Some things you might want to know about backpacking, budget travel tips/advice and overall summaries for: Australia and the Pacific - Oz, New Zealand, French Polynesia, Fiji, Vanuatu and Easter Island.

What follows are only basic snapshot summaries and breakdowns of the factors important to budget independent travellers. Both Australia and New Zealand have a lot to offer and in the case of Australia, spread over a wide area, so of course it's impossible for this page to be comprehensive.

Huge numbers of backpackers head this way on year outs and a whole industry has sprung up around them, offering hostels, working visas, car rentals, local guides, etc. So there's a lot of detailed info available, particularly for Australia. Unfortunately most is commercial in orientation, so don't get suckered into all of this at home; just get a good guidebook and head off - the rest is easy.

ť It's worth looking, if you have not already, at the example layout to see the guidelines each section of information is based on - or for other travel advice and site home head for wwww.travelindependent.info

If you're thinking that the destinations on this page are some of the countries you want to visit and need more planning information then you are strongly recommended to complement what you find here with any of the excellent guidebooks or activity guides for Oz and NZ. Trust us it will make life much easier and fill in the grey areas.

If you are set on going and need a guidebook or reading material please see a list of recommended guides/books here (go on, have a look!). All guides/books can be viewed in more detail and click-through purchased with Amazon in the UK, US or Canada. Plus shopping through the site is a big thank you (if you have been helped out). To see why click here.

Many thanks to Stephen Totterman for contributing the Vanuatu summary and for Katie Penman's Fiji summary.

For more info on backpacking in Australia, click here for an article submitted.

Australia and New Zealand

ť Australia

Intro: The world's biggest island, smallest continent and an icon for round-the-world and far fetched travel. Somewhere perfectly civilized, English spoken, a lot of beer drunk, the chance to earn some money and miles from home with loads of places to see on the way there and back. That's a few of the reasons why Australia is so popular and currently so much in vogue. Nevertheless, three things to remember about Australia before you reason that no further consideration is necessary and you've found the ideal destination. 1) It is huge and the cost of getting around soon mounts up. For example, even if you make it to Alice Springs its still the distance from London to Edinburgh to get to Ayres Rock. 2) Tourism is a major industry and although the established backpacker network makes things easy, there are tight regulations and little or no room for real adventure. 3) Finally, it is a developed country and living dirt cheap like in the rest of Asia is simply not possible, more so considering the myriad of things to see and do (and party culture), meaning you often simply haemorrhage money.
- Highlights: Sydney, Melbourne, Fraser Island, Nimbin, the Gold Coast, the Great Ocean Road, neat animals and some generally beautiful diverse scenery and weather. If you have the money, sailing in the Whitsunday Islands is fantastic. Forget the various 'party boats' and plump for a traditional vessel for the best experience - either way it's not cheap, but almost paradise.
- Lowlights: The speed you spend money and long distances. In many opinions the Great Barrier Reef is not too different (for the average tourist) to reefs that can be seen in Asia and Central America. Also note it is a long way off the coast and in winter the trip can be rough.

Typical tourist trail: Cairns to Sydney. Side trips down to Melbourne, Darwin to Alice or to Perth
Dangers: Spending too much money, never leaving
Hot/cold, wet and dry: Normally fairly hot pleasant weather. Darwin can be unpleasant in the wet season and Sydney/Melbourne and the far south can get colder than you might expect in the winter months.
Costs: Coming from Asia you're going to find Australia expensive on a day-to-day basis. However if making a comparison with Europe or America, prices are comparable or cheaper - especially with an advantageous exchange rate. Nevertheless, to summarise Australia is expensive. Sticking to major cities (as backpackers do) and covering the country's vast distances are going to bleed money, particularly if you want to live it up to any degree. At least US$50/Ł25+ per day and that's with cooking most of your own food. The country is well set up for independent travellers, so with a student, YHA or other backpackers' card you can find discounts on transport, entertainment, etc and with a highly competitive market you can find some bargains. Just remember, getting around costs a lot of money, so does drinking and giving in to all the great things like parachute jumping (cheaper in NZ) that the country has to offer.
Working: Many travellers go with the ambition of working in order to 'fund the rest of their travels'. How much and what work you get will depend on the state of the economy at the time, which in recent years has not been too strong. Fruit picking work is typical. It is hard work and pays about enough to live on. Think realistically about working in Australia if you have limited time and are unskilled. The golden years are gone. Much, much more information can be found on the internet regarding work visas etc., so for that reason this area is left fairly blank.
Money: ATMs and credit cards
Guide book: Many available, all good. The Lonely Planet: Australia is a good choice, but extremely popular. The Rough Guide: Australia version is a great alternative and recommended. It may not be as well geared to budget travellers, but who cares when there is so much free material available when in Oz on hostels, saving etc. It is however, a really good read and not boring in the way the Lonely Planet can be. For a full list of guides and reading material click here.
Other reading: Recommended by readers are: Down Under by Bill Bryson which has a fair bit of history and general humour in it. (see details - UK).
People vibe:
- Locals: Fine, some backpacker jaded souls in places, mostly friendly
- Other travellers: A lot of backpackers from all over the world, especially the UK. Many young first time backpackers, coming after graduating from school sometimes on 'Daddy's' money to work or seemingly just to get drunk - normally both. Too many travellers to pigeon hole
Tourist factor: 8/10 on the main circuit - it's no coincidence that this is the second most viewed page on this site!
Accommodation: There is a huge variety and range of places to stay, and notably an excellent choice of hostels with good social scenes in most towns: book ahead for the best ones and for double rooms. Camping is widely available at campsites (if you can get to them with your own transport) or in some hostel gardens.
- Hot water: Developed country, never a problem
- Average cost: US$30 double room in Sydney hostel, prices less outside big cities
Communications: Cheap international calling cards available, internet widespread. Local pay-as-you-go SIM cards for your mobile phone.
Food: Buy your own and cook it in hostels to keep costs down
Media: For photos click here
- Books: many good book shops
- TV: In all hostels

Visa strategy:

Everyone requires a visa for Australia, except New Zealanders. Usually it's an electronic visa called an Electronic Travel Authority (ETA). If American you need to head to Washington, Los Angeles or Ottawa - or you can use embassy web sites. Nationals of Canada, Malaysia, Singapore, Japan and most European countries (if staying for less than three months) can get an ETA, valid for multiple entry over one year. Applied for online, there is no visa stamp in your passport (ETAs are computerised) and saves the hassle of queuing or sending off your passport. ETAs can be applied for on the web with a credit card for A$20 (see www.eta.immi.gov.au) or from travel agents and airlines (for an additional fee levied on top of the cost of the ETA). If you want to stay longer than 3 months, you'll need to complete an application form and lodge it either in person or by post with the embassy or consulate. It'll cost A$65 (or the equivalent in your country) and takes up to three weeks to process. If you think you might stay more than three months, it's best to get the longer visa before departure, because once you get to Australia extensions cost A$160. Once issued, a visa usually allows multiple entries, so long as your passport is valid.

Different restrictions apply if you want to work - search the internet for information about the WHM Visa Subclass 417, which allows certain young people to work and holiday in Australia.

These 12-month working holiday visas are easily available to British, Irish, Canadian, Dutch, German, Japanese and Korean single people aged 1830. However, remember this will open the door to casual work (often hard agricultural work which is seasonal) and is not a chance to make a wonderful career - you are meant to work for no more than three months at any one job. You must arrange the visa before you arrive in Australia, and several months in advance. Working visas cost A$160; some travel agents such as Trailfinders can arrange them for you.

The all important condition for holiday-visa is that you have adequate funds both to support yourself during your stay at least A$1000 a month and eventually to get yourself home again.

Getting around:

(land): Many options. Backpacker buses (see getting around in the on the road section) are popular. Perfect if you are in a hurry or on your own, but better avoided if there are a few of you in a group who could club together for more independent means (such as car hire or Greyhound Buses (for which you can buy a mileage pass)). Car hires is quite expensive, so buying a car or, better, a campervan and splitting the cost between a few is a cheaper option if you have the time.

There are quite a few re-locations available around the country, if you keep an eye out. You will probably end up on a tour at some point (in the Northern Territory) and will probably have to take internal flights if doing more than the east coast stretch.

Train travel is an other option and comfortable, but slightly more restricting as trains dont run as frequently or operate to as many destinations as buses. There are numberous good value rail passes and special 'backpacker' fares.

(air): There are many companies offering internal travel in Australia, the staples of whom are Virgin Blue (virginblue com), Qantas and its budget arm Jetstar. They operate on the same basis as low cost/no-frills airlines in Europe, i.e. the sooner you book, the cheaper the price. Both websites are user friendly, and you can easily book your flights before leaving for Oz, simply quoting your reservation number on arrival at your Australian airport.

It's worth studying both airlines, because it is sometime cheaper to take the outward journey with one airline and the return journey with the other. Of the two, Virgin Blue is more no-frills while Qantas provides a free meal and drinks. Note that internal flights booked from outside Australia are free from 10% GST (Australia's VAT).

There is much more information in the budget airlines section of the 'on the road' chapter.

Hassle and annoyance factor: None
- Women alone: Fine
Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: Big drinking culture, smoking an expensive and difficult pastime (smokers in Australia have been squeezed out of bars and restaurants, as well as some beaches and most other public places). Check out Nimbin in NSW and bigger cities for the alternative scene.

Rating: 7/10

ť New Zealand

Miss at your peril - 'Highlight of Independent Travel'

Intro: It's a view maintained by many that New Zealand beats the hell out of Australia as a backpacker destination. Its smaller, cheaper, more compact, prettier and just better. Few would disagree that for a developed country it's cheap and one of the, if not the, most beautiful places on earth. Picking up a car to buy or hire is easy and the country hosts a perfect system of wonderful hostels. Outdoor activities are cheaper than Australia and there is a whole host of possibilities from oxygen-assisted skydives to white-water rafting/surfing to the well known bungee jump. You might feel a little like you are on a tourist trail and the North Island is a little lacking in some ways, but the scenery, especially in the fiordlands makes up for it all.
- Highlights: The fiordland , volcanic activity, Wanaka, great hostels and the South Island in general. NZ's amazing back country hut system comes highly rated as does many short treks. General awesome natural beauty, great facilites and compactness .
- Lowlights: Queenstown, often full accommodation, the west (wet) coast (although lowlight might be a bit harsh and some certainly disagree), some of the North Islands cities and sand flies. Christchurch and Auckland are just big cities, with little to distinguish them from most western world cities. The general feedback on backpacker buses is rarely good.

Isolated, still fifteen hundred kilometres on from Australia, New Zealand is enjoying a tourist boom with a certain trilogy of films putting its landscape very much on the map. Despite this the country remains unfettered by the crowds you'd find elsewhere.

More a hoilday rather than a travel destination. Everything is easily accessible, packed into a land area little larger than the UK but with a population of under 4million, with over half that in the three largest cities: Auckland, the capital Wellington, and the South Island's Christchurch. Elsewhere, you can travel miles through farmland from one attraction to another and hardly see anyone. At major tourist attractions okay, it's busy, but a far cry from Europe or North America's equivalent. And the scenery: well welcome to 'Godzone'.

Visa strategy: Free on entry for three months for most nationalities - onwards ticket sometimes requested. Australian citizens can stay indefinitely. Many choose the one year Working Holiday Visa (one time only, for those under 30) so they can legally work while travelling.
Typical tourist trail: Too various to mention, generally a loop around the North and South Islands
When to go: Dec-March is busy season, worth doing some booking ahead. June-Aug (winter) is the off-season and quieter/cheaper to travel in, though with worse weather.
Hot/cold, wet and dry: Typical four season climate, can get hot at the top of the North Island. The weather is (on average) rainy in the west and dry in the east. There is little variation between seasons, temps are rarely higher than mid 20's or lower than 0. Average is about 10 during winter, 20 during summer. Best weather is January - April.
Costs: Good value, getting around can be expensive, as can tours. Cook your own food to save money. US$40-50 per day, but with so much to do, like shark diving (better in South Africa), dolphin swimming, glacier climbing and extreme sports (which are poor vaule), costs can run out of control. For a better idea of prices see http://www.backpack-newzealand.com/costs.html
Money: ATMs and credit card
Getting around: Many travellers go for backpacker buses. Hire or buy a car instead - you won't regret it. Hitchhiking is easy, but generally buses can be expensive (more than hiring a car if sharing the cost). There are quite a few car and car sharing notices in hostels, re-locations available around the country, if you keep an eye out. Rail is quite limited and expensive. Many choose to cycle.

Guide book: Use the fantastic free hostel guides (BBH) for accommodation if hostelling. Recommended is The Rough Guide: New Zealand. The Lonely Planet: New Zealand is up to its usual standard, but far too overused for the liking of many. Again the Let's Go makes a good alternative. All these guides can be bought with ease in New Zealand: the Rough Guide is the cheapest to buy when in New Zealand. There are a number of Lonely Planet specialist guides for walking/trekking (see details - UK or USA) and cycling (see details - UK or USA) which are very good. For a full list of guidebooks click here.

Other reading: Recommended are: The Bone People by Keri Hulme. Set in remote New Zealand, this Booker-prize-winning novel tells the story of the ties that bind three amazingly different people. It is a rich reading experience, with characters so real it is sometimes painful to read, and always totally engrossing - (see details - UK or USA). Once Were Warriors by Alan Duff. Like The Bone People, but this book is much rawer. It's not pretty, but if you want to learn truly about the Maoris, this is for you. It is a portrayal of Maoris society, and a story in which everyone is a victim until the strength and vision of one woman transcends brutality and leads the way to a new life. -(see details - UK or USA). For a full list of recommended reading click here.

People vibe:
- Locals: Friendly and welcoming
- Other travellers: Various, lots of Israelis and Dutch, but most notably - Germans and English. NZ is backpacker central. Many young 'kid' travellers
Tourist factor: 8/10 (NZ has become extremly popular in recent years)
Accommodation: Hostels, book ahead in peak seasons, especially for double rooms
- Average cost: $18-$25NZD dorm, $45-$60NZD for a double. Most expensive in Wellington and Queenstown. A common recommendation is that an enjoyable way to save money is the Woofing programme, where you get to meet locals, eat very well, save money and learn loads of interesting stuff.
Communications: Internet widespread, but not that cheap. International calls with locally brought calling cards are very good value.
Health: Watch out for sand fly bites, otherwise no need for any special precautions
Media: For photos click here
- Books: Loads of bookshops
- TV: Always in hostels and even cheap hotels. Like watching in the UK. Casualty, Coronation Street and the like.
Food: Easy to cook own food in hostels. Eating out is not too expensive... cheap takeaway - $8 NZD, main dish at a restaurant - $14 NZD. Most restaurants allow BYO wine which is much cheaper.
- Vegetarians: Never a problem
Hassle and annoyance factor: None
- Women alone: None (hitchhiking alone might not be the best idea)
Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: Beer and wine good value and can now be bought in supermarkets throughout NZ. There is now no smoking inside public buildings including bars, pubs and restaurants but they usually accommodate smokers in special smoking rooms or balconies etc. A lot of dope grown in the North Island and around Motueka and Nelson so no worries about getting your mitts on some in the South or North Island (it's still illegal though). Another recent development in NZ is the advent of Party Pills, made from BZP, which gives a similar high to ecstasy, but legally. Can be bought from shops open all hours over the counter but you must be 18 or over and unfortunately will probably be made illegal by the time you read this.

Rating: 8.5/10

Pacific Islands

ť Easter Island

Intro: Easter Island or Rapa Nui is the very definition of remote. It's a tiny, expensive island that looking around will take about three days, including time to get over the jet lag. The cost of getting there (see below) can be prohibitive, but it is a hell of a kick to come face to face with those heads and walk in such a remote, enigmatic place.
- Highlights: Volcanoes and you know what
- Lowlights: Prices and getting there

Dangers: Spending too long or getting stuck without a flight out (reconfirm). The island can be very hot and dusty
Visa strategy: Free on entry, same requirements as Chile
Typical tourist trail: A few days stop over between Santiago and French Polynesia
Costs: Quite expensive (about US$35-$50 per day), but cheap accommodation can be found and you can cook your own food in some hotels/hostels. The major cost is getting transport out to all the moai.
Money: The bank (just one) will give credit card advances when open at a fee. No ATM, USD TCs change no problem. If coming from Chile, bring a good supply of money.
What to buy: Some expensive, but very nice carvings. Lots of mini-moai

People vibe: For photos click here
- Locals: Fine (not many of them)
- Other travellers: Fine (not many of them)
Tourist factor: 4/10
Accommodation: The options as you step off the plane are huge. From the nice hotels/guesthouses from about US$30 to pitching your own tent and dorm beds. Pick wisely and go with one of these owners for a look and free lift into town
Communications: Some Internet (you see, even the world's most remote place has internet!)
Food: Restaurants are nice, but quite expensive. Supermarkets have very limited stock for preparing your own meals. Bring any food you can from the mainland
- Vegetarians: Fine

Getting there and around:

Getting there: Currently the only way to get to Easter Island without spending a small fortune from Chile, is to take a LAN Chile flight from French Polynesia to Santiago (or vice versa) and make sure you can get off the plane during the stop-off. This was possible on a One World round-the-world ticket, but regulations change frequently.

Getting around: The only real way to see the island is to hire a jeep (US$50-100) or take a tour (three times a week). A jeep, split between a few people is the best option and you will see all the sights in a day. Around the town, you can hire bikes and walk (long) to a few sights including one of the stunning volcanoes and ruins.

Guide & Other Reading

Guide book: There is no guidebook for Easter Island alone. So you need to use the chapters in the Rough Guide: Chile (see details/buy with Amazon - UK or USA) or Lonely Planet: Chile (see details/buy with Amazon - UK or USA), which are both good. To be honest you just need information on the history of the island. Some hostels have nice books for loan. Also there are loads of abandoned South America guidebooks here. The new Moon Handbook on Tahiti (including the Cook Islands), has a fairly detailed section on Easter Island and has been recommended.

Other reading: There are many books relating to the history of the island and your guidebook is probably the best place to start, but for a novel/biography set around the island, Among Stone Giants: The Life of Katherine Routledge and Her Remarkable Expedition to Easter Island by Andrew Tathum (see details - UK, Canada or USA) is highly recommended and very informative/interesting.

Rating: Although you only need three/four days at maximum, with not much to see, those heads and the island are compelling - 8/10

ť Fiji

Intro: Over 300 tropical islands set in the South Pacific are, in my humble opinion, a must for all who want to forget the busy streets of Western lands and lose themselves in this surreal land. A complete paradox to the US, UK and every other work-orientated culture, Fijians know how to relax and enjoy their surroundings: a way of life that they seem eager to share with those who care to visit. Escape the mainland for a taste of true Fijian culture, without the manufactured tribal dances and grog ceremonies that so many resorts offer. Many of the islands offer home stays which make it possible to be exposed to the true nature of the Fijians, a wonderfully friendly and inquisitive people. However, for you pamper-queens the Coral Coast of the main island offers 5* hotels that you would expect the rich and famous to stay in, at minimal prices.

Highlights: The outer islands. Although the Yasawa to the north-west of the mainland are hugely popular, they are also over-priced and over-rated, although offer perhaps the best snorkelling and diving in this region. Best for 2/3 day trips only. Visit Ovalau, to the west, to experience an island totally uncorrupted by tourism (I have pondered long and hard as whether to reveal this, please don't spread the word and risk the island's innocence by making it too well known!) Just off the coast of Ovalau is Caqalai (pronounce Thangalai) an island on which time stops and there is nothing to do but lie and relax, snorkel, or explore its 5 minute's walk diameter! Visit Nananu-I-Ra to the north for sheer beauty and tranquillity and excellent diving.

Lowlights: Suva, the capital, is very run down and notorious for crime (I myself was mugged, not very pleasant). However, worth visiting are the market and the Botanical Gardens. Once a colonial beauty spot, unfortunately Suva is now not what Fiji is all about and I would advise to spend a minimal amount of time there. Pacific Harbour on the Coral Coast is also to be avoided as it caters solely for ignorant tourists wanting a nice restaurant and some souveniours over-priced and far too western to be the real Fiji.

Visa strategy: A 3-month tourist visa will cost around US$50
Typical tourist trail: The mainland followed by visiting the Yasawas or Bounty/Beachcomber islands all of which are very touristy and I would advice that you avoid these, unless of course that this is your thing.
Hot/cold, wet and dry: Hottest Dec-Apr which is also the rainy season expect tropical storms. The best time to go is October when the weather is hot but not unbearable. Like most places, it can get chilly at night.
Costs: Pretty cheap meals for $10 max. However be wary of the tourist rate which is often double what the locals pay and avoid shops around resorts as they tend to up the price two-fold!
Money: ATMs available at the larger resorts on the mainland but at very few backpackers' hostels. There are ATMs in the main towns but bear in mind there are only 7 main towns on the mainland, and much less on the other islands. Traveller's cheques are easily exchangeable but take these into foreign exchange units, as banks tend to charge.
What to take: A camera to capture the beautiful scenery. Sturdy shoes if you intend on exploring the easily accessible rainforests or highlands. Mossie repellent, and lots of it!!!
What to buy: Clothes are fairly cheap here but fashionable items are few and far between. Buy some local handicraft as these help the local communities and the wooden tribal masks look great on your walls!
Getting around: The best way to get around are either the buses (make sure you get on an express bus or the journey will take hours and will stop every 5 minutes) or minivans you stand by the side of the road and hitch yet this is very safe (don't get into cars, only minivans), cheap and readily available - ask for the rate before you get in. Be warned that you will be exposed to either the delights of Fijian music (DokiDoki) blasting on the stereo, or perhaps worse, Shania Twain!
Guide book: Lonely Planet is good, although be aware that the prices of things listed in it are highly likely to change! Moon handbook is a good alternative and in some ways better.

Customs:

Fiji has retained many of its customs and sensibilities, and you should respect these everywhere, especially in rural areas. Exposing shoulders, knees, cleavage and midriffs is frowned upon and deeply disrespectful if in a village. Other customs to be aware of in villages are those regarding the village chief: you must stoop your shoulders when you pass if you are taller than him and you must not wear head garments or hats in his presence. Do not refuse the offer of yaqona. After one bilo (coconut shell) full of grog you are able to refuse any more but the more you drink the more you will be respected. If you wish to just have a little then use the phrase low-tide.

You must not on any occasion enter a village without first seeing the chief if you are unsure wait at the edge of the village for a villager to come to you and guide you. A gift (sevusevu) for the chief is essential when you enter the village (normally a gift of yaqona is the best bet!) Touching the head of a Fijian or facing the soles of your feet towards the chief are forbidden at all times. The chief is highly respected; treat him as you would the queen! The beauty of Fiji is the culture, which is still very important to them. Please respect this and you will be immediately welcomed into the community.

Many thanks to Katie Penman for supplying this summary. Katie spent 5 months voluntary teaching in a secondary school in Fiji.

Do note that information here is from this author and not the site author. The views and facts expressed here are well-research and good quality, but just bear in mind they should perhaps not be compared directly to other country summaries by other authors.

Accommodation: There are many hostels for backpackers, with hugely varying standards. Often the more simple the accommodation, the better! If possible try to stay in a bure a traditional Fijian thatched building. For the most part, don't expect bargain prices.
- Hot water: Can be a problem
- Average cost: $50

People vibe:
- Locals: Some of the friendliest people you will every meet, very interested in your life, and easily pleased. However be aware of local customs you will offend the locals if you do not adhere to some of the most important customs, as listed in Customs section above.
- Other travellers: Normally Ozzie, American, English or Norwegian. Many travel here on their own or as a stop-over on a RTW trip.
Communications: Internet is available at resorts but is much cheaper in Internet cafes in the main towns.
Food: Mainly root crops, which are bland in taste and high in carbs, local curries (the Indo-Fijians make excellent rotis). The fruit here is much tastier than what is imported into our country so make the most of the mangoes, pawpaw (papaya) and the local soursap! Western food is readily available for those feeling less adventurous.
- Vegetarians: May be limited to what they can eat locally but in resorts and towns plenty of vege options are available.
Hassle and annoyance factor: Fijians are very inquisitive so don't be offended by personal questions. In Suva and Nadi you may be hassled by sword sellers - just tell them that you are not interested and walk away.
- Women alone: Okay in rural areas but stay in pairs after dark. Suva and Nadi are probably the only places in Fiji where it is not advisable to venture out after dark alone.
Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: All available. You may be offered dope regularly but it is strictly against the law here and should be avoided! Be wary of the local spirit Bounty Rum which is very strong!!(54%) The local drink is a ceremonial drink named kava (also grog, yaqona) This is a narcotic and should only be drunk in small amounts. See Customs above.

Rating: 7/10

ť French Polynesia

Intro: You may feel like you are in a picture postcard or shipwreck movie, but the cost of living is higher here than almost anywhere else in the world so you really have to limit your time or catch a flight onto Easter Island (for which French Poly is a main launching point). Expect French through and through including the attitude, food, standards and prices. Escape Tahiti and head for the nearby island of Moorea, cook for yourself and it's doable price -wise. Head for some of the more evocative sounding islands or outer islands and you might wonder why you bothered, especially compared to other pacific nations which offer so much more at half the price.

Highlights: What can you afford?
Lowlights: The costs and some locals

Visa strategy: Free on arrival, if you don't need a visa for France you don't need one for French Polynesia
Typical tourist trail: Moorea; you can go to a few further islands if you have time
Dangers: Buying anything or spending a night in Tahiti. Sunburn or cutting yourself on coral is a serious danger
Hot/cold, wet and dry: Very hot, expect downpours (the mountains of Tahiti are the wettest place on earth)
Getting around: La Truck to the dock, ferry (try and get a student discount if you have a card) and bicycles for hire
Guide book: You don't need one just to get from the airport to Moorea. Look at one before you go and make a few notes or photocopies. If you are travelling far and wide then the Lonely Planet is the best of a bad bunch. For a full list of guidebooks click here.
Communications: Expensive internet and phone calls
What to take: High factor waterproof sun-block. A tent if you are set on the cheapest accommodation
Money: ATMs, these can often be empty (including the one at the airport), take a little USD/Euros. If using ATMs a Visa Plus card or Visa credit card is the way to go; don't rely on the Cirrus network.
Costs: US$30 per day, less if you stay still and don't travel and eat out of supermarkets or fast food.

People vibe:
- Locals: French characteristics prevail with some quite stroppy unfriendly locals.
- Other travellers: Few backpackers, loads of honeymooners
Tourist factor: 8/10
Accommodation: There is one expensive-ish place (European prices) opposite the airport (see right) and a few in town, but its best to sleep at the airport the night you arrive (arrivals are normally in the middle of the night). Nearby there are two camping places in Moorea with some fixed huts if you don't have a tent or sleeping bag. These are fairly reasonably priced. See text on right for how to get there. You can find similar places on other islands, but check the guidebook and make a reservation before you head out since budget choices are very limited and if you can't find a bed you'll be forced into a resort at great expense. Beware camping sites can get booked up during public holidays.
- Average cost: About US$10 a tent
Food: Cook your own, everything is expensive, bring basic foods to cook with you if coming from New Zealand
Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: You might treat yourself to a beer and that's it

Where to stay & getting to Moorea without a guidebook:

Map of section of French Poly This is the only information you need - As you walk out of the airport, cross a big car park to the main road. This takes you to the side of the road furthest from the airport. To your right and 150m along is a commercial laundry. Up the street to its side is as cheap as room you will find in Tahiti (around US$30 dorm bed). Or on the road you will see a bus stop, which is in fact for Le Truck. You want to be on the side of the road that takes you left (with your back to the airport).

Don't get off Le Truck until you see big boats. Pay when you get off - prices are posted and there is no danger of getting ripped-off. You will soon find a ferry to Moorea; the first one goes at about 0630 (about 5 a day).

At Moorea (short crossing) you will see an old clapped-out school bus as you step off. The driver will signal to you, and will know where you are going from your backpack. Its about 30mins to Moorea Camping (there is one other option 100m before this). This ride can be hitched, but took me four hours.

Rating: 6/10 if only for a quick taste of paradise and a serious tan

ť Vanuatu

Intro: Vanuatu is a southwest Pacific island nation. It's close to Fiji and Australia (which are on the main round-the-world air routes) but has not been discovered by the backpacking crowd which for some is enough reason to go. Vanuatu's a relatively expensive place to travel but its unique and unspoilt. The outer islands are rather undeveloped, very Melanesian and very beautiful. Escape to a place without telephones, internet, electricity, TV, vehicles, pollution and noise.

Highlights: The outer islands - under-visited and uncorrupted by tourism. No one island is 'best' - they're all enjoyable and all a little bit different. On the outer islands you can find the best beaches, coral reefs, waterfalls, lakes, mountains and forests. Some are great for bush walking and hiking. Unfortunately, there are no diving facilities away from Santo and Vila so you have to BYO gear or just snorkel. Culture is another big thing in Vanuatu. The locals enjoy custom ceremonies and performances and some are major annual events. There are still a few villages where people live traditionally.

Lowlights: Relaxing on a quiet island and having a cruise ship full of Aussies turn up. You would have to be unlucky but be aware of the cruise ship schedules. Port Vila on Efate, the national capital and main port of entry, is not a bad town but it's too busy these days - leave it for the mass tourists. Luganville the second biggest town on Santo is a dull place and it's sad to see travellers hanging around here. Get out of town and do something!

Visa strategy: Most visitors can get a one month visa upon arrival and these can be extended. One month should be enough for travellers with limited money to spend.
Costs: You can travel the islands for about US$20 to US$30 a day. The budget destroyer is internal airfares which you'll have to add on top of your daily expenses. For example, it costs about US$230 for a return ticket from Port Vila to Tanna. It's best to travel for longer to reduce the overall cost per day. Loop fares allow you to island hop for little more cost than a return ticket to the furthest destination on your loop. Ships are generally unreliable, of poor standard and have little to recommend.
Money: Cash, cash, cash. There are ATMs in Port Vila (Efate) and Luganville (Santo) only. Some islands have National Bank of Vanuatu branches or agents where you may be able to cash traveller's cheques.
Tourist factor: Depends on where you are - about 8/10 in Port Vila and 0/10 on some of the more remote islands.
Getting around: In town, minibuses are the cheapest option. The buses have a red 'B' on the number-plate. Just flag one down, climb aboard and tell the driver where you want to go. You can find them at the airport in Port Vila (Efate) - they pass by the domestic terminal. Luganville (Santo) has more taxis than buses and a short ride in a taxi here is as cheap as a bus.On the outer islands people ride in the back of trucks ('transports'). Santo, Malekula and Tanna are the only islands with regular shared public transport. Charters are expensive if you are only one and it's cheaper to wait for a ride although you might only find transport in the mornings (into town) and afternoons (return). If the distance is not far then walking can be an enjoyable and independent mode of travel.
Guide book: Not much choice here. Most people go with Lonely Planet although it's rather main stream, infact it's pretty useless, aimed far more at honeymooners than independent travellers. The Moon handbook is probably a better option if you really feel you need something.
Accommodation: Very few backpacker places in the towns (Port Vila and Luganville). A room in a modern motel/guesthouse in town costs about US$15 for one and upwards of US$20 for a double.

On the outer islands there a couple of pricey resorts on Tanna and Santo. Generally you would head for the local bungalows and guesthouses. Many of the best bungalows are family businesses which offer a friendly and informal atmosphere in an idyllic setting. Local bungalows are often simple with thatch roofs and bamboo walls, capacity (number of beds) may be limited and facilities can be primitive (pit toilets and bucket showers).

Rural bungalows and guesthouses cost US$20 per person on average and usually this includes meals. There's a wide range in price, value for money and standards. Keep in mind most rural Ni-Vanuatu people are not business-minded (which is most often a good thing) and are not too experienced in looking after tourists (so don't be shy to ask and suggest). Camping is not really an option in Vanuatu.

Contributions:

Stephen Totterman who has spent several months travelling the islands for a travel website on the outer islands: http://www.positiveearth.org/bungalows/

Equally many thanks to Mark Rogers-Lee for his information on diving the USS President Coolidge.

Hot/cold, wet and dry: Hottest Dec-Mar which is also the season for tropical cyclones. The cooler months are June to September. A warm top is handy in the south and at higher altitudes. Rain and getting wet is not usually a concern in the warm tropical climate.
What to take: There are practically no tourist facilities on the islands so bring your own. Sandals or thongs are the best footwear for everyday use. Walking shoes are needed in the bush and on the volcanoes. Sunglasses, a hat and sunscreen are essential.
Communications: Expensive. There are internet cafes in Port Vila (Efate) and one in Luganville (Santo). The TVL prepaid telephone cards are handy and most islands have telephones (that may not be working).
Language: Bislama, a form of pidgin English, is the lingua franca. When you visit the outer islands Bislama is the default language and speaking Bislama opens doors. The two other main languages are French and English.
People vibe:
- Locals: The villagers are very friendly and genuine. It's a novelty and sometimes a great honour to have a white person visiting a remote village.
- Other travellers: Very few.

Media: Virtually non-existent on the outer islands. Bring your own books to read and bring a SW radio if you must keep up-to-date with what's happening in the rest of the world.
Food: Fresh is best so go for local food (aelan kaekae'). White rice is almost a staple food, especially in the urban centres. Ask to try some local food or you may be served rice by default. Fruit and vegetables are cheap in the town markets. Port Vila (Efate) has good restaurants if you have the money. Guesthouses in town and more than a few island guesthouses have self-catering facilities.
Vegetarians: Not much choice away from town but there should be plenty of fresh fruit.
Hassle and annoyance factor: None.

Customs:

Nearly all Ni-Vanuatu people are Christian and conservative by western standards - think 19th century. The Ni-Vanuatu also hold their 'kastom' and land very tightly - ask first to avoid offence. Go slow when first arriving in a village community until you learn who's who and what's OK or not OK. Vanuatu is not the place to rush although allowances are often made for tourists.

Diving the USS President Coolidge

The USS President Coolidge is a world famous wreck. Located only 100 metres from the shore off Espirito Santo people often arrive to spend a week diving on it. A luxury liner requistioned for US navy use in the second world war, it struck one the US' own mines and sank just short of the shore with the loss of only two lives. It has memorabilia from both its lives from mushroom lamps and chandeliers in the 1st class dining room to medical supplies, gas mask, jeeps and guns. It is a vast wreck, lying on a slope with the top of the bow at around 20 metres and the stern sitting in close to 70 metres. The diving is generally deep, albeit superb. A statue called "The Lady" of a lady and a unicorn is one of the classic dives and lies at 38 metres, a short swim into the wreck. The other relatively famous shallow dive (30 metres approx) is a night dive inside the holds without torches to look at the eery flashlight fish blinking like a starry sky in the pitch black. The dives generally require mandatory decompression stops and a decompression station with safety tanks, spare weight and safety bar and a beautiful man-made coral garden has been constructed in the shallows. This might lull one into a fall sense of security but it is important to take care to dive within your limits (if not qualifications) and not be rushed into diving beyond your capabilities. Many of the dives require significant dangerous wreck penetration, most require long decompression stops for which you should have been trained and some of the dives are extremely deep. All the diving is done on air and for serious diving injuries help is a long way away. The local guides often take inexperienced divers with less than ten dives well beyond their capabilities and you should really know what you are doing if planning to dive past 30 metres here.

Women alone: Traditional Vanuatu society is male dominated and there's very little mixing of the sexes in rural Vanuatu. It's recommended that solo women associate with other women when on the islands. Hanging around with boys may broadcast the wrong message.
Health: Medical facilities are very basic on the outer islands. Don't get seriously injured or sick.
Drugs, cigarettes and alcohol: Alcohol is available at only a few places on the islands and you may need to BYO. Cigarettes are widely available. Kava is the cheapest and most popular intoxicating drink. Traditionally kava drinking is a men's pastime and you will rarely see women drinking kava outside of the urban centres. Often it's customary for a visitor to a rural village to join the locals for a few shells of kava and some conversation in the evenings. Kava hangovers can be cured by sweating it out. There's no drug scene to speak of, although marijuana is becoming popular in the towns.

Rating: 7/10

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