucks ('transports').
Santo, Malekula and Tanna are the only islands with regular
shared public transport. Charters are expensive if you are
only one and it's cheaper to wait for a ride although you
might only find transport in the mornings (into town) and
afternoons (return). If the distance is not far then walking
can be an enjoyable and independent mode of travel.
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Guide book: Not much choice here. Most people go
with Lonely Planet although it's rather main stream, infact
it's pretty useless, aimed far more at honeymooners than
independent travellers. The Moon handbook is probably a
better option if you really feel you need something.
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Accommodation: Very few backpacker places in the
towns (Port Vila and Luganville). A room in a modern
motel/guesthouse in town costs about US$15 for one and
upwards of US$20 for a double.
On the outer islands there a couple of pricey resorts on
Tanna and Santo. Generally you would head for the local
bungalows and guesthouses. Many of the best bungalows are
family businesses which offer a friendly and informal
atmosphere in an idyllic setting. Local bungalows are often
simple with thatch roofs and bamboo walls, capacity (number
of beds) may be limited and facilities can be primitive (pit
toilets and bucket showers).
Rural bungalows and guesthouses cost US$20 per person on
average and usually this includes meals. There's a wide
range in price, value for money and standards. Keep in mind
most rural Ni-Vanuatu people are not business-minded (which
is most often a good thing) and are not too experienced in
looking after tourists (so don't be shy to ask and suggest).
Camping is not really an option in Vanuatu.
Stephen Totterman who has spent several months travelling
the islands for a travel website on the outer islands:
http://www.positiveearth.org/bungalows/
Equally many thanks to
Mark
Rogers-Lee for his information on diving the USS
President Coolidge.
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Hot/cold, wet and dry: Hottest Dec-Mar which is
also the season for tropical cyclones. The cooler months are
June to September. A warm top is handy in the south and at
higher altitudes. Rain and getting wet is not usually a
concern in the warm tropical climate.
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What to take: There are practically no tourist
facilities on the islands so bring your own. Sandals or
thongs are the best footwear for everyday use. Walking shoes
are needed in the bush and on the volcanoes. Sunglasses, a
hat and sunscreen are essential.
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Communications: Expensive. There are internet
cafes in Port Vila (Efate) and one in Luganville (Santo).
The TVL prepaid telephone cards are handy and most islands
have telephones (that may not be working).
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Language: Bislama, a form of pidgin English, is
the lingua franca. When you visit the outer islands Bislama
is the default language and speaking Bislama opens doors.
The two other main languages are French and English.
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People vibe:
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Media: Virtually non-existent on the outer
islands. Bring your own books to read and bring a SW radio
if you must keep up-to-date with what's happening in the
rest of the world.
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Food: Fresh is best so go for local food (‘aelan
kaekae'). White rice is almost a staple food, especially in
the urban centres. Ask to try some local food or you may be
served rice by default. Fruit and vegetables are cheap in
the town markets. Port Vila (Efate) has good restaurants if
you have the money. Guesthouses in town and more than a few
island guesthouses have self-catering facilities.
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Vegetarians: Not much choice away from town but
there should be plenty of fresh fruit.
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Hassle and annoyance factor: None.
Nearly all Ni-Vanuatu people are Christian and
conservative by western standards - think 19th century. The
Ni-Vanuatu also hold their 'kastom' and land very tightly -
ask first to avoid offence. Go slow when first arriving in a
village community until you learn who's who and what's OK or
not OK. Vanuatu is not the place to rush although allowances
are often made for tourists.
The
USS President Coolidge is a world famous wreck. Located
only 100 metres from the shore off Espirito Santo people
often arrive to spend a week diving on it. A luxury liner
requistioned for US navy use in the second world war, it
struck one the US' own mines and sank just short of the
shore with the loss of only two lives. It has memorabilia
from both its lives from mushroom lamps and chandeliers in
the 1st class dining room to medical supplies, gas mask,
jeeps and guns. It is a vast wreck, lying on a slope with
the top of the bow at around 20 metres and the stern sitting
in close to 70 metres. The diving is generally deep, albeit
superb. A statue called "The Lady" of a lady and a unicorn
is one of the classic dives and lies at 38 metres, a short
swim into the wreck. The other relatively famous shallow
dive (30 metres approx) is a night dive inside the holds
without torches to look at the eery flashlight fish blinking
like a starry sky in the pitch black. The dives generally
require mandatory decompression stops and a decompression
station with safety tanks, spare weight and safety bar and a
beautiful man-made coral garden has been constructed in the
shallows. This might lull one into a fall sense of security
but it is important to take care to dive within your limits
(if not qualifications) and not be rushed into diving beyond
your capabilities. Many of the dives require significant
dangerous wreck penetration, most require long decompression
stops for which you should have been trained and some of the
dives are extremely deep. All the diving is done on air and
for serious diving injuries help is a long way away. The
local guides often take inexperienced divers with less than
ten dives well beyond their capabilities and you should
really know what you are doing if planning to dive past 30
metres here.
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Women alone: Traditional Vanuatu society is male dominated
and there's very little mixing of the sexes in rural Vanuatu. It's
recommended that solo women associate with other women when on the
islands. Hanging around with boys may broadcast the wrong message.
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Health: Medical facilities are very basic on the outer
islands. Don't get seriously injured or sick.
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Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: Alcohol is available at
only a few places on the islands and you may need to BYO. Cigarettes
are widely available. Kava is the cheapest and most popular
intoxicating drink. Traditionally kava drinking is a men's pastime
and you will rarely see women drinking kava outside of the urban
centres. Often it's customary for a visitor to a rural village to
join the locals for a few shells of kava and some conversation in
the evenings. Kava hangovers can be cured by sweating it out.
There's no drug scene to speak of, although marijuana is becoming
popular in the towns.
Remember, this is only a take (an overview if you will); very
few get the chance to see every inch of every country or have the
time to get everyone's opinion (you are welcome and encouraged to
mail in yours).
"When you exit this vehicle, please be sure to
lower your head and watch your step. If you fail to do so, please
lower your voice and watch your language. Thank you."
